American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

415 Records

Title Publication Year
Nepal, New Peaks for the Autumn of 2002
New peaks for the autumn of 2002. To coincide with the start of the post-monsoon season 2002 the Ministry of Culture, Tourism ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
Asia, Nepal, Rowaling Himal, Tengi Ragi Tau, First Ascent of Newly Opened Peak
Tengi Ragi Tau, first ascent of newly opened peak. In the spring of 2000 I saw Tengi Ragi Tau (6943m) for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Rowaling Himal, Teng Kang Poche, Pre-Monsoon Attempts
Teng Kang Poche, pre-monsoon attempts. Taking advantage of the recent addition to the permitted list of peaks of this splendid 6,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Rowaling Himal, Teng Kang Poche, Northeast Pillar Attempt, and Tengi Ragi Tau South, South Ridge
Teng Kang Poche, northeast Pillar attempt, and Tengi Ragi Tau South, south ridge. Our expedition lasted from October 1 to November 8. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Rowaling Himal, Kwangde Lho (6,187m), New North Face Route
Kwangde Lho (6,187m), new north face route. Koji Ito and I made the seventh ascent of the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna I Traverse
Annapurna I traverse. Unquestionably the best climb of the season was the Annapurna I traverse by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Alberto ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal, Gaugiri, First Ascent
Gaugiri, first ascent. Jim Frush (then-president of the AAC) and I went exploring for an obscure 6,110m (20,046') peak called ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal, Pokharkan, First Ascent
Pokharkan, first ascent. Sherpa Panima Lama (51) and I (61) made the first ascent of Pokharkan (6,346m) on October 31. We climbed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal, Pokharkan, First Ascent of the South Face
Pokharkan, first ascent of the south face. The Alpine Club Damodar expedition was led by Steve Town with Dick Isherwood ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mustang Himal, Arniko Chuli, First Ascent and Survey
Arniko Chuli, first ascent and survey. In the summer of 2001, I began topographical research of the mountains west of Lo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Nuptse, South Pillar Attempt
Nuptse, south pillar attempt. The Nuptse International South Face Expedition (a.k.a. the Slo/Can/Am—emphasis on Slo) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Everest, Summary of the Spring Season
Everest, summary of the spring season, questions on the use of bottled oxygen and sedan chairs. Altogether 46 teams sent 155 people ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Cholatse North Face New Route Attempt
Cholatse north face new route attempt. The Corean Alpine Club Cholatse Expedition led by Kang, Sung-woo departed from Seoul August 24. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Nagpai Gosum, Chinese Military Encounter
Nagpai Gosum, Chinese military encounter. My partner Jeff Lamoureux and I traveled to Kathmandu on September 5 to attempt a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Khumbu, Nagpai Gosum I, Background on the Encounter with Chinese Soldiers
Khumbu, Nagpai Gosum I, background on the encounter with Chinese soldiers. David Morton’s experience was the first incident of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Khumbu, Peak 41, First Ascent
Khumbu, Peak 41, first ascent. In the middle of October a Slovenian expedition of six climbers made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Kyajo Ri, First Recorded Ascent of Newly Opened Peak
Kyajo Ri, first recorded ascent of newly opened peak. Sitting at home in front of the computer for a week ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Nuptse East 1, South Face Pillar Attempt
Nuptse East 1, south face pillar attempt. Snow conditions made climbing very difficult for a noted Russian mountaineer, Valeri Babanov (37), in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Numri First Ascent
Numri first ascent. Numri is south of Cho Polu and east of Chukung village. The 6,677m mountain was first climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Ombigaichen, First Recorded Ascent of Newly Opened Peak and First Winter Ascent
Ombigaichen, first recorded ascent of newly opened peak and first winter ascent. Ombigaichen (6,340m) is one of the new trekking ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Tinjung Attempt, Pandra and Danga First Ascents
The Danish Janak Himal Expedition comprised Allan Christensen, Bo Belvedere Christensen, Jan Mathorne, and myself as leader . All had made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Janak Himal, Maoist Encounters Spring Season Commentary
Maoist encounters spring season commentary. Insecurity for people throughout Nepal due to an armed rebellion by Maoists, who have become ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
Janak Himal, Maoist Encounters Fall Season Commentary
Maoist encounters fall season commentary. There were encounters by two expeditions, one in the Kangchenjunga area in far eastern Nepal ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
Asia, China, Karakoram, K2, Winter Attempt on the North Ridge
K2, winter attempt on the north ridge. The Winter Netia K2 Expedition (Netia is the biggest Polish TV company and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, China, Karakoram, Chinese Tien-Shan Range, Reconnaissance
Chinese Tien-Shan Range, reconnaissance. Four of us—Anatoly Dzhulie (leader), David Lekhtman, Vladimir Leonenko, and myself, Otto Chkhetiani—explored the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, China, Sichuan, Minya Konka, Eighth Ascent and New Route on Nearby Eva Shan
Minya Konka, eighth ascent and new route on nearby Eva Shan. If you love sunny places, Sichuan isn’t the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, China, Sichuan, Siguniang, First Ascent of North Face
