American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

520 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Astillado, 1993
Cerro Astillado, 1993. In February, 1993, Brazilian Macoto and Argentine Jorge Tarditti made the second ascent of Astillado (2005 meters, 6578 feet). The first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, San Valentín and Traverse of the Northern Patagonian Icecap, 1995
San Valentín and traverse of the Northern Patagonian Icecap, 1995. From January 4 to 29, Chileans Claudio Seebach and Sven Bruchfeld traversed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, El Mocho, Torre de la Media Luna, Saint Exuéry, Aguja Rafael, Poincenot, 1993-94
El Mocho, Torre de la Media Luna, Saint Exupéry, Aguja Rafael, Poincenot, 1993-94. From December 28 to 31, 1993, Adriano Cavallaro and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre Attempt from the South
Cerro Torre Attempt from the South. Englishman Andy Parkin and Frenchman François Marsigny hoped to climb Cerro Torre by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, South Face
Cerro Torre, South Face. Marko Lukic, Miha Prapotnik and I climbed an extremely difficult new route on the south face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Cerro Torre, Cleaning of Fixed Rope
Cerro Torre, Cleaning of Fixed Rope. Discovering that over 1000 meters of fixed rope had been left during the filming of ...
AAJ
Notes
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Climbing Season in the Fitz Roy-Cerro Torre Area, 1994-95
Climbing Season in the Fitz Roy-Cerro Tone Area, 1994-95. [The time between the Patagonian season and our going to press ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, West Face Attempt, "Crystals in the Wind"
Cerro Torre, West Face Attempt, “Crystals in the Wind. ” On October 23, 1994, despite doubtful weather, Elio Orlandi, Odoardo Ravizza and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, West-East Traverse
Cerro Torre, West-East Traverse. Frenchmen David Autheman, Fred Valet and Patrick Pessi became the first climbers to complete the traverse ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, West Face and Northeast Buttress, 1993
Aguja Guillaumet, West Face and Northeast Buttress, 1993. My father Erich Gatt and I arrived in Patagonia in mid February, 1993 and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Guillaumet
Guillaumet. Shawn Tierney and I climbed the Fonrouge route on the northwest buttress of Guillaumet on January 1 and 2, 1994. We rate ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, All-Woman Ascent
Aguja Guillaumet, All-Woman Ascent. In 1994, Argentines Marcela Antonucci and Patricia Malatesta made the first all-woman ascent of the Argentine route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Poincenot, East Buttress, "Whisky-Time"
Poincenot, East Buttress, “Whisky-Time.’’ Working from a biovouac on the Paso Superior, with many interruptions because of the weather, we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Saint Exupéry, South Face, "Le Petit Prince"
Aguja Saint Exupéry, South Face, “Le Petit Prince.” Gaël Bouquet- Deschaux, Emmanuel Pellissier, Benoît Robert, Jérô...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95
Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95. I climbed solo two new routes on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Grande, East Ridge
Cerro Grande, East Ridge. On February 12, 1994, Spaniards Iñaki Ruiz and Pedro Udaondo climbed the east ridge of Cerro Grande. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cristal, Cacique and Mascarello, Upsala Glacier
Cristal, Cacique and Mascarello, Upsala Glacier. In early 1995, Rolando Garibotti, Ramón Calvo and Diego Luro had hoped to cross ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993
Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993. On February 5, 1985, I made the first ascent of Cerro Zapata (1530 meters, 5020 feet), west of Lago ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Climbing Season in the Paine Group, 1994-95
Climbing Season in the Paine Group, 1994-95. [Because the American Alpine Journal goes to press before the complete record for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Escudo, East Face, Paine Group
Escudo, East Face, Paine Group. In early December, 1994, Brad Jarrett, Christian Santelices and I arrived at the Japanese Camp, high ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Escudo East Face Attempt, Paine Group
Escudo East Face Attempt, Paine Group. A German Alpine Club (DAV) expedition of eight men and two women led by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Exploring Tierra del Fuego
On December 2, the yacht Pelagic sailed out of Punta Arenas due south down the Straits of Magellan toward the western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Antarctica, Mount Vaughan, Climbed at 89 Years, Queen Maud Mountains
Mount Vaughan, Climbed at 89 Years, Queen Maud Mountains. On December 16, 1994, our summit party including my wife Carolyn Muegge- Vaughan, Gordon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Antarctica, More Information on the Ascent of Mount Vaughan
More Information on the Ascent of Mount Vaughan. In addition to the people named above, the party was also composed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Antarctica, Jøkulkyrkia, Queen Maud Land
