American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

469 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur Himal, Losar Waterfall, One-day Ascent
Losar waterfall, one-day ascent. In February Conrad Anker and I did what may be the first one-day ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur Himal, Ama Dablam, Crowds on Normal Route
Ama Dablam, crowds on normal route. In the view of many, there were too many people on Ama Dablam (6,812m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, North Face, New Route
Everest, north face, new route. Elizabeth Hawley’s account of the Russian new route on the north face of Everest, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, 2004 Summary
Everest, 2004 summary. During spring 2003, in the 50th anniversary season of Everest’s first ascent, a record number of men and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, Uncommon Events on Standard Routes
Everest, uncommon events on standard routes. In the spring a Greek expedition sent one climbing team to the north side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur South, Kusum Kanguru (6,367m), South Ridge
Kusum Kanguru (6,367m), south ridge, new route attempt. From the 10th of November until the 21st of November Young Chet ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur East - Barun Section, Baruntse North (Khali Himal) (7,057m), North Face, Ciao Patrick
Baruntse North (Khali Himal) (7,057m), north face, Ciao Patrick. It was very, very difficult. We gave it all we had, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur East: Makalu Section, Makalu, Southeast Ridge Integral Attempt
Makalu, southeast ridge integral attempt. In spring a 14-member British Services expedition hoped to climb the south east ridge integral ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur East: Makalu Section, Makalu, Southeast Ridge Ascent
Makalu, southeast ridge ascent. After they had abandoned their attempt on the northeast ridge from Tibet, reported elsewhere, Frenchmen Yannick ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Region, Janak Himal, Janak (Outlier Peak) (7,044m), Attempt
Janak (Outlier Peak) (7,044m), attempt. In November two members of a Romanian team led by Constantine Lacatusu were the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Region, Janak Himal, Dome Kang (Domekhan) (7,264m), First Attempt
Dome Kang (Domekhan) (7,264m), first attempt. On Nepal’s border with Tibet, a six-member team of Spaniards were the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Region, Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu (Kumbhakarna), East Face Attempt and History
Jannu (Kumbhakarna), east face attempt and history. Jannu, also known as Kumbhakarna, not far from Kangchenjunga, has a forbiddingly precipitous ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Region, Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu, North Face, New Route Summary
Jannu, north face, new route summary. The historic climb in the Nepalese Himalaya during the pre-monsoon season was the successful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Region, Kangchenjunga Himal South, Kabru IV (7,318m), West Face Attempt
Kabru IV (7,318m), west face attempt. A Serbian expedition may have been only the third to make a serious attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Climbing Fatalities in Nepal
Climbing fatalities in Nepal. Besides the seven deaths on Everest, two other climbers died last spring: American Jay Sieger and ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Emerging Trends Among Chinese Climbers
Emerging trends among Chinese climbers. China not only has the tallest mountains in the world, it also has some of ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Asia, China, Tien Shan, Kashkar, First Ascent and Traverse
Kashkar, first ascent and traverse. In July a team from Moscow made the first ascent of 6,435m Kashkar (aka Koshkar ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Kun Lun Shan, Kongur Tagh (7,719m), Northeast Ridge, New Route
Kongur Tagh (7,719m), northeast ridge, new route. Kongur Tagh’s summit is on China territory close to the border of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Kun Lun Shan, Kongur East (7,300m), Ascent to 7,300m and Proposed Name for Highpoint on East Ridge of Kongur (7,719m)
Kongur East (7,300m ), ascent to 7,300m and proposed name for highpoint on east ridge of Kongur (7,719m). Kongur is the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Kun Lun Shan, Kara Kunlun, Dolkun Muztag (6,355m), First Ascent
Kara Kunlun, Dolkun Muztag (6,355m), first ascent. The student mountaineering party of Tokai University Alpine Club was the first to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Qiajajima I (5,930m), First Ascent
Qiajajima I (5,930m), first ascent. Qiajajima massif is the highest mountain in the headwaters of the Mekong River on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Chola Shan, Ganzi Tibetan Prefecture, Mt. Chola (6,148m), Third Ascent; Correction to 1988 "Cheru" Ascent and Altitude
Ganzi Tibetan Prefecture, Mt. Chola (6,148m), third ascent; correction to 1988 “Cheru” ascent and altitude. We made the third known successful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan, Kham Region: Jarjinjabo, Janmo Spire Summit Block, First Ascent
Kham region: Jarjinjabo, Jantno Spire summit block, first ascent. In August Bernie Laforest, Ben Ditto, Jonathan Knight, Steve Cater, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Haizi Shan (5,820m), East Ridge, North Summit Ascent and Main Summit Attempt
Haizi Shan (5,820m), east ridge, north summit ascent and main summit attempt. Known to Tibetans as Ja-ra (King of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Mt. Edgar and Xiao Pangwa Attempts
Mt. Edgar and Xiao Pangwa attempts. During the spring a British expedition comprising Angela Benham, Chris Drinkwater, Titch Kavangh and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Longemain (6,294m) and Daddomain (6,380m), First Ascents
