American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Afghanistan, Noshaq (7,492m), First Ascent in 25 Years
Noshaq (7,492m), first ascent in 25 years. The Oxus Mission, organized by Mountain Wilderness International, had two main goals: to show ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Inylchek Region, Peak Gorky (6,050m), South Face, Slovenia Direct
Peak Gorky (6,050m), south face, Slovenia Direct. In July-August 2003 the region of famous peaks Pobeda and Khan-Tengri was visited by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Kokshaal-Too, Borkolday Range, First Ascents
Borkolday Range, first ascents. The Borkoldoy range is a limestone massif situated north of the Dankova region of the West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Kokshaal-Too, Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), First Ascent, Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), Second Ascent
Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), first ascent; Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), second ascent. In the summer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Peak October, October Victory
Peak October, October Victory. In the Ak-Su Valley three Czech climbers—M. Holecek, D. Stastny, and O. Vasek—established a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Ak Su, North Face, New Route in Winter
Ak Su, north face, new route in winter. Before climbing Ak-Su (5,355m), we already had expedition experience on big walls ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Ak-Su North, Nose Direct
Ak-Su North, Nose Direct. Due to terrorist activity, the government closed the Laylak Valley in the Pamir-Alai in 2000. Only in 2002 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tajikistan, South-Western Pamir, Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky Ranges, 280km Traverse with Several Ascents
Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky ranges, 280km traverse with several ascents. In August-September our group from the sport club of the Moscow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Asia, Pakistan, 2003 Overview
Pakistan, 2003 overview. Approximately 54 expeditions took up permits for peaks over 6,500m. Mountains below this altitude are now exempt from royalty ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Asia, Pakistan, West Himalaya, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), New Route on Diamir Face
Nanga Parbat (8,126m), new route on Diamir Face. Of the five expeditions to Nanga Parbat, only two were successful and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Asia, Pakistan, West Himalaya, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, New Route Attempt
Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, new route attempt. The Slovenian, Tomaz Humar, was hoping to make an audacious solo ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Rakaposhi Range, Malibuting Central (7260m), Second Ascent
Malubiting Central (7,260m), second ascent. On July 25 two Spanish climbers, Raul Magdaleno and Álvaro Novellón, made the second ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Khunyang Chhish (7852m), West Ridge Attempt on Pt. 6100m
Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), west ridge attempt and Pt. 6,100m. Locals say Khunyang Chhish means “the corner peak.” In 1892 Martin Conway ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Khunyang Chhish East (ca 7400m), Southwest Face Attempt
The Polish Khunyang Chhish East Expedition comprised Janusz Golab, Stanislaw Piecuch, and myself, Grzegorz Skorek. On July 31 we started our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan,Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Pumari Chhish South (7350 m) Attempt on South Face
Pumari Chhish South (7,350m), attempt on south face. Two French climbers were among the first to visit the range last ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan,Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Peak 6,920m, first ascent
Peak 6,920m, first ascent. A four-man Russian team comprising Valeri Bagov, Ivan Dusharin, Viktor Kolesnichenko, and (Russian-American) Lev Yoffe, made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan,Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, LatokV (6190 m), Attempt
Latok V (6,190m), attempt. The Japanese climber Moromu Omiya returned for his third attempt on the unclimbed 6,190m summit of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakorma, Panmah Muztagh, Great Trango (6,257m), northwest face attempt
Great Trango (6,257m), northwest face attempt. Four mountaineers from the Ukraine, Alexander Lavrinenko, Vladimir Mogila, Vitali Yarichveski, and Alexey Zhilin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakorma, Panmah Muztagh, Trango Tower (6251 m), Almost-Free Ascent of Eternal Flame
Trango Tower (6,251m), almost-free ascent of Eternal Flame. This spring, Toni met Kurt Albert, who told him about his route, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakorma, Panmah Muztagh, Trango Tower (6251 m), Alpine Style Ascent of Eternal Flame (Though not to Summit)
Trango Tower (6,251m), alpine style ascent of Eternal Flame (though not to summit). In early July Eternal Flame also received ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Point 4400m above the Trango Glacier, First Ascent (Sadu)
Point 4,400m above the Trango Glacier, first ascent (Sadu). A few days after their climb on Eternal Flame, Antoine and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Masherbrum Attempt, Charakusa Valley Exploration, Haji Brakk First Ascent
Masherbrum attempt, Charakusa Valley exploration, Haji Brakk first ascent. With Slovenians, Marko Prezelj and Matic Jost, I arrived at base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum IV (7980m), Attempt of West Face
Gasherbrum IV (7,980m), attempt at west face. Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp made two attempts on Gasherbrum IV. Their main ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Overview of Foreign Expeditions
Overview of foreign expeditions. Around 35 expeditions from various countries visited the Indian Himalaya during 2003. This was perhaps the smallest number ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Overview of Asia, Indian Expeditions
Overview of Indian Expeditions. Seventy five Indian expeditions were organized by various clubs and associations within the country. In addition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Kashmir, Shafat Valley, First Ascent of Kova Peak and Gulmatonga Tower
Shafat Valley, first ascent of Kova Peak and Gulmatonga Tower. The Curbatts (the Crows) are a close-knit group of alpinists ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Ladakh, East Karakoram, Argan Kangri (6789 m), First or Second Ascent?
