American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

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496 Records

Title Publication Year
Mountaineering Club of Alaska
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska had approximately 600 members in 2001. The club held monthly meetings that featured ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2002
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. The work of Chairman Steve Schneider, Jane Koski, Tadeusz Gladczenko, Tony Watkin, Paul Romero, and others ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2002
Accidents in North American Mountaineering—Fifty-Fifth Annual Report of the Safety Committees of The American Alpine club and The Alpine Club of Canada
This is the fifty-fifth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-fourth issue in which The Alpine Club ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2002
Falling Ice—Fall on Ice, Poor Position, Alberta, Banff National Park, Johnson Canyon Upper Falls
FALLING ICE-FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITION Alberta, Banff National Park, Johnson Canyon Upper Falls On January 19, J. G. was standing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Inadequate Belay—Climber Lowered Too Quickly, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Malign Canyon
CANADA INADEQUATE BELAY-CLIMBER LOWERED TOO QUICKLY Alberta, Jasper National Park, Malign Canyon On February 10, at 1600, a Jasper Warden was contacted ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Banff National Park, Louise Falls
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Banff National Park, Louise Falls On February 14, T.T. was leading the final crux ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall in Crevasse—Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment
On May 18, D.S. and I decided to attempt a ski ascent of North and South Twin, despite the fact ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Ice, Inattention, Alberta, Banff National Park, Professor Falls
FALL ON ICE, INATTENTION Alberta, Banff National Park, Professor Falls On March 20, after instructing an ice climbing session on this ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Rappel Error—Inadequate Anchor, Weather, Climbing Alone, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Snowdome, Slipstream
RAPPEL ERROR-INADEQUATE ANCHOR, WEATHER, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Snowdome, Slipstream On the afternoon of March 24, M.G. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Snow, Poor Position, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Parker Ridge
FALL ON SNOW, POOR POSITION Alberta, Jasper National Park, Parker Ridge On May 6, a group of mountaineers were practicing crevasse ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Rock, Poor Conditions, Alberta, Mount McGillivray, Kahl Crack
FALL ON ROCK, POOR CONDITIONS Alberta, Mount McGillivray, Kahl Crack On July 16, D.W. was leading the third pitch of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Failure to Follow Route—Stranded, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Haddo
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE-STRANDED, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Haddo On July 21, after completing the North Glacier Route on Mounts ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Rock, Handhold Broke, Solo Hiking/Scrambling, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Woolley
FALL ON ROCK, HANDHOLD BROKE, SOLO HIKING/SCRAMBLING Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Woolley Late in the afternoon on August 5, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Exhaustion, Exceeding Abilities, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, East Ridge
EXHAUSTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, East Ridge On August 10, a party of three was reported overdue ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Lefroy, Lemire Route
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Lefroy, Lemire Route After 32 hours on this alpine grade IV, 5.7 route a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Alberta, Kananaskis Provincial Park, Mount Sir Douglas
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Kananaskis Provincial Park, Mount Sir Douglas On August 29, two climbers ascended Mount Sir Douglas via the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Rockfall, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Patterson, East Face
ROCKFALL Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Patterson, East Face On September 5, a party of three started early for a two-day ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall in Crevasse, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate Equipment, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Athabasca-Andromeda Glacier
FALL IN CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Jasper National Park, Athabasca-Andromeda Glacier On September 5, P.P. and A.B. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Cardiac Arrest—Fall on Snow, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, East Ridge
CARDIAC ARREST-FALL ON SNOW Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, East Ridge On September 15, a party of two was ascending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Rock, Foothold Broke—Failure to Test Holds, Alberta, Mount John Laurie (Yamnuska)
FALL ON ROCK, FOOTHOLD BROKE-FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS Alberta, Mount John Laurie (Yamnuska) On September 29, two experienced climbers were ascending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Aberdeen, North Glacier
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Aberdeen, North Glacier On October 14, a party of five was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, British Columbia, Lillooet, Oregon Jack
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION British Columbia, Lillooet, Oregon Jack On January 7, H.C., S.P., and I headed into ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Climbing Alone, Weather—Lost Equipment in Storm, British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson
CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER-LOST EQUIPMENT IN STORM British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson During the week of August 27, C....
