American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

503 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Washington, Mount Rainier National Park, Mount Rainier, Backstage Pass
Accounts from the various climbs and expeditions of the world are listed geographically from north to south and from west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. Big news was the free climbing of two El Capitan routes. The first to go was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Russian Climbing Championships
Yosemite Valley, Russian Climbing Championships. The 2000 Russian Rock Climbing Championships took place in Yosemite Valley from August 15-September 10. All participants ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, New Route
El Capitan, New Route. It was reported that E.J. Luis Garcia Gallego and Alfonso Cerdán (Spain) established the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Lurking Fear, First Free Ascent
El Capitan, Lurking Fear, First Free Ascent. We’d come to free the Muir. My partner wigged at the possibility ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
El Capitan, Golden Gate
Free climbing on El Capitan: days on a wall, high exposure, awkward chimneys and offwidth stuff, and, last but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face, Children of the Corn, New Route
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face, Children of the Corn, New Route. On May 20, Steve Gerberding, Dave Griffith, and I left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, The Long Walk
Half Dome, The Long Walk. In the fall of 1999, Bryan Law and I fixed two new pitches on the northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Patterson Bluff, Western Slope, Various Activity
Patterson Bluff, Western Slope, Various Activity. Located just down the road from the Courtright Reservoir area, Patterson has long been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Evolution Traverse, First Complete Ascent, Previously Unreported
Evolution Traverse, First Complete Ascent, Previously Unreported. In early summer, 1999, I finally traversed the Evolution Crest. This is a jagged, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Wheeler Crest, The Big K-Mart, Four More Shopping Days
Wheeler Crest, The Big K-Mart, Four More Shopping Days. On December 21, Barb Howe, Eric Sampson, and I established a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Nevada, Red Rocks, Various Activity
Red Rocks, Various Activity. Due the vastness of the area and the cracks and faces that characterize these pinnacles, several ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, House Range, Notch Peak, North Face, Book of Saturday, Previously Unreported
Notch Peak, North Face, Book of Saturday, Previously Unreported. Between May, 1997, and May, 1999, the late Tom Lyde and I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, Various Activity. Numerous towers were climbed south of Moab in Joe Wilson Canyon, which can be found just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Haagenshlong Tower, First Ascent, Previously Unreported
Haagenshlong Tower, First Ascent, Previously Unreported. Haagenshlong Tower is on the north side of Buckhorn Wash on the comer wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, El Sombrero, Just Another BBQ
El Sombrero, Just Another BBQ. This spectacular line on El Sombrero at the end of the Mexican Mountain Road in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Kolob Canyons, Various New Route Activity
Zion, Various New Route Activity. In early May, 2000, I soloed a six-pitch variation between Wind, Sand, and Stars and The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Kolob Canyons, Paria Point, Blitzkrieg
Paria Point, Blitzkrieg. Established in May by Jason Stevens and Jared Nielson, Blitzkrieg (IV 5.9+ A2+/C2+) is an excellent Zion ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Cathedral Mountain, Various Activity
Cathedral Mountain, Various Activity. On April 1, Tom Jones and I established the nine-pitch Fool’s Buttress (III 5.8 A0), which ascends ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, The Narrows, Freak Show, and Sheer Lunacy
The Narrows, Freak Show, and Sheer Lunacy, First Free Ascent. In the spring, I climbed a new seven-pitch route called ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Moonlight Buttress, East Face, Whiteys on the Moon
Moonlight Buttress, East Face, Whiteys on the Moon. The natural line of our route, Whiteys on the Moon (V 5.10 A3, 9 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Angels' Landing, Swiss-American, One-Day Ascent
Angels’ Landing, Swiss-American, One-Day Ascent. In October, Fly’n Brian McCray and I climbed the Swiss American route (VI 5.9R ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Mt. Moroni, East Face, Plan B, Previously Unreported
Mt. Moroni, East Face, Plan B, Previously Unreported. Plan B (IV 5.10 C1, or 5.12b, 6 pitches, 8 bolts) is located on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Abraham, Southeast Face, Dr. Thunder, Previously Unreported
Abraham, Southeast Face, Dr. Thunder, Previously Unreported. Dr. Thunder (VI 5.10 A3), established in October, 1999, by Boulos Ayad, Joe French, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Isaac, Stigmata
Isaac, Stigmata. In September, Fly’n Brian McCray and I hoped to climb the elusive Middendorf-Shipley route the Radiator in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, The Sentinel, East Face, The Belly of the Buddha, Previously Unreported
