American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

503 Records

Title Publication Year
David Ross Brower, 1912-2000
DAVID ROSS BROWER 1912-2000 Cancer claimed David Brower on November 5. During October, in pain and knowing that only weeks were ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Paul Thomas Doherty, 1919-2000
PAUL THOMAS DOHERTY 1919-2000 The “Old Fish Cop” left this world from his home in Gorham, New Hampshire, on June 18, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Peter Limmer, Jr., 1920-2000
PETER LIMMER, JR. 1920–2000 While not a member of the American Alpine Club, Peter, as assistant to his late father and ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
George Irving Bell, 1926-2000
GEORGE IRVING BELL 1926–2000 When George Bell, who made significant first ascents in the Andes and the Karakoram, died on May 28, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Gilbert J. Roberts, M.D., 1934-2000
GILBERT J. ROBERTS, M.D. 1934-2000 Gil Roberts, a fine expedition mountaineer from the 1950s and 1960s, died on July 15, 2000, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Charles Marshall Pratt, 1939-2000
CHARLES MARSHALL PRATT 1939-2000 Ah, Chuck, Chuck, so lately here, so soon gone. How can I be writing this? You, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Laura Evans, 1949-2000
LAURA EVANS 1949-2000 As I approached the summit of Mt. Aconcagua, Laura Evans raised her arms to the sky. She ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Charles "Chuck" Wade Comstock, 1960-2000
CHARLES “CHUCK” WADE COMSTOCK 1960-2000 Let’s just split right here, Roman. I got a stove and a cook pot, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
David Duane Paisley, 1961-2000
DAVID DUANE PAISLEY 1961–2000 Colorado Springs-based professional guide and mountaineer David Paisley died May 31 as the result of a crevasse fall ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Seth Shaw, 1962-2000
SETH SHAW 1962-2000 Seth Thomas “ST” Shaw and Tim Wagner had successfully climbed a new route on the east face/...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Cameron Tague, 1967-2000
CAMERON TAGUE 1967-2000 On July 6, Cameron Tague slipped off of Broadway, the ledge system that splits the Diamond’s imposing ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2001
Necrology
Robert C. Hind 1911–2000 Michelle Potkin 1956–2000 Adam Kloff 1972–2000 Brian Reagan 1972–2000 John Jackson 1976–2000
AAJ
Notes
2001
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Fifty-Fourth Annual Report on the Safety Committees of The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada
This is the fifty-fourth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-third issue in which The Alpine Club ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2001
Falling Ice, Poor Position, Alberta, Banff National Park, Louise Falls
CANADA FALLING ICE, POOR POSITION Alberta, Banff National Park, Louise Falls On January 20, a number of parties were climbing on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Ice, Protection Failure—Ice Ax Tool, Alberta, Banff National Park, Wicked Wanda
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION FAILURE-ICE AX TOOL Alberta, Banff National Park, Wicked Wanda F.B. (32) was leading the crux pitch ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Ice, Climbing on Thin Ice
On February 13, C.W. (26) and I, M.H. (38), were climbing The Sorcerer, a Grade V water ice climb. The first ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Snow, Avalanche (Twice), Poor Position, Late Start, Inadequate Equipment—Stove, Alberta, Lake Louise, Wapta Ice Field, Peyto Glacier Approach
FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE (TWICE), POOR POSITION, LATE START, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT-STOVE Alberta, Lake Louise, Wapta Ice Field, Peyto Glacier Approach ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Rock—No Belay, Lack of Communication, Alberta, Banff National Park, Back of the Lake
FALL ON ROCK-NO BELAY, LACK OF COMMUNICATION Alberta, Banff National Park, Back of the Lake On June 17, two experienced sport ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Slip on Mixed Terrain, Inadequate Equipment (Ice Ax in Pack), Exceeding Abilities, Alberta, Banff National Park, Cascade Mountain
SUP ON MIXED TERRAIN, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT (ICE AX IN PACK), EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Banff National Park, Cascade Mountain The story ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Rock, Carabiner Failure—Probably Cross-Loaded, Alberta, Banff National Park, Back of the Lake
FALL ON ROCK, CARABINER FAILURE-PROBABLY CROSS-LOADED Alberta, Banff National Park, Back of the Lake On July 29, A.L. was attempting ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Handhold Came Off—Fall on Rock, Protection (Bolt) Pulled Out, Alberta, Lady MacDonald, Stoneworks Crag
HANDHOLD CAME OFF-FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION (BOLT) PULLED OUT Alberta, Lady MacDonald, Stoneworks Crag On August 4, S. (20) was climbing a 5.12...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Falling Rock—Dislodged, Fall on Snow, No Belay or Protection, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Lefroy
FALLING ROCK-DISLODGED, FALL ON SNOW, NO BELAY OR PROTECTION Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Lefroy On August 18, four climbers were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Falling Rock, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Little
FALLING ROCK Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Little On August 29, a party of four was ascending the normal route on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Ice/Snow, Unroped, Poor Route Choice, Haste, Alberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca
FALL ON ICE/SNOW, UNROPED, POOR ROUTE CHOICE, HASTE Alberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca On August 29 at 0500, F.W. (43), S....
