American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

457 Records

Title Publication Year
William P. House, 1913-1997
WILLIAM P. HOUSE 1913 - 1997 Bill House grew up in Pittsburgh, attended Choate, and went on to Yale, where he became ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Lyman Spitzer, 1914-1997
LYMAN SPITZER 1914 - 1997 On March 31, we lost a distinguished astrophysicist and an accomplished mountaineer when Lyman Spitzer died suddenly at ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Herbert N. Hultgren, M.D., 1917-1997
HERBERT N. HULTGREN, M.D. 1917 - 1997 Herb Hultgren arguably made more important contributions to our understanding and management of mountain ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Arnold Wexler, 1918-1997
ARNOLD WEXLER 1918-1997 Arnold Wexler died in his sleep Sunday evening, November 16, of brain cancer. He was 79. Arnold lived in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Harry Clay McDade, 1924-1997
HARRY CLAY MCDADE 1924-1997 A member of the American Alpine Club since 1965, Harry distinguished himself not so much by his ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Donald D. McIntyre, 1946-1997
DONALD D. MCINTYRE 1946-1997 Those of us who were friends and family of Don McIntyre were shocked and profoundly saddened ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Allan Bard, 1952-1997
ALLAN BARD 1952-1997 Allan Bard died on July 5 from injuries sustained in a 200-foot fall while leading a climb of ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Anatoli Boukreev, 1958-1997
ANATOLI BOUKREEV 1958-1997 The last 15 months that have been left on my shoulders have given me three splendid successes, both ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Douglas Byron Hall, 1969-1997
DOUGLAS BYRON HALL 1969-1997 On January 25, the earth lost a most remarkable individual and a great creative spirit. Doug Hall ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1998
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Fifty-First Annual Report of the Safety Committees of The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada
Canada: Before moving to an overall view of the past year's Canadian accidents, there are two items of business I ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
1998
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Climbing Alone, Alberta, Waterton National Park, Expert's Choice
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Waterton National Park, Expert’s Choice On February 10, a middle-aged male was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Rockfall, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Waterfall
ROCKFALL Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Waterfall On Feb. 20, after a successful ascent of this waterfall (III, WI3), a party of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Rappel Error — Inadequate Anchor, Alberta, Bow Falls
RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE ANCHOR Alberta, Bow Falls On Feb. 23 around noon, a party of three were starting the descent of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Ice, Darkness, Inadequate Tie-In at Anchors, Alberta, Maligne Canyon
FALL ON ICE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE TIE-IN AT ANCHOR Alberta, Maligne Canyon On March 18 at 2030, a party of three climbers were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Overdue, Fatigue, Inadequate Equipment, Darkness, Alberta, Murchison Falls
OVERDUE, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, DARKNESS Alberta, Murchison Falls Three ice climbers set out to climb Murchison Falls (180m, V, WI4) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities, Off Route, Alberta, Chinaman's Peak
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, OFF ROUTE Alberta, Chinaman’s Peak On June 28, Allan J. (30) was leading pitch ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Rock, No Helmet, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities, Inexperience, Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Barrier Bluffs
FALL ON ROCK, NO HELMET, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Barrier Bluffs Late in the afternoon of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Rock — Hand Hold Came Off, Off Route, Alberta, Castle Mountain, Goat Plateau Approach
FALL ON ROCK—HAND HOLD CAME OFF, OFF ROUTE Alberta, Castle Mountain, Goat Plateau Approach On July 15, a party of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, Faulty Use of Crampons, Alberta, Mount Andromeda
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Alberta, Mount Andromeda Two climbers had ascended Mount Andromeda and were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Stranded, Difficult Terrain, Insufficient Research, Alberta, Clemenceau to Chaba River Trek
STRANDED, DIFFICULT TERRAIN, INSUFFICIENT RESEARCH Alberta, Clemenceau to Chaba River Trek An experienced party of eleven climbers flew in to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Rock – Rock Dislodged, Climbing Unroped, Alberta, Mount Neptuak
FALL ON ROCK—ROCK DISLODGED, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Mount Neptuak On August 10, a party of two were ascending the normal ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Stranded Due to Shoulder Dislocation, Alberta, Mount Louis
STRANDED DUE TO SHOULDER DISLOCATION Alberta, Mount Louis On August 10, G.G. and G.B. were beginning the exit pitches ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Alberta, Mount Temple, Greenwood/Locke Route
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Mount Temple, Greenwood/Locke Route On August 20, a party of two attempted the Greenwood/...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate Protection, Belay Failure, Alberta, Chinaman's Peak
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BELAY FAILURE Alberta, Chinaman’s Peak On August 22, B.P. (20) and M.K. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Lost, Climbing Alone, Hypothermia, Weather, Inadequate Equipment, Alberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca
LOST, CLIMBING ALONE, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca On Sept. 26, a lone climber took out a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Rappel Error — Inadequate Use of Equipment, Alberta, Smith-Dorrien Valley, Ranger Creek
RAPPEL ERROR—INCORRECT USE OF EQUIPMENT Alberta, Smith-Dorrien Valley, Ranger Creek At 1630 on November 9, authorities at Peter Lougheed Provincial Park ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Slip on Ice, Faulty Use of Crampons, Climbing Unroped, Alberta, Smith-Dorrien Valley, French Creek