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Ice, Inattention, British Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Haffner Creek
FALL ON ICE, INATTENTION British Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Haffner Creek Haffner Creek is a popular ice climbing area with ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Loose Rock, Ontario, Bon Echo, Ottawa Route
LOOSE ROCK Ontario, Bon Echo, Ottawa Route On July 21, I.G. was leading the third pitch of the “Ottawa Route” (5.8) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
HAPE, HACE, AMS, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HAPE, HACE, AMS Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 4, the “Joyful Expedition,” led by Chun Byung-Tai, was flown to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HAPE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress At 1245 on Mayl 1, George Payot (63), a member of the Denali French Expedition, approached the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Illness—Preexisting Condition Not Reported, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
ILLNESS-PREEXISTING CONDITION NOT REPORTED Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 14, Chi-Hyeon Pack (27) was evacuated by helicopter from Mount McKinley ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
FALL ON SNOW AND HAPE/HACE-ASCENDING TOO FAST, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW AND HAPE/HACE-ASCENDING TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress At 1430 on May 17, Frainciso Borja (32), a member ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Frostbite—Dehydration and Inadequate Clothing, Poor Physical Condition, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FROSTBITE-DEHYDRATION AND INADEQUATE CLOTHING, POOR PHYSICAL CONDITION Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress About 2100 on May 18, climbers at the 14,200-foot camp ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Snow—Carrying Too Much, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW-CARRYING TOO MUCH Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 23 around 0800, Priska Landolt (30) of the Glaronia-Swiss Expedition was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
AMS, HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
AMS, HAPE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 26, Mark Hall (42), a client of Mountain Trip, was brought to the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Foothold Gave Way—Fall on Snow, Placed No Protection, Alaska, Mount Hunter, Southwest Ridge
FOOTHOLD GAVE WAY-FALL ON SNOW, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alaska, Mount Hunter, Southwest Ridge On May 26 at 1700, James Raitt(27),James Bonnie (27), ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Falling Ice, Poor Position, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
FALLING ICE, POOR POSITION Alaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge At 2105 on June 16, Jason Kraus (30), a member of the Cold and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, No Hard Hat, Arkansas, Sam's Throne
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT Arkansas, Sam's Throne On March 10, a climber (36) was looking at a climb ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Climbing Unroped, No Hard Hat, Arizona, Oak Creek Overlook, Griffo
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HAT Arizona, Oak Creek Overlook, Griffo On September 28, a rock-climbing teacher ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay Anchor, Arizona, Superior, Queen Creek
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY ANCHOR Arizona, Superior, Queen Creek I was climbing in Atlantis, Queen Creek, on a 5.10, which ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Rockslide, California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
ROCKSLIDE California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch On May 21, while ascending the Avalanche Gulch route, a large rock slide occurred, hitting ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Falling Rock—Crushed Hand, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Sea of Dreams
FALLING ROCK-CRUSHED HAND California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Sea of Dreams My name is Robert. I am a 24 year old ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Protection Came Out—Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection, Darkness, California, Yosemite Valley, The Nose
PROTECTION CAME OUT-FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, DARKNESS California, Yosemite Valley, The Nose On May 14, Brian Smudz and Yanchun ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Faulty Use of Crampons—Fall on Snow, California, Mount Shasta, Wintun Ice Fall
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS-FALL ON SNOW California, Mount Shasta, Wintun Ice Fall On June 24, David Lowe (24) was glissading at 13,500 feet ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Protection Pulled Out—Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral Rock
PROTECTION PULLED OUT-FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral Rock On July 12th at 1:00 p.m., a fisherman in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
AMS—Ascending Too Fast, Late Start, Exceeding Abilities, California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
AMS-ASCENDING TOO FAST, LATE START, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch On July 16, Jans Hogenacker (22) and his party of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Falling Rock, California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
FALLING ROCK California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch On July 18, Scott Eisenbarth (25), a guide for Shasta Mountain Guides (SMG), was descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, California, Yosemite National Park, Daff Dome
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE California, Yosemite National Park, Daff Dome On September 15 at 1520, Anne Venturelli (33) had top-roped about 30 feet of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Rock, Protection, Inexperience, Inadequate Food, California, Yosemite valley, El Capitan, Mescalito
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE FOOD California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Mescalito On September 24, on the sixth day out, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Failure to Follow Route, Climbing Alone, Exposure, Inadequate Equipment/Clothing, Weather, Inexperience, California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Henry Clardy (41) was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Inadequate Equipment, California, Mount Shasta, Sargents Ridge
FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Mount Shasta, Sargents Ridge The Mount Shasta area ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Miscommunication, Colorado, Ouray Ice Park
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, MISCOMMUNICATION Colorado, Ouray Ice Park In January, a 140-foot fall at the Ouray Ice Park ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002
Falls on Rock, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Cruise Route
FALLS ON ROCK Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Cruise Route On June 17 th, Zach Alberts (20) fell while ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2002