American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

503 Records

Title Publication Year
Necrology
After a number of years of ever-more difficult and impressive ascents, the year 2000, at first glance, seemed to represent a ...
AAJ
Notes
2001
Trick of the Light, A rope, a Rack, and a Pack on the Back
Trick of the Light A rope, a rack, and a pack on the back Jonathan Copp Sprawled in the glacier-fed ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
For Better or for Worse
December, 1999. Steve Schneider was in Las Vegas for a slide show from his solo first ascent on the Central Tower ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
The International Spantik Expedition, Different Styles on the Golden Pillar
The International Spantik Expedition Different styles on the Golden Pillar Mikhail Davy, Russia, and Marko Prezelj, Slovenia Prezelj article translated ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
Mt. McKinley's Slovak Route, Seeking the Vision in the Alaska Range
Mt. McKinley s Slovak Route Seeking the vision in the Alaska Range Scott Backes During the long flight, I debated, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
The Learning Process, Living the Dream
The Learning Process Living the dream Ian Parnell, England The year 2000 was my chance to live the dream, to quit ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
The North Face of Kangtega, Perseverence on a Himalayan Wall
The North Face of Kangtega Perseverance on a Himalayan wall Valeri Babanov, Russia Kangtega…. What does it mean to me? ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
Shivling's Direct North Buttress, The Quest for the Magic Line
Shivling’s Direct North Buttress The quest for the magic line Thomas Huber, Germany If I continued climbing, I wouldn’...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
Shall We Take a Drill? The Riddle of Style in the Cordillera Blanca
Shall We Take a Drill? The riddle of style in the Cordillera Blanca Leo Houlding, United Kingdom Shall we take ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
In the Footsteps of Vikings, Exploratory Climbing in Southeast Greenland
In the Footsteps of Vikings Exploratory climbing in southeast Greenland Mark Richey Sometimes, the best adventures in climbing begin with ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
Treading Softly on Tiedemann, Meeting the Challenge in Canada's Untrammeled Playground
Treading Softly on Tiedemann Meeting the challenge in Canada’s untrammeled playground Simon Richardson, Scotland The Combatant-Tiedemann-Asperity Wall is one ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
The Tetons, Revisted
In the late 1970s and early 1980s, the Teton Range was a dynamic training ground for American alpinists. The creation ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
Moran's South Buttress in Winter, A Bird's Eye View of Obsession
Moran’s South Buttress in Winter A bird’s eye view of obsession Renny Jackson March 5 From our warm and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
The State of the Art, Five Ranges, Five Views
The State of the Art Five ranges, five views It is all too easy to proclaim a route done today ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
Alaska, Baby Steps: Lessons from Alaskan Alpinism
Alaska Baby steps: lessons from Alaskan alpinism Steve House American culture is obsessed by evolution, the concept of progress toward ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
Patagonia, Looking Back, Toward the Future
Patagonia Looking back, toward the future Rolando Garibotti, Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina “El futuro llego hace rato” (The future arrived ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
The Alps, A Glance at Modern Alpine Style
The Alps A glance at modern alpine style Claude Gardien, France translated by Eliza Moran with special thanks to Mark ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
The Karakoram, Whatever Your Game, The Karakoram Has It
The Karakoram Whatever your game, the Karakoram has it Stephen Venables, England The Editor asked me to do something on “...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
The Himalaya, Observations from the Roof of the World
The Himalaya Observations from the roof of the world Andrej Štremfelj, Slovenia translated by Ana Percic From its inception, alpinism ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
Mountain Medicine, Performance-Enhancing Drugs and Climbing
Mountain Medicine Performance-enhancing drugs and climbing Geoff Tabin, MD, and Scott McIntosh, MS In 1953, Hermann Buhl staggered off the summit ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2001
North America, United States, Washington, Mount Rainier National Park, Mount Rainier, Backstage Pass
Accounts from the various climbs and expeditions of the world are listed geographically from north to south and from west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. Big news was the free climbing of two El Capitan routes. The first to go was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Russian Climbing Championships
Yosemite Valley, Russian Climbing Championships. The 2000 Russian Rock Climbing Championships took place in Yosemite Valley from August 15-September 10. All participants ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, New Route
El Capitan, New Route. It was reported that E.J. Luis Garcia Gallego and Alfonso Cerdán (Spain) established the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Lurking Fear, First Free Ascent
El Capitan, Lurking Fear, First Free Ascent. We’d come to free the Muir. My partner wigged at the possibility ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
