American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

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497 Records

Title Publication Year
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Forty-Ninth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada
This is the forty-ninth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, published by the AAC, and the eighteenth that has ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
1996
Inadequate Protection—Ice Tool Came Out, Fatigue, Exceeding Abilities, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Ghost River, "This House of Sky" Falls
INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ICE TOOL CAME OUT, FATIGUE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Ghost River, “This House of Sky” Falls About 1600 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Avalanche, Exceeding Abilities, Weather, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain, "Urs Hole" Falls
AVALANCHE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain, “Urs Hole” Falls Sometime on February 24, two ice climbers (both 20) were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Falls on Ice, Inadequate Belay Position, Protection Pulled Out, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Louise Falls
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY POSITION, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Louise Falls A party of two ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cougar Canyon
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cougar Canyon About 1500 on May 13, Kananaskis E.M.S. received a call ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Overdue, Weather Poor Navigation, Climbing Alone, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Columbia Ice Field
OVERDUE, WEATHER POOR NAVIGATION, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Columbia Ice Field On July 22, D. E.(52) started up the Athabasca ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Handhold Failure, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Kid Goat Buttress, "Keelhaul Wall"
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, HANDHOLD FAILURE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Kid Goat Buttress, “Keelhaul Wall” On July 24, Laura and Marty ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Ice, Placed No Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Aberdeen
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Aberdeen About 1700 on August 27, a party of four were descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Indefatigable
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Indefatigable On September 5, Kananaskis Country rangers were informed that someone had fallen ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Failure—Error in Anchoring, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle 
RAPPEL FAILURE—ERROR IN ANCHORING, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle On September 10, David and Edward, (both 18), from England, and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Unroped, No Hard Hat, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tonquin Valley, Surprise Point
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, NO HARD HAT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tonquin Valley, Surprise Point Two Japanese members of an Indian ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Slip on Snow, No Hard Hat, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Haddo
SLIP ON SNOW, NO HARD HAT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Haddo After a successful ascent of Mt. Haddo (3071 meters) on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Overdue, Difficulty Following Route, Poor Conditions—Snow, Inexperience, Frostbite, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith Cavell
OVERDUE, DIFFICULTY FOLLOWING ROUTE, POOR CONDITIONS—SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, FROSTRITE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith Cavell On September 30, G. M. (30) and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Failure—Inadequate Anchor Setup, Inadequate Equipment, Alberta, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake Crag
RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR SETUP, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Lake Louise, Rack of the Lake Crag On October 6, a climber was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Falling Ice, Poor Position, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Weeping Wall
FALLING ICE, POOR POSITION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Weeping Wall On December 29, two ice climbers were on the second pitch of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall into Bergschrund, Unroped, Poor Visibility, British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier, Howser Spires
FALL INTO BERGSCHRUND, UNROPED, POOR VISIBILITY British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier, Howser Spires On September 3, R. D. and K. S. completed ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Handhold Came Off, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Assiniboine
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, HANDHOLD CAME OFF British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Assiniboine On September 21, two climbers were beginning the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rappel—No Belay, Inexperience, Nova Scotia, Eagle's Nest
FALL ON RAPPEL—NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCE Nova Scotia, Eagle’s Nest On April 13, Chris and Ray went out to this ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Nova Scotia, Eagle's Nest, "No Man's Land"
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Nova Scotia, Eagle’s Nest, “No Man’s Land” September 30 was a great climbing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Piton Pulled Out
On June 18, Bruce Stover (19), Sherri May (18), John Rothwell (23), Kip Brennan (15), and I (Shawn Shea, 30) arrived at Little Blue Mountain about 1:00 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error—Only Clipped into One Rope, No Belay, Ontario, Milton, Kelso Conservation Area, "Jolly Rodger" Route
RAPPEL ERROR—ONLY CLIPPED INTO ONE ROPE, NO RELAY, NO HARD HAT Ontario, Milton, Kelso Conservation Area, “Jolly Rodger” Route ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Nova Scotia, Eagle's Nest, "No Man's Land"
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT—LEADER AND RELAYER, DEHYDRATION/FATIGUE Ontario, Ron Echo Provincial Park, “Ottawa” Route On September 4, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Avalanche, Lost Equipment, Stranded, Yukon, St. Elias Mountains, Mount Logan
AVALANCHE, LOST EQUIPMENT, STRANDED Yukon, St. Elias Mountains, Mount Logan On July 28, a party of four climbers were involved in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Avalanche, Alaska, Glacier Bay National Park, Mount Orville
AVALANCHE Alaska, Glacier Bay National Park, Mount Orville Three climbers found dead April 25, on Mount Orville (10,495 feet) have been identified ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall into Crevasse while Ski Mountaineering, Alaska, Mount Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Mount Wrangell