Jøkulkyrkia, Queen Maud Land. Under the leadership of Norwegian Ivar Tollefsen, Norwegians made a number of notable ascents. On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Antarctica, Mount Epperly
Mount Epperly. As we go to press, we have received a report that Mount Epperly has been climbed by Swiss ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Antarctica, Traverse to the South Pole
Traverse to the South Pole. Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz has just returned from his traverse to the South ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Antarctica, Peaks on Duchaylard and Anvers Islands
Peaks on Duchaylard and Anvers Islands. Our team sailed on January 10, 1994 on the 55-foot sailing vessel Pelagic, owned and captained ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Antarctica, Monte Parry
Monte Parry. Chileans Aldo Boitano, Guillermo Mascaró, Maurico Rojas, Renzo Uccelli and José Vélez were taken by the navy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Europe, Norway, Arch Wall, Trollveggen, Winter Ascent
Arch Wall, Trollveggen, Winter Ascent. Janusz Golab, Stanislaw Piecuch and I made the first winter ascent of the Arch Wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, India—Arunachal Pradesh, Gorichen II and Gorichen East
Gorichen II and Gorichen East. Our expedition hoped to climb Kangto (7090 meters, 23,262 feet) in order to celebrate the 40th anniversary ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, India—Sikkim, Siniolchu
Siniolchu. Siniolchu (6887 meters, 22,595 feet) is probably the most beautiful peak in Sikkim. It was first climbed by Germans in 1936 and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, India—Sikkim, Siniolchu Attempt
Siniolchu Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Sen Hiraizumi, Atsushi Koyama, Ryosuke Wakusawa and I as leader. On May 8, we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, India—Sikkim, Kabru South
Kabru South. An Indian Army expedition led by Colonel H.S. Chaukan, former head of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, India—Sikkim, Gemmigela I (Twin I) Ascent and Tragedy
Gemmigela I (Twin I) Ascent and Tragedy. A Japanese expedition of eight was led by Kenshiro Otaki. On October 29, Shigeru ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Attempt
Kangchenjunga Attempt. An expedition of 12 South Koreans led by Yoo Jae-Il attempted the southwest face of Kangchenjunga but only got ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy
Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of 6 Belorussians, 4 Russians and two Bulgarians was led by Belorussian Sergei Novikov. Russia’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt. Pierre Rizzardo, leader, Robin Molinatti, Xavier Cret and I attempted a climb on the north side of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Makalu, Kangchungtse and Chomo Lönzo
Makalu, Kangchungtse and Chomo Lönzo. The twelve climbers of our Condor Adventures expedition established Base Camp at 5300 meters on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Baruntse Pre-Monsoon Ascent and Attempt
Baruntse Pre-Monsoon Ascent and Attempt. An expedition of 4 Swiss climbed Baruntse by the normal southeast ridge from the west. On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Baruntse in the Post-Monsoon
Baruntse in the Post-Monsoon. Baruntse (7129 meters, 23,389 feet) continues to be one of the most popular peaks in Nepal. In the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse
Lhotse. An international expedition was highly successful on the west face of Lhotse. Leader Oskar Kihlborg and Mikael Reuterswärd ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse
Lhotse. After guiding on Everest, Rob Hall and I made a three-day ascent of Lhotse via the normal west-face route. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Attempt of Lhotse-Lhotse Shar Traverse
Attempt of Lhotse-Lhotse Shar Traverse. Jean Troillet and I established ourselves in Everest Base Camp on August 26. It was not ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse in the Post-Monsoon
Lhotse in the Post-Monsoon. All ascents of Lhotse in the autumn were by the normal west-face route from the Western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse
Lhotse. Our international group of six was led by Pole Ryszard Pawlowksi. We established Base Camp on September 5. From September 7 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Everest in the Pre-Monsoon
Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. Thirty-seven men (no women) climbed Everest this spring from Nepal in a rather straightforward fashion. No ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
Asia, Nepal, Everest Ascent and Clean-up
Everest Ascent and Clean-up. In the spring of 1994, The Sagarmatha Environmental Expedition embarked on a unique mission on the world’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995
The Mountaineers
Glacial Movement in the Khumbu Icefall. There appears earlier in this Journal an article written by Jack Starmer on the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
1995
Asia, Nepal, Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season
Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season. On the standard South Col route on Everest, climbers are somewhat better protected from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1995