American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
Rappel Failure—Inadequate Anchor, Alaska, Moose's Tooth, Shaken Not Stirred
RAPPEL FAILURE–INADEQUATE ANCHOR Alaska, Moose's Tooth, Shaken Not Stirred In the early morning of May 1, around 0200, Kevin Cooper and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
HAPE—Ascended Too Fast, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HAPE—ASCENDED TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 4, an Austrian party called Team Outback departed Talkeetna, for ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Frostbite, AMS, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FROSTBITE, AMS Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress In the early morning of May 14, the team New River George contacted NPS ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Illness—Colitis, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
ILLNESS–COLITIS Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress At 1825 on May 19, Christopher Allewell (age unknown) was assisted into the 14,200-foot NPS ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Dehydration, Unable to Get to Mittens—Frostbite, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib
DEHYDRATION, UNABLE TO GET TO MITTENS–FROSTBITE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib On May 3rd, the three-member expedition, Rocky Mountain ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Ankle Injury and HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
ANKLE INJURY AND HAPE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress This summary is comprised of two separate incidents that ended up ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Strained Back, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
STRAINED BACK Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On the afternoon of June 2, an RMI guided group was ascending below the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Snow—Inadequate Protection, Haste, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW–INADEQUATE PROTECTION, HASTE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress This incident happened in May while we were descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Knee Injury, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
KNEE INJURY, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 30, the two members of the Sled Dog expedition, Matt Sachs (34) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HAPE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On June 1, Peter Staples (48) of the “OSAT,03” expedition, suffered from High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Dehydration—Exhaustion, Minor Frostbite, Climbing Too Slowly—Failure to Turn Back, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Messner Couloir
DEHYDRATION–EXHAUSTION, MINOR FROSTBITE, CLIMBING TOO SLOWLY-FAILURE TO TURN BACK Alaska, Mount McKinley, Messner Couloir At 0500 on June 3, Jan Markup (27), ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Dental-Laceration and Bicuspid Fracture, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
DENTAL-LACERATION AND BICUSPID FRACTURE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On June 5th, RMI guide Brent Okita brought a 17-year-old client ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
HACE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HACE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress At 1115 on June 13, Frank Brettholle (51), a member of the “Beer Run” expedition, was found ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Inexperience—Party Separated and Unroped, Dehydration—Exhaustion, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
INEXPERIENCE–PARTY SEPARATED AND UNROPED, DEHYDRATION- EXHAUSTION Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Just before 0600 on the morning of June 8, Alexey ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Abandonment—Creating a Hazard, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
ABANDONMENT–CREATING A HAZARD Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Joseph Klopack (51) and his 15-year-old son Joseph, Jr. checked into the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock—Rappel Technique, Arizona, Windy Point
FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL TECHNIQUE Arizona, Windy Point On August 31, Joaquin Fox (38) was climbing with several other people in the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock—Protection Failed, Inadequate Protection, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan
FALL ON ROCK–PROTECTION FAILED, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan On May 4, Cam McKenzie (26) and I, Scott Ring (25), ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, Lower Cathedral Rock
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, Lower Cathedral Rock On May 21, Chris Hampson (2 8) and Sibylle ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress
FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress On May 23, Irene Appelbaum (41) and Ricardo Lagos (28) climbed the Nutcracker (five ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock—Inappropriate Descent Technique, Off Route, Exceeding Abilities, California, Yosemite National Park, Tenaya Canyon
FALL ON ROCK–INAPPROPRIATE DESCENT TECHNIQUE, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Yosemite National Park, Tenaya Canyon On the morning of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Rappel Anchor Failed, California, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral Peak
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILED California, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral Peak On July 2, Aaron (28), Mark (48), Chad (28), and Brian (49) started ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Stranded—Off Route, Weather, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Exceeding Abilities, California, Tuolumne Meadows, Fairview Dome
STRANDED–OFF ROUTE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Tuolumne Meadows, Fairview Dome On July 27, Randy Popkin (46) and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Weather, California, Tuolumne Meadows, Daff Dome
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER California, Tuolumne Meadows, Daff Dome On July 29, Hope Wolf (28), an instructor for the Yosemite Mountaineering School, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock—Dislodged Rock, Off Route, Fatigue, California, Sierra Nevada, Clyde Minaret
FALL ON ROCK–DISLODGED ROCK, OFF ROUTE, FATIGUE California, Sierra Nevada, Clyde Minaret On Saturday, August 16th, Justin Schwartz of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inexperience, California, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside Bench, Jam Crack
