American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

415 Records

Title Publication Year
Siguniang
Sometimes a scene remains indelibly imprinted on one’s mind . On April 5, 2002 I came across such a scene. I was ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Jarjinjabo
Jarjinjabo New routes, old worlds; and other epiphanies from the Tibetan borderlands. Edited by Peter Athans It felt like jumping ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Alone
Beforehand, there was a feeling of fear, fear that I could make a mistake. If a hold broke, if I ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
A Code to Climb By
A Code to Climb By Leading climbers gather in Tyrolia to shape the ethical foundation of their sport. Eliza Moran ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Freedom, With Boundaries
Freedom, With Boundaries The following is condensed from an opening address to the delegates of the Innsbruck Congress. Tom Frost ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practices in Mountain Sports
The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practice in Mountain Sports “Stretch your limits, lift your spirits and aim for the top” ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
North America, United States, Washington, Climbing Trends and New Routes
Washington climbing, trends and new routes. In recent years alpine climbing in the Washington Cascades has become less exploratory. First ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Washington, Silver Star Mountain, Gato Negro
Silver Star Mountain, Gato Negro. On June 21, 2001 Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston, both of Mazama, WA, established a probable new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Washington, Sloan Peak, Northwest Buttress
Sloan Peak, Northwest Buttress. In late September 2000 Mike Preiss and I completed what we suspect is a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Washington, Mount Index, North Norwegian Buttress
Mount Index, North Norwegian Buttress, Voodoo Proj. Over five days in mid-July Blair Williams, with William Tharpe, Todd Karner, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activities
Yosemite Valley, various activity. While it has not been on the free-climbing cutting edge for decades, Yosemite still ranks as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Quo Vadis
El Capitan, Quo Vadis. During the night of November 20-21 Jacek Czyz, solo, finished Quo Vadis (VI 5.9 A4/A4+), a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Salathé, One-day Free Ascents
Salathé, one-day free ascents. In December 2001 I was in a hospital bed after severing my left index finger in a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, The Nose, Speed Record
El Capitan, The Nose, speed record. Events leading up to the record speed ascent of the Nose in 2 hours and 48 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Free Climbing
Free climbing. Yosemite 2002 was the setting for what I can only call a dream season. In the spring Jake Whittaker ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, West Fuller Butte, The Twisted Bit
Sierra Nevada West Fuller Butte, The Twisted Bit. Doniel Drazin and Brandon Thau completed an eight pitch route (IV 5.12b) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Third Recess Peak, Serving Detention
Third Recess Peak, Serving Detention. The northeast side of Third Recess Peak features two striking arêtes that merge near ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Castle Rock Spire, Cinco de Mayo
Castle Rock Spire, Cinco deMayo. Bruce Bindner and I completed a 12-pitch route (V 5.10+ A3) on Castle Rock Spire, slightly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, Commanche Ridge
Grand Canyon National Park, Comanche Point, Comanche Ridge. In November 2000, while hiking the Escalante Route, I couldn’t take my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Arizona, Lost Horizon, First Free Ascent
Lost Horizon, first free ascent. On January 29 Ty Mack and I made the first free ascent of the stunning Lost ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, various activity. Significant new routes were established on the Navajo Sandstone of the Colorado Plateau in 2002. Paul Ross, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Mudrosity
San Rafael Swell, Mudstrosity. In March Strappo Hughes and I climbed the Mudstrosity (350', V- A3+). This tower is in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, The Titan, Sundevil Chimney, First Free Ascent
Potash Road/Wall Street, Desert Spindrift. In the middle of September Nathan Martin and I climbed a new route that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Harold Walton, 1912-2002
Fisher Towers, The Titan, Sundevil Chimney, first free ascent. The Fisher Towers represent a Daliesque dream barely metamorphosed into rock. ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Westwater Canyon, Arch Tower, Dry Heaves
