American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Washington, Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment
Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment. In July this long-standing east-to-west challenge was completed by Mark Bunker, Colin Haley, and Wayne ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, The Chopping Block, First Winter Ascent
The Chopping Block, first winter ascent. On February 14, 2004, I hiked in via Goodell Creek and The Barrier to climb the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Inspiration Peak, First Winter Ascent
Inspiration Peak, first winter ascent. On February 7 Forrest Murphy and I left the Goodell Creek trailhead early and, using snowshoes, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Graybeard, North Face Routes
Graybeard, north face routes. In November 2002, I climbed two separate routes on the north face of Graybeard, both of which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Easy-Heather Traverse, Repeat with Variations
Easy-Heather Traverse, repeat with variations. In July 2001 I traversed the ridgeline of peaks from Easy Pass to Heather Pass along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge
Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge. So ends my fascination this year with remote Mt. Logan. My first solo foray led to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Bonanza Peak, Three-Summit Traverse
Bonanza Peak, three-summit traverse. On August 21 and 22 Kurt Buch- wald, Peter Avolio, and I completed the first ridge traverse (V 5.7/5.8) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Formidable, Complete East Ridge
Mt. Formidable, complete East Ridge. On July 30 Kurt Buchwald and I completed the ridgecrest traverse (IV 5.7) from the Spider-Formidable Col ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Witch Doctor Wall, Voodoo Wall, and Solaris
Witch Doctor Wall, Voodoo Wall and Solaris. The summer saw two aid climbs put up on Exfoliation Dome’s 1,100' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route
Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route. Jeff Hansell and I made this new route (IV 5.9) on September 10,2001. Little Big Chief ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Blockhouse, East Face Route
Blockhouse, East Face Route. On June 14 Ron Cotman and I completed an aesthetic, complicated route on the Blockhouse’s east ...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Dragontail Peak, First Winter Ascent of Serpentine Ridge
Dragontail Peak, first winter ascent of Serpentine Ridge. Ade Miller (Alpine Club, U.K.) and I climbed Dragontail Peak (8,840') ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Snoqualmie, North Face, First Free Ascent and Speed Ascent of New York Gully
Mt. Snoqualmie, North Face, first free ascent and speed ascent of New York Gully. Thanks to a weak snow year ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, various activity. The big news in the Valley this year, once again, was the freeing of big wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Ribbon Falls Area, New Routes
Ribbon Falls area, new routes. Nearly a decade after the passing of my father, I was searching for the ideal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, West Buttress, First Free Ascent; Free Zodiac, Second Free Ascent
El Capitan, West Buttress, first free ascent; Free Zodiac, second free ascent. I get more obsessed with Yosemite every year. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Zodiac, Warp Speed and Free Variation
El Capitan, Zodiac, warp speed and free variation. After an exploratory ascent in spring 2002 with Valley local Ammon McNeely, I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Ruby Wall Cirque, Boom Town and Billy from the Hills
Ruby Wall Cirque, Boom Town and Billy from the Hills. In June 2000 Jason Lakey and I completed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Mills, Northwest Ridge
Mt. Mills, Northwest Ridge. Jackie Carroll and I climbed this spectacular ridge in an unintended two-day push from Rock Creek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Birch Mountain, North Ridge, Attempt and Tragedy
Birch Mountain, north ridge, attempt and tragedy. I had scoped out a line on this long ridge and questioned Sierra ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, East Fuller Butte, Walking with Walt
East Fuller Butte, Walking with Walt. After three false starts over 18 months, two due to 110°+ summer temperatures and one due ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Obelisk, Far Out and Other New Routes
The Obelisk, Far Out and other new routes. Lucho Rivera and I enjoyed several summer adventures in the rock-climbing wonderland ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Mt. Tyndall, East-Facing Grave
On August 25, 2002, Becka Bracy and I intended to do the 5.8 East Chimney as a date climb. A date climb is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Arizona, Grand Canyon, Clay Tank Castle, First Ascent
