American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

415 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Oeste, Jaeger Route, Solo
Chacraraju Oeste, Jaeger Route, solo. The 24 year-old French alpinist Didier Jourdain completed a solo ascent of the 700m Jaeger Route (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco Oeste, Via Traversiade
Pisco Oeste, Via Traversiade. On the south face of Pisco Oeste (5,752m) on August 21 Italians Tarcisio Bello, Ivan Camolini, Michele ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoysur, Crise del fe  
Huandoy Sur, Crise del fe. What a crazy idea we had! Five young guys—Yann Bonneville, Benoit Chanal, Francois Dupety, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta to Summit Ridge Cornices, Northwest Bowl
Nevado Ulta to summit ridge cornices, northwest bowl. At midnight on July 8 Brits Al Powell and Owen Samuel left a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta, Northwest Bowl, Attempt
Nevado Ulta, northwest bowl, attempt. After aborting our plan to climb the southeast face of Jirishanca (6,126m) in the Cordillera ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta to Summit Ridge, West-Northwest Face, Solo
Nevado Ulta to summit ridge, west-northwest face, solo. The two days of walking, battling for space in chicken-filled collectivos, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Ocshapalca, South Face
Ocshapalca, south face. Back in Huaraz after the Huayhuash, I rejoined my friend Iñigo Mujica (Note: Baró Ramon and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Milpocraju to Summit Ridge, Goulotte Gau Txoni
Milpocraju to summit ridge, Goulotte Gau Txoni. Kepa Escribano from Spain and Cristina Prieto from Chile climbed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Punta Numa, Hasta Luego, Zorro (So Long, Fox) 
Punta Numa, Hasta Luego, Zorro (So Long, Fox). (This report serves as an addendum to p. 303 of the AAJ 2002—Ed.) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, clarifications and corrections
Cordillera Blanca, clarifications and corrections. AAJ correspondent Antonio Gómez Bohórquez, a noted Cordillera Blanca climbing researcher, sent the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca Chico, Southeast Face, Sweet Child of Mine
Jirishanca Chico, southeast face, Sweet Child of Mine. After we returned from the southeast face of Jirishanca Grande, realizing that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca Norte to Summit Slopes
Jirishanca Norte to summit slopes. It is early July, and my climbing partner Iñigo Mujica and I have just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Tsacra Grande, West Face
Tsacra Grande, West Face. In mid-August Mark Richey and I left our families at our base camp at Laguna Jahuacocha ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Siula Grande, Los Rapidos
Siula Grande, Los Rapidos. On July 3 Marjan Kovac and Pavle Kozjek (both from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Spanish Basque living ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Siula Grande, West Face Nearly to Summit Ridge
Siula Grande, west face nearly to summit ridge. Dutch climbers Eva Oomen and Rogier van Rijn made an attempt on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Puscanturpa Norte and Nevado Cuyoc
Puscanturpa Norte and Nevado Cuyoc. In June a four-man Italian team climbed a new variant on the most imposing part ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Cordillera de la Viuda, Ascents
Cordillera de la Viuda, ascents. In late June 1999 Gerardo Telletxea and I arrived at the village of Culluhuay, in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Cordillera Jatún Chácua, Clarification, and Cerro Janpari, Ascent
Cordillera Jatún Chácua, clarification, and Cerro Janpari, ascent. The Cordillera Jatún Chácua is located south of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Nevado Llongote, Los Pecados se Rien!, I-Célines, and Longue, Haute, et Magnifico
Nevado Llongote, Los Pecados se Rien!, I-Célines, and Longue, Haute, et Magnifico. Two teams of young French climbers sponsored ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Apolobamba, Ananea Group Various Ascents
Ananea Group, various ascents. John Biggar led an expedition to the seldom-visited Peruvian section of the Cordillera Apolobamba. Traveling via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Venezuela, Autana Tepui, First Ascent of Southern Aspect
Autana Tepui, first ascent of southern aspect. This tepui, 400 miles south of Caracas in the Orinocan jungle, was climbed in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Brazil, Recent New Routes
Recent new routes. As of a few years ago the 1970 Leste Route on Pico Maior in Rio de Janeiro was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Pico Gotico, Via del arco
Pico Gotico, Via del Arco. Erik Monasterio, with the French climber Marie France Ducret, added a second route to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Cabeza de Condor, La Promenade des Braves; Huallomen, Duende del Diablo; and Illampu, La Conjuration des Imbecile
Cabeza de Condor, La Promenade des Braves; Huallomen, Duende del Diablo; and Illampu, La Conjuration des Imbecile. Jerome Mercader and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, The Big Wall, The AA Crack
The Big Wall, The AA Crack. After all the usual hassles of overweight and oversized baggage, and of making connections ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Araca Group, various ascents
