American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

469 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Idaho, Pioneer Mountains, Hyndman Peak, Travis Michaelis Memorial Route
Hyndman Peak, Travis Michaelis Memorial Route. On May 14 Abe Dickerson and I climbed a very temporary ice route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Montana, Gallatin Canyon, Sheep Rock, Various Ascents
Sheep Rock, various ascents. Between August 2002 and July 2004 I climbed eight new routes on Sheep Rock in Gallatin Canyon, 20 miles ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Montana, Rocky Mountains, Beaverhead Mountains, Traverse
Beaverhead Mountains, traverse. On August 12, 2003, I finished a 1,362-mile journey that included a traverse of the Rocky Mountains. The journey ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Arrigetch Peaks, Samurai Savitz and Rock Jock
Arrigetch Peaks, Samurai Savitz and Rock Jock. Tim Kemple, Justin Sjong, and I flew to Betties, where we met Max ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Angutikada (Old Man Mountain), First Ascent in 1985
Angutikada (Old Man Mountain), first ascent in 1985. With Ron Watters, Deborah Dixon and I made our third attempt to climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, DeLong Mountains, Exploration
DeLong Mountains, exploration. In August Craig Deutche, Anne Machung, Jerry Weidler, and I established a new route across the DeLong ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Hayes Range, Nenana Mountain, Descent Gully and South Buttress
Nenana Mountain, Descent Gully and South Buttress. In March, with Fairbanks local Seth Adams, I followed rumors of granite and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Raindrops were falling at Kahiltna Basecamp the first week of May, as unusually and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Mt. McKinley, Northwest Face, Father and Sons Wall, Tranquillo Couloir
On June 4 Steve Lyall and I left the 14,000' camp on the West Buttress of Denali and descended to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, East Kahiltna Peak, D.S. and F.J.
East Kahiltna Peak, D.S. and F.J. Carl Tobin and I flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, East Kahiltna Peak, Homage to Pat
East Kahiltna Peak, Homage to Pat. On May 4, Jonny Blitz, Carl Tobin, Vince Anderson, and I pitched a small base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Gargoyle, Electric View; Pt. 6,000', Phanerotime
Gargoyle, Electric View; Pt. 6,000’, Phanerotime. In July, Jarle Kalland, Mads Lund, Steinar Holden, and I planned to go to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Mt. Dickey, Snowpatrol
Mt. Dickey, Snowpatrol. After hearing vague rumors concerning a gorge with mixed lines 5,000' high, half an hour from camp, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Ruth Gorge, Snowpatrol Second Ascent, Cornhole Couloir, and British Invasion
Ruth Gorge, Snowpatrol second ascent, Cornhole Couloir, and British invasion. It’s late March and only six days into a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, The Stump, Goldfinger; Mt. Barrill, Cobra Pillar Speed Ascent
The Stump, Goldfinger; Mt. Barrill, Cobra Pillar speed ascent. An extended Alaska season gave me the opportunity to climb 14 routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Moose's Tooth, Arctic Rage
Moose's Tooth, Arctic Rage. From March 31—April 3, Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney established Arctic Rage (4,500', VI WI6+R A2) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Mooses Tooth, Levitation and Hail Marys, and Various Activity
On May 26 and 27 Scott Adamson and I completed a new route on the south face of the Mooses Tooth. Following ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Bear Tooth, White Russian
Bear Tooth, White Russian. Taras Mytropan (Ukraine), Sergei Matusevich (Ukraine), and I climbed a direct line on the west face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Bear Tooth, Unforgiven to Serac Base
Bear Tooth, Unforgiven to serac base. On May 13 Gilly James and I climbed a gully on a west-facing buttress of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, MooseSkin Mountain, The Ass of Spades, and Various Attempts
Mooseskin Mountain, The Ass of Spades, and various attempts. First, I thank the American Alpine Club for considering awarding a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Toyal Tower, Canadian Bacon, and Thunder Mountain, Maxim
Royal Tower, Canadian Bacon, and Thunder Mountain, Maxim. Shawn Huisman and I climbed two new routes during a two-week door-to-door ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Thunder Mountain, The Bums Lost Variation, and Dream Sacrifice, Repeat to Summit
Thunder Mountain, The Bums Lost variation, and Dream Sacrifice, repeat to summit. On May 15 Roy Leggett, Steve Su, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Thunder Mountain, Paikea's Journey, and Mt. Providence, Divine Providence
Thunder Mountain, Paikea's Journey, and Mt. Providence, Divine Providence. Jeremy “Jay” Piggott of New Zealand and I based ourselves and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Mt. Nevermore, The Perfect Storm
Mt. Nevermore, The Perfect Storm. After a four-day snowy wait in Talkeetna, Paul Roderick of TAT flew Dai Lampard, Stuart ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Tatina Spire, Groundhog Day, and Mt. Haffner, Attempt