SLIP ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Smith-Dorrien Valley, French Creek On November 20, L.S. (24) and a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Self-Belay Failure, Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Kidd Falls
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, SELF-BELAY FAILURE Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Kidd Falls On November 23, S.M. (21) and a partner set ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Mount Rundle, The Professor Falls
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Mount Rundle, The Professor Falls On November 23, R.R. was leading the second pitch ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Rappel Error — Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Murchison, Murchison Falls
RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Murchison, Murchison Falls On November 23, a party of two were beginning the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Failure to Follow Instructions, British Columbia, Mount Revelstoke National Park, Mount Macbeth
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS British Columbia, Mount Revelstoke National Park, Mount Macbeth On June 29, a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Avalanche, Fall Into Crevasse, Poor Position, Weather, Inadequate Preparation, British Columbia, Mount Robson
AVALANCHE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, INADEQUATE PREPARATION British Columbia, Mount Robson A party of three (Party One) and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall Into River, British Columbia, Jasper National Park, North Boundary Trail Hike
FALL INTO RIVER British Columbia, Jasper National Park, North Boundary Trail Hike D.H. and S.K. (from Germany) were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall Into Moat, Falling Rock, Weather, British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo Spire
FALL INTO MOAT, FALLING ROCK, WEATHER British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo Spire In August, S.A. and B....
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Falling Rock, Weather, British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo — Snowpatch Col
FALLING ROCK, WEATHER British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo—Snowpatch Col A party of three, N.G., J.G., ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Falling Rock — Pulling Rappel Rope Down, Poor Position, British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spire
FALLING ROCK—PULLING RAPPEL ROPE DOWN, POOR POSITION British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spire In August, a party ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Lightning, British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spire
LIGHTNING British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spire A.B. and B.A. were descending the Kraus-McCarthy rappel route ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Rock, Rope Parted – Friction Device, Northwest Territories, Baffin Island, Mount Thor
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE PARTED—FRICTION DEVICE Northwest Territories, Baffin Island, Mount Thor In mid-July A.G. (30) began a solo ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall Into Moat, Climbing Unroped, Poor Position, Inexperience, Quebec, Saint Raymond de Portneuf, Delaney Falls
FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCE Québec, Saint Raymond de Portneuf, Delaney Falls On January 13, E.F. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall On Rock, Inadequate Protection, Quebec, Mount Saint Hilaire, Dame Noire Route
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Québec, Mount Saint Hilaire, Dame Noire Route On May 31, M.L. (33), with six years ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Rappel Error — Rope Tangled, Stranded, Inexperience, Darkness, Inadequate Equipment — No Head Lamp, Alabama, Pelham
RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE TANGLED, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO HEAD LAMP Alabama, Pelham On March 2, Chad Lovelady (23) and Eric ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
HACE, Inadequate Communication — Client to Guide, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HACE, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION—CLIENT TO GUIDE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress An Alaska Denali Guiding Party led by Blaine Smith ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
AMS — No Incident, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
AMS—NO INCIDENT Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Kim Jae Suk and Park Jae Il (24) of the Korean Palgong Kyung ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Off Route, Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, No Belay/Protection, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
OFF ROUTE, FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, NO BELAY/ PROTECTION Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress At 0800 on May 29, the “...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Frostbite, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FROSTBITE, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 31, a guided group of five clients led by Blaine Smith and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Frostbite, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Muldrow Glacier
FROSTBITE, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinley, Muldrow Glacier On June 4, at 1130, Wendt Andreas (34) of the High Dreams expedition checked in at ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Avalanche, Warm Weather, Alaska, Mount Hunter, Moonflower Buttress
AVALANCHE, WARM WEATHER Alaska, Mount Hunter, Moonflower Buttress On June 6, at 1700, Allan Kearney and Steve Mascioli (38) were climbing during a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
HACE, Party Separated, Failure to Turn Back, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HACE, PARTY SEPARATED, FAILURE TO TURN BACK Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Throughout the day on June 17, several expeditions passed ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Protection, Poor Position, Inexperience, Alaska, Ptarmigan Peak, Chugach State Park
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Ptarmigan Peak, Chugach State Park On June 29, two ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998
Fall on Snow, Pneumothorax, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Karsten's Ridge
FALL ON SNOW, PNEUMOTHORAX Alaska, Mount McKinley, Karstens’ Ridge Jonathan Giesen’s (25) accident happened July 5 at 2200. We summitted the previous ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1998