American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

415 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Venezuela, Autana Tepui, First Ascent of Southern Aspect
Autana Tepui, first ascent of southern aspect. This tepui, 400 miles south of Caracas in the Orinocan jungle, was climbed in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Brazil, Recent New Routes
Recent new routes. As of a few years ago the 1970 Leste Route on Pico Maior in Rio de Janeiro was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Pico Gotico, Via del arco
Pico Gotico, Via del Arco. Erik Monasterio, with the French climber Marie France Ducret, added a second route to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Cabeza de Condor, La Promenade des Braves; Huallomen, Duende del Diablo; and Illampu, La Conjuration des Imbecile
Cabeza de Condor, La Promenade des Braves; Huallomen, Duende del Diablo; and Illampu, La Conjuration des Imbecile. Jerome Mercader and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, The Big Wall, The AA Crack
The Big Wall, The AA Crack. After all the usual hassles of overweight and oversized baggage, and of making connections ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Araca Group, various ascents
Araca Group, various ascents. Mike Walker, Cameron Burns (Basalt Bigfoot Coalition), and I spent June 29–July 10 in the Mocoya and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents and Descents
Various ascents and descents. Wade McKoy, Porter Fox, Hal Thomson, Ptor Spriceneiks, and I found ourselves in the Cordillera Quimsa ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, San Juan Province, Agua Negra and Valle del Cura Regions
San Juan Province, Agua Negra and Valle del Cura regions. The Valle del Cura is an interesting glacial valley, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, 2002-2003 Season Overview
Aconcagua, 2002-2003 season overview. Aconcagua Park saw a record 5,519 people enter for trekking or climbing, 20 percent more than last year. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Central Andes and Northern Patagonia, Various Ascents and Ski Descents
Various ascents and ski descents. A dry winter in several areas James Bracken and I were interested in required us ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Central Patagonia, Volcán Melimoyu
Volcán Melimoyu. This ice volcano, exactly 2,400m (7,874') high, is located by the sources of the Palena river in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Central Patagonia, Cerro Castillo, Southeast Face
Cerro Castillo, Southeast Face. Eduardo Mondragón (España), Pablo Crovetto (Chile) and I, Rodrigo Fica (Chile), climbed the Southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Central Patagonia, San Lorenzo Group, Cerro Hermoso, Southwest Summit
San Lorenzo Group, Cerro Hermoso, southwest summit. From a base camp in Rio Oro Valley, Italians Luca Maspes and Diego ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Azara and Cerro Bravo
CerroAzara and Cerro Bravo. These two summits are located just north of Paso del Viento, and are linked by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Adela Group, Cerro Grande
Adela Group, Cerro Grande. In the Fitz Roy Range, in November, Italian Luca Maspes made two solo attempts on Techado ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Torre; Saint Exupery, Chiaro di Luna; and Aguja Rafael, Artebelleza
Cerro Torre; Saint Exupery, Chiaro di Luna; and Aguja Rafael, Artebelleza. The weather in Patagonia this year dished out its ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Mermoz, Vol de Nuit, First Winter Ascent
Aguja Mermoz, Vol de Nuit, first winter ascent. In early August Ian Parnell and I arrived in a cold and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Tehuelche and Supercanaleta, Attempts
Fitz Roy, Tehuelche and Supercanaleta, attempts. I spent a month with Chris Turiano, a very good and strong guy from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Summary of Activity
Chalten Massif, summary of activity. During the austral winter (July-August 2002), French Canadians Martin Bointeau and Claude Gagnon made the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Continental Icecap, Exploration and Ascents
Southern Continental Icecap, exploration and ascents. Chilean climber Camilo Rada, interested in classical andinism, asked me in 2001 for details of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, North Tower of Paine, Los Esclavos del Barometro and Other Ascents
North Tower of Paine, Los Esclavos del Barometro and other ascents. On December 31 Tina DiBatista and I (Slovenians) climbed a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, Second Ascents
Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, second ascent. David Stastny and I, both Czech, repeated the route Riders on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, Attempt and Third Ascent
Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, attempt and third ascent. In November Frenchmen Jerome Arpin and Sylvain Empereur attempted to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, South of Paine, Cerro Balmaceda, West Face, Possible New Route
Cerro Balmaceda, west face, possible new route. In February 2002 Spaniards Iñaki San Vicente and Carlos Garcia de Cortazar made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Tierra del Fuego, Cordillera Darwin, Monte Shipton—Monte Darwin, Naming and Reconnaissance
Monte Shipton-Monte Darwin, naming and reconnaissance. In 1962 my father, Eric Shipton, made the first ascent of the highest peak of ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Summary of Activities
