American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

469 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Caraz II, Australian Route and Salida Directa de Los Gordos
Caraz II, Australian Route and Salida Directa de Los Gordos. Early season snowfalls in the Cordillera Blanca created unstable conditions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Parón, Bartonellosis to Summit Mushroom
Parón, Bartonellosis to summit mushroom. Owen Samuel, Mike Pescod, Tony Barton, and I set off up the Santa Cruz ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, La Esfinge, Killa Quillay and Variation
La Esfinge, Killa Quillay and variation. From July 24-31, Spanish climbers Ángel Olmos, Antonio L. Liria, and José M. Cancho ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Yanawaca, Attempt
Yanawaca, attempt. Last May two Mexican friends, Carlos Bazua Morales and Emiliano Villanueva Rabotnikof, and I traveled to the Cordillera ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco Este, South Face to Summit Ridge
Pisco Este, south face to summit ridge. In mid-June I went to the East Peak of Pisco via Laguna 69 and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Oests, The Lord of the Towers, to Middle Summit
Chacraraju Oeste, The Lord of the Towers, to middle summit. On July 8 and 9 Marjan Kovac and I (both from Slovenia) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Hualcán Peak, 5,350m (Nevado Libron), East Ridge, and Huichganga, South Ridge
Hualcán Peak 5,350m (Nevado Libron), east ridge, and Huichganga, south ridge. On July 10 Dave Sykes and I (both British) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Hatun Ulloc, Karma de Los Condores
Hatun Ulloc, Karma de Los Condores. On August 29 Wayne Crill and I completed a new route on the previously unclimbed 350...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Oschapalca, New Route and Various Activity
Oschapalca, new route and various activity. After acclimatizing by guiding the Normal Route (PD) on Pisco (5,752m), the North Ridge (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Jangyaraju, South Face
Jangyaraju, south face. As part of a program for aspirant guides run by the Mountain Guide Association of Peru (AGMP), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huamashraju, Various Routes
Huamashraju, various routes. Huamashraju (a.k.a. Wamashraju 5,434m) is located southeast of Huaraz, just above the village of Janku. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Other Information
Cordillera Blanca, other information. New route activity was below normal in 2004, presumably because of atypical unsettled weather and conditions. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Siula Chico, A Scream of Silence, to Summit Ridge
Siula Chico, A Scream of Silence, to summit ridge. Our five-member Slovene expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash had plans for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Nevado Llongote, Lima-Limon
Nevado Llongote, Lima-Limon. The day after setting up base camp by Laguna Llongote in the Zona Yauyos, Guillermo Meija and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Various Ascents
Various ascents. Our expedition included Stanko Mihev, Franc and Janeta Pusnik, Samo Rupreht, Matjaz Prislan, Marko Anzelak, Igor Plesivcnik, Peter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Various Ascents
Various ascents. The Anglo-Scot- tish Vilcanota Expedition 2004 had as its primary objective the south face of Colque Cruz 1 (6,102m). Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Apolobamba, Cololo (5,915m); Chaupi Orco Northern Summit (6000m); Katantica Central (5,610m); New Routes and Repeats
Cololo (5,915m); Chaupi Orco northern summit (6,000m); Katantica Central (5,610m); new routes and repeats. During July resident French guide Alain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Overview and New Routes
Overview and new routes. During 2004 there were significantly fewer climbers in Bolivia than in previous years. Political instability may have ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, New Routes and Information
New routes and information. A six-member British expedition organized by Sarah Griffin visited the Gigante Grande Group in June and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Argentina, Various Ascents
Various ascents. In March Marcelo Brandán, Nicolás Pantaleón, and Angel Ireba made the second or third ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Argentina, Cerro Chepical, First Ascent and Cerro Fandango, Ascent
Cerro Chepical, first ascent and Cerro Fandango, ascent. In February 2005 Antonio Pontoriero and I erected a camp on the southwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Argentina, Cerro de la Aguada, Ascent and Historical Note
Cerro de la Aguada, ascent and historical note. A group of Argentinean climbers of the Club Andino Mar del Plata ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Argentina, Cerro El Cóndor, Addendum
Cerro El Cóndor, addendum. On p. 302 of the AAJ 2004, El Cóndor is mentioned in the title of Alexander ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Argentina, Ten Years of Exploration in the Puna de Atacama
Ten years of exploration in the Puna de Atacama. During the last decade, exploratory mountaineering has achieved importance in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Chile, Punta Italia, Direct West Face
Punta Italia, Direct West Face. This fine mountain had its first ascent in 1934 by Italians Gervasutti and Binaghi. Some routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Chile, North Tower of Rengo, Séptimo Arte