Siguniang, first ascent of north face. Taking 6 days, Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made the first ascent of the north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, China, Sichuan, Jarjinjabo Mountains, Kham Region, Various First Ascents
Jarjinjabo Mountains, Kham Region, various first ascents. In October Peter Athans, Robert Mackinlay, Hilaree Nelson, Jared Ogden, Kasha Rigby, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, China, Sichuan, Dangchezhengla (5,833m), First Ascent
Dangchezhengla (5,833m), first ascent. Two climbers from the Hengduan Mountains Club (HMC)—Kiyoaki Miyagawa and Junta Murayama—made the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, China, Yunnan Province, Hengduan Shan, Ascent of Peak 4,750, Attempt on Baimang Shan, and Reconnaissance of Meilixueshan and Habaxueshan Areas
Yunnan Province, Hengduan Shan, ascent of Peak 4,750, attempt on Baimang Shan, and reconnaissance of Meilixueshan and Habaxueshan areas. During April ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Kangri Garpo, Reconnaissance of Ruoni (6,882m)
Kangri Garpo, reconnaissance of Ruoni (6,882m). The Alpine Club of Kobe University obtained a permit from the China Mountaineering Association (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Nyainqentanglha Range, Sepu Kangri, First Ascent
Sepu Kangri, first ascent. A seven-member team of mountaineers from the U.S. made the first ascent of Sepu Kangri ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Nyainqentanglha Range, Nyanchen Thanglha Southeast Summit, Probable First Ascent
Nyanchen Thanglha southeast summit, probable first ascent. From April 12 to June 1 I guided an international expedition to the Nyanchen Thanglha (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Shimokangri, First Ascent
Shimokangri, first ascent. The Alpine Club of POSCO (the largest steel mill in Korea) made the first ascent of Shimokangri (7,204...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mt. Everest, North Face Snowboarding Attempt
Mt. Everest, north face snowboarding attempt. Marc (“Marco”) Siffredi, the well known 23-year-old French professional snowboarder from Chamonix, came to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mt. Everest, Snowboard Descents from 2001
Mt. Everest, snowboard descents from 2001. On May 22,2001 I reached the summit of Mt. Everest without the help of artificial oxygen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Pumori North Ridge
Pumori north ridge. A new route was successfully forged on the Tibetan side of Everest’s 7,161m (23,494') neighbor Pumori. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Gyachung Kang, North Face, Second Ascent of Slovenian Route
Gyachung Kang, north face, second ascent of Slovenian Route. Mr. Yasushi Yamanoi and his wife Taeko were hospitalized in Tokyo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Ngozumpa Kang II, West Face, Bearzi Death
Ngozumpa Kang II, west face, Bearzi death. Two Americans, Mike Bearzi and Bruce Miller, planned to make the first attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Cho Oyu Ski Descent and Discussion of 8,000-meter Ski Descents
Cho Oyu ski descent and discussion of 8,000-meter ski descents. Fewer than 40 people have skied from an elevation of 8,000m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Kaqur-Kangri First Ascent, No-Trace Efforts, and Survey of the Region
Kaqur-Kangri first ascent, no-trace efforts, and survey of the region. Five members of Doshisha University Alpine Club made the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Mongolia, Central Mongolia, Ulaan Bataar, The Bombadorj Arête and The Lite Path
Central Mongolia, Ulaan Bataar, The Bombadorj Arête and The Lite Path. Our five-person team pioneered a 1,600’, 12-pitch route, which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Mongolia, Mongolian Altai, Huiten, First Winter Ascent
Mongolian Altai, Huiten, first winter ascent. In winter 1998, we skied 400 km through Russia, Kazakhstan, China, and Mongolia—making the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Mongolia, Siykhem Nuruu National Park, Exploration and a First Ascent
Siykhem Nuruu National Park, exploration and a first ascent. Our six member team from the north of England comprised Ken ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Mongolia, Tavan Bogd Range, Probable New Route on Kowalewski, and Other Early Repeats
Tavan Bogd Range, probable new route on Kowalewski, and other early repeats. The primary aim of the British Heart of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Australasia, Irian Jaya, Puncak Jaya, New Route and First Snowboard Descent; Carstensz Pyramid, New Route
Puncak Jaya, new route and first snowboard descent; Carstensz Pyramid, new route. On April 23, Corey Rich, Rob Milne, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
American Safe Climbing Association, Activity Report, 1999-2002
American Safe Climbing Association Activity report, 1999-2002. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) replaces bad bolts and anchors throughout the ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance Project, HEC Porter Assistance Expanded to Africa and South America
Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance Project HEC porter assistance expanded to Africa and South America. On September 17, as the many climbers waited ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
International Year of Mountains
International Year of Mountains What did it mean? What did it do? To most of us who read this journal, ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
The Mountain Institute, Summary of 2002 Activities
The Mountain Institute Summary of 2002 activities. The Mountain Institute (www.mountain.org) is a non-profit organization whose mission is to ...
AAJ
Notes
2003