American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

462 Records

Title Publication Year
Preface
On November 2, Slovenian Tomaž Humar reached the high point of his climb on the south face of Dhaulagiri I. Behind ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2000
The South Face of Dhaulagiri
The South Face of Dhaulagiri An interview with Tomaž Humar by Antonella Cicogna, Italy translated by Emanuele Pellizzari, with Christian ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The South Face of Mount Foraker
The South Face of Mount Foraker Trying harder in the Alaska Range by Steve Larson July 4th, 1998, and I am ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The Burkett Needle
The Burkett Needle The voyage of the celestial tramps by Lionel Daudet, France translated by Marina Heusch Unbelievable! He is ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The Bear's Tooth
Except for myself and Glenn Dunmire, our team of five were alpine neophytes. The group had been hastily put together ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The Arwa Tower
The Arwa Tower An old-fashioned adventure by Mick Fowler, United Kingdom “Probably never photographed before,” the caption said. I peered ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
High Tension on Thalay Sagar
High Tension on Thalay Sagar Straight up the north face by Mikhail Davy, Russia translated by Maxim Rivkin May 31, 1999. It ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
Yosemite Speed, Patagonian Summits
Yosemite Speed, Patagonian Summits Exploring Chouinard’s maxim four decades on by Timothy O’Neill The imploring yell, “Go, go, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
Gyachung Kang
Gyachung Kang An alpine mentality in the Himalaya by Marko Prezelj, Planinska zveza Slovenije, Slovenia translated by Ana Percic “Have ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The Trango Towers in Review
The Trango Towers in Review by John Middendorf The impressive rock spires of Great Trango Tower and Trango (a.k....
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The Trango Pulpit
The Trango Pulpit A journey under the skin by Robert Caspersen, Norway Wet snow entered the neck of my Gore-Tex. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
Great Trango Tower's Northwest Face
Great Trango Tower’s Northwest Face Parallel worlds by Jared Ogden Our ledge, hanging cockeyed and dripping wet, was our ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The Russian Way
The Russian Way Cameraderie and tribute on the Great Trango Tower by Yuri Koshelenko, Russia translated by Igor Politiko, with ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
Amin Brakk
Amin Brakk A5 with a view by Silvia Vidal, Spain translated by Christian Santelices Pakistan, once again—its people, its ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The Ship's Prow Solo
May 6, 1999, 4:27 a.m. It has been 17 hours since the violent wind started its attack. I can’t sleep. I lie ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
Rock Peaks of the Siguniang Region
Rock Peaks of the Siguniang Region New routes, anyone? Photographs by Tamotsu Nakamura, Japanese Alpine Club “Mt. Siguniang, the highest ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
Supplemental Oxygen and Mountaineering Deaths
Supplemental Oxygen and Mountaineering Deaths O2: the extra breath of life on Everest and K2? by Xavier Eguskitza, United Kingdom ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
The Earth's Changing Glaciers
The Earth’s Changing Glaciers by Dr. Andrew Klein, Texas A&M University The retreat of the world’s glaciers ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
Commercialization and Modern Climbing
Commercialization and Modern Climbing Three views by Pavel Chabaline, Will Gadd and Steve House Editor’s Note: Climbing has been ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
Divided Interests and the Hope for American Alpinism
Divided Interests and the Hope for American Alpinism by Steve House Author’s note: Passing judgments about the worthiness of ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema New horizons by Robert B. Schoene, M.D., The University of Washington Over the last three ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Ritter, South Ridge
Mt. Ritter, South Ridge. As we climbed the Southwest Ridge of Mt. Ritter, Ben Craft and I were amazed at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Kings Canyon National Park, North Dome, My Own Private Idaho
North Dome, My Own Private Idaho. During June 21-23, Matt and Jennifer Pollard and I established a line on North ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. (An excellent overview of the new Valley speed ascents appears earlier in this journal in an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. On El Cap, Leo Houlding, assisted by José Pereyra, established the dynamic Passage to Freedom (runout 5.13...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, El Capitan, Passage to Freedom
El Capitan, Passage to Freedom. I wanted to find a way to free climb the Dawn Wall and decided to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Lower Cathedral Rock, The New North Face, Previously Unreported
