American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 11,520', North Face to Summit Ridge
Peak 11,520', north face to summit ridge. A new route was climbed by Marty Beare and me on May 14 and 15 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Dickey, Northeast Face Ice
Mt. Dickey, northeast face ice. Flying into the Ruth Gorge, I caught sight of an obvious drip of ice on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Eye Tooth, The Talkeetna Standard; Mt. Dickey, Roberts-Rowell-Ward Route, Second Ascent
Eye Tooth, The Talkeetna Standard; Mt. Dickey, Roberts-Rowell-Ward route, second ascent. Steve House and I were flown to the Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, London BRidge, Miss Keli, and Various Activity
London Bridge, Miss Keli, and various activity. We (Iwan Wolf, Urs Stöcker, Markus Stofer, Bruno Hasler) took advantage of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, London BRidge, On the Frozen Roads of Our Incertitudes, and Various Repeats
London Bridge, On the Frozen Roads of Our Incertitudes, and various repeats. P.J. from Doug Geeting Aviation dropped Jerome ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, East Ridge, Attempt
Mt. Bradley, East Ridge, attempt. Jay Rowe and I went into the Ruth Gorge during the last week in June 2002. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, North Ridge Variation
Kichatna Spire, North Ridge variation. On June 6 Eddie Phay, Jed Brown, and I had Paul Roderick fly us onto the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, The Citadel, Last Cry of the Butterfly
The Citadel, Last Cry of the Butterfly. Marcin Tomaszewski, David Kaszlikowski, and I, supported by the Polish Climbing Association (PZA), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, The Citadel, Supa Dupa Couloir
The Citadel, Supa Dupa Couloir. While climbing Off the Wall Madness in 2002, Twid Turner and I were amazed by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains, Mt. Gerdine, Northwest Ridge and Various Activity
Mt. Gerdine, Northwest Ridge and various activity. On April 4 Johnny Soderstrom, Zach Shlosar, and I flew in with Paul Roderick ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains, Hayes Glacier, Various Ascents
Hayes Glacier, various ascents. From April 30 to May 15 Uwe Nootbaar, Thomas Speck, and I made four first ascents on unclimbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains, Nagishlamina, East Ridge
Nagishlamina, East Ridge. In May Brad Gessner, Doug Munoz, Stuart Parks, and I, all of Anchorage, completed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Winter Traverse of the Range; Mt. Marcus Baker, South Ridge-Knik Variation
Winter traverse of the range; Mt. Marcus Baker, South Ridge-Knik variation. During the summer of 2003 we started talking about a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Marcus Baker, Attempt via Pi Ridge
Mt. Marcus Baker, attempt via Pi Ridge. In a Whittier, Alaska, warehouse of dry-docked boats we studied maps and photos ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell Mountains, Peaks 10,478', 9,900', and 10,088'
Peaks 10,478', 9,900', and 10,088'. From May 8 to 17, James Dietzmann, Paul Templeton, and I did three possible first ascents of 10,000...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Saint Elias Mountains, Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park, Mt. Gunnar Naslund, Uncle Gunny's Weight-Loss Program; Mt. Huxley, First Ascent
Mt. Gunnar Naslund, Uncle Gunny's Weight-Loss Program; Mt. Huxley, first ascent. On April 22 Carlos Buhler and I were flown onto ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States and Canada, Good Neighbor Peak, Southeast Ridge and Clarification; Mt. Vancouver, St. Elias Range, Alaska and Canada
Good Neighbor Peak, southeast ridge and clarification; Mt. Vancouver, St. Elias Range, Alaska and Canada. Paul Barry and I climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Alpine Club of Canada
Mount Vancouver (15,787') and Good Neighbor Peak (15,700') complete climbing history. All climbs are described in the following year’s ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. Foresta, East Ridge to North Peak and Altitude Note
Mt. Foresta, East Ridge to north peak and altitude note. On May 3, Erik Monasterio and I landed at 4,040' on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Various Ascents and Attempts
Various ascents and attempts. In May 2002 Tim Connelly and I guided an American Alpine Institute group in the St. Elias ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mountaineering Summary and Statistics
Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. During 2003 in Kluane National Park Reserve, 140 persons participated in 42 mountaineering expeditions. This ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Alpine Club of Canada
Latus Pass Arm, various ascents and attempts. There are four main tributaries on the south side of Kaskawulsh Glacier: South ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2004
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Mt. Asgard, East Face of South Tower
Mt. Asgard, east face of South Tower. In July I soloed a new route on the 2,000' east face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Icefield Traverse and Peak 1,850m, Southwest Ridge
From April 14 to May 5 Louise Jarry, Vicki Sahanatien, Doug Stern, Vivian Wasiuta, and I made a ski traverse of an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Vampire Spires, Phoenix, Wallflowers to Near Summit
Phoenix, Wallflowers to near summit. On June 30 a tiny Hughes 500 helicopter dropped Amelia Patterson and me at the base of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Vampire Spires, Fortress, You Enjoy Myself
