American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

496 Records

Title Publication Year
PreFace
Twenty years ago H. Adams Carter answered his doorbell and ushered me into his home office, where he edited the ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2002
Ten to Remember
Ten to Remember A thousand climbs couldn’t capture the richness of our last century. So here are 10 to get ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1906. Pinnacle Peak
1906. Pinnacle Peak Kitty Calhoun “What do you think of the trend of todays’ climbers pushing harder and harder?” The question ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1910. Mt. McKinley's North Peak
1910. Mt. McKinley’s North Peak Dee Molenaar At first the reported ascent of Mt. McKinley’s North Peak by three ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1929. East Ridge of the Grand Teton
1929. East Ridge of the Grand Teton Chris Jones Rising dramatically from the surrounding plains, Wyoming’s Tetons are a climber’...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1932. Minya Konka (Gongga Shan)
1932. Minya Konka (Gongga Shan) Nick Clinch At 2:40 p.m. on October 28, 1932, Terris Moore and Richard Burdsall stood on the summit ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1947. The Lost Arrow
1947. The Lost Arrow Allen Steck When Anton Nelson and John Salathé reached the summit of the Lost Arrow via the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1953. K2 Expedition
1953. K2 Expedition Jim Wickwire Hillary and Tenzing's climb to the top of Everest earlier in 1953 provided the world with electrifying ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1963. Everest West Ridge Traverse
1963. Everest West Ridge Traverse Ed Webster For Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, such a tentsite—if you could call it ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1974. North Face of North Twin
It is, hands down, the hardest face in the Canadian Rockies. Five thousand feet of sheer, black, and north-facing limestone, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1980. Makalu West Pillar
1980. Makalu West Pillar Dan Mazur On May 15, at 3:45 p.m., a small bold team from Spokane, Washington completed the first ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
1994. El Capitan Nose Route Free in a Day
1994. El Capitan Nose Route Free In A Day Steve Schneider In 1958, when Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore completed ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
High Praise, Celebrating 52 Magnificent Books from the Club's First Century
High Praise Celebrating 52 magnificent books from the Club’s first century. David Stevenson “To this day mountain climbing remains the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
The Debt We Owe the Americans, The Alpine Club of Canada Reflects on Its Mentor's Centennial
The Debt We Owe the Americans The Alpine Club of Canada reflects on its mentor’s centennial R.W. Sandford ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
100 Years of Alpine Leadership
There have been 32 presidents of the AAC, including me. Like me, many (perhaps too many) were trained in the law. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Degrees of Freedom
Degrees Of Freedom From dry tooling to figure fours, M-climbing in the mountains is redefining the vision of what’s ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Light Traveler
Light Traveler On a long Alaskan single-push ascent, it can feel like forever has come and gone already. Fighting off ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Extraterrestrial BrOther
Extraterrestrial Brother Forty-six hours of magical mystery touring on McKinley’s Father and Son Wall. Kenton Cool “So there’s ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Walls in Shadow
Spindrift avalanches pass the door of our snow cave. A grin grows wide on Ben Gilmore’s face as he ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Cirquetry
CIRQUETRY Trundles from God and other tales of Speed and Freedom in the Cirque of the Unclimhables, Yukon Territory. Jonathan ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Holy Baffman!