The Sentinel, East Face, The Belly of the Buddha, Previously Unreported. The Belly of the Buddha (V 5.10 A2+, 12 Pitches), first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Left Twin Brother, Northwest Face, The Promised Land, Previously Unreported
Left Twin Brother, Northwest Face, The Promised Land, Previously Unreported. The large, top-to-bottom, crescent-shaped, left-facing dihedral system on the Left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Left Twin Brother, Ghetto Brother
Left Twin Brother, Ghetto Brother. Over six days in late October, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird, Kirsten Kremer, and I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Bridge Mountain, Northwest Face, Desert Alpine, Previously Unreported
Bridge Mountain, Northwest Face, Desert Alpine, Previously Unreported. The name of the route, Desert Alpine (V 5.11 A1+, 18 pitches), doesn’t ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Johnson Mountain, West Face, Mojo Rising
Johnson Mountain, West Face, Mojo Rising. Located on the left-hand side of Johnson Mountain, Mojo Rising (IV/V 5.10 A1, 9 pitches, 3 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, The Watchman, West Face, Central Pillar Watchman Direct, Previously Unreported
The Watchman, West Face, Central Pillar Watchman Direct, Previously Unreported. This new route (V 5.10 C1+ W.Y.A., 16 pitches, 7 bolts), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Mt. Kinesava, The Millennium Falcon
Mt. Kinesava, The Millennium Falcon. The first three pitches of The Millennium Falcon were climbed by Calvin Herbert, Andrew Nichols, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Various First Ascents
Rocky Mountain National Park, Various First Ascents. Kath Pyke and I climbed a number of new routes in the major ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, The Pig Series
North Chasm View Wall, The Pig Series. The Pig Series is comprised of two routes, No Pig Deal (V 5.11+ R) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, Black Planet, Second Ascent and New Variation
North Chasm View Wall, Black Planet, Second Ascent and New Variation. Over the period of March 15-25,1 left my home ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Prospectors Mountain, Northeast Face Direct, Previously Unreported
Prospectors Mountain, Northeast Face Direct, Previously Underreported. The Northeast Face Direct route (IV 5.11a Al) went up in ground-up traditional ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
Various Activity
The summer of 2000 was another exceptionally dry one in the Teton Range. Many of the big alpine routes on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, The Enclosure, Northwest Ridge, Variation
The Enclosure, Northwest Ridge, Variation. A series of corners, formed of predominately white rock, is located several hundred feet left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran, New Route
Mt. Moran, New Route. In July, John Kelley and Jim Beyer added a new route to the south face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Traverse, Speed
Grand Traverse, Speed. During the summer of 2000, after finding out that arthritis had settled into my hips for good, I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Wind River Peak, Tempest Tower, Second Ascent
Wind River Peak, Tempest Tower, Second Ascent. It appears that Matt Flicek and I unknowingly managed to do a second “...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Montana, Glacier National Park, Various Activity
Glacier National Park, Various Activity. A cool, dry fall, a full moon, and the sudden arrival of an arctic front ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Montana, Glacier National Park, Mt. Edwards, North Face, Chaos Theory
Mt. Edwards, North Face, Chaos Theory. On previous trips in previous years, I often found myself drooling hopelessly as I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Bitterroot Mountains, Blodgett Canyon, Various Routes, Previously Unreported
Considered too blank and featureless for climbing, the massive south face of the Drip Buttress remained untouched for years. Bruce ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Bitterroot Mountains, Blodgett Canyon, Drip Buttress, McWonder Muffins
Blodgett Canyon, Drip Buttress, McWonder Muffins, Previously Unreported. Eric Roberts and I climbed a new five-pitch aid route in October, 1999. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Bitterroot Mountains, Various Activity
Bitterroot Mountains, Various Activity. An entry for new climbs in the Bitterroot Mountains is well overdue, since the last AAJ ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
Fred Burr Buttress, The Chimney, New Route, Previously Unreported
Bruce Anderson and I climbed this route, The Chimney (IV 5.10+, 8 pitches), in a one-day push in mid-summer 1993. The route, on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Wyoming, Bitterroot Mountains, Roaring Lion Canyon, New Routes
Roaring Lion Canyon, New Routes. Many routes have recently been established in this little known canyon, primarily on the Thin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Mt. Doonerak, First Winter Ascent, Previously Unreported
Mt. Doonerak, First Winter Ascent, Previously Unreported. On March 17, 1996, Jon Miller and I flew into the North Fork of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Hess, East Buttress, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported
Mt. Hess, East Buttress, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported. In May, 1997, Jon Miller and I climbed up snow and low-fifth-class rock ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001