American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

462 Records

Title Publication Year
California Mountaineering Club
California Mountaineering Club. The California Mountaineering Club is now ten years old. We have nearly 300 members, mostly from southern California ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2000
Arizona Mountaineering Club
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) increased its membership in 1999 to more than 500 and added new programs for ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2000
The Colorado Mountain Club
The Colorado Mountain Club. 1999 was a busy year for The Colorado Mountain Club. The Club graduated 258 students in its technical ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2000
Marjory Bridge Farquhar, 1903-1999
MARJORY BRIDGE FARQUHAR 1903–1999 Marjory Farquhar, one of America’s outstanding pioneer women climbers, died in San Francisco on January 22 after ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Thomas Hughes Jukes, 1906-1999
THOMAS HUGHES JUKES 1906-1999 Tom Jukes was born in Hastings, England, in 1906 and died on November 1, 1999, in Berkeley, CA, after ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Paul Kiesow Petzoldt, 1908-1999
PAUL KIESOW PETZOLDT 1908-1999 Legendary mountaineer, educator and conservationist Paul Kiesow Petzoldt died in Maine on October 6. From the moment ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Harold L. Pinsch, 1917-1999
HAROLD L. PINSCH 1917-1999 The mountain rescue community, and in particular Olympic Mountain Rescue (OMR), lost a strong advocate and ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
William D. Hackett, 1918-1999
WILLIAM D. HACKETT 1918–1999 Bill Hackett died in Portland from complications following heart surgery. Bill had a distinguished military career, a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Henry W. Kendall, 1926-1999
HENRY W. KENDALL 1926-1999 Henry Kendall died during an underwater photography dive at Wakulla Springs, FL, on February 15. He suffered ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Charles Davis Hollister, 1936-1999
CHARLES DAVIS HOLLISTER 1936-1999 Charley Hollister was an inexhaustibly cheerful and upbeat person with a Will Rogers-like wit, an adolescent’...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Alex Lowe, 1958-1999
“The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!” —Alex Lowe By the time of his ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Yossi Brain, 1967-1999
YOSSI BRAIN 1967-1999 When trying to write of someone when they are gone, it becomes necessary to call up a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Dave Bridges, 1970-1999
DAVE BRIDGES 1970-1999 “The only death you die is the death you die every day by not living. Dream big ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Necrology
Otto Titus Trott (1911-1999) Anderson Bakewell (1912-1999) Paul V. Livingston (1914-1999) Harold W. Stevenson (1921-1999) Ralph Johnson (1923-1999) Akio Horiuchi (1933...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2000
Accidents in North American Mountaineering — Fifty-Third Annual Report of the Safety Committees of the Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada
Canada: Many thanks to Rod Plasman for compiling last year’s accident information. The number of accidents that occurred in 1999 ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2000
Falling Ice, Poor Position
On January 24 a party of three had begun the first of pitch Ice Nine, a water ice Grade 6 route. One ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Off Route, Inadequate Equipment, Climbing Alone, Weather, Inexperience — Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount Snowdome
OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount Snowdome J.R. (28) hitchhiked to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Falling Ice, Fall on Ice — Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Wilson, Oh Le Tabernac
FALLING ICE, FALL ON ICE Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Wilson, Oh Le Tabernac On March 17 the lead climber of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Cornice Failure — Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount Andromeda
CORNICE FAILURE Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount Andromeda At approximately 0230 on May 30, two climbers (22 and 23) departed the climbers’ ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Protection Pulled, Off Route — Alberta, Ha Ling Peak (Formerly Known as Chinaman's Peak)
PROTECTION PULLED, OFF ROUTE Alberta, Ha Ling Peak (formerly known as Chinaman's Peak) On July 6, two climbers set out on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Weather, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience — Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mounts Charlton and Unwin
WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mounts Charlton and Unwin On July 15, two inexperienced climbers (both 25) climbed Mount ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, and Stranded, Inexperience — Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, and STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca On July 19, a party ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Rock, Wrong Route, Inappropriate Equipment — Alberta, Banff National Park, Castle Mountain
FALL ON ROCK, WRONG ROUTE, INAPPROPRIATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Banff National Park, Castle Mountain On July 27 a party of two began ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall in Crevasse — Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield
FALL IN CREVASSE Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield At 1840 on August 5, two climbers came off the Columbia Icefield to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Rockfall, Poor Position, Poor Judgment — Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Edith Cavell
ROCKFALL, POOR POSITION, POOR JUDGMENT Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Edith Cavell On August 20, two climbers (F 43, M 54) began ascending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Ice, Equipment Failure — Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Aberdeen
FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILURE Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Aberdeen On August 20, L.S. (40) was guiding K.B. (61) on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Rock, Loose Rock, Fatigue — Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Victoria