Fortress, You Enjoy Myself. On a rainy July 20 Pat Goodman and I, with financial support from a Balance Bar Grant, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Unnamed Spire, Attempt
Unnamed spire, attempt. Bryan Palminiter and I attempted a new line on an unnamed spire to the right of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Cirque of the Unclimbables, East Huey Spire, Don't Panic It's Organic
East Huey Spire, Don't Panic It’s Organic. Scott Hollander and I climbed a new route on East Huey this ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Cirque of the Unclimbables, East Huey Spire, Riders on the Storm
East Huey Spire, Riders on the Storm. In July, after five days of travel from Colorado, Evan Stevens and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. It was a reasonable summer in the remote sections of the Coast Mountains, but not ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Southwest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mounatins and Canadian Cascades) Summary
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. For a variety of reasons 2003 was not as busy as 2002. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Greyskull Valley
Greyskull Valley. The Greyskull Valley Expedition included Laura Schmonsees, Trevor Deighton, Andy Rich, and myself. The expedition spent 23 days in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Princess Mountain, Northeast Buttress
Princess Mountain, Northeast Buttress. Fred Beckey planned our gathering, and we flew into the Monarch Icefield in early August. Matt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Mt. Blackhorn, Northwest Couloir
Mt. Blackhorn, Northwest Couloir. On September 27 I made what I believe was the first ascent of Blackhorn Mountain’s Northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Northern Selkirk Mountains, Adamant Group, Colossal, Flight of the Prototype; Pole Dance Tower, First Ascent
Geographical note: The Adamant Group, sometimes mistakenly called the Adamant Range or Mountains, is a subgroup of the Northern Selkirks. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Northern Selkirk Mountains, Adamant Group, The Horn, West Buttress
The Horn, West Buttress. On July 31 and August 1, during a spell of perfect weather, Rodger DeBeyer and I climbed a 22...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, South Howser Tower, Catalonian Route, First Free Ascent
South Howser Tower, Catalonian Route, first free ascent. There we were, back in the Bugaboos, in August, on another blue-sky ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, South Howser Tower, Soul Cinders; East Pigeon Feather Peak, Ride the Snafflehound; Other Activity
South Howser Tower, Soul Cinders; East Pigeon Feather Peak, Ride the Snafflehound; other activity. During an amazing high pressure system ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Wide Awake Tower, Wild Fire
Wide Awake Tower, Wild Fire. Being a Canadian Rockies climber bred on shattered limestone and blocky quartzite, I spent the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Summary
Canadian Rockies, summary. Ironically, the first significant ascent of the summer of 2003 was an alpine ice climb. These are, after ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, North Twin, North Face, House-Prezelj
North Twin, north face, House-Prezelj. In early April 2004 American Steve House and Slovenian Marko Prezelj made the third ascent (Lowe-Jones, 1974; ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Kitchener, Rights of Passage, Second Ascent
Mt. Kitchener, Rights of Passage, second ascent. The welcoming heat of late June had us on the Icefields Parkway to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Snow Dome, For Feathers to Serac Base
Snow Dome, For Fathers to serac base. This route is an obvious line, 600m to climber’s right of Slipstream (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Temple North Face, Winter Ascents of Greenwood-Locke and Robinson-Orvig a.k.a. Sphynx Face
Mt. Temple north face, winter ascents of Greenwood-Locke and Robinson-Orvig a.k.a. Sphynx Face. “It is impossible to say ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Stephen, Great Western
Mt. Stephen, Great Western. Great Western lies on the north face of Mt. Stephen (3,199m) in Yoho National Park, by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Inflexible, East Face Funfun
Mt. Inflexible, East Face Funfun. David Marra invited me on a secret mission on December 7, 2002. All I knew was that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Canada, Quebec, Cran des Érables, Hot Salami and Winter Potential
Cran des Érables, Hot Salami and winter potential. At the end of December, Frédéric Maltais and I climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, Greenland, The Far North, Jensenland, Explorations of Most Northerly Land
Jensenland, explorations of most northerly land. This was the seventh in a series of joint European and American expeditions to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Jensenland, Historical Timeline of the Search for the Northernmost Point of Land on Earth
Jensenland, historical timeline of the search for the northernmost point of land on Earth. Based on the results from the 1996 ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
North America, East Greenland, Staunings Alps, Dansketinde, First Ascents of South and Southwest Ridges
Staunings Alps, Dansketinde, first ascents of south and southwest ridges. On July 15, Hamish Irvine, Colwyn Jones (Medical Officer), Jonathan Preston, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004