American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, East Fuller Butte, Walking with Walt
East Fuller Butte, Walking with Walt. After three false starts over 18 months, two due to 110°+ summer temperatures and one due ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Obelisk, Far Out and Other New Routes
The Obelisk, Far Out and other new routes. Lucho Rivera and I enjoyed several summer adventures in the rock-climbing wonderland ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Mt. Tyndall, East-Facing Grave
On August 25, 2002, Becka Bracy and I intended to do the 5.8 East Chimney as a date climb. A date climb is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Arizona, Grand Canyon, Clay Tank Castle, First Ascent
Grand Canyon, Clay Tank Castle, first ascent. Andy Martin, while searching topo maps for high points, discovered that the second ...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, various activity. In 2003 Paul Ross and partners added 23 multipitch routes in the southwest desert, 18 of which were on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, The Three Gargoyles
The Three Gargoyles. This new tower route in Arches National Park is on the same formation as Zenyatta Endrada, around ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, Arch Canyon, Mud Shark, How Big a Boy are You; and The Fortress, The Poop Chute
Arch Canyon, Mud Shark, How Big a Boy are You; and The Fortress, The Poop Chute. Arch Canyon, one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Great White Throne, New Route
Great White Throne, new route. In mid-November, my brother Jonathan Smoot and I climbed a moderate new seven-pitch route up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Zion: New Routes and Speed Ascents
I was fortunate in 2003 to have good partners and lots of climbing time in Zion N.P. My season started ...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Rapid Ascents and Enchainments
Rocky Mountain National Park, rapid ascents and enchainments. On the Diamond of Long’s Peak in early July, Tommy Caldwell ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Cheap Hooker
Cheap Hooker. The Black Canyon hosts some of the country’s most adventurous rock climbs and is notorious for epics, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Woke Up Punk
Woke Up Punk. Zack Smith and I climbed a new 10-pitch route in the Black Canyon in the fall. Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Wishmaker, First Free Ascent
Wishmaker, first free ascent. In September Topher Donahue and I masde the first free ascent onsight of Wishmaker (IV 5.11+R [5.10...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Hallucinogen Wall, Free Attempt
Hallucinogen Wall, free attempt. In September and October I tried to free climb this route twice. On the first attempt, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall Free
Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall free. In spring 2003 Allan Porter and I completed a new line on North Chasm ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Grand Teton National Park, Ice Conditions
Ice conditions. The most-classic ice routes of Grand Teton National Park melted out for the second year in a row. ...
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Notes
2004
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Traverse, First Winter Ascent
Grand Traverse, first winter ascent. On January 24, 2004, after more than three weeks of unseasonably dry and warm weather, two parties ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, The Golden Pillar, and Other New Teton Free Climbs
Grand Teton, The Golden Pillar and other new Teton free climbs. On July 11 Hans Johnstone and I opened a classic, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Wyoming, South Fork of Shoshone River, Needle Mountain, North Face
Needle Mountain, north face. To climb the north face of Needle Mountain (12,106') has long been a goal of mine. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Idaho, Old Hyndman Peak, Bear/Chicken Variation
Old Hyndman Peak, Bear/Chicken Variation. Brian Wood and I set out in early October 2000 to explore the northeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Idaho, Peak 11, 308', White Line Couloir
Peak 11, 308', White Line Couloir. In May, Travis Michaelis, Abe Dickerson, and I made the first complete ascent of the 1,200...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Borah Peak, Psycho Therapy
On September 18, following the first major snow of the year, Brian Wood and I established Psycho Therapy (1,200', 5.9+ M6 AI4) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Idaho, Bell Mountain, Hell's Bells
Bell Mountain, Hell's Bells. Brian Wood and I took advantage of a cold spell in early June, 2002, to establish Hell’...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Montana, Mt. Brown, Mile of Smiles
Mt. Brown, Mile of Smiles. The gullies on the lower northwest face of Mt. Brown (8,365'), in Glacier National Park, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Seward Peninsula, Various Ascents
In April I climbed the east face of Mt. Osborne (4,714') with Phillip Hofstetter. The climb was 2,500' of moderate 45° ...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Alaska Range, Geographical Note
Geographical note: While the well-known peaks in Denali National Park are often called “the Alaska Range,” these peaks form just ...
