American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

469 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. 2004 was an astonishing year in the Coast Mountains, especially the Waddington Range. The new Waddington ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Southwest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) Summary
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. Although it was a great year for new routes in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Talchako, Northeast Ridge
Mt. Talchako, Northeast Ridge. In the last week of July, Fred Beckey (2003 Subaru), Drew Brayshaw (Chilliwack, B.C.), James Nakagami (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Waddington, Possible Variation and Bushwhack from the Sea
Mt. Waddington, possible variation and bushwhack from the sea. On July 28 Patrick Farrell and I began the approach to Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Combatant, The Incisor, The Smoke Show
Mt. Combatant, The Incisor, The Smoke Show. John Furneaux, Paul Bride, and I made base camp on a protected ledge 500 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stiletto, Drag Queen
Stiletto, Drag Queen. On July 26 Justin Cassels, Jonny Simms, and I started up a corner system on the Stiletto that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Judge Howay, North Face and Ski Descent
Mt. Judge Howay, north face and ski descent. At the beginning of March, Scott Murray (U.S.) and I climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Crumble Tower, When Hairy Met Scary; and Half Dome, Irregular Route
Crumble Tower, When Hairy Met Scary; and Half Dome, Irregular Route. On August 9 Graham Rowbotham (Canada) and I made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mt. MacDonald, Little Face, Prime Rib to Summit Ridge
Mt. MacDonald, Little Face, Prime Rib to summit ridge. Characterized by long, continuous rock ribs, numerous avalanche paths, frozen waterfalls ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Various Free Ascents
Various free ascents. In July and August Nick Martino, Cedar Wright, and I freed two unrepeated aid lines on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Lost Feather Pinnacle, Back at Bob's
Lost Feather Pinnacle, Back at Bob's. From August 11-20 Duncan Burke and I enjoyed excellent weather and conditions in Bugaboo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Summary
Canadian Rockies, summary. The big news of the summer of 2004 in the Canadian Rockies was a visit in July by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Belanger, King's Couloir
Mt. Belanger, King's Couloir. Dave Marra and I were tossing back a few pints of Canada’s finest at the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Alberta, Japanese Route
Mt. Alberta, Japanese Route, first winter ascent. Ever since first scampering across Mt. Alberta’s (3,619m) precipitous summit ridge, I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Amery, Aurora
Mt. Amery, Aurora. Mt. Amery (3,329m) is not the first mountain you notice while driving up the Icefields Parkway. But ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Wilson, Rivers of Babylon
Mt. Wilson, Rivers of Babylon. On November 26 and 27 Paul McSorley and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on Mt. Wilson, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Assiniboine, Cheesmond-Dick second ascent solo, and various ascents
Mt. Assiniboine, Cheesmond-Dick second ascent solo, and various ascents. In July I traveled for the third time to Canada. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, North of Scorsbysund, Liverpool Land Exploratory Ski-Mountaineering
North of Scorsbysund, Liverpool Land exploratory ski-moun- taineering. We aimed to investigate the ski potential of the coastal peaks of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Knud Rasmussens Land, First Ascents
Knud Rasmussens Land, first ascents. Four British climbers, Geoff Bonney, Rosie Goolden, Mark Humpherys, and I, made nine first ascents ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Watkins Mountains, Two Possible First Ascents Close to Gunnsbjorns Fjeld
Watkins Mountains, two possible first ascents close to Gunnsbjorns Fjeld. Named by the Vikings “Hvitserk” or “White Shirt,” Gunnbjørns ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Greenland, East Greenland, Watkins Mountains, First Ascents from the Fleece Glacier
Watkins Mountains, first ascents from the Fleece Glacier. Toward the end of May a British expedition comprising Jim Hall, Bob ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Mikis Fjord, Ascent of Red Peak
Mikis Fjord, ascent of Red Peak. Hoping to find anchorage in Kangerdlussuaq Fjord, which would give access to the Lemon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Schweizerland, Tupilak North Face, Lessons in Humility
Schweizerland, Tupilak north face, Lessons in Humility. Before we left, Al Powell, the ultimate expert on East Greenland, told us: “...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Lindenows Fjord, Apostelens Tommelfinger, Attempt on a New Route
Lindenows Fjord, Apostelens Tommelfinger, attempt on a new route. In 2003 German climbers, Steffen Laetsch, Jens and Michael Richter, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, First Ascent, Freedom Pillar Route
Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, first ascent, Freedom Pillar route. “In the footsteps of Vikings” (Mark ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Quvernit Island, Sever Virgin Summits and Nine New Long Granite Routes
