American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Meru Central Summit (6450 m), an Attempt on the Shark's Fin
Meru Central Summit (6,450m), an attempt on the Shark’s Fin. Conrad Anker, Doug Chabot, and I arrived in Delhi ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Unnamed Peak (6193 m)
Unnamed Peak (6,193m). A two-member Polish team comprising Robert Sieklucki and Marcin Wernik attempted this unnamed peak near to Nandanvan. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Bhagirathi Enchainment Attempt
Bhagirathi enchainment attempt. Americans Jonathan Copp and Dylan Taylor were attempting the ambitious project of an enchainment from Bhagirathi III (6,454...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Bhagirathi III, West Face, Ascent of Spanish (Catalan) Route
Three Swiss, Simon Anthamatten, Urs Stocker and Reiner Treppte, made the third ascent to the summit of the ca 1,350m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Kamet (7756 m), New Route via the Northwest Ridge
Kamet (7,756m), new route via the northwest ridge. An eight-member Indian Navy expedition, employing Sherpas and High Altitude Porters, climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Lampak I and II, Ascents
Lampak I and II, ascents. A 10-member team from the Punjab Police, led by PM Das, climbed both Lampak peaks, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Kalanka, North Face, Attempt
Kalanka, north face, attempt. Kalanka is 6,931 meters and is joined to Changabang bordering the massive Nanda Devi Sanctuary. There is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Kumaon, Panch Chuli II, Ascents and Tragedies
Panch Chuli II (6,904m), ascents and tragedies. In one of the worst avalanche tragedies in the history of Himalayan mountaineering ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Sikkim, New Icefall Climbing
New icefall climbing. In 2004, Adam George, Philippe Wheelock, and I (all from Colorado), with assistance from Kelsang Phuntsok and Tashi ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Sikkim, Ratong Valley, Tien Kg, New Route Merenge Bilinbolonka; and Phori, Possible First Ascent
Ratong Valley, Tieng Kg, new route Merenge Bilinbolonka; and Phori, possible first ascent. Spanish Basque climbers Garo Azuke and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Arunachal Pradesh, The Bailey Trail, a Rare Trek in Arunachal Pradesh
The Bailey Trail, a rare trek in Arunachal Pradesh. During the month of October a team of three Indians comprising ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Pre-Monsoon 2003, Overview
Pre-Monsoon 2003, overview. The spring marked the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest and led to record numbers on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Ministry of Tourism Post-monsoon Statistics
Ministry of Tourism post monsoon statistics. The Ministry of Tourism reported that 76 expeditions comprising 490 members from 18 different countries were permitted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Far West Asia, Nepal, Raksha Urai, First Ascent and Tragedy
Raksha Urai, first ascent and tragedy. In the remote Api-Nampa-Saipal region of Far West Nepal, there is a small north-south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal, Norbu Kang, First Official Ascent
Norbu Kang, first official ascent. During the summer, Japanese led by Tamotsu Ohnishi made the first ascent of Norbu Kang, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Dualagiri Himal, Dualagiri II, South Face to East Ridge, Attempt
Dhaulagiri II, south face to east ridge, attempt. The seven-man Czech expedition led by Pavel Trefil chose the very rarely ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Dualagiri Himal, Tashi Kang and Peak 6195 m, Ascents
Tashi Kang and Peak 6,195m, ascents. While acclimatizing for their attempt on the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, a group of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal, Putrung, Attempt
Putrung, attempt. One of the newly opened Mustang peaks, 6,466m Putrung in the southwestern Damodar Himal, was attempted by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Danodar Himal, Saribung a.k.a. Seliben (6328m), First Ascent
Saribung, a.k.a. Seliben (6,328m), first ascent. During October, Peter Ackroyd, Steve Furman, and I made the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Danodar Himal, Gaugiri, Second and Third Ascents by a New Route
Gaugiri, second and third ascents by a new route. The 6,110m Gaugiri in upper Mustang, first ascended in 2002 via the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Danodar Himal, Amostang Reconnaisance and First Ascents of Thansunjiti (6084m) and Jomson (6335m)
Amotsang reconnaissance and first ascents of Thansunjiti (6,084m) and Jomson (6,335m). One of the expeditions on newly opened mountains was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna III (7555m), First Ascent of the Southwest Ridge
Annapurna III (7,555m), first ascent of the southwest ridge. On November 6, Kenton Cool and Ian Parnell, both from the UK, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Peri Himal, Hyajikang, Unsuccessful Attempt
Gyajikang, unsuccessful attempt. An expedition from the Czech Republic led by Karel Plechac attempted this 7,038m peak to the northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Peri Himal, Himlung, Ascent
Himlung, ascent. A Spanish expedition led by Inigo Loyola made the fourth ascent of Himlung (7,126m) in the Peri Himal. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Himal, Yansa Tsenjui Attempt
Yansa Tsenji attempt. A British commercially-organized expedition led by David Pritt was unsuccessful in an attempt on the east ridge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Jugal Himal, Triange Peak, Attempt on West (Southwest) Couloir