North Tower of Rengo, Séptimo Arte. In February 2005 Francisco Rojas, Dario Arancibia, and I opened a new route, using ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Torres del Brujo, El Condor
Torres del Brujo, El Condor. Elena Davila, Riccardo Redaelli, and I finally reached Santiago, Chile on December 20 after a long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Torres del Brujo, Aprendiz del Brujo, Grand Illusion, and Other Activity
The Torres del Brujo area is situated in the Chilean Andes, south of Santiago, in the massif of Cerro Portillo (4,850...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, 2004-2005 Season Overview
Aconcagua, 2004-2005 season overview. From December 15, 2004 to March 15, 2005 there were 6,490 visitors, less than the preceding year. There were fewer trekkers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Uruguayan Rugby Team Plane Crash of 1972, New Discovery
Uruguayan rugby team plane crash of 1972, new discovery. On February 12, 2005 Mario Perez (an Argentinean horse guide) and I made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cerro Trinidad, Velebit
Cerro Trinidad, Velebit. This route was fun, but not as hard as others in this region. Ivica Matkovic and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, San Lorenzo, First Winter Ascent
San Lorenzo, first winter ascent. In July Chilean andinistas Pablo Besser, Camilo Rada, and Manuel Bugueño completed the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Northern Patagonia, Lake District, Bariloche, Cerro Catedral
Lake District, Bariloche, Cerro Catedral. The granite spires around Refugio Frey in Cerro Catedral provide great rock climbing, with routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Season Overview
Season overview. The Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs saw a ferocious amount of activity this season, particularly during a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Torre, Quinque Anni ad Paradisum
Cerro Torre, Quinque Anni ad Paradisum. Italian climbers Alessandro Beltrami, Giacomo Rossetti, and Ermanno Salvaterra climbed a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Torre, Slovenian Start Variation, and Aguja Poincenot, Italian Route, First Integral Ascent
Cerro Torre, Slovenian Start variation, and Aguja Poincenot, Italian Route, first integral ascent. On January 17, 2005, our small team from Slovenia, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, Traverse
Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, traverse. I came to Patagonia this year with the primary goal of climbing Torre ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Historical Note: Regarding the 1980 Italian Route (De Dona-Giongo) on Egger
Historical Note: Regarding the 1980 Italian Route (De Dona-Giongo) on Egger, Huber writes, “I [cannot say] if they climbed it or ...
AAJ
Notes
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Torre Egger, Near Miss and monster fall
Torre Egger, near miss and monster fall. In early February, Jonny Copp, Josh Wharton, and I joined forces to climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Standhardt, Potter Route and Other Firsts
Cerro Standhardt, Potter Route and other firsts. I arrived in El Chalten on January 29 to meet Dean Potter, who had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, New Route Attempt
Fitz Roy, new route attempt. We made two trips to Patagonia to climb the Northwest Pillar of Fitz Roy. On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Canadian Route; Aguja Rafael Juarez, Comono; Other Firsts and New Variations
Fitz Roy, Canadian Route; Aguja Rafael Juarez, Comono; other firsts and new variations. There was excitement among the climbers at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Agujas Saint Exupery, Rafael Juarez, and Poincenot, Traverse
Agujas Saint Exupery, Rafael Juarez, and Poincenot, traverse. Beginning on February 18 Jonny Copp and I enchained Saint Exupery, Aguja Rafael ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre Massifs, Various Ascents
Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, various ascents. Between mid-January and early March a young team of Slovene climbers, including ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Hielo Continental, Cerro Dos Cuernos, First Ascent
Cerro Dos Cuernos, first ascent. The Cordon Mariano Moreno is a range located in the middle of the Southern Patagonia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Hielo Continental, Cerro Murallón, Attempt
Cerro Murallón, attempt. The following has been condensed from a press release provided by Glowacz’s publicist in response ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, North Tower of Paine, New Route
North Tower of Paine, new route. In February 2002 John Rzeczycki and I climbed a new route that went to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Paine Chico, Eol
Paine Chico, Eol. I first saw the west face of Paine Chico (also called Cerro Almirante Nieto’s west summit) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, South of Paine, Cerro Ladrillero, First Ascent
Cerro Ladrillero, first ascent. Patagonia is a land that challenges you to be patient, where waiting for the window is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Tierro del Fuego, Yorkminster Group, Exploration and Monte Vavel Attempt
In February Krzysztof Wielicki, Jacek Fluder, Wlodzimierz Szczesny, and I, after traveling for 80 hours from Poland, set up base camp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005