Quvernit Island, seven virgin summits and nine new long granite routes. At the end of July a seven-member-strong group from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North American, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Pamiagdluk Island, New Routes on the Baron and Baronet
Pamiagdluk Island, new routes on the Baron and Baronet. Ross Cowie and Tim Marsh (UK) with Ronan Browner and Donie ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Pamiagdluk Island, New Routes on the Baron and Baronet
Pamiagdluk Island, new routes on the Baron and Baronet. About two weeks after the Anglo-Irish team mentioned above, a seven-member ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Pamiagdluk Island, Kangerdluarssuk Fjord, Baron and Other Peaks, New Routes, Exploring, and Mapmaking
Pamiagdluk Island, Kangerdluarssuk Fjord, Baron and other peaks, new routes, exploring, and mapmaking. On July 8, 12 members of the Karabiner Mountaineering ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Pamiagdluk East, First Ascents and Repeats
Pamiagdluk East, first ascents and repeats. During two weeks of perfect weather in the second half of August Daniela and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Tasermiut Fjord, Ketil Pyramid, New Route
Tasermiut Fjord, Ketil Pyramid, new route. I arrived in the area at the end of July, hoping to be the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, Cape Farwell Region, Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Prowed and Free; Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, Speed Ascent
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Prowed and Free; Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, speed ascent. On July 2 Nathan Martin and I started our 34-day ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America,Greenland, Cape Farwell Region, Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq and Ketil, First Ascents
Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq and Ketil, first ascents. Eight young French climbers on their first expedition were in the area from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, West Greenland, Nutarmuit Island, Ullukkut
Nutarmuit Island, Ullukkut. Originally I had wanted to climb a formation on Qaersorssuaq Island, however on the July boat ride ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Greenland, West Greenland, West Coast, Various First Ascents
West Coast, various first ascents. The 10m fiberglass yacht Dodo’s Delight, skippered by Bob Shepton again visited the West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, The Muñeca, La Muñequita
The Muñeca, La Muñequita. This 5,000' peak, 30 miles west of the Potrero Chico, was previously unclimbed because of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, El Potrero Chico, Feral Dover Ridge and Monster Truck
El Potrero Chico, Feral Dover Ridge and Monster Truck. Feral Dover Ridge (15 pitches, 5. 10dX, Cindy Tolle and I, September) starts ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, El Potrero Chico, Battle Royale
El Potrero Chico, Battle Royale. Going to Mexico was perhaps the best decision I ever made. It is a land ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, Cerro Picachos, Various New Routes
Cerro Picachos, various new routes. This granite area off Hwy 85, 50 miles north of Monterrey, is as beautiful as it is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, El Pico Erin, Xiuhtecuhtli
El Pico Erin, Xiuhtecuhtli. Xiuhtecuhtli is named for the God of Fire of the Nahuatl Cultures. The route, located in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Caraz II, Australian Route and Salida Directa de Los Gordos
Caraz II, Australian Route and Salida Directa de Los Gordos. Early season snowfalls in the Cordillera Blanca created unstable conditions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Parón, Bartonellosis to Summit Mushroom
Parón, Bartonellosis to summit mushroom. Owen Samuel, Mike Pescod, Tony Barton, and I set off up the Santa Cruz ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, La Esfinge, Killa Quillay and Variation
La Esfinge, Killa Quillay and variation. From July 24-31, Spanish climbers Ángel Olmos, Antonio L. Liria, and José M. Cancho ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Yanawaca, Attempt
Yanawaca, attempt. Last May two Mexican friends, Carlos Bazua Morales and Emiliano Villanueva Rabotnikof, and I traveled to the Cordillera ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco Este, South Face to Summit Ridge
Pisco Este, south face to summit ridge. In mid-June I went to the East Peak of Pisco via Laguna 69 and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Oests, The Lord of the Towers, to Middle Summit
Chacraraju Oeste, The Lord of the Towers, to middle summit. On July 8 and 9 Marjan Kovac and I (both from Slovenia) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Hualcán Peak, 5,350m (Nevado Libron), East Ridge, and Huichganga, South Ridge
Hualcán Peak 5,350m (Nevado Libron), east ridge, and Huichganga, south ridge. On July 10 Dave Sykes and I (both British) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Hatun Ulloc, Karma de Los Condores
Hatun Ulloc, Karma de Los Condores. On August 29 Wayne Crill and I completed a new route on the previously unclimbed 350...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Oschapalca, New Route and Various Activity
Oschapalca, new route and various activity. After acclimatizing by guiding the Normal Route (PD) on Pisco (5,752m), the North Ridge (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Jangyaraju, South Face
Jangyaraju, south face. As part of a program for aspirant guides run by the Mountain Guide Association of Peru (AGMP), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005