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Notes
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Various New Routes
Various new routes. Between March 29 and April 7,2002, Rich Chappell, Jose Rueter, Mike Sterling, and I made first ascents in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Balchen, West Face
Mt. Balchen, west face. In early March Michael Williams and I landed on the west side of the dry Gillam ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Delta Range, Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball
Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball. On August 12 I laid eyes on Bethan Gilmartin for the first time. August 13 found us ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2003 mountaineering season was eclipsed by the tragic crash of a McKinley Air Service ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. McKinley from Seattle
Mt. McKinley from Seattle. Erden Eruç bicycled from Seattle to Talkeetna, then walked, with friends, 67 miles into the Southeast Fork ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. McKinley's Northwest Face, Father and Sons Wall, The Great White Fright
Mt. McKinley’s northwest face, Father and Sons Wall, The Great White Fright. Having barely survived the crux of any ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. McKinley, West Buttress, Patience for Purity
Mt. McKinley, West Buttress, Patience for Purity. On June 12 and 13 Robert Adams and I climbed a new 3,500' route (Patience ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Kahiltna Dome, Choo-Choo Express
Kahiltna Dome, Choo-Choo Express. On April 23 Erick Lawson and David Mullins climbed a route, which they called Choo-Choo Express, directly ...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. McKinley, Isis Face, Second Ascent
Mt. McKinley, Isis Face, second ascent. The few seconds seemed like eternity. There was no answer, only the glacier echoing ...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 13,790' (Mt. Andrews), Going Monk
Peak 13,790' (Mt. Andrews), Going Monk. On May 30 Jonny Copp and I climbed a new route on Peak 13,790' (as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Hunter, First Ski Descent
Mt. Hunter, first ski descent. This was my first trip to Alaska. I was invited to attempt a ski descent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Hunter, South Ridge, Third Ascent
Mt. Hunter, South Ridge, third ascent. In mid-June Forrest Murphy and I climbed Mt. Hunter’s South Ridge. It was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Thunder Mountain, Ski Descent of West Face
Thunder Mountain, ski descent of west face. This 2,000' face is prominent on the flight to Kahiltna Base. On April 25 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 12,380' (Kahiltna Queen), South Face Couloir and Distant Lights
Peak 12,380' (Kahiltna Queen*), South Face Couloir and Distant Lights. It’s maddening how many things can go wrong in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 11,520', North Face to Summit Ridge
Peak 11,520', north face to summit ridge. A new route was climbed by Marty Beare and me on May 14 and 15 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Dickey, Northeast Face Ice
Mt. Dickey, northeast face ice. Flying into the Ruth Gorge, I caught sight of an obvious drip of ice on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Eye Tooth, The Talkeetna Standard; Mt. Dickey, Roberts-Rowell-Ward Route, Second Ascent
Eye Tooth, The Talkeetna Standard; Mt. Dickey, Roberts-Rowell-Ward route, second ascent. Steve House and I were flown to the Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, London BRidge, Miss Keli, and Various Activity
London Bridge, Miss Keli, and various activity. We (Iwan Wolf, Urs Stöcker, Markus Stofer, Bruno Hasler) took advantage of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, London BRidge, On the Frozen Roads of Our Incertitudes, and Various Repeats
London Bridge, On the Frozen Roads of Our Incertitudes, and various repeats. P.J. from Doug Geeting Aviation dropped Jerome ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, East Ridge, Attempt
Mt. Bradley, East Ridge, attempt. Jay Rowe and I went into the Ruth Gorge during the last week in June 2002. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, North Ridge Variation
Kichatna Spire, North Ridge variation. On June 6 Eddie Phay, Jed Brown, and I had Paul Roderick fly us onto the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, The Citadel, Last Cry of the Butterfly
The Citadel, Last Cry of the Butterfly. Marcin Tomaszewski, David Kaszlikowski, and I, supported by the Polish Climbing Association (PZA), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, The Citadel, Supa Dupa Couloir
The Citadel, Supa Dupa Couloir. While climbing Off the Wall Madness in 2002, Twid Turner and I were amazed by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains, Mt. Gerdine, Northwest Ridge and Various Activity
Mt. Gerdine, Northwest Ridge and various activity. On April 4 Johnny Soderstrom, Zach Shlosar, and I flew in with Paul Roderick ...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2004