American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

419 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Washington, Southeast Max Peak, Devil's Club to Top of East Face
Southeast Mox Peak, Devil's Club to top of east face. The east face of Southeast Mox Peak (a.k.a. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, Silver Star Mountain, Central Couloir to Near West Summit
Silver Star Mountain, Central Couloir to near West Summit. Anne Keller and I had both noticed a classic-looking alpine couloir ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, The Washington Pass Traverse
The Washington Pass Traverse. At the end of day two, August 25, Mark Allen and I had just completed three-fourths of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, Northern Pickets Traverse
Northern Pickets Traverse. No matter how content with success a climber gets atop the heights, the compulsion to gaze from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, Johannesburg Mountain, The CK Route
Johannesburg Mountain, The CK Route. On August 27, we climbed a new direct line on the 4,600' north face. In 2002 we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Mt. Index, Murphy's Law
Mt. Index, Murphy’s Law. Stuart Taylor and I went in to check out the west face of the North ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Oregon, Various Activity
Oregon, various activity. On Mt. Hood’s Illumination Rock, on April 24 Mike Layton and Marcus Donaldson climbed a route that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Free Ascent of the Nose and Monster Linkup
Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, free ascent of the Nose and monster linkup. On October 30-31, in a 23-hour and 23-minute ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Mama, Flying in the Mountains, Homeworld
Yosemite Valley, Mama, Flying in the Mountains, Homeworld. On January 9 I experienced the most crushing and empowering day of my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Ballon Dome, Into the Pit and Netherworld; "Cat Wall," Heaven and Hell
Balloon Dome, Into the Pit and Netherworld; “Cat Wall,” Heaven and Hell. For the longest time I’ve wanted to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Angel Wings, Right Wing
Angel Wings, Right Wing. Chris LaBounty and I made the first ascent of the Right Wing (IV 5.10d) on Angel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Palisade Traverse in a Day
Palisade Traverse in a day. Gravity takes hold of my legs, and I stumble. My lungs still bursting, I see ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Sierra and Yosemite, Various Activity
Sierra and Yosemite, various activity. Climbing.com reported that Dave Turner soloed a new route, Block Party (VI 5.9 A4), on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Idaho, Sacajewea Peak, Broken Wings to the North Peak
Sacajewea Peak, Broken Wings to the North Ridge. In mid-May, Aaron Mordicai, Abe Dickerson, and I traveled up the remote ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Idaho, Goat Perch, Great Gully
Goat Perch, Great Gully. On June 4 Dusty Perkins and I made an ascent of the Great Gully (IV 5.8 M3) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, various activity. Eric Bjørnstad reports that three previously unclimbed towers saw ascents in the fall: Tchaikovsky Overture (425...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Various Routes
San Rafael Swell, various routes. On January 30 Lance Bateman and I climbed a new route on the Eastern Reef of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Perfect Day for Bananafish and Occam's Razor
Perfect Day for Bananafish and Occam's Razor. In Kolob Canyons, on the south side of the finger canyon immediately south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Various Free Ascents
Various free ascents. I will look back on 2005 as the year I became obsessed with Zion free climbing. It started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah
Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah. In April, Chris Rowins, Dave Jones, and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, "Gatekeeper Wall," Locksmith Dihedral
“Gatekeeper Wall ” Locksmith Dihedral. Dave Jones, Chris Rowins, and I established the Locksmith Dihedral (IV 5.11d Cl) on the “Gatekeeper ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, New Mexico, Shield, The Promise Land
Shield, The Promise Land. On Oct 3, 2004, Carolyn Parker and I completed the first ascent of our big-wall project, The Promise ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Atlantis
Atlantis. Several years ago Kent Wheeler identified an unclimbed buttress below and around the corner from his route Lost Cities. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Various Activity
Black Canyon, various activity. In late April Chip Chace and I linked the opening pitches of the Dylan Wall (IV+ 5.12...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Warbonnet Peak, the Neu Low
Warbonnet Peak, The Neu Low. Climbing in the Alps is Alpinism; climbing in the Andes is Andinism, climbing in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Ambush Peak, Dike Route
