American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

469 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, China, Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Qiajajima I (5,930m), First Ascent
Qiajajima I (5,930m), first ascent. Qiajajima massif is the highest mountain in the headwaters of the Mekong River on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Chola Shan, Ganzi Tibetan Prefecture, Mt. Chola (6,148m), Third Ascent; Correction to 1988 "Cheru" Ascent and Altitude
Ganzi Tibetan Prefecture, Mt. Chola (6,148m), third ascent; correction to 1988 “Cheru” ascent and altitude. We made the third known successful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan, Kham Region: Jarjinjabo, Janmo Spire Summit Block, First Ascent
Kham region: Jarjinjabo, Jantno Spire summit block, first ascent. In August Bernie Laforest, Ben Ditto, Jonathan Knight, Steve Cater, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Haizi Shan (5,820m), East Ridge, North Summit Ascent and Main Summit Attempt
Haizi Shan (5,820m), east ridge, north summit ascent and main summit attempt. Known to Tibetans as Ja-ra (King of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Mt. Edgar and Xiao Pangwa Attempts
Mt. Edgar and Xiao Pangwa attempts. During the spring a British expedition comprising Angela Benham, Chris Drinkwater, Titch Kavangh and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Longemain (6,294m) and Daddomain (6,380m), First Ascents
Longemain (6,294m) and Daddomain (6,380m), first ascents. The excitement started early on this trip. Originally heading to eastern Tibet, our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Lixian County, Bipeng Valley, Half Ridge Peak (Banji Feng) (5,430m), North Face, First Ascent
Lixian County, Bipeng Valley, Half Ridge Peak (Banji Feng) (5,430m), north face, first ascent. On May 4 our team made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Bipeng Valley, Peak 5,370m First Ascent
Bipeng Valley, Peak 5,370m, first ascent. On April 27 Rongqing Su (China) and I (USA) made the first ascent of Peak 5,370 (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Bipeng Valley Nature Preserve, Background Information
Bipetig Valley Nature Preserve, background information. Bipeng Valley has at least 40 (maybe over 60) unclimbed 5,000+ meter peaks. In 2003 a paved ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Mt. Siguniang (6,249m), Southeast Ridge, Second Ascent
Mt. Siguniang (6,249m), southeast ridge, second ascent. Mt. Siguniang was first summited in August 1981 by a Japanese team via the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Siguniang, North Face Attempt; Siguniang North, Attempt; Camel Peaks
Siguniang, north face attempt; Siguniang North, attempt; Camel Peaks. The Siguniang Group was visited in May by UK alpinists, Tom ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Siguniang National Park, Suang Qiao Gou Valley: Mi Mi Shan (5,018m), First Ascent; Heart of Cow (Niuxim Shan) (4,942m), North Face, First Ascent
Siguniang National Park, Suang Qiao Gou Valley: Mi Mi Shan (5,018m), first ascent; Heart of Cow (Niuxim Shan) (4,942m), north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Qonglai Shan, Nuixim Shan, Northwest Side, Attempt
Qonglai Shan, Nuixim Shan, northwest side, attempt. Shaluli Shan, Jarjinjabo Massif: Spank Peak (ca 17,500'), south face, attempt; Jarjinjabo, south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Daxuetang-feng (5,364m), Second Ascent, New Route
Daxuetang-feng (5,364m), second ascent, new route. Daxuetang-feng is a well-known mountain visible from the road from Chengdu to Balang Pass (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Permit Problems in East Tibet, What Went Wrong
Permit problems in East Tibet, what went wrong. Everyone asks me, “What happened regarding the permits to East Tibet in ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Asia, Tibet, Ngari Province, Nganglong Kangri (Kang Ngolok) (6,710m), First Ascent
Nganglong Kangri (Kang Ngolok) (6,710m), first ascent. The British Nganglong Kangri Expedition consisted of Derek Buckle, Martin Scott, and myself (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Tatungsakhu Himal, Pachyung Ham (6,529m), Gang Dzong Kang (6,123m), First Ascents
Pachyung Ham (6,529m), Gang Dzong Kang (6,123m), first ascents. The Kansai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) sent an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Shishapangma Main Summit (8,027m), Southwest Face, Solo in December with New Variation
Shishapatigma main summit (8,027m), southwest face, solo in December with new variation. Over the years I had a simple idea ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Shishapangma, Notes on the Lafaille Ascent and Winter Season
Shishapangma, notes on the Lafaille ascent and winter season. When the Nepalese Government established a winter season for the Nepal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Winter Ascents of 8,000m Peaks, Commentary
Winter ascents of 8,000m peaks, commentary. Katia Lafaille, wife of the renowned Jean Christophe Lafaille, recently reported about the excellent ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Shishapangma, First Winter Ascent
Shishapangma, first winter ascent. I was sick and tired of the extra-European alpinism I was doing; I did not find ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Qow Xab (Palung Ri) (7,022m)
Qow Xab (Palung Ri) (7,022m). I made a quick ascent of unclimbed [see editor’s note below] Qow Xab via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Hima, Everest, North Face, New Route
Everest, north face, new route. One of the season’s most important climbs was the ascent of Everest’s great ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, North Face New Route, Personal Commentary on History and Style
Everest, north face new route, personal commentary on history and style. The expedition to Everest by the North Face was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, Search for Andrew Irvine's Body
