American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

479 Records

Title Publication Year
PreFace
By coincidence I took over the editorship of the American Alpine Journal the year the American Alpine Club turned 100. To ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2004
The Crystal Snake, Overlooking the Everest Circus and Yet a World Away, A Rivulet of Water Ice Plunges Down the Huge North Face of Nuptse, Asia, Nepal
The Crystal Snake Overlooking the Everest circus and yet a world away, a rivulet of water ice plunges down the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Moonlight Sonata, On the Oft-Attempted Southeast Buttress, Two Russians Define Commitment, Deprivation, and Triumph of the Spirit while Making the First Ascent of 7,804-meter Nuptse East, Asia, Nepal
Moonlight Sonata On the oft-attempted southeast buttress, two Russians define commitment, deprivation, and triumph of the spirit while making the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Walking the Fence, The Southern Picket Enchainment, Washington
Walking the Fence The Southern Picket enchainment, Washington Wayne Wallace Let’s face it: we don’t live in the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Non C'é Due Senza Tre, The Great Line on Nalumasortoq Goes Free, Greenland
Non C’é Due Senza Tre The great line on Nalumasortoq goes free, Greenland. Micah Dash Sitting in the Camp 4 parking ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Jirishanca, A Climbing History of the Hummingbird Peak's Southeast Face, Peru
JIRISHANCA A climbing history of the Hummingbird Peak’s southeast face, Peru. Jeremy Frimer No range is more identified by ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Fear and Loathing, Alpine-Style Suffering on Jirischanca's Great Southeast Face
Fear and Loathing Alpine-style suffering on Jirishanca’s great southeast face. Nick Bullock We started to climb at one in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Tambo, Churros Y Amigos, One Crazy Adventure on the Southeast Face of Jirishanca
Tambo, Churros Y Amigos One crazy adventure on the southeast face of Jirishanca. Didier Jourdain After a last long night ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
The Endless Summer Expedition, A Quest to Lose Oneself Between Alaska and Antarctica
The Endless Summer Expedition A quest to lose oneself between Alaska and Antarctica. Alun Hubbard In 1999 Dave Hildes and I ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Fenris, Notes from a Dream Fulfilled in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica
Fenris Notes from a dream fulfilled in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Mike Libecki Dreams? Goals? Fantasies? These words may sound ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Between the Light and the Shadow, Struggling with Wind and Cold while Putting Up the Bulgarian Route on the North Face of Thalay Sagar, Garhwal, Asia, India
Between The Light and The Shadow Struggling with wind and cold while putting up the Bulgarian route on the north ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
The Dutch Route, The Northeastern, Sunnier Side of Thalay Sagar Yields Its First Complete Route
The Dutch Route The northeastern, sunnier side of Thalay Sagar yields its first complete route. Mike van Berkel The northeast ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
One-Way Ticket, Surrealistic Purity on the New French Route up the North Face of Thalay Sagar
One-Way Ticket Surrealistic purity on the new French route up the north face of Thalay Sagar. Patrice Glairon-Rappaz I emerge ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Hajji Brakk & K7, Alone Among the Granite Spires of the Charakusa Valley, Asia, Pakistan
Hajji Brakk & K7 Alone among the granite spires of the Charakusa Vallley, Pakistan. Steve House “Malo levo,” Marko requested, and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Annapurna III, Expeditioning the British Way During the First Ascent of the Southwest Ridge, Asia, Nepal
Annapurna III Expeditioning the British Way during the first ascent of the southwest ridge, Nepal. By Kenton Cool Slumped in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
Mixed Messages, Is Hard M-Sport-Climbing Influencing High-Standard Alpinism?
