American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

496 Records

Title Publication Year
Holy Baffman!
Holy Baffman! Speed climbing Mt. Asgard’s Scott and Porter routes, Baffin Island. Cedar Wright Three thousand feet and over 24 ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Project Mayhem
Project Mayhem Mastering the chaos during solo battles on “the hardest big-wall route on the planet,” Mt. Thor, Baffin Island. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
True Value
True Value Finding beauty and danger on the first alpine-style ascent of Torre Egger and a new route on Cerro ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Barbarossa
Barbarossa When getting up is not nearly enough: the first ascent of Yamandaka, in the Indian Karakoram. Mark Richey Braced ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse Middle
Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse Middle Think all the 8000-meter summits have been climbed? Then you need the vision to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
The Shark's Fin
The Shark's Fin After beating back dozens of the world’s best climbers, Meru’s central peak finally succumbed to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
And the Blind Shall See
And The Blind Shall See Thanks to new techniques and dedicated doctors, the end is in sight for the epidemic ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Releasing Bellavista
Releasing Bellavista Seventy years ago the Tre Cime Group in the Dolomites was home to the world's boldest and most ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
North America, United States, Washington, Nooksack Tower, South Face
Nooksack Tower, south face. In July Ben Manfredi and I teamed up to try a beautiful new face in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Hardy, the Disappearing Staircase
Mt. Hardy, The Disappearing Staircase. It was amazing that a feature as compelling as the northeast buttress of Mt. Hardy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Washington, The Kloochman, Traverse; Goose Egg Mountain; The Talon
The Kloochman, Traverse; Goose Egg Mountain; The Talon. The Kloochman is an enigmatic massif in the southern Washington Cascades. An ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, various activity. (Editor’s note: Several of the ascents mentioned in this summary, particularly new routes, appear in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Leaning Tower, West Face
Leaning Tower, West Face. On May 16 Jason Pickles and I climbed the West Face of the Leaning Tower free except ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Muir Wall
El Capitan, Muir Wall. “Oh my God, he’s actually going to step off this ledge!” This was my thought ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half-Dome - Mt. Watkins - El Capitan Blitz
Half Dome-Mt. Watkins-El Capitan Blitz. In October Dean Potter and I became the first to climb three Grade VI Yosemite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Nose, Speed Record
El Capitan, Nose, speed record. On October 15 Dean Potter and I went sub-four hours on El Cap’s 3,000-foot Nose, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Tempest
El Capitan, Tempest. June 9, 1999: I am in a doubly overhanging dihedral, approaching The Eyrie. Lulled by the morning sun, I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Slacker's Toil
El Capitan, Slacker's Toil. Slacker’s Toil (VI 5.9 A5b) is a four-and-a-fourth-pitch variant to Surgeon General/Lunar Eclipse. My ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, El Corazon
El Capitan, El Corazon. On September 7 Max Reichel and I looked for a new free-climbable line on the southwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Super Nova Area, High Line
Super Nova Area, High Line. On March 20, 2000, in the Super Nova Area near the Rostrum, Ammon McNeely, and Cedar Wright ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Incredible Hulk, Doodad, Mt. Bandaloo (Pt 10,002')
Incredible Hulk, Doodad, Mt. Bandaloo (Pt 10,002'). Between August 2 and August 22 I traversed the Sierra Nevada from Twin Meadows to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Conness, Plan B
Conness, Plan B. In June Paul Teare and I went in to Conness with a plan to climb the Harding ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages
Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages. Last summer John Fehrman, Bryan Sweeney, and I completed a route (Wall of Ages V-VI 5.11+ ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Citadel, Nothing but Time
Citadel, Nothing But Time. On September 2 Jimmy Haden and Michael Pennings climbed a new route on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Angel Wings, South Arête, Original Route
Angel Wings, South Arête, Original Route. In February 2002 Jason Magness and I made what we believe was the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
Mt. Stewart, Patterson Bluff, Amphitheater Wall, Arctic Lake Wall, Mt. Newcomb