El Capitan, Golden Gate
Free climbing on El Capitan: days on a wall, high exposure, awkward chimneys and offwidth stuff, and, last but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face, Children of the Corn, New Route
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face, Children of the Corn, New Route. On May 20, Steve Gerberding, Dave Griffith, and I left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, The Long Walk
Half Dome, The Long Walk. In the fall of 1999, Bryan Law and I fixed two new pitches on the northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Patterson Bluff, Western Slope, Various Activity
Patterson Bluff, Western Slope, Various Activity. Located just down the road from the Courtright Reservoir area, Patterson has long been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Evolution Traverse, First Complete Ascent, Previously Unreported
Evolution Traverse, First Complete Ascent, Previously Unreported. In early summer, 1999, I finally traversed the Evolution Crest. This is a jagged, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Wheeler Crest, The Big K-Mart, Four More Shopping Days
Wheeler Crest, The Big K-Mart, Four More Shopping Days. On December 21, Barb Howe, Eric Sampson, and I established a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Nevada, Red Rocks, Various Activity
Red Rocks, Various Activity. Due the vastness of the area and the cracks and faces that characterize these pinnacles, several ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, House Range, Notch Peak, North Face, Book of Saturday, Previously Unreported
Notch Peak, North Face, Book of Saturday, Previously Unreported. Between May, 1997, and May, 1999, the late Tom Lyde and I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, Various Activity. Numerous towers were climbed south of Moab in Joe Wilson Canyon, which can be found just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Haagenshlong Tower, First Ascent, Previously Unreported
Haagenshlong Tower, First Ascent, Previously Unreported. Haagenshlong Tower is on the north side of Buckhorn Wash on the comer wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, El Sombrero, Just Another BBQ
El Sombrero, Just Another BBQ. This spectacular line on El Sombrero at the end of the Mexican Mountain Road in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Kolob Canyons, Various New Route Activity
Zion, Various New Route Activity. In early May, 2000, I soloed a six-pitch variation between Wind, Sand, and Stars and The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Kolob Canyons, Paria Point, Blitzkrieg
Paria Point, Blitzkrieg. Established in May by Jason Stevens and Jared Nielson, Blitzkrieg (IV 5.9+ A2+/C2+) is an excellent Zion ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Cathedral Mountain, Various Activity
Cathedral Mountain, Various Activity. On April 1, Tom Jones and I established the nine-pitch Fool’s Buttress (III 5.8 A0), which ascends ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, The Narrows, Freak Show, and Sheer Lunacy
The Narrows, Freak Show, and Sheer Lunacy, First Free Ascent. In the spring, I climbed a new seven-pitch route called ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Moonlight Buttress, East Face, Whiteys on the Moon
Moonlight Buttress, East Face, Whiteys on the Moon. The natural line of our route, Whiteys on the Moon (V 5.10 A3, 9 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Angels' Landing, Swiss-American, One-Day Ascent
Angels’ Landing, Swiss-American, One-Day Ascent. In October, Fly’n Brian McCray and I climbed the Swiss American route (VI 5.9R ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Mt. Moroni, East Face, Plan B, Previously Unreported
Mt. Moroni, East Face, Plan B, Previously Unreported. Plan B (IV 5.10 C1, or 5.12b, 6 pitches, 8 bolts) is located on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Abraham, Southeast Face, Dr. Thunder, Previously Unreported
Abraham, Southeast Face, Dr. Thunder, Previously Unreported. Dr. Thunder (VI 5.10 A3), established in October, 1999, by Boulos Ayad, Joe French, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Isaac, Stigmata
Isaac, Stigmata. In September, Fly’n Brian McCray and I hoped to climb the elusive Middendorf-Shipley route the Radiator in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, The Sentinel, East Face, The Belly of the Buddha, Previously Unreported
The Sentinel, East Face, The Belly of the Buddha, Previously Unreported. The Belly of the Buddha (V 5.10 A2+, 12 Pitches), first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Left Twin Brother, Northwest Face, The Promised Land, Previously Unreported
Left Twin Brother, Northwest Face, The Promised Land, Previously Unreported. The large, top-to-bottom, crescent-shaped, left-facing dihedral system on the Left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Left Twin Brother, Ghetto Brother
Left Twin Brother, Ghetto Brother. Over six days in late October, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird, Kirsten Kremer, and I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Bridge Mountain, Northwest Face, Desert Alpine, Previously Unreported
Bridge Mountain, Northwest Face, Desert Alpine, Previously Unreported. The name of the route, Desert Alpine (V 5.11 A1+, 18 pitches), doesn’t ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Johnson Mountain, West Face, Mojo Rising
Johnson Mountain, West Face, Mojo Rising. Located on the left-hand side of Johnson Mountain, Mojo Rising (IV/V 5.10 A1, 9 pitches, 3 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2001