Triangle Peak, attempt on west (southwest) couloir. By October 1, 2001 all of our gear was at Pemthang Karpo Kharkha (4,675m), our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Jugal Himal, Gurkarpo Ri, another Unsuccessful Korean Attempt on This Unclimbed Peak
Gurkarpo Ri, another unsuccessful Korean attempt on this unclimbed peak. Koreans led by Kim Myung-Sin were back for another attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal (Khumbu), Teng Kang Poche, First Ascent of the Northeast Face to East Ridge
Teng Kang Poche, first ascent of the northeast face to east ridge. During November 2003 Jules Cartwright and I made two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal (Khumbu), Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6017m), First Official Ascent
Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6,017 m), first official ascent. The first authorized ascent of this recently permitted trekking peak in the Khumbu valley ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal (Khumbu), Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6017m), First Ascent of North Face (The Bonfire of the Vanities), and Southwest Side (The Bridge of Lost Desire)
Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6,017 m), first ascent of north face (The Bonfire of the Vanities), and southwest side (The Bridge of Lost ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal (Khumbu), Hungchi, First Ascent
Hungchi, first ascent. A five-hour walk northward from Gokyo along the right bench of the Ngojumba Glacier brought us to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Hungchi
Hungchi, which lies south of the Nup La on the eastern rim of the Ngojumba Glacier, which itself forms the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Cholatse (6440m), North Face Attempt
Cholatse (6,440m), north face attempt. Corean Alpine Club expedition leader, Kang Sung-woo, returned to the north face of Cholatse in 2003 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Khangri Shar, Attempt
Khangri Shar, attempt. Khangri Shar (6,811m) is one of many unclimbed peaks in the Nepal Himalaya opened for climbing by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Mt. Everest Jubilee, An Overview of Events on Everest 50 Years After Its First Ascent
Mt. Everest Jubilee; an overview of events on Everest 50 years after its first ascent. Although some of the records discussed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Everest, Summer and Autumn Attempts with Ski and Snowboard
Everest, summer and autumn attempts with ski and snowboard. In stark contrast to the spring season, when 69 teams swarmed on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Nuptse East I, South Face, Pre-Monsoon Attempts
Nuptse East I, south face, pre-monsoon attempts. Immediately to the south of Everest is the jagged Nuptse, which has numerous ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Nuptse East I (7804m), First Ascent
Nuptse East I (7,804m), first ascent. Last autumn’s attempt on the southeast pillar of Nuptse East I was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Nuptse, North Face, The Crystal Snake
Nuptse, north face, The Crystal Snake. In terms of high-standard technical ascents at altitude the highlight of the season was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Lhotse South Face, Winter Attempt
Lhotse south face, winter attempt. Two years had passed since the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club tried the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Kyashar (aka Peak 43, 6770m), First Official Ascent
Kyashar (aka Peak 43, 6,770m), first official ascent. Climbing new routes in the Himalaya isn’t what it used to be. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Asia, Nepal (Barun), Tutse Attempt
Tutse attempt. A Danish expedition led by Claus Ostergaard made the first official attempt on Tutse (aka Peak 6, 6,758m) close ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Jannu, North Face Attempt
Jannu, north face attempt. The all-star team of Erhard Loretan, Fredéric Roux, Ueli Steck, and Stefan Siegrist attempted the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Jannu, Attempt on Direct North Face
Jannu, attempt on the direct north face. Big Walls-Russian Routes is the name loosely given to a series of expeditions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Kangchenjunga, Southwest Face, Partial New Route/Direct Finish, La Luce del Nirvana
Kangchenjunga, southwest face, partial new route/direct finish, La Luce del Nirvana. Of the five expeditions attempting 8,586m Kangchenjunga, two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Nepal, Maoist Activity, An Overview of the Post-Monsoon Season
Maoist activity, an overview of the post-monsoon season. Maoist rebels fighting against Nepal’s constitutional monarchy have been earning quite ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Asia, Nepal, Autumn Fatalities
Autumn fatalities. Ayumi Nozawai was one of seven climbers who died this autumn. He was part of a three-man Japanese ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Asia, China, the Effect of SARS in 2003
The effect of SARS in 2003. The outbreak of the SARS virus played havoc with many expeditions visiting China in the ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Asia, China, Xinjiang, Kun Lun Mountains, Mustagh Ata, The Golden Eye, New Route with Ski Descent
Mustagh Ata, The Golden Eye, new route with ski descent. On July 18, “Sneaky” Pete Lardy, Chad McFadden, and Tom McMillan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, China, Kashgar Range, Complete Crossing of the Southern Section of the Chinese Pamir and First Ascents of Pts 5430m and 5975m
Complete crossing of the southern section of the Chinese Pamir and first ascents of Pts 5,430m and 5,975m. Andrei Lebedev (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004