American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

536 Records

Title Publication Year
Yosemite Rock Climber Survey
Yosemite Rock Climber Survey Robin Ingraham, Jr. ONE HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE ground, a climber dangles effortlessly on his rope. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1991
Why Access Fund Should "Get Real" on Climbing Regulation
Why Access Fund* Should “Get Real” on Climbing Regulation Thomas Higgins “…a crucial premise of the Access Committee (is): that ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1990
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1990. Heavy winter snows, volcanic ash deposits, near record numbers of climbers, few accidents ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park Survey
Denali National Park Survey. An interesting study was made at Denali National Park by Alan Ewert and Robert Seibert of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley, Descent from Windy Corner 1989
McKinley, Descent from Windy Corner 1989. In June, 1989, Mugs Stump, Paul Fitzgerald and I descended the ridge that starts at Windy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley, New Routes
McKinley, New Routes. Our original intention was to climb the Cassin Ridge, but that was overrun with climbers and we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley, Traverse of Southwest Face
McKinley, Traverse of Southwest Face. On May 15, after reaching the summit of Denali via the Cassin Ridge, Bill Pierson, Antoly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Direct West Buttress Routes
Mount McKinley, Direct West Buttress routes. In the photograph of the West Buttress, routes shown were first climbed by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge; Hunter South Peak, Southwest Ridge
Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge; Hunter South Peak, Southwest Ridge. Jim Graham and I made an acclimatization climb of the southwest ridge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker, Pink Panther Route
Foraker, Pink Panther Route. Dave Harries and Chris Smith repeated the difficult Pink Panther route on Mount Foraker during the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Wake, Northeast Buttress, Ruth Gorge
Mount Wake, Northeast Buttress, Ruth Gorge. Between May 11 and 15, Bruce Kay and I climbed a new route on Mount Wake. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, P 7500+, Ruth Gorge
P 7500 +, Ruth Gorge. On July 14, Michael Rutter and I completed a first ascent on beautiful granite on P 7500+ (“Werewolf"). The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks on the Eastern Side of the Ruth Gorge
Peaks on the Eastern Side of the Ruth Gorge. After four weeks in the Yosemite, Helmut Neswadba and I felt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Dan Beard, West-Face Couloir
Dan Beard, West-Face Couloir. In May, two women living in Alaska, Carol Snetsinger and Dori McDannold, climbed Dan Beard (3127 meters, 10,260 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, The Throne, P 6500 and North Troll, Little Switzerland
The Throne, P 6500 and North Troll, Little Switzerland. The Pika Glacier is an arm of the Kahiltna Glacier some 15 miles ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Climbs in Wrangell-St. Elias and Glacier Bay National Parks and Preserves
Climbs in Wrangell-St. Elias and Glacier Bay National Parks and Preserves. A number of expeditions reached the mountains in these ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, P 7629, P 7819 and P 8567, Bagley Icefield, Chugach Mountains
P7629, P 7819 and P 8567, Bagley Icefield, Chugach Mountains. On May 30, Sean LaRiche, Chuck Ellington, Craig Truitt and I as leader ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, P 5036, P 5716, P 6781, P 7023 and P 7709, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains
P 5036, P 5716, P 6781, P 7023 and P 7709, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. In May, a joint St. Elias Alpine Guides and American ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, P8690 and P 9840, St. Elias Mountains
P 8690 and P 9840, St. Elias Mountains. On June 21, I led Susan Bolton and Bob Bolin to near the tongue of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks near McCarthy
Peaks near McCarthy. The British Schools Exploring Society’s overwintering expedition ran from October 1989 to July 1990 with three groups, each ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Climbs in the Franklin Mountains
Climbs in the Franklin Mountains. During the first week of August, Bill Dougherty and I made a traverse and four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks near Petersburg, Coast Mountains
Peaks near Petersburg, Coast Mountains. In early July Charlie Crocker and I made what we believe are the first ascents ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Tower Mountain, Southwest Rib, 1989
Tower Mountain, Southwest Rib, 1989. From afar, this route appears both south-facing and defined as a ridge. Close inspection revealed it ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Forbidden Peak, The Forgotten Spurs, 1989
Forbidden Peak, The Forgotten Spurs, 1989. West of the northwest face of Forbidden Peak, on the divide leading to Mount Torment, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Kimtah Peak, East Face, 1989