Mixed Messages Is hard M-sport-climbing influencing high-standard alpinism? Edited by David Dornian In 2002 the American Alpine Journal published a thought ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
No Siesta, The First Free (Dry Tooling) Ascent of Perhaps the Hardest Mixed Route in the Alps, On the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses, France
No Siesta The first free (dry tooling) ascent of perhaps the hardest mixed route in the Alps, on the north ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
North Twin Revisited
Among North American alpinists, the north face of North Twin is as steeped in climbing mythology as the most famous ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
A Mountain Unveiled
If someone told you he had just run a 10-minute mile you would shrug your shoulders and say “so what.” ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Trends and New Routes
Washington, trends and new routes. The summer of 2003 unfolded as the driest in a century, with rainfall 70-85% below normal. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment
Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment. In July this long-standing east-to-west challenge was completed by Mark Bunker, Colin Haley, and Wayne ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, The Chopping Block, First Winter Ascent
The Chopping Block, first winter ascent. On February 14, 2004, I hiked in via Goodell Creek and The Barrier to climb the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Inspiration Peak, First Winter Ascent
Inspiration Peak, first winter ascent. On February 7 Forrest Murphy and I left the Goodell Creek trailhead early and, using snowshoes, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Graybeard, North Face Routes
Graybeard, north face routes. In November 2002, I climbed two separate routes on the north face of Graybeard, both of which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Easy-Heather Traverse, Repeat with Variations
Easy-Heather Traverse, repeat with variations. In July 2001 I traversed the ridgeline of peaks from Easy Pass to Heather Pass along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge
Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge. So ends my fascination this year with remote Mt. Logan. My first solo foray led to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Bonanza Peak, Three-Summit Traverse
Bonanza Peak, three-summit traverse. On August 21 and 22 Kurt Buch- wald, Peter Avolio, and I completed the first ridge traverse (V 5.7/5.8) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Formidable, Complete East Ridge
Mt. Formidable, complete East Ridge. On July 30 Kurt Buchwald and I completed the ridgecrest traverse (IV 5.7) from the Spider-Formidable Col ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Witch Doctor Wall, Voodoo Wall, and Solaris
Witch Doctor Wall, Voodoo Wall and Solaris. The summer saw two aid climbs put up on Exfoliation Dome’s 1,100' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route
Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route. Jeff Hansell and I made this new route (IV 5.9) on September 10,2001. Little Big Chief ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Blockhouse, East Face Route
Blockhouse, East Face Route. On June 14 Ron Cotman and I completed an aesthetic, complicated route on the Blockhouse’s east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Dragontail Peak, First Winter Ascent of Serpentine Ridge
Dragontail Peak, first winter ascent of Serpentine Ridge. Ade Miller (Alpine Club, U.K.) and I climbed Dragontail Peak (8,840') ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Snoqualmie, North Face, First Free Ascent and Speed Ascent of New York Gully
Mt. Snoqualmie, North Face, first free ascent and speed ascent of New York Gully. Thanks to a weak snow year ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, various activity. The big news in the Valley this year, once again, was the freeing of big wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Ribbon Falls Area, New Routes
Ribbon Falls area, new routes. Nearly a decade after the passing of my father, I was searching for the ideal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, West Buttress, First Free Ascent; Free Zodiac, Second Free Ascent
El Capitan, West Buttress, first free ascent; Free Zodiac, second free ascent. I get more obsessed with Yosemite every year. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Zodiac, Warp Speed and Free Variation
El Capitan, Zodiac, warp speed and free variation. After an exploratory ascent in spring 2002 with Valley local Ammon McNeely, I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Ruby Wall Cirque, Boom Town and Billy from the Hills
Ruby Wall Cirque, Boom Town and Billy from the Hills. In June 2000 Jason Lakey and I completed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Mills, Northwest Ridge
Mt. Mills, Northwest Ridge. Jackie Carroll and I climbed this spectacular ridge in an unintended two-day push from Rock Creek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Birch Mountain, North Ridge, Attempt and Tragedy
Birch Mountain, north ridge, attempt and tragedy. I had scoped out a line on this long ridge and questioned Sierra ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, East Fuller Butte, Walking with Walt
East Fuller Butte, Walking with Walt. After three false starts over 18 months, two due to 110°+ summer temperatures and one due ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Obelisk, Far Out and Other New Routes
The Obelisk, Far Out and other new routes. Lucho Rivera and I enjoyed several summer adventures in the rock-climbing wonderland ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Mt. Tyndall, East-Facing Grave
On August 25, 2002, Becka Bracy and I intended to do the 5.8 East Chimney as a date climb. A date climb is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Arizona, Grand Canyon, Clay Tank Castle, First Ascent
Grand Canyon, Clay Tank Castle, first ascent. Andy Martin, while searching topo maps for high points, discovered that the second ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, various activity. In 2003 Paul Ross and partners added 23 multipitch routes in the southwest desert, 18 of which were on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, The Three Gargoyles
The Three Gargoyles. This new tower route in Arches National Park is on the same formation as Zenyatta Endrada, around ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, Arch Canyon, Mud Shark, How Big a Boy are You; and The Fortress, The Poop Chute
Arch Canyon, Mud Shark, How Big a Boy are You; and The Fortress, The Poop Chute. Arch Canyon, one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Great White Throne, New Route
Great White Throne, new route. In mid-November, my brother Jonathan Smoot and I climbed a moderate new seven-pitch route up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
Zion: New Routes and Speed Ascents
I was fortunate in 2003 to have good partners and lots of climbing time in Zion N.P. My season started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Rapid Ascents and Enchainments
Rocky Mountain National Park, rapid ascents and enchainments. On the Diamond of Long’s Peak in early July, Tommy Caldwell ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2004