Holy Baffman! Speed climbing Mt. Asgard’s Scott and Porter routes, Baffin Island. Cedar Wright Three thousand feet and over 24 ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Project Mayhem
Project Mayhem Mastering the chaos during solo battles on “the hardest big-wall route on the planet,” Mt. Thor, Baffin Island. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
True Value
True Value Finding beauty and danger on the first alpine-style ascent of Torre Egger and a new route on Cerro ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Barbarossa
Barbarossa When getting up is not nearly enough: the first ascent of Yamandaka, in the Indian Karakoram. Mark Richey Braced ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse Middle
Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse Middle Think all the 8000-meter summits have been climbed? Then you need the vision to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
The Shark's Fin
The Shark's Fin After beating back dozens of the world’s best climbers, Meru’s central peak finally succumbed to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
And the Blind Shall See
And The Blind Shall See Thanks to new techniques and dedicated doctors, the end is in sight for the epidemic ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
Releasing Bellavista
Releasing Bellavista Seventy years ago the Tre Cime Group in the Dolomites was home to the world's boldest and most ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2002
North America, United States, Washington, Nooksack Tower, South Face
Nooksack Tower, south face. In July Ben Manfredi and I teamed up to try a beautiful new face in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Washington, Mt. Hardy, the Disappearing Staircase
Mt. Hardy, The Disappearing Staircase. It was amazing that a feature as compelling as the northeast buttress of Mt. Hardy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Washington, The Kloochman, Traverse; Goose Egg Mountain; The Talon
The Kloochman, Traverse; Goose Egg Mountain; The Talon. The Kloochman is an enigmatic massif in the southern Washington Cascades. An ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, various activity. (Editor’s note: Several of the ascents mentioned in this summary, particularly new routes, appear in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Leaning Tower, West Face
Leaning Tower, West Face. On May 16 Jason Pickles and I climbed the West Face of the Leaning Tower free except ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Muir Wall
El Capitan, Muir Wall. “Oh my God, he’s actually going to step off this ledge!” This was my thought ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half-Dome - Mt. Watkins - El Capitan Blitz
Half Dome-Mt. Watkins-El Capitan Blitz. In October Dean Potter and I became the first to climb three Grade VI Yosemite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Nose, Speed Record
El Capitan, Nose, speed record. On October 15 Dean Potter and I went sub-four hours on El Cap’s 3,000-foot Nose, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Tempest
El Capitan, Tempest. June 9, 1999: I am in a doubly overhanging dihedral, approaching The Eyrie. Lulled by the morning sun, I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Slacker's Toil
El Capitan, Slacker's Toil. Slacker’s Toil (VI 5.9 A5b) is a four-and-a-fourth-pitch variant to Surgeon General/Lunar Eclipse. My ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, El Corazon
El Capitan, El Corazon. On September 7 Max Reichel and I looked for a new free-climbable line on the southwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Super Nova Area, High Line
Super Nova Area, High Line. On March 20, 2000, in the Super Nova Area near the Rostrum, Ammon McNeely, and Cedar Wright ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Incredible Hulk, Doodad, Mt. Bandaloo (Pt 10,002')
Incredible Hulk, Doodad, Mt. Bandaloo (Pt 10,002'). Between August 2 and August 22 I traversed the Sierra Nevada from Twin Meadows to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Conness, Plan B
Conness, Plan B. In June Paul Teare and I went in to Conness with a plan to climb the Harding ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages
Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages. Last summer John Fehrman, Bryan Sweeney, and I completed a route (Wall of Ages V-VI 5.11+ ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Citadel, Nothing but Time
Citadel, Nothing But Time. On September 2 Jimmy Haden and Michael Pennings climbed a new route on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Angel Wings, South Arête, Original Route
Angel Wings, South Arête, Original Route. In February 2002 Jason Magness and I made what we believe was the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
Mt. Stewart, Patterson Bluff, Amphitheater Wall, Arctic Lake Wall, Mt. Newcomb
Mike Pennings and I established a direct line (Fallen Angels, IV 5.10+) to the west summit on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Whitney Portal Buttress, Ghostrider
Whitney Portal Buttress, Ghostrider. In June 2000, with Charles Byrne, I first attempted a new route on Whitney Portal Buttress between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Keeler Needle, Australopithecus
Keeler Needle, Australopithecus. Australopithecus was established by Ammon McNeely and Kevin Conti on October 9, 1999, after a week of establishing base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, Asleep at the Wheel
Mt. Chamberlain, Asleep at the Wheel. In August Mike Pennings and I checked out Mt. Chamberlain, located southwest of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002
North America, United States, Arizona, Baboquivari Peak, I'itoi Dance
Baboquivari Peak, I'itoi Dance. In April 2000 Jackie Carroll and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Baboquivari ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2002