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INEXPERIENCE California, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside Bench, Jam Crack On September 11, Kristen Shive (26) was attempting ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Anchor, Inadequate Communication, California, Yosemite Valley, Ranger Rock
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE ANCHOR, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION California, Yosemite Valley, Ranger Rock On the morning of September 11, E (25), N (27), and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Dehydration—Inadequate Water, Weather, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan
DEHYDRATION–INADEQUATE WATER, WEATHER California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan On September 22, Mark Gunlogson (41) and I, Micha Miller (41), started up New ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Ice—No Belay, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Dana
FALL ON ICE–NO BELAY California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Dana On October 12, my wife, Ann (28) and I, Pedro Frigola (28), attempted ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection/Belay, California, Tahquitz Rock, The Step
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION/BELAY California, Tahquitz Rock, The Step On October 19, we believe that David Kellogg (32) and Kelly ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, California, Temple Crag, Venusian Blind Arête
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Temple Crag, Venusian Blind Arête Linnea Erickson (age 22) had told a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Various Falls, Overdue, Lost, and Two Medical Emergiences, California, Mount Shasta
VARIOUS FALLS, OVERDUE, LOST, AND TWO MEDICAL EMERGENCIES California, Mount Shasta With above normal snowpack, climbing conditions remained fairly good ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Falling Rock—Dislodged, Colorado, Boulder Creek Canyon
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED Colorado, Boulder Creek Canyon On July 16, Emergency squads rescued a man who was pinned on the bank ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Protection Came Out, Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Cobb Rock
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION CAME OUT Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Cobb Rock A 20-year-old Air Force Academy cadet fell about 65 feet ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock—Dislodged Rock, Weather, Colorado, Snowmass Mountain
FALL ON ROCK-DISLODGED ROCK, WEATHER Colorado, Snowmass Mountain They’d waited a year to take another stab at summiting Snowmass ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inexperienced, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Calypso
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCED Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Calypso On September 5, a climber (44) who was the third ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Falling Rock—Dislodged, Colorado, McCurdy State Park, Blockbuster
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED Colorado, McCurdy State Park, Blockbuster My partner was injured while climbing a route near “Blockbuster” on September 9. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Montana, Beartooth Wilderness, Silver Run Peak
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Montana, Beartooth Wilderness, Silver Run Peak On August 24, around 0600, my wife, Rebecca Hodgkin, and I left ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error, No Belay or Backup, Inexperience
On March 15, Russell Page (22) was participating in a rappel training exercise near one of the access gullies, west of the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Avalanche, New Hampshire, Canon Mountain, Black Dike
AVALANCHE New Hampshire, Canon Mountain, Black Dike Two climbers were up to attempt the Black Dike in the beginning of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, New Hampshire, Saco Crag, Roadside Attraction
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION New Hampshire, Saco Crag, Roadside Attraction On Saturday, May 31, a first-season leader and his partner ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, Recompense
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, Recompense In October, on the third pitch of Recompense, my partner, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Various Falls on Rock (17), Rappel Errors (5), Inadequate Belays (5), Inadequate Protection (5), Protection Pulled (2), Dislodged Rocks (2), New York, Shawangunks
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK (17), RAPPEL ERRORS (5), INADEQUATE BELAYS (5), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (5), PROTECTION PULLED (2), DISLODGED ROCKS (2) New York, Shawangunks There were 24 accidents ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Stranded, Weather, Inadequate Equipment—No Stove, Oregon, Mount Hood, Reid Glacier Headwall
STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–NO STOVE Oregon, Mount Hood, Reid Glacier Headwall This incident involved a climbing team that was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock—Climber Lowered off End of Rope by Belayer, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Magic Light
FALL ON ROCK–CLIMBER LOWERED OFF END OF ROPE BY BELAYER Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Magic Light On February 21, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Party Separated, Oregon, North Sister
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED Oregon, North Sister Dr. Bruce Shively (55) slipped on the steep friable volcanic rock slopes below ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Middle Sister
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED Oregon, Middle Sister On August 15, Trent Gabel (16) fell to his death, most likely from dislodging ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Falling Rocks, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm Mountain
FALLING ROCKS Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm Mountain On February 17th, Kris (27) was hit by spontaneous rockfall while practicing solo ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest During Voluntary Glissade, Poor Position, Weather, Washington, Mount Rainier National Park, Mount Ruth
FALL ON SNOW–UNABLE TO SELF–ARREST DURING VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER Washington, Mount Rainier National Park, Mount Ruth ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Inadequate Protection, Washington, Cascades, Chimney Rock
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Washington, Cascades, Chimney Rock On July 6, on the sixth pitch of the East Face ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error (No Back-Up), and Dislodged Rocks
On September 22, William Tharpe (28) died in a rappelling accident on Snow Creek Wall near Leavenworth, Washington. Tharpe and his partner, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2004