Longemain (6,294m) and Daddomain (6,380m), first ascents. The excitement started early on this trip. Originally heading to eastern Tibet, our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Lixian County, Bipeng Valley, Half Ridge Peak (Banji Feng) (5,430m), North Face, First Ascent
Lixian County, Bipeng Valley, Half Ridge Peak (Banji Feng) (5,430m), north face, first ascent. On May 4 our team made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Bipeng Valley, Peak 5,370m First Ascent
Bipeng Valley, Peak 5,370m, first ascent. On April 27 Rongqing Su (China) and I (USA) made the first ascent of Peak 5,370 (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Bipeng Valley Nature Preserve, Background Information
Bipetig Valley Nature Preserve, background information. Bipeng Valley has at least 40 (maybe over 60) unclimbed 5,000+ meter peaks. In 2003 a paved ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Mt. Siguniang (6,249m), Southeast Ridge, Second Ascent
Mt. Siguniang (6,249m), southeast ridge, second ascent. Mt. Siguniang was first summited in August 1981 by a Japanese team via the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Siguniang, North Face Attempt; Siguniang North, Attempt; Camel Peaks
Siguniang, north face attempt; Siguniang North, attempt; Camel Peaks. The Siguniang Group was visited in May by UK alpinists, Tom ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Siguniang National Park, Suang Qiao Gou Valley: Mi Mi Shan (5,018m), First Ascent; Heart of Cow (Niuxim Shan) (4,942m), North Face, First Ascent
Siguniang National Park, Suang Qiao Gou Valley: Mi Mi Shan (5,018m), first ascent; Heart of Cow (Niuxim Shan) (4,942m), north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Qonglai Shan, Nuixim Shan, Northwest Side, Attempt
Qonglai Shan, Nuixim Shan, northwest side, attempt. Shaluli Shan, Jarjinjabo Massif: Spank Peak (ca 17,500'), south face, attempt; Jarjinjabo, south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Daxuetang-feng (5,364m), Second Ascent, New Route
Daxuetang-feng (5,364m), second ascent, new route. Daxuetang-feng is a well-known mountain visible from the road from Chengdu to Balang Pass (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Permit Problems in East Tibet, What Went Wrong
Permit problems in East Tibet, what went wrong. Everyone asks me, “What happened regarding the permits to East Tibet in ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Asia, Tibet, Ngari Province, Nganglong Kangri (Kang Ngolok) (6,710m), First Ascent
Nganglong Kangri (Kang Ngolok) (6,710m), first ascent. The British Nganglong Kangri Expedition consisted of Derek Buckle, Martin Scott, and myself (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Tatungsakhu Himal, Pachyung Ham (6,529m), Gang Dzong Kang (6,123m), First Ascents
Pachyung Ham (6,529m), Gang Dzong Kang (6,123m), first ascents. The Kansai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) sent an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Shishapangma Main Summit (8,027m), Southwest Face, Solo in December with New Variation
Shishapatigma main summit (8,027m), southwest face, solo in December with new variation. Over the years I had a simple idea ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Shishapangma, Notes on the Lafaille Ascent and Winter Season
Shishapangma, notes on the Lafaille ascent and winter season. When the Nepalese Government established a winter season for the Nepal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Winter Ascents of 8,000m Peaks, Commentary
Winter ascents of 8,000m peaks, commentary. Katia Lafaille, wife of the renowned Jean Christophe Lafaille, recently reported about the excellent ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Shishapangma, First Winter Ascent
Shishapangma, first winter ascent. I was sick and tired of the extra-European alpinism I was doing; I did not find ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Qow Xab (Palung Ri) (7,022m)
Qow Xab (Palung Ri) (7,022m). I made a quick ascent of unclimbed [see editor’s note below] Qow Xab via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Hima, Everest, North Face, New Route
Everest, north face, new route. One of the season’s most important climbs was the ascent of Everest’s great ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, North Face New Route, Personal Commentary on History and Style
Everest, north face new route, personal commentary on history and style. The expedition to Everest by the North Face was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, Search for Andrew Irvine's Body
Everest, search for Andrew Irvine’s body. Amid much speculation about the fate of Andrew Irvine, members of the 1999 and 2001 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Makalu II (7,678), New Route and First Ascent from Tibet
Makalu II (7,678m), new route and first ascent from Tibet. Jean Christophe Lafaille’s ambitious and committing plan was a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Yadong County, Chomolhari (7,326m), Alpine Style Ascent
Chomolhari (7,326m), alpine style ascent. On 7 May Roger Payne and I (both British) made a rapid alpine style ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Lhozhag Region, Kula Kangri I (7,538m) (Künla Kangri, Main Peak), Attempt
Kula Kangri I (7,538m) (Künla Kangri, Main Peak), attempt. This assault on the main peak of Kula Kangri was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Lhozhag Region, Kula Kangri, West Ridge Attempt
Kula Kangri, west ridge attempt. A French commercial expedition jointly led by lean Annequin and Ludovic Challeat attempted the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Lhozhag Region, Kula Kangri, West Ridge Attempt
Kula Kangri, west ridge attempt. A three-man Danish team led by Claus Olsen also attempted the West Ridge at the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005