American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

469 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, New Route Attempt
Fitz Roy, new route attempt. We made two trips to Patagonia to climb the Northwest Pillar of Fitz Roy. On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Canadian Route; Aguja Rafael Juarez, Comono; Other Firsts and New Variations
Fitz Roy, Canadian Route; Aguja Rafael Juarez, Comono; other firsts and new variations. There was excitement among the climbers at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Agujas Saint Exupery, Rafael Juarez, and Poincenot, Traverse
Agujas Saint Exupery, Rafael Juarez, and Poincenot, traverse. Beginning on February 18 Jonny Copp and I enchained Saint Exupery, Aguja Rafael ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre Massifs, Various Ascents
Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, various ascents. Between mid-January and early March a young team of Slovene climbers, including ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Hielo Continental, Cerro Dos Cuernos, First Ascent
Cerro Dos Cuernos, first ascent. The Cordon Mariano Moreno is a range located in the middle of the Southern Patagonia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Hielo Continental, Cerro Murallón, Attempt
Cerro Murallón, attempt. The following has been condensed from a press release provided by Glowacz’s publicist in response ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, North Tower of Paine, New Route
North Tower of Paine, new route. In February 2002 John Rzeczycki and I climbed a new route that went to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Paine Chico, Eol
Paine Chico, Eol. I first saw the west face of Paine Chico (also called Cerro Almirante Nieto’s west summit) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, South of Paine, Cerro Ladrillero, First Ascent
Cerro Ladrillero, first ascent. Patagonia is a land that challenges you to be patient, where waiting for the window is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Tierro del Fuego, Yorkminster Group, Exploration and Monte Vavel Attempt
In February Krzysztof Wielicki, Jacek Fluder, Wlodzimierz Szczesny, and I, after traveling for 80 hours from Poland, set up base camp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Vinson, Summary, Record Numbers and New Route
Vinson, summary, record numbers and new route. Over 120 people attempted Vinson Massif this season, far surpassing the previous record of 78 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Jaca Peak (3,372m), Southeast Face; Vinson West, Galfrío Route; Mt. Vinson (4,897m), Friendship Banana Gully to Branscomb Ridge
Jaca Peak (3,372m), southeast face; Vinson West, Galfrío Route; Mt. Vinson (4,897m), Friendship Banana Gully to Branscomb ridge. On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Vinson, New height (4,892m), First Ascents of Sub-Peaks, Many New Peak Names
Vinson, new height (4,892m), first ascents of sub-peaks, many new peak names. As the name implies, Vinson Massif is a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Vinson, summit register removed
Vinson, summit register removed. On January 1, 2005 I removed the summit register book from the aluminum cylinder in which it had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, The Peninsula, Livingston Island, Tangra Mountains, Komini Peak, West Slope New Rock Route
Tangra Mountains, Komini Peak, west slope new rock route. Komini (774m: 62°39'10.1"S, 60°07’05.7" W) is one of the minor peaks ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, The Peninsula, Livingston Island, Tangra Mountains, Lyaskovets Peak, First Ascent; Zograf Peak, First Ascent
Tangra Mountains, Lyaskovets Peak, first ascent; Zograf Peak, first ascent. Lyaskovets (62°39'48.5" S, 60°08'34.7" W) is a peak of elevation 1,473 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, The Peninsula, Livingston Island, Vidin Heights, Melnik Peak, Melnik Ridge, First Ascent
Vidin Heights, Melnik Peak, Melnik Ridge, first ascent. Miziya Peak (604m: 62°36'06.4" S, 60°09'11.2" W) is the main summit of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, The Peninsula, Livingston Island, The Peninsula; Attempts and Ascents on Anvers, Brabant, and Wiencke islands
The Peninsula; attempts and ascents on Anvers, Brabant, and Wiencke islands. A team of primarily British climbers aboard Alun Hubbard’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, South Georgia, Larsen Harbour to Royal Bay Traverse and First Ascent of Peak 5,680'
Larsen Harbour to Royal Bay traverse and first ascent of Peak 5,680'. Using Skip Novak’s yacht Pelagic to make ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Antarctica, South Georgia, Mt. Paget and Other Attempts
Mt. Paget and other attempts. From February to May 2005 a multi-national team of climbers sailed the yacht Gambo from Ushuaia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Morocco, Atlas Mountains, Taghia, Oujdad peak (2,695 m), Barracuda
Atlas Mountains, Taghia, Oujdad peak (2,695 m), Barracuda. In the remote High Atlas Mountains, the Polish team of Eliza Kubarska, Borek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Morocco, Atlas Mountains, Taghia, Jbel Tagoujimt N' Tsouaint, Tamdoine
Atlas Mountains, Taghia, Jbel Tagoujimt N’ Tsouaint, Tamdoine. At the end of September the team of three Catalonians (Jordi Jambert ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Morocco, Anti Atlas, Tafraoute, New Routes
Anti Atlas, Tafraoute, new routes. It was a brilliant week of doing new routes on the quartzite around Tafraoute. Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Uganda, Rwensori Mountains, Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m)
Rwenzori Mountains, Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m), west face, new route. In July, Steve Roach—44-year-old rocket scientist for NASA, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Kenya, Mt. Kenya, Pt. John, New Rock Routes
