American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

558 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, California, Gorge of Despair, Silver Turret, Desperadoes
Gorge Of Despair, Silver Turret, Desperadoes. I started Desperadoes (III 5.12a) with Guy Keesee in 1993. We returned for another attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, California, Lone Pine Peak, South Face, Land of Little Rain
Lone Pine Peak, South Face, Land of Little Rain. As you sit by the Stone House, an old building at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, California, Yosemite, The Changing Face of Yosemite
The Changing Face of Yosemite. Yosemite National Park was the site of two major natural disasters in the year. A ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, California, El Capitan, The Shield Rescue and Judicial Precedent
El Capitan, The Shield, Rescue and Judicial Precedent. On May 16, Austrians Christian Zenz and Christian Wassertheurer requested a rescue from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, California, Activity in Yosemite Valley
Activity in Yosemite Valley. On the free climbing scene, this year’s big news was the third free ascent, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley Speed (as of November, 1996)
Yosemite Valley Speed (as of November, 1996) El Capitan Mr Midwest (D. Bengston/S. Gerberding/Al Swanson. April, 1996): 21:00* West Face (H. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, California, West Quarter Dome, Quarter Pounder
West Quarter Dome, Quarter Pounder. Urmas Franosch and I had originally intended to free climb the North Face route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, California, Glacier Point, Galactic Hitchhiker
Glacier Point, Galactic Hitchhiker. On October 14, Lou Renner of Santa Cruz, California, and I (from San Francisco), completed a first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, California, Ribbon Falls Amphitheater, Hole in the Head
Ribbon Falls Amphitheater, Hole in the Head. Rick Carlton Studley III and I climbed a 1,000-foot variation to the route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon, Christopher's Tower and Lucifer's Tooth
Oak Creek Canyon, Christopher’s Tower and Lucifer’s Tooth. On January 13, Dan Stih and I climbed a freestanding tower ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon, Pic de Coubertin
Oak Creek Canyon, Pic de Coubertin. In celebration of the Olympic Centennial, the UIAA (which was in the area for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
Toothrock, East Buttress
On December 29-January 1, Paul Gagner and I finished a 1,500-foot east buttress route (11 pitches, 5.10 A2) started by Glenn Rink et ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Southwest Desert Soft Rock Climbing
Southwest Desert Soft Rock Climbing. Among the main attractions of the desert around Moab are the rich reds and blacks ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Green River Area
Green River Area. In the isolated Green River regions west of Moab, James Garrett and Mike Pennings ventured out on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Gemini Bridges Trail
Gemini Bridges Trail. Eight miles north of Moab and up the popular four-wheel drive/mountain bike Gemini Bridges Trail, Matt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Long Canyon
Long Canyon. Another impressive tower climb of the past year was the free ascent by Steph Davis of Jim Olsen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Day Canyon
Day Canyon. In Day Canyon, also accessed from the Potash Road, Keith Reynolds and Alan Stephenson climbed Prohibition Crack (three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, State Highway 313
State Highway 313. Sunset Tower up the road from Dead Horse Point and the Island-in-the-Sky district of Canyonland National Park (nine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Courthouse Pasture
Courthouse Pasture. Jason Keith and Hollis McCord climbed to the summit of the Merrimac Butte by a new route up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Island-in-the-Sky
Island-in-the-Sky. Dave Madera, Bob Novellino, Jorma Hayes and Bret Sutteer climbed a virgin butte approximately one mile north of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell
San Rafael Swell. Mike Friedrichs and Anne Yeagle put up an eight-bolt sport climb, Anti-Swell (5.10b), and Friedrichs and Todd ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, River Road (Scenic Byway 128)
River Road (Scenic Byway 128). Dave Glouderman rope soloed the 5.9 tower high above the River Road at Mile Post 6 in December.
