American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

469 Records

Title Publication Year
Preface
“Alpinism is an art of survival,” wrote Marko Prezelj, of Slovenia. “When it comes down to the question of life ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2005
Suffer Well
A faint reminder of words written a couple days earlier crept across my subconscious as our only fuel canister sputtered ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Arctic Rage
"Ben come out quick! You’re missing sun hour!” Kevin’s voice was muffled, as I was down in the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Karakoram Summer
Karakoram Summer A prolific month of new~routing in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. Steve House September 2003, Hushe village, Baltistan As ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
K7 Alpine Style
K7 Alpine Style The Karakoram Summer continues with a rapid second ascent of a 20~year~old route that originally took 40 ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
The Direct Rupal Face
The Direct Rupal Face Going broomless on Nanga Parbat’s 4,000~meter Rupal Face, Pakistan. Bruce Miller Steve House and I ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Mazeno Ridge
Mazeno Ridge Nanga Parbat’s 10~kilometer ridge caps a multi~peak Pakistan Summer, albeit without an 8,000m summit. Doug Chabot ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
The North Face of Jannu
Just two days after arriving at Jannu Base Camp on April 5, Alex Bolotov, Sergey Borisov, and Gennady Kirievsky began to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
My Path to Paradise
My Path to Paradise Finally, a direct route on Cerro Torre’s east face. Ermanno Salvaterra I clip another copperhead, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Dihedral Perspectives
Dihedral Perspectives Lessons learned during my first decade of free climbing on El Capitan. Tommy Caldwell I really had no ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
The Incredible Hulk
The Incredible Hulk Hitting the jackpot in the High Sierra, California Peter Croft At three in the morning I couldn’...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Free Hallucinations
Free Hallucinations Defining a new game: "free aid” on the Hallucinogen Wall, in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Going Manless, Looking Back, Forward, and Inward
Going Manless Looking back, forward, and inward 75 years after Miriam O’Brien Underbill’s milestone all-female ascent of the Gré...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
A Woman's Place is On Top
A Woman’s Place is On Top Selected highlights in womens alpinism. Molly Loomis 1808: 18-year-old Marie Paradis (France) becomes the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Under the Weather
Under the Weather Why is Scotland such a good training ground for much higher mountains? Perhaps because an average winter ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Kenya's Rocks
Kenya’s Rocks Welcome to the remote crags of Kenya, where adventure rules. Alex Fiksman It’s easy to fall ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
The Ndoto Mountains
The Ndoto Mountains There is a lot more to the Ndotos than the great Poi. Welcome to the lesser~known ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
The Maximum Miracle Centre
The Maximum Miracle Centre In Kenya’s Ndoto Mountains, it’s not the climbing you’ll be telling stories about, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Ndoto Logistics
Ndoto Logistics Advice to climbers headed for the Ngurunit Valley and beyond. Marnix Buonajuti The major cliffs vary in their ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
The Nithi Gorge
The Nithi Gorge On the flanks of Mt. Kenya, just above the heather and chaparral vegetation zone, climbers walk right ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
The Temple
The Temple Worshipping at Mt. Kenya’s feet, the Nithi Gorge. Alexander Jakubowski Flicking through a back issue of High ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
Hell's Gate
Hell’s Gate Near Kenyas largest city, huge hexagonal columns provide lonely jamming and loads of potential Alex Fiksman Rising ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Sawtooth Ridge, Complete Traverse
Olympic National Park Sawtooth Ridge, complete traverse. From August 7 to 9 Wayne Wallace and I made the first full traverse of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Summary of Activity
Washington, summary of activity. [Note: this summary supplements individual reports, mostly of bigger routes, below—Ed.] Previously unreported were two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Challenger, Cascade Range, Poltergeist Pinnacle, East Face
Mt. Challenger, Poltergeist Pinnacle, East Face. On July 3 Dan Aylward and I hiked to Perfect Pass via Hannegan Pass/Easy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Burgundy Spire, Action Potential with Variants, and Ultramega OK
Burgundy Spire, Action Potential with variants, and Ultramega OK. On July 19, after an evening bacchanal at the Winthrop Pub, Mike ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Chiwawa Mountain, Intravenous
