American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Nepal, Danodar Himal, Amostang Reconnaisance and First Ascents of Thansunjiti (6084m) and Jomson (6335m)
Amotsang reconnaissance and first ascents of Thansunjiti (6,084m) and Jomson (6,335m). One of the expeditions on newly opened mountains was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna III (7555m), First Ascent of the Southwest Ridge
Annapurna III (7,555m), first ascent of the southwest ridge. On November 6, Kenton Cool and Ian Parnell, both from the UK, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Peri Himal, Hyajikang, Unsuccessful Attempt
Gyajikang, unsuccessful attempt. An expedition from the Czech Republic led by Karel Plechac attempted this 7,038m peak to the northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Peri Himal, Himlung, Ascent
Himlung, ascent. A Spanish expedition led by Inigo Loyola made the fourth ascent of Himlung (7,126m) in the Peri Himal. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Himal, Yansa Tsenjui Attempt
Yansa Tsenji attempt. A British commercially-organized expedition led by David Pritt was unsuccessful in an attempt on the east ridge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Jugal Himal, Triange Peak, Attempt on West (Southwest) Couloir
Triangle Peak, attempt on west (southwest) couloir. By October 1, 2001 all of our gear was at Pemthang Karpo Kharkha (4,675m), our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Jugal Himal, Gurkarpo Ri, another Unsuccessful Korean Attempt on This Unclimbed Peak
Gurkarpo Ri, another unsuccessful Korean attempt on this unclimbed peak. Koreans led by Kim Myung-Sin were back for another attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal (Khumbu), Teng Kang Poche, First Ascent of the Northeast Face to East Ridge
Teng Kang Poche, first ascent of the northeast face to east ridge. During November 2003 Jules Cartwright and I made two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal (Khumbu), Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6017m), First Official Ascent
Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6,017 m), first official ascent. The first authorized ascent of this recently permitted trekking peak in the Khumbu valley ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal (Khumbu), Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6017m), First Ascent of North Face (The Bonfire of the Vanities), and Southwest Side (The Bridge of Lost Desire)
Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6,017 m), first ascent of north face (The Bonfire of the Vanities), and southwest side (The Bridge of Lost ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal (Khumbu), Hungchi, First Ascent
Hungchi, first ascent. A five-hour walk northward from Gokyo along the right bench of the Ngojumba Glacier brought us to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Hungchi
Hungchi, which lies south of the Nup La on the eastern rim of the Ngojumba Glacier, which itself forms the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Cholatse (6440m), North Face Attempt
Cholatse (6,440m), north face attempt. Corean Alpine Club expedition leader, Kang Sung-woo, returned to the north face of Cholatse in 2003 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Khangri Shar, Attempt
Khangri Shar, attempt. Khangri Shar (6,811m) is one of many unclimbed peaks in the Nepal Himalaya opened for climbing by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Mt. Everest Jubilee, An Overview of Events on Everest 50 Years After Its First Ascent
Mt. Everest Jubilee; an overview of events on Everest 50 years after its first ascent. Although some of the records discussed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Everest, Summer and Autumn Attempts with Ski and Snowboard
Everest, summer and autumn attempts with ski and snowboard. In stark contrast to the spring season, when 69 teams swarmed on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Nuptse East I, South Face, Pre-Monsoon Attempts
Nuptse East I, south face, pre-monsoon attempts. Immediately to the south of Everest is the jagged Nuptse, which has numerous ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Nuptse East I (7804m), First Ascent
Nuptse East I (7,804m), first ascent. Last autumn’s attempt on the southeast pillar of Nuptse East I was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Nuptse, North Face, The Crystal Snake
Nuptse, north face, The Crystal Snake. In terms of high-standard technical ascents at altitude the highlight of the season was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Lhotse South Face, Winter Attempt
Lhotse south face, winter attempt. Two years had passed since the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club tried the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Kyashar (aka Peak 43, 6770m), First Official Ascent
Kyashar (aka Peak 43, 6,770m), first official ascent. Climbing new routes in the Himalaya isn’t what it used to be. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Asia, Nepal (Barun), Tutse Attempt
Tutse attempt. A Danish expedition led by Claus Ostergaard made the first official attempt on Tutse (aka Peak 6, 6,758m) close ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Jannu, North Face Attempt
Jannu, north face attempt. The all-star team of Erhard Loretan, Fredéric Roux, Ueli Steck, and Stefan Siegrist attempted the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Jannu, Attempt on Direct North Face
Jannu, attempt on the direct north face. Big Walls-Russian Routes is the name loosely given to a series of expeditions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Kangchenjunga, Southwest Face, Partial New Route/Direct Finish, La Luce del Nirvana
Kangchenjunga, southwest face, partial new route/direct finish, La Luce del Nirvana. Of the five expeditions attempting 8,586m Kangchenjunga, two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Maoist Activity, An Overview of the Post-Monsoon Season
