American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, La Esfinge, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha
La Esfinge, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha. On June 18, Slovaks Dusan Beranek, Rado Staruch, and I reached the top ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, La Esfinge, Southeast Face, The Furious Gods
La Esfinge, southeast face, The Furious Gods. On January 1, 2003 Jeff Beaulieu and Vincent Légaré, of Quebec, Canada, reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, La Esfinge, El Diente de la Esfinge
La Esfinge, El Diente de la Esfinge. In March 2003 Boud Docter (Holland), Geoff Hall (Australia), and Dave Lucas (U.K.) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Este, En el Alto, el Viento sera Nuestra Recompensa, to Summit Ridge
Chacraraju Este, En el Alto, el Viento sera Nuestra Recompensa, to summit ridge. Aymeric Clouet and I took two days ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Norte and Este, Alexandra and Adam's Variation
Huandoy Norte and Este, Alexandra and Adam’s Variation. I arrived in Peru with the idea of climbing all four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Sur, 11-Second Descent
Huandoy Sur, 11-second descent. In 1997 Frenchmen Jérôme Blanc-Gras and Yannick Graziani made the second ascent of the French ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chopicalqui, Significant Repeats
Chopicalqui, significant repeats. The Spanish climber Jordi Corominas made a rare repeat and possibly the first solo of what is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Nevado Ulta, Personal Jesus
In August, Jim Earl and I established a new route up the 1,000- meter north face of Nevado Ulta. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta, West-Northwest Face
Nevado Ulta, west-northwest face. Previously unreported and scarcely known is an August 1985 ascent of an ice-and-mixed line, thought to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Copa, South Ridge
Nevado Copa, South Ridge. From June 13-16, an expedition led by Valerio Bertoglio, with UIAGM guides Fabrizio Manoni, Enrico Rosso, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Tocllaraju, MGLA to Northwest Ridge
Tocllaraju, MGLA to Northwest Ridge. On July1 Mitja Glescic, and I climbed a new route on the west face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Chaupijanca, Shicra, West Face and Southeast Ridge
Shicra, west face and southeast ridge. On July 5 Evelio Echevarria, Consuelo Amorós (my wife), and I left the mining ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Nomenclature in the Huayhuash
Nomenclature in the Huayhuash. Since the Cordillera Huayhuash was first surveyed in 1927 by the American Geographic Society expedition, confusion over ...
AAJ
Notes
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca Summary
Jirishanca summary. The impressive southeast aspect of Jirishanca (6,094m [sometimes given as 6,126m]) was a focal point of Huayhuash activity ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca Suerte to East Buttress
Jirishanca, Suerte to East Buttress. During July 11-21 Italians Stefano DeLuca, Alessandro Piccini, and Paolo Stoppini (with Valerio Poggiani at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupaja, Limitless Madness to Summit Ridge
Yerupaja, Limitless Madness to summit ridge. My latest adventure began at the end of June. We were three Slovenians—Matevz ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Puscanturpa Norte, Various Activity
Puscanturpa Norte, various activity. July saw multiple teams camped below Puscanturpa Norte (5,652m), hoping to complete routes on the columned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Yanashinga, West Face
Yanashinga, West Face. One could consider Yanashinga (5,250m) the most technical and dizzying mountain of the Tíclio group. It ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Yanashinga, Direct South Face
Yanashinga, Direct South Face. José Li Linway, Diego Fernández, and I left the village of San Mateo (3,300m), arriving ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Nevado Huaguruncho, Tancash
Nevado Huaguruncho, Tancash. Huaguruncho, meaning “the white tusk,” is the 24th highest mountain in Peru (according to web pages that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcabamba, Nevado Weqqe Suruchi, A Life Less Ordinary
Nevado Weqqe Suruchi, A Life Less Ordinary. The Panta Group lies in a sparsely populated area and consists of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcabamba, Pumasillo Group, Multiple Ascents
Pumasillo Group, multiple ascents. Sean Easton and I spent 20 days in the Pumasillo group of the Cordillera Vilcabamba, in south-central ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Chumpe (Jatunriti) Traverse, Colquecruz 1 Attempt (Alcamarinayoc)
Chumpe (Jatunriti) traverse, Colquecruz 1 attempt (Alcamarinayoc). Intrigued by the scarcity of information despite extensive research, Amy Bullard and I spent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Peru, Cordillera Apolobamba
Ritipata, Palomani Grande, Palomani Tranca Central, and other ascents. John Biggar again visited the remote Peruvian Apolobamba, and as in 2002, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Venezuela, Matawi Tepui (a.k.a. Kukenan Tepui), Attempt and Exploration
Matawi Tepui (a.k.a. Kukenan Tepui), attempt and exploration. In the first week of February, climbers Federico Pizani, Luis ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Venezuela, Acopán Tepui, Pizza, Chocolate, y Cerveza