Ambush Peak, Dike Route. Ambush Peak’s main face rises from a low angle apron, becoming steeper at mid-height, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Philip Smith Mountains, First Ascents and Exploration
Philip Smith Mountains, first ascents and exploration. I have explored a number of routes off the Accomplishment Lake pass, just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Balchen, The Handicapped Route
Moria, Thunder Ridge; other ascents. On May 28 Ilona Barash and I flew into Betties, with the Arrigetch under a heavy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
New York Section
Mt. Balchen, The Handicapped Ramp. The granitic massif of Mt. Balchen (Peak 11,140') sits at the head of the east ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. This season was not only another warm one, but also a record year for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. McKinley, Infinity Direct to Upper West Rib
Mt. McKinley, Infinity Direct to Upper West Rib. Valeriy Babanov and I landed at Kahiltna International on May 23, with ambitious ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. Hunter, Diamond Arête, Second Ascent
Mt. Hunter, Diamond Arête, second ascent. When Freddie Wilkinson asked what I thought about trying for the second ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Peak 11,520', The Flame
Peak 11,520', The Flame. After a brief reconnaissance up the Northwest Fork of the Tokositna and a week of bad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. Huntington, The Imperfect Apparition to Upper Harvard Route
Mt. Huntington, The Imperfect Apparition to upper Harvard Route. Twenty-six years ago I skied past the looming north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. Huntington, Shi-Shi, and Mt. McKinley, Denali Diamond, Third Ascent
Mt. Huntington, Shi-Shi, and Mt. McKinley, Denali Diamond, third ascent. In April and May, Fumitaka Ichimura and I spent a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Idiot Peak, the Mini-Intellectual, and Peak 11,520', Repeat to Summit Cornice
Chris Thomas and I climbed the sub-peak immediately south of Mt. Huntington's South Ridge route on May 9. Beginning from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Thunder Mountain , New Route Attempt, and Other Ascents
Thunder Mountain, new route attempt, and other ascents. Over about three weeks in May, Ken Glover and I climbed a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Spice Factory, and Other Ascents
Mt. Bradley, Spice Factory, and other ascents. Quebec climbers Louis-Philippe Ménard and Maxime Turgeon established a remarkable new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Pt. 6400', Dream of Eggs, and Other Activity
Moose's Tooth, The Tooth Obsession to summit ridge. It was our fourth spring on the Root Canal Glacier. After climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
New York Section
Pt. 6,400', Dream of Eggs, and other activity. In June, Dave Hoven, Joel Irby, and I flew to the Ruth ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, "The Turret," Broken Down Palace
“The Turret,” Broken Down Palace. In early March, Scott Adamson and I headed into the Ruth Gorge for nine days ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Grosvenor, South Face, and Once Were Warriors
Mt. Grosvenor, South Face, and Once Were Warriors. Eamonn Walsh (Canmore, Alberta) and I spent two weeks in the Great ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, Voice of Unreason to Summit Ridge, and Whiteout Spire, Front Butt
Kichatna Spire, Voice of Unreason to summit ridge, and Whiteout Spire, Front Butt. After we festered for five days in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, Black Crystal Arête
Kichatna Spire, Black Crystal Arête. Chad Kellogg and I completed a new route (to the summit) on Kichatna Spire (8,985...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Other Ascents
Denali National Park, other ascents. The following information supplements the individual reports above. Ian Welsted and Chris Brazeau started up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Marcus Baker, Sanctuary Ridge
Mt. Marcus Baker, Sanctuary Ridge. After abandoning our original objective, the northwest ridge of Mt. Marcus Baker (13,176'), because of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Pt. 6000' of Mt. Yukla, The History of Things to Come, and the Positive Side to Negative Thinking
Pt. 6,000' of Mt. Yukla, The History of Things to Come, and The Positive Side of Negative Thinking. After many ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Wrangell Mountains, Peaks 10,320' and 9,110', Possible First Ascents
Peaks 10,320' and 9,110', possible first ascents. On May 14 Cory Hinds, James Dietzmann, and I drove from Anchorage to Chitina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Saint Elias Mountains
Note: Climbs of Mts. Alverstone and Cook, border peaks between Alaska and the Yukon (Canada), are covered in the Canada ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Coast Mountains, Mt. Boullard, Foster-Ricci
Mt. Boullard, Foster-Ricci. Mt. Boullard, a relatively benign-looking peak bordering both the Juneau Ice Field and the terminus of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006