FALL ON ROCK, LOOSE ROCK, FATIGUE Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Victoria I (35) was climbing with two friends, H.N. (32) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Rock, Handhold Pulled — Alberta, Mount Laurie (Yamnuska)
FALL ON ROCK, HANDHOLD PULLED Alberta, Mount Laurie (Yamnuska) On September 17, C.H. and C.S. were climbing “Grillmair Chimney” (5.5) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Poor Position, Inexperience and Avalanche (Two Separate Accidents) — Alberta, Banff National Park, Cascade Waterfall
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCE and AVALANCHE (TWO SEPARATE ACCIDENTS) Alberta, Banff National Park, Cascade Waterfall These ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Snow, No Helmet, Climbing Alone — British Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Mount Stanley
FALL ON SNOW, NO HELMET, CLIMBING ALONE British Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Mount Stanley On August 6 a climber was reported ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Avalanche, Inexperience — British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson K.G. and M.J. (both 19) were in a party ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Illness — British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Mount Uto
ILLNESS British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Mount Uto On August 28, five climbers were on their way up the Southwest Ridge ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Weather — British Columbia, Comox, Mount Alber-Edward
WEATHER British Columbia, Comox, Mount Albert-Edward Three climbers were reported overdue on September 17. They had been attempting a four- to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Slip on Rock, Unroped, No Hard Hat — Ontario, Milton, Buffalo Crag
SLIP ON ROCK, UNROPED, NO HARD HAT Ontario, Milton, Buffalo Crag On Sunday, March 28 F.M. (26) was scouting out the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Protection Pulled, Inexperience — Ontario, Milton, Kelso Crags
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, PROTECTION PULLED, INEXPERIENCE Ontario, Milton, Kelso Crags On Sunday, August 15 P.D. (36) of Tonawanda, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Avalanche — Alaska, Wrangell St. Elias National Park and Preserve, University Range
AVALANCHE Alaska, Wrangell St. Elias National Park and Preserve, University Range James Haberl (41) from Whistler, BC, Keith Reid, and Graeme ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self Arrest, No Belay — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF ARREST, NO BELAY Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress A three-person Spanish expedition named “McKinley 99” ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Snow, AMS — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW, AMS Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress The Denali Ski “Challenge 1999” expedition from Italy included skier Mauro Rumez ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Exceeding Abilities — Off Route, Inadequate Equipment and Water, Hypothermia, Frostbite — Alaska, Mount McKinley
EXCEEDING ABILITIES - OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND WATER, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITE Alaska, Mount McKinley On May 3, the Densan party from ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Falling Ice, Fall on Ice, Ice Screw Failed
On May 12 Malcolm Daly (43) and Jim Donini (57) of Boulder, Colorado flew onto the Tokositna Glacier at 7,500 feet to attempt a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fatigue, Dehydration, Frostbite, Climbing Alone — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FATIGUE, DEHYDRATION, FROSTBITE, CLIMBING ALONE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Tomoyasu Ishikawa (30) began his solo ascent of Mount McKinley from ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Inadequate Food and Water, Climbing Alone — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
INADEQUATE FOOD AND WATER, CLIMBING ALONE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Shigeo Tamoi (33) began his solo climb of Mount McKinley’...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Inexperience, Failure to Turn Back — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
INEXPERIENCE, FAILURE TO TURN BACK Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Mike McCarthy (32) faxed his Mount McKinley climbing registration form to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Snow Blindness, Acute Mountain Sickness — Alaska, Mount McKinley
SNOW BLINDNESS, ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS Alaska, Mount McKinley On June 15, both a South African McKinley expedition, consisting of Ian Bailey, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HIGH ALTITUDE CEREBRAL EDEMA (HACE) Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress The “Kiwi Denali” expedition included Richard Walshe, Andre Bell, Dave ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall into Crevasse, Exceeding Abilities — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL INTO CREVASSE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On the morning of July 5 at approximately 0100 the “Death March 2000” ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Rock, Rope Severed by Falling Rock — Alaska, Portage Glacier
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVERED BY FALLING ROCK Alaska, Portage Glacier I am sorry to report the death of Steve ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Protection Pulled Out When Weighted — Fall on Rock, Trying to Stick to a Schedule — California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan
PROTECTION PULLED OUT WHEN WEIGHTED–FALL ON ROCK, TRYING TO STICK TO A SCHEDULE California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Rope Too Short, Inattention — California, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY – ROPE TOO SHORT, INATTENTION California, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress I’d like to say ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000
Stranded - Weather, Inadequate Equipment, Hypothermia — California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome
STRANDED – WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, HYPOTHERMIA California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome English climbers Justin (28) and Luke (about 25) arrived in the Valley ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2000