American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

419 Records

Title Publication Year
PreFace
Strung-out deep in the remote mountains of northern Pakistan in early September, Vince Anderson and Steve House heard drumming. They ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2006
Delightful Execration
Delightful Execration An alpine-style new route up Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face. Vince Anderson Wake up! We were at 7,500 meters ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Cerro Torre's North Face
Thirteen long years have passed since I first tried to climb Cerro Torre from the north, with Guido Bonvicini and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Chomo Lonzo
Chomo Lonzo A French national expedition pioneers two 7,000~meter-plus peaks in Tibet. Yannick Graziani For the first time in my ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Chomo Lonzo North
Chomo Lonzo North Alpine style on a difficult new route to a Tibetan summit. Patrice Glairon-Rappaz I am lying in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
The Line of Life
The Line of Life Chasing dreams on the alpine~style first ascent of Broad Peak's southwest face. Denis Urubko The ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
The Khumbu Express
The Khumbu Express Two Himalayan solos in 12 days, on Cholatse and Tawoche, Nepal Ueli Steck I have recently climbed a ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
The Wall: Two climbers on the north face of Khan Tengri
Preface The world has gone crazy for records of all kinds. For that reason I want to say right away ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Kajaqiao
Kajaqiao “Technical wading” to an unclimbed summit in Eastern Tibet. Mick Fowler Chris Watts and I peered out the window ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Up and Down Great Trango Tower
Up and Down Great Trango Tower Going light on a stormy new route and harrowing descent in Pakistan. Gabo CmÁ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Spice Factory
Spice Factory An Alaskan debut ends with a major new route on Mt. Bradley. Maxime Turgeon Everyone spices differently. Some ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
The Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier
Set in the heart of the central Alaska Range, the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier is a massive geographic ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Some Kind of Monster
Adjacent to Mt. Logan in the Yukon’s remote St. Elias Range, Mt. McArthur is to Logan as Mt. Hunter ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Coming of Age
As the gales of November whipped and thrashed my fragile nylon tether, I felt like a lone sailor out at ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Gone with the Wind
Gone with the Wind A three~year struggle to climb the north pillar of Cerro Murallón, Patagonia. Stefan Glowacz ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
A Letter Home
A Letter Home The first free ascent of Linea di Eleganza, Fitz Roy. Topher Donahue February 23, 2006 Dear Daddy, A few ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Twice as Nice
Twice as Nice The all~free ascent of two El Capitan routes in a single day. Tommy Caldwell Sunday, October 30, 2005 ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
Rainbow Jambaia
Rainbow Jambaia The first free ascent of the main Angel Falls wall, Venezuela. Ivan Calderón In December 2004, after receiving ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
East of Lake Baikal
The mountains of the Stanovoi Range are located to the east of Lake Baikal in southeastern Russia. This vast territory, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2006
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Summary of Activity
Summary of activity. [Note: this summary supplements individual reports, mostly of bigger routes, below—Ed.] Mountaineering activity appears to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, Southeast Max Peak, Devil's Club to Top of East Face
Southeast Mox Peak, Devil's Club to top of east face. The east face of Southeast Mox Peak (a.k.a. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, Silver Star Mountain, Central Couloir to Near West Summit
Silver Star Mountain, Central Couloir to near West Summit. Anne Keller and I had both noticed a classic-looking alpine couloir ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, The Washington Pass Traverse
The Washington Pass Traverse. At the end of day two, August 25, Mark Allen and I had just completed three-fourths of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, Northern Pickets Traverse
Northern Pickets Traverse. No matter how content with success a climber gets atop the heights, the compulsion to gaze from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Washington, Johannesburg Mountain, The CK Route
Johannesburg Mountain, The CK Route. On August 27, we climbed a new direct line on the 4,600' north face. In 2002 we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Mt. Index, Murphy's Law
Mt. Index, Murphy’s Law. Stuart Taylor and I went in to check out the west face of the North ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Oregon, Various Activity
Oregon, various activity. On Mt. Hood’s Illumination Rock, on April 24 Mike Layton and Marcus Donaldson climbed a route that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Free Ascent of the Nose and Monster Linkup
Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, free ascent of the Nose and monster linkup. On October 30-31, in a 23-hour and 23-minute ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Mama, Flying in the Mountains, Homeworld
Yosemite Valley, Mama, Flying in the Mountains, Homeworld. On January 9 I experienced the most crushing and empowering day of my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Ballon Dome, Into the Pit and Netherworld; "Cat Wall," Heaven and Hell
Balloon Dome, Into the Pit and Netherworld; “Cat Wall,” Heaven and Hell. For the longest time I’ve wanted to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Angel Wings, Right Wing
Angel Wings, Right Wing. Chris LaBounty and I made the first ascent of the Right Wing (IV 5.10d) on Angel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Palisade Traverse in a Day
Palisade Traverse in a day. Gravity takes hold of my legs, and I stumble. My lungs still bursting, I see ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, California, Sierra and Yosemite, Various Activity
Sierra and Yosemite, various activity. Climbing.com reported that Dave Turner soloed a new route, Block Party (VI 5.9 A4), on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Idaho, Sacajewea Peak, Broken Wings to the North Peak
Sacajewea Peak, Broken Wings to the North Ridge. In mid-May, Aaron Mordicai, Abe Dickerson, and I traveled up the remote ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Idaho, Goat Perch, Great Gully
Goat Perch, Great Gully. On June 4 Dusty Perkins and I made an ascent of the Great Gully (IV 5.8 M3) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, various activity. Eric Bjørnstad reports that three previously unclimbed towers saw ascents in the fall: Tchaikovsky Overture (425...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Various Routes
San Rafael Swell, various routes. On January 30 Lance Bateman and I climbed a new route on the Eastern Reef of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Perfect Day for Bananafish and Occam's Razor
Perfect Day for Bananafish and Occam's Razor. In Kolob Canyons, on the south side of the finger canyon immediately south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Various Free Ascents
Various free ascents. I will look back on 2005 as the year I became obsessed with Zion free climbing. It started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah
Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah. In April, Chris Rowins, Dave Jones, and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, "Gatekeeper Wall," Locksmith Dihedral
“Gatekeeper Wall ” Locksmith Dihedral. Dave Jones, Chris Rowins, and I established the Locksmith Dihedral (IV 5.11d Cl) on the “Gatekeeper ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, New Mexico, Shield, The Promise Land
Shield, The Promise Land. On Oct 3, 2004, Carolyn Parker and I completed the first ascent of our big-wall project, The Promise ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Atlantis
Atlantis. Several years ago Kent Wheeler identified an unclimbed buttress below and around the corner from his route Lost Cities. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Various Activity
Black Canyon, various activity. In late April Chip Chace and I linked the opening pitches of the Dylan Wall (IV+ 5.12...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Warbonnet Peak, the Neu Low
Warbonnet Peak, The Neu Low. Climbing in the Alps is Alpinism; climbing in the Andes is Andinism, climbing in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Ambush Peak, Dike Route
Ambush Peak, Dike Route. Ambush Peak’s main face rises from a low angle apron, becoming steeper at mid-height, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Philip Smith Mountains, First Ascents and Exploration
Philip Smith Mountains, first ascents and exploration. I have explored a number of routes off the Accomplishment Lake pass, just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Balchen, The Handicapped Route
Moria, Thunder Ridge; other ascents. On May 28 Ilona Barash and I flew into Betties, with the Arrigetch under a heavy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
New York Section
Mt. Balchen, The Handicapped Ramp. The granitic massif of Mt. Balchen (Peak 11,140') sits at the head of the east ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. This season was not only another warm one, but also a record year for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006