American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

415 Records

Title Publication Year
Blood From The Stone
Blood From The Stone If it weren’t so big, it would almost have been fun. Five-thousand feet of vertical ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
The Viking's Shield
The Viking's Shield A solo fantasy in eastern Greenland. Mike. Libhcki Eastern Greenland (remote fjord, Southeast Greenland) Fantasizing is one ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
The Fickle Face
Like the Sirens who lured Ulysses to a blissful yet certain death, the northwest face of the Devil’s Thumb ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
El Gigante
El Gigante A chronicle of early climbing on the giant of Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, Mexico. Luis Carlos Garcí...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Faded Glory
Faded Glory Two weeks of committed aid climbing on El Gigante’s fractured andesite. Brent Edelen It took me a ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Conspiracy of Fools
Conspiracy of Fools The second ascent of La Conjura de Los Necios reveals plenty of adventure between the holts on ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Logical Progression
Logical Progression Sometimes the best rock and traditional bolting ethics follow different lines. What’s an enterprising climber to do? ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
A Logical Dilemma
A Logical Dilemma When “logic” is seen as an ethical failure, one climber’s “progress” becomes another’s “regression”—or ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
The Tree of Life
José Luis Pereyra, bearded, wearing a coarse poncho , stands beside the Merced River. Equal parts prophetic shaman and mathematician, extreme ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
The Saber
The Saber A pitch a day and bone-numbing cold define the first two routes on the north face of Gora ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Arwa Tower, Spire, and Crest
Arwa Tower, Spire, and Crest When the weather gods smiled: two perfect weeks in the Indian Garhwal with the French ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Arwa Tower
Arwa Spire Spicy granite on pointed peaks—two amazing routes on the stunning north faces of Arwa Spire’s main ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
The Flame
The Flame Before 9-11, this 500-foot granite spike sitting on top of a 2,000-foot face had been the talk of ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
An Optimistic Plan
An Optimistic Plan A series of new routes in Tibet, in preparation for climbing Gyachung Kang, ends when Mike Bearzi ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Michael Anthony Bearzi, 1953-2002
Mike died in the mountains and is buried by the snows. It seems so sadly appropriate, doing what he loved, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2003
Sepu Kangri
Sepu Kangri Completing a dream, two climbers finally reach the summit of the secret mountain” of East Tihet. Carlos Buhler ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
East of the Himalaya
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
East of the Himalaya, Part I: East Tibet
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
East of the Himalaya, Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of the Hengduan Mountains
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
East of the Himalaya, Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Siguniang
Sometimes a scene remains indelibly imprinted on one’s mind . On April 5, 2002 I came across such a scene. I was ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Jarjinjabo
Jarjinjabo New routes, old worlds; and other epiphanies from the Tibetan borderlands. Edited by Peter Athans It felt like jumping ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Alone
Beforehand, there was a feeling of fear, fear that I could make a mistake. If a hold broke, if I ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
A Code to Climb By
A Code to Climb By Leading climbers gather in Tyrolia to shape the ethical foundation of their sport. Eliza Moran ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
Freedom, With Boundaries
Freedom, With Boundaries The following is condensed from an opening address to the delegates of the Innsbruck Congress. Tom Frost ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practices in Mountain Sports
The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practice in Mountain Sports “Stretch your limits, lift your spirits and aim for the top” ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2003
North America, United States, Washington, Climbing Trends and New Routes
Washington climbing, trends and new routes. In recent years alpine climbing in the Washington Cascades has become less exploratory. First ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Washington, Silver Star Mountain, Gato Negro
Silver Star Mountain, Gato Negro. On June 21, 2001 Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston, both of Mazama, WA, established a probable new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Washington, Sloan Peak, Northwest Buttress
Sloan Peak, Northwest Buttress. In late September 2000 Mike Preiss and I completed what we suspect is a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Washington, Mount Index, North Norwegian Buttress
Mount Index, North Norwegian Buttress, Voodoo Proj. Over five days in mid-July Blair Williams, with William Tharpe, Todd Karner, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activities
Yosemite Valley, various activity. While it has not been on the free-climbing cutting edge for decades, Yosemite still ranks as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Quo Vadis
El Capitan, Quo Vadis. During the night of November 20-21 Jacek Czyz, solo, finished Quo Vadis (VI 5.9 A4/A4+), a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Salathé, One-day Free Ascents
Salathé, one-day free ascents. In December 2001 I was in a hospital bed after severing my left index finger in a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, The Nose, Speed Record
El Capitan, The Nose, speed record. Events leading up to the record speed ascent of the Nose in 2 hours and 48 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Free Climbing
Free climbing. Yosemite 2002 was the setting for what I can only call a dream season. In the spring Jake Whittaker ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, West Fuller Butte, The Twisted Bit
Sierra Nevada West Fuller Butte, The Twisted Bit. Doniel Drazin and Brandon Thau completed an eight pitch route (IV 5.12b) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Third Recess Peak, Serving Detention
Third Recess Peak, Serving Detention. The northeast side of Third Recess Peak features two striking arêtes that merge near ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Castle Rock Spire, Cinco de Mayo
Castle Rock Spire, Cinco deMayo. Bruce Bindner and I completed a 12-pitch route (V 5.10+ A3) on Castle Rock Spire, slightly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, Commanche Ridge
Grand Canyon National Park, Comanche Point, Comanche Ridge. In November 2000, while hiking the Escalante Route, I couldn’t take my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Arizona, Lost Horizon, First Free Ascent
Lost Horizon, first free ascent. On January 29 Ty Mack and I made the first free ascent of the stunning Lost ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, various activity. Significant new routes were established on the Navajo Sandstone of the Colorado Plateau in 2002. Paul Ross, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Mudrosity
San Rafael Swell, Mudstrosity. In March Strappo Hughes and I climbed the Mudstrosity (350', V- A3+). This tower is in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, The Titan, Sundevil Chimney, First Free Ascent
Potash Road/Wall Street, Desert Spindrift. In the middle of September Nathan Martin and I climbed a new route that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Harold Walton, 1912-2002
Fisher Towers, The Titan, Sundevil Chimney, first free ascent. The Fisher Towers represent a Daliesque dream barely metamorphosed into rock. ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Westwater Canyon, Arch Tower, Dry Heaves
Westwater Canyon, Arch Tower, Dry Heaves. In June Bill Duncan and John Burnham made the first ascent of Arch Tower, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Notch Peak: Appetite for Destruction, La Fin du Monde, and Empty Sky
Notch Peak is located approximately 45 miles west of Delta on U.S. 6/50. Directions to it are given in James Garrett’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
Texas Tower, East Face
Texas Tower has a big reputation, as it is one of the tallest pure sandstone towers in the desert southwest. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Kolob Canyon, Nagunt Mesa, Cos the Boss
Kolob Canyon, Nagunt Mesa, Cos the Boss. In late October and early November 2001 I did a new wall route in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Idiodyssey
IdiOdyssey. In April James Garrett and I climbed a new route (V 5.10 A2+) via a crack system on the 1,000' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Big Bend Gendarme, Mean High Tide
Big Bend Gendarme, Mean High Tide. This route climbs the obvious crack system on the southwest face, facing the Big ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2003