American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

415 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Southwest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades Summary)
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. The year 2002 was great for alpine climbing in the coastal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Mt. Tiedemann, Southwest Bartizans and Various Ascents
Mt. Tiedemann, Southwest Bartizans and various ascents. It took three trips, but in late July I finally scored on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Mt. Winstone, Passport Couloir
Mt. Winstone, Passport Couloir. Forrest Murphy, Don Serl, and I climbed the Passport Couloir (TD-) on Mt. Winstone in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Mt. Gilbert, West Pillar
Mt. Gilbert, west pillar. Mt. Gilbert (10,225') is an impressive granite peak that lies 90 km southeast of Mt. Waddington, deep ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Mt. Dione, Cheech and Chong
Mt. Dione, Cheech and Chong. On July 21 Jamie Chong and I summited a new route on Mt. Dione in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Mt. Joffre, Smell the Roses
Mt. Joffre, Smell the Roses. Joffre’s northeast face has a nice chimney/gully line, just left of the central ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Mt. Cheam, Northwest Face
Mt. Cheam, northwest face. Mt. Cheam, at the north end of the Cheam Range, rises 2,100m above the Fraser River. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Squamish, Black Dyke, Free Climb
Squamish, Black Dyke, free climb. The Black Dyke on Squamish has been a serious test for aid climbers since it ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Bugaboo Spire, Symposium
Bugaboo Spire, Symposium. Wyoming climber Alex McAfee took advantage of excellent early August weather to complete a new route, solo, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Howser Towers, Spinstone Gully and Perma Grin
Until recently The Big Hose (1,000', D+ 5.8 WI3, Jon Krakauer, solo, 1978) on the northeast face of South Howser Tower was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, South Howser Minaret, Bad Hair Day
South Howser Minaret, Bad Hair Day. Late in August Lizzy Scully and I drove to the Bugaboo trailhead. After porcupine-proofing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, various ascents
Bugaboos, various ascents. In addition to climbs reported above, several other new routes and variations were made. In July, Jonathan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Summary
Canadian Rockies, summary. The variable weather of summer 2002 defied forecasting but paved the way for a remarkable fall. July saw ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Mt. Robson, Infinite Patience
In midmorning on October 23 Eric Dumerac (Canmore, Alberta), Philippe Pellet (Briançon, France), and I (Canmore) stepped from the warm ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, The Catapult, Jokers and Fools; Marching Men, Tin Drum and Toy Soldier
The Catapult, Jokers and Fools; Marching Men, Tin Drum and Toy Soldier. June found John Catto and me working together ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Mt. Postern, Northwest Buttress
“Sometimes you just gotta go out there,” said Gloria, answering our query about the ugly weather. Having no time to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Kitchener, Rights of Passage
Mt. Kitchener, Rights of Passage. Somehow we had appeased the Mountain gods, for they granted us Rights of Passage. No ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Howse Peak, Howse of Cards
Howse Peak, Howse of Cards. In December Will Gadd, Kevin Mahoney, and I made the first complete ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, Northeast Greenland, Louise Boyd Land, First Ascents
Louise Boyd Land, first ascents. We were expecting things to go wrong, but for the first few days of our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, Northeast Greenland, Gronau Nunatakker Range, First Ascents
Gronau Nunatakker Range, first ascents. On July 4 British climbers, Owain Jones, Euan Lawson, Stephen Phillips and John Starbuck, British/American, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, Northeast Greenland, Niels Holgersen Nunatakker, Multiple First Ascents
Niels Holgersen Nunatakker, multiple first ascents. In June and July, the team of Geoff Bonney, James Carnegie, Gordon Downs, David ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Lemon Mountains, Various Ascents
Lemon Mountains, various ascents. During July and August an eight-person British Alpine Club-Alpine Climbing Group team led by Roy Ruddle ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, North Lemon Mountains, First Ascent of The Spear and Others
North Lemon Mountains, first ascent of The Spear and others. As our drop-off point was not a suitable base for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Tupilak, New Route and Other First Ascents
Tupilak, new route and other first ascents. Previously unreported was a productive expedition to Schweizerland in July-August 2000 by Alexander Fidi, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Tupilak, First Ascent of the North Face and Quasi-Winter Ascent of Rodebjerg
Tupilak, first ascent of the North face and quasi-winter ascent of Rodebjerg. In 2001, a four-man British team comprising Jon Bracey, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Viking's Shield Wall
Viking’s Shield Wall, solo first ascent. From August 15 to September 7 Mike Libecki made a solo first ascent of the 4,000...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, South Greenland, Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Left-hand Pillar British Route, Second Ascent