Mike Pennings and I established a direct line (Fallen Angels, IV 5.10+) to the west summit on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Whitney Portal Buttress, Ghostrider
Whitney Portal Buttress, Ghostrider. In June 2000, with Charles Byrne, I first attempted a new route on Whitney Portal Buttress between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Keeler Needle, Australopithecus
Keeler Needle, Australopithecus. Australopithecus was established by Ammon McNeely and Kevin Conti on October 9, 1999, after a week of establishing base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, Asleep at the Wheel
Mt. Chamberlain, Asleep at the Wheel. In August Mike Pennings and I checked out Mt. Chamberlain, located southwest of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Arizona, Baboquivari Peak, I'itoi Dance
Baboquivari Peak, I'itoi Dance. In April 2000 Jackie Carroll and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Baboquivari ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Arizona, Baboquivari Peak, Cloud Man Got Angry
Baboquivari Peak, Cloud Man Got Angry. In March Jackie Carroll and I added a four-pitch variation, Cloud Man Got Angry, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Utah, Wasatch Mountains, Devil's Castle, Evil Eye
Devil’s Castle, Evil Eye In September Glen Henshaw, Jonathan Smoot, and I climbed a new route on the 800-foot ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Utah, Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, Various Activity. In Canyonlands National Park two new routes were established in the remote Dabneyland. Says Steve “Crusher” ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Utah, Desert, Canyonlands, San Rafael Slabs
Canyonlands, San Rafael Slabs. Located 15 miles west of Green River, Utah, just south of I-70, a new climbing area has ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Utah, Desert, San Rafael Swell, Cinquenta Tower
San Rafael Swell, Cinquenta Tower. On November 3, the day after my 50th birthday, Tim Toula and I made the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, West Temple, Full Steam Ahead
West Temple, Full Steam Ahead. Between Gettin’ More Western and Back Where It All Begins, this route climbs 13 new 60-meter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Seven Castles Area, Under a Winter Sky
Seven Castles Area, Under A Winter Sky. On January 5 I soloed a four-pitch route in the Seven Castles area north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Otis Peak, Various New Routes
Otis Peak, various new routes. On the south face of Otis Peak, just west of the Otis Flower Tower, we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Long's Peak, The Diamond, Bright Star
Long’s Peak, The Diamond, Bright Star. Bright Star was first climbed by Ed Webster and named in honor of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Long's Peak, The Diamond, The Honeymoon is Over
Long’s Peak, The Diamond, The Honeymoon is Over. For the past two years fellow Diamond lover Eric Doub had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, Roasted Pork
North Chasm View Wall, Roasted Pork. In September Nick Meyer and I made the first ascent of Roasted Pork (IV 5.11 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, Rotten Piggy
North Chasm View Wall, Rotten Piggy. In September Chris Kruthaupt and I climbed the new route Rotten Piggy between No ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Painted Wall, Journey Through Mirkwood
Painted Wall, Journey Through Mirkwood. In August Jonathan Copp and I descended the S.O.B. Gully at 3:00 a.m. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, South Chasm View Wall, The Black Hole
South Chasm View Wall, The Black Hole. After years of longing gazes and idle dreaming, Jonathan Copp and I found ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, South Chasm View Wall, Goldberg Special, Shadowboxing
South Chasm View Wall, Goldberg Special, Shadowboxing. During two days in October Heidi Wirtz and I free climbed the lower ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Stay Puft Buttress
Stay Puft Buttress. The Stay Puft Buttress (1,700' V 5.10 A1) was established by Josh Borof and Paul Emrick on June 19, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Owen, North Face
Mount Owen, North Face. On August 15 Tobey Carmen, Eric Draper, and I climbed a probable new route (IV/V 5.9) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Wyoming, South Fork of Shoshone River, South Fork Ice Routes
South Fork Ice Routes. In April 1999, while flying over the South Fork near Cody, I discovered a new arena of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Squaretop, East Face, The Miscreant Line and The Conveyor Belt
Squaretop, East Face, The Miscreant Line and The Conveyor Belt. Two routes were established in August 2000 by Tod Anderson, Skyler ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Mt. Hooker, Loaded for Bear
Mt. Hooker, Loaded for Bear. I wasn’t sure if I’d get my Czech friend Jakub Gajda to accompany ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002