Tatina Spire, Groundhog Day, and Mt. Haffner, attempt. British climbers Mark Reeves and Steve Sinfield visited the Tatina Glacier for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Neacola Mountains, Chakachamna Peak, South Face to Near Summit
Chakachamna Peak, south face to near summit. Fred Beckey had his eye on a prominent 7,530' peak in the Neacola ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Chugach and Wrangell Mountains, Heritage Point and Mt. Yukla
After five failed attempts with several partners, I joined with Dan Petrus to complete the first ascent of the north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Neacola Mountains, Chugach Mountains, Ski Traverse
Chugach Mountains, ski traverse. In April we skied from Valdez, Alaska, to the Glenn Highway by way of Mt. Thor ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Neacola Mountains, Upper Powell Glacier and Upper Barnard Glacier
Upper Powell Glacier and Upper Barnard Glacier, various ascents and ski descents. Mike Meekins flew Dave Kinsella (Ireland), Wilfred Glanznig (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather Range, Various Ascents and Ski Descents
Various ascents and ski descents. The name, bestowed in 1778 by the range’s discoverer, Captain James Cook, is itself a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaksa Coast Mountains, Various Ascents
Various ascents. My father, Charles B. Daellenbach of Albany, Oregon, Scott McGee of Anchorage, Alaska, Fred Skemp III of La ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Coast Mountains, Devil's Thumb, South Pillar, First Free Ascent
Devil’s Thumb, South Pillar, first free ascent. In July Carl Diedrich and I spent several weeks climbing and exploring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Coast Mountains, Devil's Thumb Massif, Everything
Devil's Thumb massif, everything. Four years ago on an expedition to nearby Oasis Peak, Dieter Klose planted a seed: the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, St. Elias Range, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mountaineering Summary and Statistics
Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. Mountaineering use was down by 50% in the St. Elias Ranges, with only 19 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, St. Elias Range, Mt. Kennedy, Northwest Face
Mt. Kennedy, northwest face. As a two-man team, Jon Bracey and I wanted a challenging mixed objective we could attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Bylot and Baffin Islands, Ascents and Exploration
Bylot and Baffin Islands, ascents and exploration. In May, Louise Jarry and I made a 30-day exploratory ski tour of 300...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Exploration and Various Descents
Exploration and various descents. The original premise of Brad Barlage’s and my trip, from mid-April to mid-May, was to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Mt. Odin, South Couloir Ski Descent
Mt. Odin, south couloir ski descent. On April 17 Jim Surette, Ken Sauls, and I left our camp at the Windy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Logan Mountains, Vampire Spire, Nosferatu
Vampire Spire, Nosferatu. It was about 4:30 in the afternoon when the three of us reached the oddly sloping ledge 100m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Logan Mountains, Vampire Spire, The Coffin and The Dark Side
Vampire Spire, The Coffin and The Dark Side. On July 17 Pat Goodman and I began what seems to have become ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. 2004 was an astonishing year in the Coast Mountains, especially the Waddington Range. The new Waddington ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Southwest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) Summary
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. Although it was a great year for new routes in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Talchako, Northeast Ridge
Mt. Talchako, Northeast Ridge. In the last week of July, Fred Beckey (2003 Subaru), Drew Brayshaw (Chilliwack, B.C.), James Nakagami (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Waddington, Possible Variation and Bushwhack from the Sea
Mt. Waddington, possible variation and bushwhack from the sea. On July 28 Patrick Farrell and I began the approach to Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Combatant, The Incisor, The Smoke Show
Mt. Combatant, The Incisor, The Smoke Show. John Furneaux, Paul Bride, and I made base camp on a protected ledge 500 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stiletto, Drag Queen
Stiletto, Drag Queen. On July 26 Justin Cassels, Jonny Simms, and I started up a corner system on the Stiletto that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Judge Howay, North Face and Ski Descent
Mt. Judge Howay, north face and ski descent. At the beginning of March, Scott Murray (U.S.) and I climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Crumble Tower, When Hairy Met Scary; and Half Dome, Irregular Route
Crumble Tower, When Hairy Met Scary; and Half Dome, Irregular Route. On August 9 Graham Rowbotham (Canada) and I made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mt. MacDonald, Little Face, Prime Rib to Summit Ridge
Mt. MacDonald, Little Face, Prime Rib to summit ridge. Characterized by long, continuous rock ribs, numerous avalanche paths, frozen waterfalls ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Various Free Ascents
Various free ascents. In July and August Nick Martino, Cedar Wright, and I freed two unrepeated aid lines on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005