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Left-hand pillar British Route, second ascent. John Dickey, Evan Stevens, and myself arrived in Nanortalik in late ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Greenland, South Greenland, Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq New Route and Other Ascents
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq new route and other ascents. On July 15 Chris Chitty, Ari Menitove, and I departed for Nanortalik, taking ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Mexico, Chihuahua, Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, El Gigante, Faded Glory
El Gigante, Faded Glory. In November Alard Hüfner (South Africa) and Brent Edelen (U.S.) established a 14-pitch wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Mexico, Chihuahua, Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, El Gigante, Logical Progression
El Gigante, Logical Progression. Over a seven-and-a-half-week period in spring Peter Baumeister (Germany), Luke Laeser (U.S.), and Bert van ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Mexico, Chihuahua, Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, El Gigante, La Conjura do los Necios, Second Ascent
El Gigante, La Conjura de los Necios, second ascent. In May Slovenians Tanja Grmovsek (formerly Tanja Rojs) and Andrej Grmovsek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Mexico, Durango, El Peñón (Cerro) Blanco, El Vedauwoo
El Peñón (Cerro) Blanco, El Vedauwoo. In March, on the 800'+ south face of Cerro Blanco, Todd Skinner and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Mexico, Neuvo León, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Cañón de la Huasteca, Cañón de San Judas, Pico José Pereyra, Peyote Brujo
Cañón de la Huasteca, Cañón de San Judas, Pico José Pereyra, Peyote Brujo. Paul Vera is a local ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Mexico, Neuvo León, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Cañón de la Huasteca, El Pico Erin, Hunab Ku
Cañón de la Huasteca, El Pico Erin, Hunab Ku. Access to this area, located in the municipality of Santa ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, Mexico, Neuvo León, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, El Zapatero, Leones y Osos
El Zapatero, Leones y Osos. Beginning March 24, Zack Martin and Sven Krebs established 12 pitches on an unclimbed wall in a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo to North Ridge, Sensations of History
Alpamayo to north ridge, Sensations of History. On August 8 the Catalans Josep Escruela and Tino Tain climbed the gully to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Taulliraju, East Buttress, Second Ascent
Taulliraju, east buttress, second ascent. Possibly the most notable event in the Blanca during 2002 was not the creation of a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Santa Cruz Chico, East Face to within 20m of Summit
Santa Cruz Chico, east face to within 20m of summit. Scottish-based Jason Currie and Guy Robertson made a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Abasraju to Summit Ridge, Moonlighting
Abasraju to summit ridge, Moonlighting. On July 7 Tony Barton (U.K.) and I climbed a new route (Moonlighting, 11 pitches, TD) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, La Esfinge, Variante Checa
La Esfinge, Variante Checa. In June we had the opportunity to attempt to open a big-wall variation on La Esfinge (5,350...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Oeste, Jaeger Route, Solo
Chacraraju Oeste, Jaeger Route, solo. The 24 year-old French alpinist Didier Jourdain completed a solo ascent of the 700m Jaeger Route (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco Oeste, Via Traversiade
Pisco Oeste, Via Traversiade. On the south face of Pisco Oeste (5,752m) on August 21 Italians Tarcisio Bello, Ivan Camolini, Michele ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoysur, Crise del fe  
Huandoy Sur, Crise del fe. What a crazy idea we had! Five young guys—Yann Bonneville, Benoit Chanal, Francois Dupety, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta to Summit Ridge Cornices, Northwest Bowl
Nevado Ulta to summit ridge cornices, northwest bowl. At midnight on July 8 Brits Al Powell and Owen Samuel left a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta, Northwest Bowl, Attempt
Nevado Ulta, northwest bowl, attempt. After aborting our plan to climb the southeast face of Jirishanca (6,126m) in the Cordillera ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta to Summit Ridge, West-Northwest Face, Solo
Nevado Ulta to summit ridge, west-northwest face, solo. The two days of walking, battling for space in chicken-filled collectivos, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Ocshapalca, South Face
Ocshapalca, south face. Back in Huaraz after the Huayhuash, I rejoined my friend Iñigo Mujica (Note: Baró Ramon and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Milpocraju to Summit Ridge, Goulotte Gau Txoni
Milpocraju to summit ridge, Goulotte Gau Txoni. Kepa Escribano from Spain and Cristina Prieto from Chile climbed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Punta Numa, Hasta Luego, Zorro (So Long, Fox) 
Punta Numa, Hasta Luego, Zorro (So Long, Fox). (This report serves as an addendum to p. 303 of the AAJ 2002—Ed.) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, clarifications and corrections
Cordillera Blanca, clarifications and corrections. AAJ correspondent Antonio Gómez Bohórquez, a noted Cordillera Blanca climbing researcher, sent the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003