Mt. Kenya, Pt. John, new rock routes. December weather is still unstable: sunny warm days can switch with high winds, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Kenya, Nithi Gorge, Opium of the People
Nithi Gorge, Opium of the People. Alex Fiksman and I climbed a new route in the Nithi Gorge over two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Kenya, Ndoto Mountains, Poi, Doing A Dirty Eastern Groove
Ndoto Mountains, Poi, Doing A Dirty Eastern Groove. During July of 2003, we climbed a new 17-pitch route up the east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Kenya, Ndoto Mountains, Poi, Story About Dancing Dogs
Ndoto Mountains, Poi, Story About Dancing Dogs. In 2002 the Slovenian team of Luka Fonda, Stanko Gruden, Matja Jeran, Goran Koren, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Kenya, Ndoto Mountains, Manamonet, Maximum Miracle Centre
Ndoto Mountains, Manamonet, Maximum Miracle Centre. The British team of Toby Dunn, Alex Jakubowski, and Ben Winston, climbed a virgin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Africa, Madagascar, Tsaranoro Atsimo, Avanà
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Avanà. Between October 1 and 7 Italians Paolo Stoppini, Paolo Tombini, Alberto Zucchetti, and I climbed a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Europe, Scotland, Scottish Winter Season Summary
Scottish winter season summary. Late January 2005. The last vestiges of a pathetic wet snowfall are swept from the hills by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Europe, Norway, Romsdal, Mongejura (1,200m), Southwest Face, El Pinche Borrego
Romsdal, Mongejura (1,200m), southwest face, El Pinche Borrego. In July David Font Ventura, Jordi Cañigueral Vilá, Jordi Servosa Roca, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin, Yellow Wall, Possible New Route
Yellow Wall, possible new route. Our 21-day expedition to the Karavshin Valley last July was during one of the rainiest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Zaalayskiy Ridge, Exploration, First Ascents and New Routes
On July 22 a team from the UK, including a US citizen now working in Scotland, set off for Kyrgyzstan. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Kyzyl Asker, Second Ascent; New Routes on Great Walls of China, Ochre Wall, Panfilov Ski Division
Guy Robertson and I returned to Kyrgyzstan’s Western Kokshaal-Too in late August, intent on finishing what we had started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kikshaal Too, Pik Sabor, New Route Attempt and Repeat of North Ridge
Pik Sabor, new route attempt and repeat of north ridge. In 2003 the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne suffered a tragic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kikshaal Too, Pik Yurnos, Second Ascent
Pik Yurnos, second ascent. With help from the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund, Melis Coady and I spent several weeks during ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Central Borkoldoy, Exploration and Various First Ascents
Central Borkoldoy, exploration and various first ascents. The central area of the Borkoldoy range in southeast Kyrgyzstan is a group ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Borkoldoy, Kuilu Range, First Ascents
Kuilu Range, first ascents. Gaizka Bilbao and Belen Menedez from Spain, with Amando Niño de Rivera (Mexico) and Gerard ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Borkoldoy, Djungart Range, First Recorded Visit and Exploration
Djungart Range, first recorded visit and exploration. After an acclimatization ascent in the Ala Archa, Graham Sutton and I traveled ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Borkoldoy, Khan Tengri, Multiple Deaths
Khan Tengri, mulitiple deaths. Sometimes referred to as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, 6,995m Khan Tengri ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Peak Fees
Pakistan, peak fees. We are pleased to inform all clients, friends, the mountaineering community and adventure enthusiasts, particularly climbers, that ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Range, Nanga Parbat, Mazeno Ridge, Rupal Face Attempt
Nanga Parbat, Mazeno Ridge, Rupal Face attempt. Steve House (leader), Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, and I traveled from the Charakusa ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Himalaya, Hindu Raj, Gordoghan Zom III, Buni Zom Mountain
Gordoghan Zom III, Buni Zom Mountain. Nikolas Kroupis and I first went to the Buni Zom range in July 2002 without ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Sakar Sar, Second Ascent
Sakar Sar, second ascent. Kunihiko Sato made a solo ascent of the 6,272m Sakar Sar via the southeast ridge. This ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Mutagh, Hispar Sar, Attempt
Hispar Sar, attempt. On September 17 the British Hispar Sar Expedition 2004 (Andy Parkin and myself) set up a base camp at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Rakaposhi Range, Spantik, Ascent of 1987 British Descent Route
Spantik, ascent of 1987 British Descent Route. A small Japanese expedition climbed 7,028m Spantik from the northwest, repeating the Descent Route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Latok V (6,190m), Attempt
Latok V (6,190m), attempt. Motomu Omiya with two other companions made his fourth attempt on this unclimbed 6,190m summit, which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Trango Group, Shipton Spire, New Routes and  Attempts
Shipton Spire, new routes and attempts. The expedition of the Slovak Mountaineering Union was in Pakistan from July 17 to September 8. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Trango Group, Shipton Spire, New Route Attempt
Shipton Spire, new route attempt. Bulgarians Milkana Ruseva, Dimitar Tzolov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov, and I climbed a variation start to Ship ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005