Everest, search for Andrew Irvine’s body. Amid much speculation about the fate of Andrew Irvine, members of the 1999 and 2001 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Makalu II (7,678), New Route and First Ascent from Tibet
Makalu II (7,678m), new route and first ascent from Tibet. Jean Christophe Lafaille’s ambitious and committing plan was a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Yadong County, Chomolhari (7,326m), Alpine Style Ascent
Chomolhari (7,326m), alpine style ascent. On 7 May Roger Payne and I (both British) made a rapid alpine style ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Lhozhag Region, Kula Kangri I (7,538m) (Künla Kangri, Main Peak), Attempt
Kula Kangri I (7,538m) (Künla Kangri, Main Peak), attempt. This assault on the main peak of Kula Kangri was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Lhozhag Region, Kula Kangri, West Ridge Attempt
Kula Kangri, west ridge attempt. A French commercial expedition jointly led by lean Annequin and Ludovic Challeat attempted the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Lhozhag Region, Kula Kangri, West Ridge Attempt
Kula Kangri, west ridge attempt. A three-man Danish team led by Claus Olsen also attempted the West Ridge at the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Lhozhag Region, Monda Kangri (6,426m), Attempt
Monda Kangri (6,426m), attempt. Monda Kargri is located at 28.2°N and 90.6°E, 145km south of Lhasa. It is an isolated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Nyainqentanglha East, Jiequinnalagabu (Namla Karpa) (6,316m), First Ascent
Jieqinnalagabu (Namla Karpa) (6,316m), first ascent. We met our staff and got our permit for Tibet in Kathmandu on August 16. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Australasia, New Zealand, The Darran Mountains, Fiordland Summary
Summer 2002/2003 – Autumn 2004 The Darran Mountains, Fiordland summary. The Darran Mountains are New Zealand’s greatest multi-pitch alpine rock venue. With ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Australasia, New Zealand, Barron Saddle, Mt. Brewster Region Summary
Barron Saddle, Mt. Brewster region summary. This is a large and complex alpine region broadly covering the Southern Alps south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Australasia, New Zealand,  Aoraki, Mt. Cook and Westland Summary
Aoraki Mt. Cook and Westland summary. The Aoraki Mt. Cook and Westland region is a shadow of its former self ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Australasia, New Zealand,  Alpine Rock in the Darran Mountains Summary
Alpine rock in the Darran Mountains summary. After a quiet winter, some sustained periods of fine weather and a group ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Australasia, New Zealand,  Mt. Aspiring region summary
Mt. Aspiring region summary. In terms of new route activity it has been a relatively quiet year for the Aspiring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Australasia, New Zealand, Queenstown Region Summary
Queenstown region summary. The Remarkable Range continues to be a ice playground in winter with several new lines being establised ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Australasia, New Zealand, Hopkins Valley Region Summary
Hopkins Valley region summary. Exceeding the Aoraki Mt. Cook area for new routes, this accessible area continues to receive attention ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Australasia, New Zealand, Aoraki Mount Cook and Westland Summary
Aoraki Mount Cook and Westland summary. There were a number of standout climbs at Aoraki Mt. Cook during the last ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
When the Alps Cast Their Spell: Mountaineers of the Alpine Golden Age
When the Alps Cast Their Spell: Mountaineers of the Alpine Golden Age. Trevor Braham. Glasgow, The In Pinn (Neil Wilson ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2005
High Rocks and Ice: The Classic Mountain Photographs of Bob and Ira Spring
High Rocks and Ice: The Classic Mountain Photographs of Bob and Ira Spring. Ira Spring. Foreword by John Harlin III. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2005
Mount Everest, Khumbu Himal, Rolwaling Himal I Khumbakarna Himal, Satellite Image Map; K2 and the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram, Satellite Image Map
Mount Everest, Khumbu Himal, Rolwaling Himal I Khumbakarna Himal, Satellite Image Map (1:1,000,000), Jan Zurawski. K2 and the Baltoro Glacier in ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2005
Postcards from The Trailer Park
Postcards From The Trailer Park. Cameron Burns. New York: The Lyons Press. 2004. Paperback. 279 pages. When I received Cameron Burns’ book ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2005
Ways to the Sky: A Historical Guide to North American Mountaineering
Ways to the Sky: A Historical Guide to North American Mountaineering, Andy Selters. Golden, CO: The American Alpine Club Press. 334 ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2005
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
Between a Rock and a Hard Place. Aron Ralston. Atria Books: New York, 2004.354 pages, with 16 pages of color photos. $26.00 This ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2005
Longs Peak: The Story of Colorado's Favorite Fourteener
Longs Peak: The Story of Colorado’s Favorite Fourteener. Dougald MacDonald. Englewood, CO: Westcliffe Publishers, 2004.240 pages. Paperback. $24.95. From a speeding ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2005
In Brief: Notes from the Banff Mountain Book Festival 2004
In Brief: Notes from the Banff Mountain Book Festival 2004 Twelve years ago North America launched its first mountain literature event: ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2005
Barry Corbet, 1936-2004
Barry Corbet 1936-2004 “Damn it,” Barry said. I’d just shared my latest ruminations on heroes, and declared him one ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2005
William Preston "Bill" Elfendahl, 1914-2004
William Preston “Bill” Elfendahl 1914-2004 Bill Elfendahl, 89, Boeing engineer, one of REI’s founders, mountaineer, skier, sailor, and Scout leader ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2005