Araca Group, various ascents. Mike Walker, Cameron Burns (Basalt Bigfoot Coalition), and I spent June 29–July 10 in the Mocoya and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents and Descents
Various ascents and descents. Wade McKoy, Porter Fox, Hal Thomson, Ptor Spriceneiks, and I found ourselves in the Cordillera Quimsa ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, San Juan Province, Agua Negra and Valle del Cura Regions
San Juan Province, Agua Negra and Valle del Cura regions. The Valle del Cura is an interesting glacial valley, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, 2002-2003 Season Overview
Aconcagua, 2002-2003 season overview. Aconcagua Park saw a record 5,519 people enter for trekking or climbing, 20 percent more than last year. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Central Andes and Northern Patagonia, Various Ascents and Ski Descents
Various ascents and ski descents. A dry winter in several areas James Bracken and I were interested in required us ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Central Patagonia, Volcán Melimoyu
Volcán Melimoyu. This ice volcano, exactly 2,400m (7,874') high, is located by the sources of the Palena river in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Central Patagonia, Cerro Castillo, Southeast Face
Cerro Castillo, Southeast Face. Eduardo Mondragón (España), Pablo Crovetto (Chile) and I, Rodrigo Fica (Chile), climbed the Southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Central Patagonia, San Lorenzo Group, Cerro Hermoso, Southwest Summit
San Lorenzo Group, Cerro Hermoso, southwest summit. From a base camp in Rio Oro Valley, Italians Luca Maspes and Diego ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Azara and Cerro Bravo
CerroAzara and Cerro Bravo. These two summits are located just north of Paso del Viento, and are linked by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Adela Group, Cerro Grande
Adela Group, Cerro Grande. In the Fitz Roy Range, in November, Italian Luca Maspes made two solo attempts on Techado ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Torre; Saint Exupery, Chiaro di Luna; and Aguja Rafael, Artebelleza
Cerro Torre; Saint Exupery, Chiaro di Luna; and Aguja Rafael, Artebelleza. The weather in Patagonia this year dished out its ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Mermoz, Vol de Nuit, First Winter Ascent
Aguja Mermoz, Vol de Nuit, first winter ascent. In early August Ian Parnell and I arrived in a cold and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Tehuelche and Supercanaleta, Attempts
Fitz Roy, Tehuelche and Supercanaleta, attempts. I spent a month with Chris Turiano, a very good and strong guy from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Summary of Activity
Chalten Massif, summary of activity. During the austral winter (July-August 2002), French Canadians Martin Bointeau and Claude Gagnon made the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Continental Icecap, Exploration and Ascents
Southern Continental Icecap, exploration and ascents. Chilean climber Camilo Rada, interested in classical andinism, asked me in 2001 for details of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, North Tower of Paine, Los Esclavos del Barometro and Other Ascents
North Tower of Paine, Los Esclavos del Barometro and other ascents. On December 31 Tina DiBatista and I (Slovenians) climbed a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, Second Ascents
Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, second ascent. David Stastny and I, both Czech, repeated the route Riders on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, Attempt and Third Ascent
Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, attempt and third ascent. In November Frenchmen Jerome Arpin and Sylvain Empereur attempted to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, South of Paine, Cerro Balmaceda, West Face, Possible New Route
Cerro Balmaceda, west face, possible new route. In February 2002 Spaniards Iñaki San Vicente and Carlos Garcia de Cortazar made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Chile, Tierra del Fuego, Cordillera Darwin, Monte Shipton—Monte Darwin, Naming and Reconnaissance
Monte Shipton-Monte Darwin, naming and reconnaissance. In 1962 my father, Eric Shipton, made the first ascent of the highest peak of ...
AAJ
Notes
2003
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Summary of Activities
Summary of activities. A total of 68 climbers attempted 4,897m Vinson Massif, including seven women. Unusually poor weather was experienced in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Mt. Vinson, Southwest Face, First Ascent of Double003
Mt. Vinson, southwest face, first ascent of Double003. In 1992 I’d completed the first solo ascent of a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Summary of Activities
Summary of activities. Livingston Island is a rugged mountain massif, home to the highest point of the South Shetland Islands, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Antarctica, Dronning Maud Land, Summary of Activities
Summary of activities. In late January an experienced team of Russian mountaineers flew in to Dronning Maud Land, aiming to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Antarctica, Dronning Maud Land, South Georgia, Various Activity
South Georgia, various activity. Bad weather thwarted attempts by a team off the 15m ketch Gambo to make three first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003