FALL INTO CREVASSE WHILE SKI MOUNTAINEERING Alaska, Mount Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Mount Wrangell A party of five skiers attempting ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Snow/Ice, Place No Protection, Inadequate Equipment, Alaska, Mt. McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On April 21, 1995, the “Angove-McKinley Expedition” departed ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Weather, Probably Hypothermia, Combined with Snow Bridge Collapse, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
WEATHER, PROBABLY HYPOTHERMIA, combined with SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 26, the “Free at Last” expedition ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Atrial Fibrillation, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
ATRIAL FIBRILLATION Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On May 26, at 2100, old Swiss climber Dr. Paul Robadey (55) was flown from the 14,200 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Dehydration, Heat Exhaustion, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
DEHYDRATION, HEAT EXHAUSTION Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On June 1, around 2330, Robert Paige (28) called 7,200 foot base camp, saying he was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Acute Abdomen, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
ACUTE ABDOMEN Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On June 2, at 2100, Tom Bohanon of the “Three Guys on Denali” expedition came ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Snow, Exposure, Probably AMS, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW, EXPOSURE, PROBABLY AMS Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On June 9, a Spanish climber fell 4,000 feet to his ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Snow—Ski Mountaineering, AMS, Weather—Extreme Winds, Alaska, Mount Foraker, Sultana Ridge
FALL ON SNOW—SKI MOUNTAINEERING, AMS, WEATHER—EXTREME WINDS Alaska, Mount Foraker, Sultana Ridge On June 10, at 2230 Julie Faure (33), Jim ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Exposure, Dehydration, Inadequate Equipment (Rope, Altimeter, Compass, Clothing), Party Separated, Exceeding Abilities, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
EXPOSURE, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT (Rope, Altimeter, Compass, Clothing), PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress A group of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Avalanche, Alaska, Mount McKinley, South Buttress
AVALANCHE Alaska, Mount McKinley, South Buttress The “South Buttress 95” expedition members included leader Tom Fitzsimmons (45), Jim Fitzsimmons (38), Richard Rodgers (40), and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall into Crevasse—Snow Bridge Collapse, Poor Position, Inadequate Protection—No Belay or Fixed Rope, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL INTO CREVASSE—SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—NO BELAY OR FIXED ROPE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error—Failed to Thread Both Ropes Through Friction Device, No Belay, Arizona, Cochise Stronghold
RAPPEL ERROR—FAILED TO THREAD ROTH ROPES THROUGH FRICTION DEVICE, NO RELAY Arizona, Cochise Stronghold On October 28, John Payne, Jr., ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Darkness—Late Start, Dehydration, Hypothermia (Carried No Water), Inadequate Clothing, Creating a Hazardous Condition, California, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress, Nutcracker
DARKNESS—LATE START, DEHYDRATION, HYPOTHERMIA (CARRIED NO WATER), INADEQUATE CLOTHING, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITION California, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Weather, Hypothermia, Inadequate Equipment, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, The Nose
WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, The Nose On April 9, two parties of climbers started up the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Error—Anchor Sling Came Off, Inadequate Protection, Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel Rock
RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR SLING CAME OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel Rock. On April 17, Charles Comstock (34) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Stranded, Misperception—Route Research, Inadequate Equipment, Creating a Hazardous Condition
STRANDED, MISPERCEPTION—ROUTE RESEARCH, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITION California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan Zodiac On Sunday, June 10, Dan ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Haste—Trying to Stick to a Schedule, California, Yosemite Valley, North Dome Gulley
FALL ON ROCK, HASTE—TRYING TO STICK TO A SCHEDULE California, Yosemite Valley, North Dome Gulley On July 6, Dave Bedell (34) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, California, Yosemite Valley, Nutcracker
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Yosemite Valley, Nutcracker On July 1, Paul Bennett (41) and Randy Kanta were climbing the Nutcracker, 5.8, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Rappel Failure—Inadequate Anchor Equipment, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan
RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan About 1800 on July 31, Ik Tae Choi (23) died ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Stranded, Darkness—Late Start, Off Route, Inadequate Clothing, Creating a Hazardous Condition, California, Yosemite Valley, Fairview Dome
STRANDED, DARKNESS—LATE START, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITION California, Yosemite Valley, Fairview Dome On August 9, about 1100, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan On August 16, about noon, Brian Biega (23) was leading the 6...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Protection Pulled, Fall on Rock, Indadequate Protection, No Hard Hat
PROTECTION PULLED, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan While Biega was being rescued (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Stranded—Ropes Jammed, Haste—To Try to Catch Thieves, Inadequate Equipment—No Knife, California, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral Rock
STRANDED—ROPES JAMMED, HASTE—TO TRY TO CATCH THIEVES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO KNIFE California, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral Rock On ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Belay, California, Temple Crag
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY California, Temple Crag On October 4, Gary Niblock, Mike Nichols (both 48) and Mark Harris (42) were climbing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Equipment Failure—Wired Nut Broke, Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan
EQUIPMENT FAILURE—WIRED NUT BROKE, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan On October 6, about 1900, Baek Man (27) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996
Slide/Fall on Ice, Inexperience, Improper Use of Crampons, Inadequate Protection—Unclipped, Party Separated, California, Eastern Sierras, Lamarck Col
SLIDE/FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCE, IMPROPER USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—UNCLIPPED, PARTY SEPARATED California, Eastern Sierras, Lamarck Col On ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1996