Westwater Canyon, Arch Tower, Dry Heaves. In June Bill Duncan and John Burnham made the first ascent of Arch Tower, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Notch Peak: Appetite for Destruction, La Fin du Monde, and Empty Sky
Notch Peak is located approximately 45 miles west of Delta on U.S. 6/50. Directions to it are given in James Garrett’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Texas Tower, East Face
Texas Tower has a big reputation, as it is one of the tallest pure sandstone towers in the desert southwest. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Kolob Canyon, Nagunt Mesa, Cos the Boss
Kolob Canyon, Nagunt Mesa, Cos the Boss. In late October and early November 2001 I did a new wall route in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Idiodyssey
IdiOdyssey. In April James Garrett and I climbed a new route (V 5.10 A2+) via a crack system on the 1,000' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Big Bend Gendarme, Mean High Tide
Big Bend Gendarme, Mean High Tide. This route climbs the obvious crack system on the southwest face, facing the Big ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Angel's Landing, Mostly American Butte
Angel’s Landing, Mostly American Route. It’s getting harder to find a new route on Angel’s Landing. This ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mt. Moroni, Voice from the Dust
Mt. Moroni, Voice from the Dust. In November Garrett Kemper, Tommy Chandler, and I climbed a new route (IV 5.11c) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, The Sentinel, Farmer Brown
The Sentinel, Farmer Brown. This route (V 5.10+ A3+), by Nate Brown and Joe French, climbs a thin crack system on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Bridge Mountain, Estrogen Enterprise
Bridge Mountain, Estrogen Enterprise. This route climbs the finlike buttress on Bridge Mountain’s southwest face, below the saddle on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Left Mary, The Insider
Left Mary, The Insider. The Insider (IV+ 5.10 A1), established by Bryan Bird and me in 2001, entails nine pitches on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Notchtop Area, Special K; and Forbidden Peak, Garmar
Notchtop area, Special K; and Forbidden Peak, Garmar. On June 24 Krista Javoronok and I climbed a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Cathedral Wall, Sublime Buttress
Cathedral Wall, Sublime Buttress. In May Ryan Jennings and I completed the first free ascent of an unreported route we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, McHenry's Peak, The Kidnapper Van
McHenry’s Peak, The Kidnapper Van. In the Glacier Gorge cirque, Justin Dubois and I climbed a new free route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, Fuzzy Dice
North Chasm View Wall, Fuzzy Dice. Fuzzy Dice (IV 5.10d/11a) climbs a crack system up the far left side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Hair in My Cheeseburger, Crystal Vision
Hair in My Cheeseburger, CrystalVision. In April Paul Emrick and I headed down the S.O.F.B. Gully on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Great White Wall, Super Wuss and Gouldy Variant
Great White Wall, Super Wuss and Gouldy Variant. In October Kevin Cochran and I climbed a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Great White Wall, Death Camas Dihedrals
Great White Wall, Death Camas Dihedrals. “Back in the saddle,” I mused, as Andy Donson and I took aim at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, South Chasm Wall, Burlgirl
South Chasm Wall, Burlgirl. In March Mike Shepherd and I had a vision of free climbing Bull Girl (5.11 A4). We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Enclosure, Prospect of an End
Sune Tamm-Buckle (“The Young Swede”) and I departed late for a bivy in the moraine, where we proceeded to “get ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Wyoming, Glacier National Park, Mt. Jackson, Shades of Gray and Alpenglow
Glacier National Park, Mt. Jackson, Shades of Gray and Alpenglow. Visiting, with limited time, Anna Jansen sought to climb a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Wyoming, Bitterroot Mountains, Spirolina Tower and Corner with a View
Bitterroot Mountains, Spirolina Tower and Corner With a View. Trapper Creek’s Spirolina Tower was named after its first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Arrigetch Peaks, Various Activities
After a season of work for the Alaska Outward Bound Center, seven O.B. staff and three others spent 18 days, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. McGinnis, East Face, Cutthroat Couloir
Mt. McGinnis, east face, Cutthroat Couloir. In early March Jed Brown and I skied in to attempt the unclimbed direct ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Alaska, Delta Range, Item Peak, North Face
Item Peak, North Face. In February, Jed Brown (18 years old) and I (33) ascended a direct line on the north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Life is still fragile in the rangeæour human vulnerability became painfully evident again ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003