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Handhold Came Off—Failure to Test Hold, Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Colin
HANDHOLD CAME OFF–FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Colin On September 7, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Avalanche, Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Woolley
AVALANCHE, FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Woolley On November 13 at 1000, a party of three (ages: 25, 26, 26) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Rappel Failure—Misperception of Anchor, Fall on Ice
RAPPEL FAILURE-MISPERCEPTION OF ANCHOR, FALL ON ICE Alberta, Banff National Park, Selenium Falls On December 12, a party of three had ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Alberta, Roche a Perdix, Drambuie Deamon
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Alberta, Roche a Perdix, Drambuie Deamon On December 16,1.R. attempted to solo climb ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Avalanche, Fall on Snow and Rock, Poor Position—Unsafe Conditions, British Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Burgess
AVALANCHE, FALL ON SNOW AND ROCK, POOR POSITION–UNSAFE CONDITIONS British Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Burgess On April 21, a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Belay Anchor, Inadequate Belay, British Columbia, Squamish, Sickle
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION–BELAY ANCHOR, INADEQUATE BELAY British Columbia, Squamish, Sickle Two climbers were ascending a route called ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Slip on MIxed Terrain, Rappel Error, Fatigue, Dehydration, British Columbia, Tantalus Range, Mount Dione
SLIP ON MIXED TERRAIN, RAPPEL ERROR, FATIGUE, DEHYDRATION British Columbia, Tantalus Range, Mount Dione On September 24, two experienced climbers were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Rock Holding Protection Broke—Fall on Rock, Protecion Pulled Out, British Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Stephen
ROCK HOLDING PROTECTION BROKE OFF–FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT British Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Stephen On September 27, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities, Ontario, Milton, Buffalo Crag
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Ontario, Milton, Buffalo Crag On Sunday, April 2, G.S. (56) was leading Tapestry, a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Ice, Harness Came Off—Not Buckled Correctly and Not Cliped in to Leg Yokes, Quebec, Gatineau Park, Cabin Creek Falls
FALL ON ICE, HARNESS CAME OFF-NOT BUCKLED CORRECTLY AND NOT CUPPED IN TO LEG YOKES Quebec, Gatineau Park, Cabin Creek ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Falling Rock—Handhold Came Off, Quebec, Gatineau Park, Home Cliff
FALLING ROCK-HANDHOLD CAME OFF Quebec, Gatineau Park, Home Cliff On April 15, several climbers were top-roping on “Home Cliff” at the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Falling Rock, Handhold Failed, Quebec, Mont Gros Bras
FALLING ROCK, HANDHOLD FAILED Quebec, Mont Gros Bras S.C. (25) and R.B. (29) were climbing “Valerie Reverie”, a 5.8 route at ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Slip on Ice, AMS, Exposure, Inadequate Clothing, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
SLIP ON ICE, AMS, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress. May 13, Rangers Kevin Moore and Scott Metcalfe ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Snow, Fatigue, Inadequate Equipment, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 16 at 1840, Christoph Haider (24) fell from below Denali ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall Into Crevasse, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Northwest Fork, Kahiltna Glacier
FALL INTO CREVASSE Alaska, Mount McKinley, Northwest Fork, Kahiltna Glacier On May 13, The Velvet Underground Expedition, Courtland Shafer (33) and Glenn ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Serac Fall, Alaska, Mount Johnson, Ruth Gorge
SERAC FALL Alaska, Mount Johnson, Ruth Gorge On May 15, Seth Shaw (38) and Tim Wagner (34) checked into the Talkeetna Ranger Station ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HAPE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress At 1000 on May 27, Richard Gustafson (34) and William Ross (45)—clients from two separate expeditions—were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
AMS, Climbing Alone (Party Separated), Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
AMS, CLIMBING ALONE (PARTY SEPARATED), INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress The International Climbing Buddies Expedition, consisting of Ralph Nicholson, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Respiratory Distress, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
RESPIRATORY DISTRESS Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 26, the Casade-Dacks Expedition of Ron Fridell (50), Sid Perkins, and Don Andrews (43) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Pulmonary Edema, Alaska, Mt. McKinley, West Buttress
PULMONARY EDEMA Alaska, Mt. McKinley, West Buttress While the incident with Andrews was unfolding at 13,500 feet, there was another incident ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Falling Ice, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Mount Johnson
FALLING ICE Alaska, Mount McKinley, Mount Johnson At 1500 on June 8, Jeff Benowitz (30) and partner Chris Turiano (29) started climbing a new ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HAPE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Charles Grey (40) of the Unfinished Business Expedition (party of 2), reported symptoms of HAPE to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Illness—Abdominal Pain, Miscommunication—Failure to Disclose Medical Condition, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
ILLNESS-ABDOMINAL PAIN, MISCOMMUNICATION-FAILURE TO DISCLOSE MEDICAL CONDITION Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On June 9 at the 16,700-foot level of the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Fall on Snow, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Denali Pass
FALL ON SNOW Alaska, Mount McKinley, Denali Pass On June 10 at 1945, Lev Sarkisov (61) of the Denali-2000 Khalatian Expedition (D2K) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
AMS—Ascending Too Fast, Climbing "Alone"—But Depending Upon Others, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Denali Pass
AMS–ASCENDING TOO FAST, CLIMBING "ALONE"–BUT DEPENDING UPON OTHERS Alaska, Mount McKinley, Denali Pass On June 25 at 1940, Ranger Meg ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001
Avalanche—Unsafe Conditions, Weather, Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment—No Ice Ax, Alaska, Chugach State Park, Flat Top Mountain
AVALANCHE-UNSAFE CONDITIONS, WEATHER, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–NO ICE AX Alaska, Chugach State Park, Flat Top Mountain On Saturday November 11, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2001