American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Vinson Massif, West Face Ice Stream, Repeat Ascent
Vinson Massif, West Face Ice Stream, repeat ascent. As reported above, on December 23 Luis Fraga, Miguel Angel Vidal, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, An Exploratory Journey through the Ellsworth Mountains in 2002-03, and First Ascent of Mt. Segers
An exploratory journey through the Ellsworth Mountains in 2002-03, and first ascent of Mt. Segers. On November 10, 2002 four Chilean mountaineers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Dronning Maud Land, Fenris, Orvin Fjella Mountains, First Ascent
Fenris, Orvin Fjella Mountains, first ascent. In December 2003 Mike Libecki and I were landed at an altitude of ca 1,200m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Mount Dido, First Ascent of South Ridge
Mount Dido, first ascent of South Ridge. During a SAR training exercise in February 2002, Thai Verzone and I had the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Brief Summary
Antarctic Peninsula brief summary. The Antarctic Peninsula was surprisingly quiet this year, with only two expeditions attempting mountain objectives. During ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Livingston Island, South Shetland Islands, Second Ascent of Mt. Friesland and New Altitude
Livingston Island, South Shetland Islands, second ascent of Mt. Friesland and New Altitude. Livingston Island is around 60km long and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Unnamed Peak, First Ascent, Prospect Point
Unnamed Peak, First Ascent, Prospect Point, Antarctic Peninsula. A group of eight Palestinian and Israeli adventurers—the Breaking The Ice ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, South Georgia, Mount Paget, Alladyce Range, North East Spur
Mount Paget, Alladyce Range, North East Spur. In November 2003 a Spanish team including José Carlos Tamayo made a rare ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Morocco, Atlas Mountains, Taghia Gorge, Les Rivieres Pourpres, and Sul Filo della Notte
Atlas Mountains, Taghia Gorge, Les Rivieres Pourpres and Sul Filo della Notte. Visiting the remote Taghia Gorge in Morocco this ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Uganda, Rwenzori (Ruwenzori) Mountains, Mountains of the Moon, an Historical Overview and Recent Ascent of Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109 m)
Rwenzori (Ruwenzori) Mountains, Mountains of the Moon, an historical overview and recent ascent of Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m.). Rwenzori ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Mali, La Mano de Fatima, Kaga Tondo, Forsakala Bimbaso
La Mano de Fatima, Kaga Tondo, Forsakala Bimbaso. Adventure and unexpected situations guided a group of Czech climbers during their ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Mali, Hand of Fatima, First Complete Link-up (In a Day)
Hand of Fatima, first complete link-up (in a day). From mid November to mid December, I had the extreme pleasure ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Mali, Hand of Fatima, Further Notes to Wright's Report
Hand of Fatima, further notes to Wright’s report. The Hand of Fatima towers close to the town of Hombori ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Namibia, Spitzkoppe, Summary
Spitzkoppe, summary. This stunning granite outcrop in central Namibia has some of Southern Africa’s finest climbing, with bouldering to 14...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, South Africa, Drakensberg Mountains, Monk's Cowl (3,224m), Janschek-Mackenzie-Manson
Drakensberg Mountains, Monk's Cowl (3,224m), Janschek-Mackenzie-Manson. The Drakensberg Mountains (Quathamba in Zulu, translated: “the barrier of spears”) are not very ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Vagakallen North Face, Invasion in the Land of Vikings
The alarm clock sounds and our small troop prepares for the big day. The atmospheric pressure was high and we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Europe, Norway, Lofoten Islands, Vagakallen's Great Pillar
Lofoton Islands, Vagakallens Great Pillar. We always intended to visit Norway, inspired by the Troll Wall and pictures and reports ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Russia, Central Caucasus, Ullu-Tau (4,207m), North Face, New Route
Ullu-Tau (4,207m), north face, new route. In June 2003 a team of Czech climbers Bohuslav Vlcek, Jan Skalik, and Ondra Vespalec ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Russia, Siberia, Czarsky Tron, Southwest Wall, New Route
Czarsky Tron, southwest wall, new route. In February 2003 a team from Krasnoyarsk climbed a new route on the southwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Russia, Siberia, Agrada, East Face, Mirror for the Hero
Agrada, east face, Mirror for the Hero. In August our team established a new route on the 2,340m Agrada, Barguzinsky ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Afghanistan, Noshaq (7,492m), First Ascent in 25 Years
Noshaq (7,492m), first ascent in 25 years. The Oxus Mission, organized by Mountain Wilderness International, had two main goals: to show ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Inylchek Region, Peak Gorky (6,050m), South Face, Slovenia Direct
Peak Gorky (6,050m), south face, Slovenia Direct. In July-August 2003 the region of famous peaks Pobeda and Khan-Tengri was visited by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Kokshaal-Too, Borkolday Range, First Ascents
Borkolday Range, first ascents. The Borkoldoy range is a limestone massif situated north of the Dankova region of the West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Kokshaal-Too, Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), First Ascent, Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), Second Ascent
Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), first ascent; Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), second ascent. In the summer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Peak October, October Victory
Peak October, October Victory. In the Ak-Su Valley three Czech climbers—M. Holecek, D. Stastny, and O. Vasek—established a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Ak Su, North Face, New Route in Winter
Ak Su, north face, new route in winter. Before climbing Ak-Su (5,355m), we already had expedition experience on big walls ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Ak-Su North, Nose Direct