Acopán Tepui. Pizza, Chocolate y Cerveza. In March, back in Venezuela again, we were preparing for another intense tepui (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Venezuela, Acopán Tepui, Pizza, Chocolate, y Cerveza
Acopán Tepui, Unate Arête (a.k.a. Racquel Welsh Arête). Louise Thomas, Dave Turnball, Steve Mayers, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Guyana, Roraima, The Scorpion Wall
Roraima, The Scorpion Wall. My dream of climbing a tepui began more than 10 years ago. An article in National Geographic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Bolivia, Illusión, Illusión Congelada
Ilusión, Ilusión Congelada. On June 14 we established a new route on Ilusión (5,330m) in the Condoriri Group ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, Barrador Intimo; Pico Del Norte, C'est la Vie, and Other Ascents
Ancohuma, Barrador Intimo; Pico del Norte, C’est la Vie, and other ascents. Climbing early in the year on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Citta di Rieti, First Ascent
Citta di Rieti, first ascent. In January 2002 Italians Eliano Pessa and Arnaldo Milesmi, with Argentinean Patricio Cardù (Argentinean Federico Aguero ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Cerro el Cóndor, Possible First Ascent and Other Ascents
Cerro El Cóndor, possible first ascent and other ascents. In February and March some friends and I climbed Antofalla, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Elqui Valley and Los Corrales Valley, First Ascents
Elqui Valley and Los Corrales Valley, first ascents. In the upper Elqui Valley and on the Chilean-Argentinean border east of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Ojos del Salado, Scientific Determination of Highest Point
Ojos del Salado, scientific determination of highest point. Ojos del Salado is, at 6,879m (IGMA), the highest mountain in Chile, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Mercedario, La Conquista del Poniente
Mercedario, La Conquista del Poniente. This mountain (6,770m), in Provincia de San Juan, is similar to Aconcagua in height, glaciers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Nevado del Plomo, El Sendero del Léon and East Ridge
Nevado del Plomo, El Sendero del Léon and east ridge. A remarkable ascent has been made on the 6,050m (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Erika and Yanina, First Ascents, Gemelos Este, Possible New Route
Erika and Yanina, first ascents; Gemelos Este, possible new route. Gemelos (The Twins) is a mountain near Las Cuevas and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, 2003-2004 Season Overview
Aconcagua, 2003-2004 season overview. This season Aconcagua beat its record for visitation. The estimated number of people in Aconcagua Provincial ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, Mobitel's Swallow—Johan's Route
Aconcagua, Mobitel’s Swallow-Johan’s Route. Slovene mountaineers Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed the south face of Aconcagua by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Avellano Tower, Conquistador Ridge
Dave Anderson, Steve Herlighy, and Jamie Selda (USA) and Nacho Grez (Chile) spent 27 days in the Avellano Valley, 80 miles south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Season Overview
Season overview. The 2003-04 Patagonia season was one of marked contrasts, with much bad weather and heavy snowfall, but with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Punta Herron, Spigolo dei Bimbi, Second Ascent
Punta Herron, Spigolo dei Bimbi, second ascent. On the evening of October 30 David Fasel, Ueli Steck, Ralph Weber, and I, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Guillaumet, New Route
Aguja Guillaumet, new route. Marcin Szczotka and Mariusz Nowak established a new route on the west face of Aguja Guillaumet, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Mermoz, New Variation
Aguja Mermoz, new variation. On February 7, 2004, Maciej Ciesielski and I added five new pitches, onsight at VII UIAA (5.10d) with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Linea de Eleganza (Elegant Line)
Fitz Roy, Linea de Eleganza (Elegant Line). True alpinism isn’t solely the discovery of new walls, of new lines, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Slovak Route, Third Ascent and First Free Ascent, Desmochada, El Facon
Fitz Roy, Slovak Route, third ascent and first free ascent; Desmochada, El Facón. Patagonian weather seemed like it was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Rafael, Quilombo
Aguja Rafael, Quilombo. When Zack Smith and I arrived at the Chalten Massif in Argentine Patagonia, the weather had been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Rafael, Artibelleza, First Free Ascent
Aguja Rafael, Artibelleza, first free ascent. Patagonia is always a crapshoot. Windy Patagonia ended up having a spell of great ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Saint Exupery, Tical, and Other Ascents
Saint Exupery, Tical, and other ascents. This year’s seven-week trip to Patagonia didn’t start well. I flew out ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Saint Exupery, Austrian Ridge, First Free Ascent
Aguja Saint Exupery, Austrian Ridge, first free ascent. Beginning on January 29, ten days after we arrived in Chalten, Jonny Copp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004