Grand Canyon, Clay Tank Castle, first ascent. Andy Martin, while searching topo maps for high points, discovered that the second ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, various activity. In 2003 Paul Ross and partners added 23 multipitch routes in the southwest desert, 18 of which were on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, The Three Gargoyles
The Three Gargoyles. This new tower route in Arches National Park is on the same formation as Zenyatta Endrada, around ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, Arch Canyon, Mud Shark, How Big a Boy are You; and The Fortress, The Poop Chute
Arch Canyon, Mud Shark, How Big a Boy are You; and The Fortress, The Poop Chute. Arch Canyon, one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Great White Throne, New Route
Great White Throne, new route. In mid-November, my brother Jonathan Smoot and I climbed a moderate new seven-pitch route up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Zion: New Routes and Speed Ascents
I was fortunate in 2003 to have good partners and lots of climbing time in Zion N.P. My season started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Rapid Ascents and Enchainments
Rocky Mountain National Park, rapid ascents and enchainments. On the Diamond of Long’s Peak in early July, Tommy Caldwell ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Cheap Hooker
Cheap Hooker. The Black Canyon hosts some of the country’s most adventurous rock climbs and is notorious for epics, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Woke Up Punk
Woke Up Punk. Zack Smith and I climbed a new 10-pitch route in the Black Canyon in the fall. Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Wishmaker, First Free Ascent
Wishmaker, first free ascent. In September Topher Donahue and I masde the first free ascent onsight of Wishmaker (IV 5.11+R [5.10...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Hallucinogen Wall, Free Attempt
Hallucinogen Wall, free attempt. In September and October I tried to free climb this route twice. On the first attempt, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall Free
Charm School Boutique and Dylan Wall free. In spring 2003 Allan Porter and I completed a new line on North Chasm ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Grand Teton National Park, Ice Conditions
Ice conditions. The most-classic ice routes of Grand Teton National Park melted out for the second year in a row. ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Traverse, First Winter Ascent
Grand Traverse, first winter ascent. On January 24, 2004, after more than three weeks of unseasonably dry and warm weather, two parties ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, The Golden Pillar, and Other New Teton Free Climbs
Grand Teton, The Golden Pillar and other new Teton free climbs. On July 11 Hans Johnstone and I opened a classic, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Wyoming, South Fork of Shoshone River, Needle Mountain, North Face
Needle Mountain, north face. To climb the north face of Needle Mountain (12,106') has long been a goal of mine. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Idaho, Old Hyndman Peak, Bear/Chicken Variation
Old Hyndman Peak, Bear/Chicken Variation. Brian Wood and I set out in early October 2000 to explore the northeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Idaho, Peak 11, 308', White Line Couloir
Peak 11, 308', White Line Couloir. In May, Travis Michaelis, Abe Dickerson, and I made the first complete ascent of the 1,200...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Borah Peak, Psycho Therapy
On September 18, following the first major snow of the year, Brian Wood and I established Psycho Therapy (1,200', 5.9+ M6 AI4) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Idaho, Bell Mountain, Hell's Bells
Bell Mountain, Hell's Bells. Brian Wood and I took advantage of a cold spell in early June, 2002, to establish Hell’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Montana, Mt. Brown, Mile of Smiles
Mt. Brown, Mile of Smiles. The gullies on the lower northwest face of Mt. Brown (8,365'), in Glacier National Park, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Seward Peninsula, Various Ascents
In April I climbed the east face of Mt. Osborne (4,714') with Phillip Hofstetter. The climb was 2,500' of moderate 45° ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Alaska Range, Geographical Note
Geographical note: While the well-known peaks in Denali National Park are often called “the Alaska Range,” these peaks form just ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Various New Routes
Various new routes. Between March 29 and April 7,2002, Rich Chappell, Jose Rueter, Mike Sterling, and I made first ascents in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Balchen, West Face
Mt. Balchen, west face. In early March Michael Williams and I landed on the west side of the dry Gillam ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Delta Range, Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball
Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball. On August 12 I laid eyes on Bethan Gilmartin for the first time. August 13 found us ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2003 mountaineering season was eclipsed by the tragic crash of a McKinley Air Service ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004