Kimtah Peak, East Face, 1989. On April 25, 1989, my brother Carl and I climbed the east face of Kimtah Peak. Under early-season ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Lichtenberg Mountain, Winter Ascent
Lichtenberg Mountain, Winter Ascent. Ken Johnson and I climbed a delightful mixed route on December 16. We skied a couple of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, South Early Winter Spire, North Face, 1988
South Early Winter Spire, North Face, 1988. In August 1988, Doug Ingersoll and I climbed a partially new route of the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Oregan—Cascade Mountains, Mount Hood, Illumination Rock
Mount Hood, Illumination Rock. In May, I soloed the eastwall of Illumination Rock, a columnar-jointed spire, jutting out from Mount ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, North Palisade, Southwest Buttress
North Palisade, Southwest Buttress. On June 29, Steve Porcella and I returned to the west face of North Palisade and made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Humphreys, North Face
Mount Humphreys, North Face. Darla Heil and I had planned to do the Rowell-Faint route, but it seems that we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Two Climbs in the Southern Palisades,1989
Two Climbs in the Southern Palisades, 1989. In late September and early October, 1989, Ron Cappasso and I did two new routes, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Powell, East Face
Mount Powell, East Face. Intending to climb the original route on the east face of Mount Powell, on August 28 I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Obelisk, Northwest Corner
The Obelisk, Northwest Corner. Don Palmer, Jack Bedell and I climbed a new route on the Obelisk’s northwest comer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Obelisk, West Face
Obelisk, West Face. The west face of the Obelisk is a spectacular, orange-colored, knobby wall. On the right side of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Angel Peak
Angel Peak. In January, Paul Fehlau and I attempted a new route on the unclimbed south face of Angel Peak. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Starlight Peak, West Buttress
Starlight Peak, West Buttress. From the Palisade Basin, one can see imme diately left (north) of the prominent west-facing wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, El Capitan, Reach for the Sky, 1989
El Capitan, Reach for the Sky, 1989. This route, done in the fall of 1989, starts several hundred yards left of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, El Capitan, Genesis, 1989
El Capitan, Genesis, 1989. In May 1989, Doug Englekirk and I climbed a new route on El Capitan (Genesis, VI, 5.11b, A4+). ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Half Dome, Northwest Face, Kali-Yuga, 1989
Half Dome, Northwest Face, Kali-Yuga, 1989. In early October 1989, I arrived in Yosemite with no specific plans and met Walt Shipley, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Washington Column
Washington Column. In August, Stewart Irving and I climbed a new 8-pitch section on the east face of Washington Column ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Utah, Streaked Wall, Zion National Park
Streaked Wall, Zion National Park. In mid April, Mugs Stump and I made the first ascent of the Streaked Wall. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Utah, Abraham, Three Patriarchs, Southwest Buttress, Zion National Park
Abraham, Three Patriarchs, Southwest Buttress, Zion National Park. Walt Shipley and I met in Springdale, Utah in May for a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Utah, Cottontail Tower and Echo Tower, Fisher Towers, 1988 and 1989
Cottontail Tower and Echo Tower, Fisher Towers, 1988 and 1989. I soloed a new route up the south face of Cottontail Tower ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Mount Hooker, North Face
Mount Hooker, North Face. Mark Rolofson, Stuart Ritchie and I climbed a six-pitch variation to the 1964 Robbins route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Mount Bonneville, South Ridge of South Peak
Mount Bonneville, South Ridge of South Peak. Carol Lenz and I climbed the south ridge of the south summit of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Mount Temple, North Face, 1988
Mount Temple, North Face, 1988. In August 1988, Fred Beckey, Carl Horton, Paul Guajardo and I climbed an oblique system of cracks ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Palmer Creek Buttress, 1989
Palmer Creek Buttress, 1989. In July 1989, Fred Beckey, Brian Litz and I climbed Palmer Creek Buttress, a west-facing wall of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Squaretop Mountain, 1989
Squaretop Mountain, 1989. In August, 1989, Mike Colacino and I made the first free ascent of the west face of Squaretop Mountain. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Colorado, South Platte Area
South Platte Area. Gene Ellis and I were active here during the summer of 1990, climbing several routes on the Upper ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991
North America, United States, Colorado, Longs Peak, 1988
Longs Peak, 1988. In early April, 1988, I soloed a new route on the Diamond without fixed rope or bolts. Smash the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1991