Maoist activity, an overview of the post-monsoon season. Maoist rebels fighting against Nepal’s constitutional monarchy have been earning quite ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Asia, Nepal, Autumn Fatalities
Autumn fatalities. Ayumi Nozawai was one of seven climbers who died this autumn. He was part of a three-man Japanese ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Asia, China, the Effect of SARS in 2003
The effect of SARS in 2003. The outbreak of the SARS virus played havoc with many expeditions visiting China in the ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Asia, China, Xinjiang, Kun Lun Mountains, Mustagh Ata, The Golden Eye, New Route with Ski Descent
Mustagh Ata, The Golden Eye, new route with ski descent. On July 18, “Sneaky” Pete Lardy, Chad McFadden, and Tom McMillan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, China, Kashgar Range, Complete Crossing of the Southern Section of the Chinese Pamir and First Ascents of Pts 5430m and 5975m
Complete crossing of the southern section of the Chinese Pamir and first ascents of Pts 5,430m and 5,975m. Andrei Lebedev (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Mt. Grosvenor, First Ascent
Mt. Grosvenor, first ascent. Our original plan had been to attempt Chomolhari, but we ran into problems when we discovered ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Mt. Grosvenor, Attempt on Northwest Face
Mt. Grosvenor, attempt on northwest face. In the spring of 2003 Grosvenor (6,367m) was still unclimbed. It has a spectacular northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, China, Qionglai Range, Siguniang National Park, Tan Shan and Putala Shan, First Ascents via Difficult Rock Routes
Tan Shan and Putala Shan, first ascents via difficult rock routes. My wife Tanja Grmovsek and I planned to visit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Chang Tang, Unsupported Crossing
Chang Tang, unsupported crossing. Janne Corax and Nadine Saulnier from Sweden are claiming the first complete north to south crossing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Shishapangma (Xixabangma), Winter Attempt via the Southwest Face
Shishapangma (Xixabangma), winter attempt via the southwest face. Before last year no one had attempted to climb 8,012m Shishapangma in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Shishapangma (Xixabangma), Attempt in Winter and First Winter Ascent of the Southwest Face
Shishapangma (Xixabangma), attempt in winter and first winter ascent of the southwest face. Our aim was the southwest face and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Labchi Kang Group, First Ascents
Labchi Kang Group, first ascents. Duncan Chessell’s Australian-Icelandic commercial expedition, which was successful on Cho Oyu, putting three out ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Cho Oyu, Oiarzabal Record
Cho Oyu, Oiarzabal record. In the post monsoon of 2003 Cho Oyu was attempted by 36 teams, ranging in size from one ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Hungchi, Attempt
Hungchi, attempt. The successful first ascent of Hungchi (7,036m) in April 2003 by Takashi Shiro’s Japanese Osaka Eiho Alpine Club ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Everest, Overcrowding on the North Ridge
Everest, overcrowding on the North Ridge. Climbers on the Tibetan side had similar complaints to those on the Nepal side. ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Everest, Summer Attempt to Ski and Snowboard the Mountain
Everest, summer attempt to ski and snowboard the mountain. There was only one expedition to the mountain during the summer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Nyachen Thanglha (Nyainqentanglha) Range, Western Nyanchen, Thanglha, Golden Dragon, White Pagoda, Yarlung Ri, Previously Unreported First Ascents
Western Nyanchen Thanglha, Golden Dragon, White Pagoda, Yarlung Ri, previously unreported first ascents. In September 2000 Erich Gatt, Hansjoerg Pfaundler, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Nyachen Thanglha (Nyainqentanglha) Range, Beu-tse, First Ascent
Beu-tse, first ascent. In September Derek Buckle, Martin Scott, Alasdair Scott, and I made the first ascent of Beu-tse (6,270m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Nyainqentangla East Range, Niwu Valley, Chukporisum (6359m), Attempt
Niwu Valley, Chukporisum (6,359m), attempt. In September 2003 a team of four members traveled to the little-explored Nyainqentangla East range in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Kangri Garpo Range, Mt. Ruoni, Attempt
Mt. Ruoni, attempt. The Kangri Garpo Range is located in the Zayul and Bomi Counties of Eastern Tibet. Since this ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tibet, Kangri Garpo Range, Kangri Garpo Range, Exploration and Naming of Peaks
Kangri Garpo Range, exploration and naming of peaks. In spring 2001, the Fukuoka Section of the Japanese Alpine Club dispatched a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Khumbu Climbing School
Khumbu Climbing School The Sherpa people of Nepal visit the mountains for reasons quite different than the western climber. For ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Climber Impacts and Access in Peru's Cordillera Blanca
The Cordillera Blanca is the world’s highest tropical mountain range, with the greatest concentration of 6,000-meter peaks outside the ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Mt. Everest Alpine Conservation and Restoration Act
On 30 May, 2003, the International Conservation Committee of the AAC announced that it will financially support a major new conservation initiative ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Update on the Himalayan Cataract Project
The past year and a half has marked an exciting period of growth for the Himalayan Cataract Project and has ...
AAJ
Notes
2004