East Karakoram, Argan Kangri (6,789 m), first or second ascent? The Indian Mountaineering Foundation sponsored an all ladies expedition to Argan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Ladakh, Saser Kangri I, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Saser Kangri IV Ascent
Saser Kangri I, northwest ridge attempt and Saser Kangri IV ascent. A nine-member team from the Indian Navy made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Lahul, Unnamed Peak on Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley, the Last Minute Journey
Unnamed peak on the Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley, The Last Minute Journey. Making an alpine ascent in the Himalaya is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Lahul, Unnamed Peak on Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley
Unnamed peak on the Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley. Four Italians, Roberto Iannilli, Marco Marciano, Moritz Tirler, and Giovanni Rivolta, attempted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Lahul, CB 44, a previously Unnamed Peak in Central Lahul, Probable First Ascent
CB 44, a previously unnamed peak in Central Lahul, probable first ascent. Our organization, Kolkata Trekkers Youth (formerly Calcutta Trekkers Youth) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Spiti, Losar Valley, Pt. 6000 m (First?) Ascent and Dawa Kanmri, Second Ascent
Losar Valley, Pt 6,000m, (first?) ascent and Dawa Kangri, second ascent. A 10-member team from Kolkatta led by Ujjal Ray ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Gangotri National Park
Gangotri National Park. Recently the Gangotri region gained national park status. The park has already reported a number of successfully ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Kedar Dome, East Face Attempt
Kedar Dome, east face attempt. Cameron Lawson, Mark Synnott, and I arrived in the Gangotri during September, finding that a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Thalay Sagar, North Face Attempt
Thalay Sagar, north face attempt. A skilled team of seven Koreans, with considerable 8,000m experience, was led by Lee Sang ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Thalay Sagar, North Face, New Route, One Way Ticket
Thalay Sagar, north face, new route, One Way Ticket. Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz from France discovered a very ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Thalay Sagar (6903 m), North Face, New Route Attempt
Thalay Sagar (6,903m), north face, new route attempt. Ben Gilmore and I attempted a new line on the north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Thalay Sagar, North Face, New Route
Thalay Sagar, north face, new route. A Bulgarian team tackled the unclimbed right side of the face, well right of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Thalay Sagar, Northeast Face, New Route
Thalay Sagar, northeast face, new route. Dutch climbers Mike van Berkel, Cas van de Gevel, and Melvin Redeker fixed ropes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Meru Central Summit (6450 m), an Attempt on the Shark's Fin
Meru Central Summit (6,450m), an attempt on the Shark’s Fin. A four-member Korean team led by Park Sik-Young attempted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Meru Central Summit (6450 m), an Attempt on the Shark's Fin
Meru Central Summit (6,450m), an attempt on the Shark’s Fin. Conrad Anker, Doug Chabot, and I arrived in Delhi ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Unnamed Peak (6193 m)
Unnamed Peak (6,193m). A two-member Polish team comprising Robert Sieklucki and Marcin Wernik attempted this unnamed peak near to Nandanvan. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Bhagirathi Enchainment Attempt
Bhagirathi enchainment attempt. Americans Jonathan Copp and Dylan Taylor were attempting the ambitious project of an enchainment from Bhagirathi III (6,454...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Bhagirathi III, West Face, Ascent of Spanish (Catalan) Route
Three Swiss, Simon Anthamatten, Urs Stocker and Reiner Treppte, made the third ascent to the summit of the ca 1,350m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Kamet (7756 m), New Route via the Northwest Ridge
Kamet (7,756m), new route via the northwest ridge. An eight-member Indian Navy expedition, employing Sherpas and High Altitude Porters, climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Lampak I and II, Ascents
Lampak I and II, ascents. A 10-member team from the Punjab Police, led by PM Das, climbed both Lampak peaks, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Kalanka, North Face, Attempt
Kalanka, north face, attempt. Kalanka is 6,931 meters and is joined to Changabang bordering the massive Nanda Devi Sanctuary. There is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Kumaon, Panch Chuli II, Ascents and Tragedies
Panch Chuli II (6,904m), ascents and tragedies. In one of the worst avalanche tragedies in the history of Himalayan mountaineering ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Sikkim, New Icefall Climbing
New icefall climbing. In 2004, Adam George, Philippe Wheelock, and I (all from Colorado), with assistance from Kelsang Phuntsok and Tashi ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Sikkim, Ratong Valley, Tien Kg, New Route Merenge Bilinbolonka; and Phori, Possible First Ascent
Ratong Valley, Tieng Kg, new route Merenge Bilinbolonka; and Phori, possible first ascent. Spanish Basque climbers Garo Azuke and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004