Summary of activities. A total of 68 climbers attempted 4,897m Vinson Massif, including seven women. Unusually poor weather was experienced in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Mt. Vinson, Southwest Face, First Ascent of Double003
Mt. Vinson, southwest face, first ascent of Double003. In 1992 I’d completed the first solo ascent of a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Summary of Activities
Summary of activities. Livingston Island is a rugged mountain massif, home to the highest point of the South Shetland Islands, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Antarctica, Dronning Maud Land, Summary of Activities
Summary of activities. In late January an experienced team of Russian mountaineers flew in to Dronning Maud Land, aiming to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Antarctica, Dronning Maud Land, South Georgia, Various Activity
South Georgia, various activity. Bad weather thwarted attempts by a team off the 15m ketch Gambo to make three first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Africa, Sudan, Kassala Area, Various New Routes
Kassala area, various new routes. Lost in the Sudanese East, only a few kilometers from the border with Eritrea, a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Oman, Western Hajar Mountains Report
Western Hajar mountains report. There has been another bout of new route activity since my last report in AAJ 2001. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Africa, Egypt, Sinai, Jebel Safsafa (Willow Mountain), Holey Moses
Sinai, Jebel Safsafa (Willow Mountain), Holey Moses. Sinai, the land of the Bedouin, conjures a rich and evocative image of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Russia, Ural Range, Northern Urals, Peak Sablya, Two New Routes in Winter
Northern Urals, Peak Sablya, two new routes in winter. These ascents took 10 days for the climbs (820m, Russian grade VI) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Russia, Pamir Range, Zaalaisky Range, Sat Peak Traverse
Zaalaisky Range, Sat Peak traverse. In July 2002, I led a team of Moscow climbers on several climbs in the western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Russia, Kamchatka Peninsula, Kamchatka Exploration
Kamchatka exploration. Our self-sufficient, four-person team—Melis Coady, Aubrey Knapp, Keri Meagher, and myself—made the first ski-mountaineering expedition to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Inylchek Region, Tien Shan Mountains, Mapping Expedition
Tien Shan Mountains, mapping expedition. In August and September, 13 of us, mostly students from Dresden University of Technology, conducted a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Kuilu Range, Peak Milo (pik 4,00) and Peak Misha (pik 4,750), Ski Descents
Peak Milo (pik 4,800) and Peak Misha (pik 4,750), ski descents. Martin Strasser and I went to the Kuilu range, travelling to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Kizil Asker, New Route Attempt
Kizil Asker, new route attempt. In July and August, Guy Robertson and I made two attempts on the most compelling ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Komarova Glacier, Pic Babushka at Pt 4,850m ("Pic Sabor"), New Routes
Komarova Glacier, Pic Babushka and Pt 4,850m (“Pic Sabor”), new routes. As half of the Scottish Kizil Asker expedition, Blair ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Ak Saitan
Ak Saitan. After a difficult journey through Kyrgyzstan in August, Iñaki Cabo, Elena de Castro, Ferran Latorre, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Pik Unmarked Soldier, China View
Pik Unmarked Soldier, China View. In the summer of 2001, we put up a previously unreported route on Pik Unmarked Soldier (5,322...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, At-Bashy Range and West Kokshaal-too, First Ascents
At-Bashy Range and West Kokshaal-too, first ascents. In early September an International School of Mountaineering expedition comprising Pat Littlejohn, Adrian ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Borkoldoy Khrebet, Pik Alexander, Father's Peak, and Pik Ibex Ascents
Borkoldoy Khrebet, Pik Alexander, Father’s Peak, and Pik Ibex ascents. A British team comprising Sharon Abbott, Wayne Gladwin, Mike ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Khrebet Kyokkiar and Gory Sarybeles, Seven First Ascents
Khrebet Kyokkiar and Gory Sarybeles, seven first ascents. After visiting this interesting and unexplored range in 2001, I organized another expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin, Kara-Su Valley, North Face of a Ridge East of Piramidalny Summit
Kara-Su Valley, north face of a ridge east of Piramidalny summit. The Karavshin Valley in southern Kyrgyzstan was eerily deserted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin, Dara-Su Valley, Pik 4810 m, Various New Routes
Kara-Su Valley, Pik 4810 m, various new routes. In July 2002, our group of 11 Czechs who drink and climb everything, went to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Asia, Pakistan, Change in Peak and Trekking Fees
Change in peak and trekking fees. It is with great relief and pleasure that I announce the formal acceptance by ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
Expeditions to Pakistan in 2002
Expeditions to Pakistan in 2002. In 2001 around 70 expeditions came to the Karakoram. However, with the change in political climate following the ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum IV, Attempt of Bonatti-Mauri Route
Gasherbrum IV, attempt of Bonatti-Mauri route. It appears from our records and those of the Ministry of Tourism that no ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003