American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Season Overview
Season overview. The 2003-04 Patagonia season was one of marked contrasts, with much bad weather and heavy snowfall, but with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Punta Herron, Spigolo dei Bimbi, Second Ascent
Punta Herron, Spigolo dei Bimbi, second ascent. On the evening of October 30 David Fasel, Ueli Steck, Ralph Weber, and I, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Guillaumet, New Route
Aguja Guillaumet, new route. Marcin Szczotka and Mariusz Nowak established a new route on the west face of Aguja Guillaumet, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Mermoz, New Variation
Aguja Mermoz, new variation. On February 7, 2004, Maciej Ciesielski and I added five new pitches, onsight at VII UIAA (5.10d) with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Linea de Eleganza (Elegant Line)
Fitz Roy, Linea de Eleganza (Elegant Line). True alpinism isn’t solely the discovery of new walls, of new lines, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Slovak Route, Third Ascent and First Free Ascent, Desmochada, El Facon
Fitz Roy, Slovak Route, third ascent and first free ascent; Desmochada, El Facón. Patagonian weather seemed like it was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Rafael, Quilombo
Aguja Rafael, Quilombo. When Zack Smith and I arrived at the Chalten Massif in Argentine Patagonia, the weather had been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Rafael, Artibelleza, First Free Ascent
Aguja Rafael, Artibelleza, first free ascent. Patagonia is always a crapshoot. Windy Patagonia ended up having a spell of great ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Saint Exupery, Tical, and Other Ascents
Saint Exupery, Tical, and other ascents. This year’s seven-week trip to Patagonia didn’t start well. I flew out ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Saint Exupery, Austrian Ridge, First Free Ascent
Aguja Saint Exupery, Austrian Ridge, first free ascent. Beginning on January 29, ten days after we arrived in Chalten, Jonny Copp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Pereyra, First Ascent, Aguja de L'S, The Thaw's Not Houlding Wright
Cerro Pereyra, first ascent; Aguja de L’S, The Thaw’s not Houlding Wright. Heeding the barrage of ice blocks ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Hielo Continental, Patagonian Icecap, North to South Unsupported Traverse
Patagonian Icecap, north to south unsupported traverse. Between late August and early October 2003 Swiss Thomas Ulrich and Norwegian Borge Ousland ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Hielo Continental, Cerro Murallon, The Lost World
Cerro Murallon, The Lost World. Finally, after nearly three weeks of waiting and repeated shipments of gear and food, we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine National Park, Cerro Almirante Nieto, Various Attempts, Various Other Ascents
Cerro Almirante Nieto, various attempts; various other ascents. Grega Lacen and I, Slovenes, came to the park on December 1. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine National Park, Central Tower of Paine, South African Route
Central Tower of Paine, South African Route. A team of six Mountain Club of South Africa members—Alard Hüfner, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine National Park, South Tower of Paine, East Face, Self Right to Suicide
South Tower of Paine, east face, Self Right to Suicide. In January and February 2004 Boguslaw Kowalski, Wojtek Wiwatowski, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine National Park, Cuerno Oeste, Mas Ricas No Hay, Cueruno Chico, Hurly Burly
Cuerno Oeste, Mas Ricas No Hay; Cuerno Chico, Hurly Burly. My partner Mark Davis and I arrived in Torres del ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, South of Paine, Mt. Burney, Second Ascent
Mt. Burney, second ascent. Mt. Burney (1,768m) is a volcano that stands near the northwest corner of the Muñoz ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Tierra Del Fuego, Isla de los Estados, Inland Traverse
Isla de los Estados, inland traverse. This island was discovered in 1615 by Le Maire and afterward visited by many explorers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, Overview
Sentinel Range, overview. The 2003-04 season saw a record number of people reach the summit of Vinson Massif (4,897m). A ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Vinson Massif, West Face Ice Stream, Repeat Ascent
Vinson Massif, West Face Ice Stream, repeat ascent. As reported above, on December 23 Luis Fraga, Miguel Angel Vidal, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, An Exploratory Journey through the Ellsworth Mountains in 2002-03, and First Ascent of Mt. Segers
An exploratory journey through the Ellsworth Mountains in 2002-03, and first ascent of Mt. Segers. On November 10, 2002 four Chilean mountaineers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Dronning Maud Land, Fenris, Orvin Fjella Mountains, First Ascent
Fenris, Orvin Fjella Mountains, first ascent. In December 2003 Mike Libecki and I were landed at an altitude of ca 1,200m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Mount Dido, First Ascent of South Ridge
Mount Dido, first ascent of South Ridge. During a SAR training exercise in February 2002, Thai Verzone and I had the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Brief Summary
Antarctic Peninsula brief summary. The Antarctic Peninsula was surprisingly quiet this year, with only two expeditions attempting mountain objectives. During ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Livingston Island, South Shetland Islands, Second Ascent of Mt. Friesland and New Altitude
Livingston Island, South Shetland Islands, second ascent of Mt. Friesland and New Altitude. Livingston Island is around 60km long and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Unnamed Peak, First Ascent, Prospect Point