Chiwawa Mountain, Intravenous. Inspired by John Scurlock’s photos of the northwest face, Dave Burdick and I snowmobiled and skied ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Stuart, Complete North Ridge, First Winter Ascent
Mt. Stuart, Complete North Ridge, first winter ascent. Four bluebird days and stellar conditions in February 2005 allowed Colin Haley (20) and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Summit of Chief Mountain, North Face
Summit Chief Mountain, north face. On April 18 Colin Haley and I climbed a new snow and ice route (IV AI3) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Summit Chief Mountain, Alpine Chicken
Summit Chief Mountain, Alpine Chicken. Alpine ice climbing in Washington is so suck. From time to time, however, the weather ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Snoqualmie, Pineapple Express
Mt. Snoqualmie, Pineapple Express. On my third attempt this year, Roger Strong and I climbed the line of corners tracing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, various activity. Big wall free-climbing in Yosemite hasn’t lost its appeal, and many impressive ascents were achieved ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Dihedral Wall Free Ascent
El Capitan, Dihedral Wall free ascent. In May, adding to his phenomenal list of El Capitan free routes, Tommy Caldwell ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Yosemite National Park, Hetch Hetchy Dome, Resurrection and In Memoriam
Hetch Hetchy Dome, Resurrection and In Memoriam. Hetch Hctchy is the next canyon northwest of Yosemite Valley. From Tuolumne Meadows, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Incredible Hulk, Free Routes
The Incredible Hulk, free routes. On July 3, Peter Croft, Dave Nettle, and Greg Epperson established Airstream (V 5.13), considered the most ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Palisade Traverse, Second Continuous Ascent
Palisade Traverse, second continuous ascent. Our climb consisted of a complete traverse of the Sierra Crest from Southfork Pass to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Birch Mountain, Bardini Route
Birch Mountain, Bardini Route. This climb is hidden in plain sight. You can study the north face of Birch Mountain (13,665...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Birch Mountain, North Ridge, Attempt
Birch Mountain, north ridge, attempt. In the summer, Seth Dilles and I were back again to do the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Whitney, If at First....
Mt. Whitney, If at First.… We began this route on the east face of Mt. Whitney in 1999, with 14-year-old Scott ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, Pathways Through to Space
Lone Pine Peak, Pathways Through to Space. V 5.10 Al. First ascent August 1, by Stephen Quale and Scotty Nelson. This route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, The Streets of the Mountains
Lone Pine Peak, The Streets of the Mountains. IV 5.10 A0. First ascent September 4-6, by Miguel Carmona and Joe LeMay. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Arizona, Vermilion Cliffs, Various Activity
Vermilion Cliffs, various activity. For the past five years Albert Newman of Flagstaff, with a dozen partners, including Jeff Kennedy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, various activity. Many new routes were established in the Moab area by Joe Slansky, and in the Castle ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion, Various Ascents
Zion, various ascents. On the southeast face of West Temple, from March 19-21, Bryan Bird, Brody and Jared Greer, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Angel's Landing, Lowe Route, First Free Ascent with Variations
Angel’s Landing, Lowe Route, first free ascent with variations. After a successful spring trip to Yosemite, I resolved to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Spearhead Mountain, Midevil Wall
Spearhead Mountain, Midevil Wall. From March 22-25 Ammon McNeely and I established Midevil Wall (V 5.9 A3+) over three days. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, The Watchman, Cradle to Grave
The Watchman, Cradle to Grave. In May Dave Jones and I climbed a new 10-pitch route on the northwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
Rocky Mountain National Park, Summary
The RMNP summer alpine season was limited by exceptionally wet weather for Colorado. Although Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountains, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Hallucinogen Wall, Dry-Tool Free Ascent
Hallucinogen Wall, dry-tool free ascent. In May Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden made a hybrid free-aid ascent of the daunting ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountains, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Charm School Boutique, Repeat
Charm School Boutique, repeat. Between The Journey Home and The Cruise on North Chasm View Wall, Jeff Achey found an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2005