Lower Cathedral Rock, The New North Face, Previously Unreported. The north face of Lower Cathedral Rock has arguably the shortest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Camp 4, Celebration
Camp 4, Celebration. This gathering was one of the finest occasions ever held in Yosemite. After several years of rumors and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, New Routes
Half Dome, New Routes. Eric Coomer, Bryan Law and I developed some new aid lines on the far right side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Porcelain Wall, Strange World
Porcelain Wall, Strange World. In August, Bryan Law and I climbed a new route, Strange World, on the Porcelain Wall. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, Peripheral Vision
Half Dome, Peripheral Vision. On July 17, Karl McConachie and I completed the first traverse of Half Dome’s northwest face (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Various Activity, Previously Unreported
Sierra Nevada, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. Although there was little coverage in the 1999 AAJ, route development and freeing of old ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,600'+, Direct Northeast Face, Consolation Prize, Previously Unreported
Peak 12,600'+, Direct Northeast Face, Consolation Prize, Previously Unreported. In August, 1998, Bob Cable and I climbed the large pyramid-shaped unnamed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Temple Crag, North Peak, The Crystal Way, Previously Unreported
Temple Crag, North Peak, The Crystal Way, Previously Unreported. The Crystal Way (IV 5.10a) provides a day-long adventure up the 1,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Temple Crag, East Face of North Peak, Mediatrix, Previously Unreported
Temple Crag, East Face of North Peak, Mediatrix, Previously Unreported. Heather Baer-Schneider and I climbed Mediatrix (IV 5.8, 2,500'), which takes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Aiguille Extra, South Face, Previously Unreported
Aiguille Extra, South Face, Previously Unreported. Peter Noebels and I climbed the South Face (IV 5.10c, 1,400') of Aiguille Extra ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Ruby Wall, Don't Take Your Love To Town, Previously Unreported
Ruby Wall, Don’t Take Your Love To Town, Previously Unreported. Don’t Take Your Love To Town (IV 5.10, 1,200') ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Dade, North Pillar, Previously Unreported
Mt. Dade, North Pillar, Previously Unreported. Paul Linaweaver, Ron McTarque and I climbed the North Pillar (IV 5.10, 1,200') of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Morrison, South Ridge of South Peak, Previously Unreported
Mt. Morrison, South Ridge of South Peak, Previously Unreported. Kirk Schultz and I climbed the South Ridge (IV 5.9+, eight roped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Muir, South Face, Previously Unreported
Mt. Muir, South Face, Previously Unreported. Charlie Byrne and I climbed the South Face (IV 5.9, 1,600') of Mt. Muir in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, Windhorse
Lone Pine Peak, Windhorse. In August, Em Holland and I established a new route on the South Face of Lone ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Third Recess Peak, Northeast Buttress, Previously Unreported
Third Recess Peak, Northeast Buttress, Previously Unreported. Third Recess Peak is the unnamed peak on the right as you hike ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Michael Minaret, West Ridge, The Crescent, Previously Unreported
Michael Minaret, West Ridge, The Crescent, Previously Unreported. After the Minaret Traverse and the South Face of Clyde, the West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Seven Gables, The Golden Thread Arête
Seven Gables, The Golden Thread Arête. The north side of Peak 12,840', the northernmost point in the Seven Gables ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, Nevada, Red Rocks, Rainbow Wall, Sauron's Eye and Emerald City
Rainbow Wall, Sauron ’s Eye and Emerald City. Brian McCray and I had eyed the most obvious feature of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity, Previously Unreported
The Desert, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. Utah 95 passes through Comb Ridge, a dramatic, deep cut in the Navajo sandstone. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity
The Desert, Various Activity. Jeff Achey and Irene Bloche made the first free ascent of the giant hoodoo Mexican Hat. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, Arches National Park, Organ Rock, Pilon's Pillar
Organ Rock, Pilon’s Pillar. On Organ Rock, Pilon’s Pillar (V A5a 5.10) was soloed in November with three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, Valley of the Gods, Various Activity
Valley of the Gods, Various Activity. In 1999, with various partners, I visited the Valley of the Gods in southeastern Utah ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Mexican Mountain Area, Lone Rock, South Face
Mexican Mountain Area, Lone Rock, South Face. We had long had our eyes on the prominent right-facing dihedral system working ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2000