Unnamed Peak, First Ascent, Prospect Point, Antarctic Peninsula. A group of eight Palestinian and Israeli adventurers—the Breaking The Ice ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Antarctica, South Georgia, Mount Paget, Alladyce Range, North East Spur
Mount Paget, Alladyce Range, North East Spur. In November 2003 a Spanish team including José Carlos Tamayo made a rare ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Morocco, Atlas Mountains, Taghia Gorge, Les Rivieres Pourpres, and Sul Filo della Notte
Atlas Mountains, Taghia Gorge, Les Rivieres Pourpres and Sul Filo della Notte. Visiting the remote Taghia Gorge in Morocco this ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Uganda, Rwenzori (Ruwenzori) Mountains, Mountains of the Moon, an Historical Overview and Recent Ascent of Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109 m)
Rwenzori (Ruwenzori) Mountains, Mountains of the Moon, an historical overview and recent ascent of Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m.). Rwenzori ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Mali, La Mano de Fatima, Kaga Tondo, Forsakala Bimbaso
La Mano de Fatima, Kaga Tondo, Forsakala Bimbaso. Adventure and unexpected situations guided a group of Czech climbers during their ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Mali, Hand of Fatima, First Complete Link-up (In a Day)
Hand of Fatima, first complete link-up (in a day). From mid November to mid December, I had the extreme pleasure ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Mali, Hand of Fatima, Further Notes to Wright's Report
Hand of Fatima, further notes to Wright’s report. The Hand of Fatima towers close to the town of Hombori ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, Namibia, Spitzkoppe, Summary
Spitzkoppe, summary. This stunning granite outcrop in central Namibia has some of Southern Africa’s finest climbing, with bouldering to 14...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Africa, South Africa, Drakensberg Mountains, Monk's Cowl (3,224m), Janschek-Mackenzie-Manson
Drakensberg Mountains, Monk's Cowl (3,224m), Janschek-Mackenzie-Manson. The Drakensberg Mountains (Quathamba in Zulu, translated: “the barrier of spears”) are not very ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Vagakallen North Face, Invasion in the Land of Vikings
The alarm clock sounds and our small troop prepares for the big day. The atmospheric pressure was high and we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Europe, Norway, Lofoten Islands, Vagakallen's Great Pillar
Lofoton Islands, Vagakallens Great Pillar. We always intended to visit Norway, inspired by the Troll Wall and pictures and reports ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Russia, Central Caucasus, Ullu-Tau (4,207m), North Face, New Route
Ullu-Tau (4,207m), north face, new route. In June 2003 a team of Czech climbers Bohuslav Vlcek, Jan Skalik, and Ondra Vespalec ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Russia, Siberia, Czarsky Tron, Southwest Wall, New Route
Czarsky Tron, southwest wall, new route. In February 2003 a team from Krasnoyarsk climbed a new route on the southwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Russia, Siberia, Agrada, East Face, Mirror for the Hero
Agrada, east face, Mirror for the Hero. In August our team established a new route on the 2,340m Agrada, Barguzinsky ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Afghanistan, Noshaq (7,492m), First Ascent in 25 Years
Noshaq (7,492m), first ascent in 25 years. The Oxus Mission, organized by Mountain Wilderness International, had two main goals: to show ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Inylchek Region, Peak Gorky (6,050m), South Face, Slovenia Direct
Peak Gorky (6,050m), south face, Slovenia Direct. In July-August 2003 the region of famous peaks Pobeda and Khan-Tengri was visited by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Kokshaal-Too, Borkolday Range, First Ascents
Borkolday Range, first ascents. The Borkoldoy range is a limestone massif situated north of the Dankova region of the West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Kokshaal-Too, Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), First Ascent, Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), Second Ascent
Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), first ascent; Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), second ascent. In the summer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Peak October, October Victory
Peak October, October Victory. In the Ak-Su Valley three Czech climbers—M. Holecek, D. Stastny, and O. Vasek—established a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Ak Su, North Face, New Route in Winter
Ak Su, north face, new route in winter. Before climbing Ak-Su (5,355m), we already had expedition experience on big walls ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, Ak-Su North, Nose Direct
Ak-Su North, Nose Direct. Due to terrorist activity, the government closed the Laylak Valley in the Pamir-Alai in 2000. Only in 2002 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Tajikistan, South-Western Pamir, Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky Ranges, 280km Traverse with Several Ascents
Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky ranges, 280km traverse with several ascents. In August-September our group from the sport club of the Moscow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Asia, Pakistan, 2003 Overview
Pakistan, 2003 overview. Approximately 54 expeditions took up permits for peaks over 6,500m. Mountains below this altitude are now exempt from royalty ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Asia, Asia, Pakistan, West Himalaya, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), New Route on Diamir Face
Nanga Parbat (8,126m), new route on Diamir Face. Of the five expeditions to Nanga Parbat, only two were successful and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004