Ak-Su North, Nose Direct. Due to terrorist activity, the government closed the Laylak Valley in the Pamir-Alai in 2000. Only in 2002 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tajikistan, South-Western Pamir, Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky Ranges, 280km Traverse with Several Ascents
Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky ranges, 280km traverse with several ascents. In August-September our group from the sport club of the Moscow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Asia, Pakistan, 2003 Overview
Pakistan, 2003 overview. Approximately 54 expeditions took up permits for peaks over 6,500m. Mountains below this altitude are now exempt from royalty ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Asia, Pakistan, West Himalaya, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), New Route on Diamir Face
Nanga Parbat (8,126m), new route on Diamir Face. Of the five expeditions to Nanga Parbat, only two were successful and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Asia, Pakistan, West Himalaya, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, New Route Attempt
Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, new route attempt. The Slovenian, Tomaz Humar, was hoping to make an audacious solo ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Rakaposhi Range, Malibuting Central (7260m), Second Ascent
Malubiting Central (7,260m), second ascent. On July 25 two Spanish climbers, Raul Magdaleno and Álvaro Novellón, made the second ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Khunyang Chhish (7852m), West Ridge Attempt on Pt. 6100m
Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), west ridge attempt and Pt. 6,100m. Locals say Khunyang Chhish means “the corner peak.” In 1892 Martin Conway ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Khunyang Chhish East (ca 7400m), Southwest Face Attempt
The Polish Khunyang Chhish East Expedition comprised Janusz Golab, Stanislaw Piecuch, and myself, Grzegorz Skorek. On July 31 we started our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan,Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Pumari Chhish South (7350 m) Attempt on South Face
Pumari Chhish South (7,350m), attempt on south face. Two French climbers were among the first to visit the range last ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan,Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Peak 6,920m, first ascent
Peak 6,920m, first ascent. A four-man Russian team comprising Valeri Bagov, Ivan Dusharin, Viktor Kolesnichenko, and (Russian-American) Lev Yoffe, made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan,Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, LatokV (6190 m), Attempt
Latok V (6,190m), attempt. The Japanese climber Moromu Omiya returned for his third attempt on the unclimbed 6,190m summit of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakorma, Panmah Muztagh, Great Trango (6,257m), northwest face attempt
Great Trango (6,257m), northwest face attempt. Four mountaineers from the Ukraine, Alexander Lavrinenko, Vladimir Mogila, Vitali Yarichveski, and Alexey Zhilin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakorma, Panmah Muztagh, Trango Tower (6251 m), Almost-Free Ascent of Eternal Flame
Trango Tower (6,251m), almost-free ascent of Eternal Flame. This spring, Toni met Kurt Albert, who told him about his route, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakorma, Panmah Muztagh, Trango Tower (6251 m), Alpine Style Ascent of Eternal Flame (Though not to Summit)
Trango Tower (6,251m), alpine style ascent of Eternal Flame (though not to summit). In early July Eternal Flame also received ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Point 4400m above the Trango Glacier, First Ascent (Sadu)
Point 4,400m above the Trango Glacier, first ascent (Sadu). A few days after their climb on Eternal Flame, Antoine and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Masherbrum Attempt, Charakusa Valley Exploration, Haji Brakk First Ascent
Masherbrum attempt, Charakusa Valley exploration, Haji Brakk first ascent. With Slovenians, Marko Prezelj and Matic Jost, I arrived at base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum IV (7980m), Attempt of West Face
Gasherbrum IV (7,980m), attempt at west face. Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp made two attempts on Gasherbrum IV. Their main ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Overview of Foreign Expeditions
Overview of foreign expeditions. Around 35 expeditions from various countries visited the Indian Himalaya during 2003. This was perhaps the smallest number ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Overview of Asia, Indian Expeditions
Overview of Indian Expeditions. Seventy five Indian expeditions were organized by various clubs and associations within the country. In addition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Kashmir, Shafat Valley, First Ascent of Kova Peak and Gulmatonga Tower
Shafat Valley, first ascent of Kova Peak and Gulmatonga Tower. The Curbatts (the Crows) are a close-knit group of alpinists ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Ladakh, East Karakoram, Argan Kangri (6789 m), First or Second Ascent?
East Karakoram, Argan Kangri (6,789 m), first or second ascent? The Indian Mountaineering Foundation sponsored an all ladies expedition to Argan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Ladakh, Saser Kangri I, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Saser Kangri IV Ascent
Saser Kangri I, northwest ridge attempt and Saser Kangri IV ascent. A nine-member team from the Indian Navy made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Lahul, Unnamed Peak on Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley, the Last Minute Journey
Unnamed peak on the Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley, The Last Minute Journey. Making an alpine ascent in the Himalaya is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, India, Lahul, Unnamed Peak on Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley
Unnamed peak on the Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley. Four Italians, Roberto Iannilli, Marco Marciano, Moritz Tirler, and Giovanni Rivolta, attempted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004