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Navajolands
Navajolands. Spinnaker Tower was climbed free at 5.11+ by Stevie Haston and Laurence Guault. Lost Coyote Tower, a 250-foot spire located ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Crag Climbing
Crag Climbing. Crag climbing began in the desert at Indian Creek in the 1970s, when the majority of routes established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Aeolian Tower, Howling Winge
Aeolian Tower, Howling Winge. In the Courthouse Pasture area, north of Moab, in 1995, Dave Goldstein and I made a first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Desert Shield, First Hammerless Ascent
Desert Shield, First Hammerless Ascent. The nine-pitch Desert Shield saw its first clean ascent by Mark Bennett and Kevin Lawlor. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mount Kinesava, West Face, First One-Day Ascent
Mount Kinesava, West Face, First One-Day Ascent. On March 15, Drew Spaulding, Jon Allen and I climbed the King’s Corner ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Peak 6,365, The Shadow Line, Attempt
Peak 6,365, The Shadow Line, Attempt. With Dave Goldstein, in February and March, I climbed The Shadow Line (nine pitches, 5.11 A3+) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mountain of the Sun, Eye Shadow
Mountain of the Sun, Eye Shadow. In mid-October, Warren Hollinger and I climbed a major new wall route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Angelino Wall, Drop Zone
Angelino Wall, Drop Zone. From November 27-December 1, 1996, Chris McNamara and I climbed Drop Zone (11 pitches, 5.8 A4-) on the Angelino ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Cable Mountain, Hammer and Sickle
Cable Mountain, Hammer and Sickle. In September, Ron Ramonde and I did the first ascent of Cable Mountain in Zion. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Monument Basin, Various Ascents
Monument Basin, Various Ascents. With various partners, I was involved in the following ascents. Tutti-Frutti (two pitches, 5.10 C2), on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, Echo Tower, Phantom Spirit
Fisher Towers, Echo Tower, Phantom Spirit. On September 2-3, Dave Goldstein and I made a hammerless ascent of Phantom Spirit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Bottleneck Peak, Fumbling Toward Ecstasy
San Rafael Swell, Bottleneck Peak, Fumbling Toward Ecstasy. With Laura Zaruba, on October 12, I climbed Fumbling Toward Ecstasy (four pitches, 5.10) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Utah, Texas Canyon, Lone Star
Texas Canyon, Lone Star. On November 10, Jon Butler, Jesse Harvey and I made the first ascent of Lone Star, a 460...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Colorado, North Chasm View Wall, The Free Nose, First One-Day Ascent
North Chasm View Wall, The Free Nose, First One-Day Ascent. In May, Kennan Harvey and I did the second ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Colorado, Mount Evans, Various Ascents
Mount Evans, Various Ascents. On August 8, Greg Crouch and I climbed Captain Calamari (six pitches, 5.9+ R A1), which lies to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Colorado, Longs Peak, The Diamond, First One-Day Winter Ascent
Longs Peak, The Diamond, First One-Day Winter Ascent. On January 15, Craig Luebben and I climbed the Diamond on Longs Peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Colorado, Longs Peak, The Diamond
Longs Peak, The Diamond. On June 2, Cameron Tague and I climbed Jack of Diamonds on Longs Peak’s Diamond in 12 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Colorado, RMNP, Various Ascents
RMNP, Various Ascents. Jack Roberts and an Icelander known as “Helgi” climbed Field’s Chimney (WI4 M6). The route, which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Colorado, Powell Peak Cirque, Early Retirement and The Corporate Ladder
Powell Peak Cirque, Early Retirement, and The Corporate Ladder In search of largely unexplored rock faces in RMNP, Bob Monet ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Colorado, Peak C, North Face
Peak C, North Face. The north face of Peak C in the Gore Range has remained, as far as we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Colorado, Various Ice Ascents
Colorado, Various Ice Ascents. Two new hard mixed water ice climbs were established in Vail. Alex Lowe established Aberrant Behavior (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, The Fifth Column, Yodel This
The Fifth Column, Yodel This. In the summer of 1995, I noticed a beautiful wall just over the Garnet Canyon trail. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Wyoming, The Grand Teton, Hossack-McGowan Couloir, First One-Day Winter Ascent and First Ski Descent
The Grand Teton, Hossack-MacGowen Couloir, First One-Day Winter Ascent and First Ski Descent. On February 16, Hans Johnstone and I started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton, Otterbody Snowfield, First Ski Descent
Grand Teton, Otterbody Snowfield, First Ski Descent. The successful descent of the Hossack-MacGowen on the north face of the Grand ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, The Cathedral Group, Various Ascents
The Cathedral Group, Various Ascents. The north face of the Middle Teton was the scene of some new route activity ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, Wyoming, Big Horn Mountains, The Merlin, Superfortress
The Merlin, Superfortress. In August, Mike Lilygren, Steve Bechtel, and Bobby Model returned to the Big Horn Mountains to finish ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, New York, Adirondack Mountains, Various Ice Ascents
Adirondack Mountains, Various Ice Ascents. Two hard mixed climbs were established at Poke- O-Moonshine in the Adirondack Mountains. Jeff Lowe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997
North America, United States, North Carolina, Whitesides, Three Routes in a Day
Whitesides, Three Routes in a Day. On the 800-foot cliffband Whitesides, Jim Corbett and David Young climbed three routes on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1997