American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

504 Records

Title Publication Year
United States, California—Yosemite, Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, "The Golden Bear"
Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, “The Golden Bear.” In June, Richard Swayze and I climbed two-and-a-half pitches on this large formation ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Yosemite, El Capitan Climbed by a Paraplegic
El Capitan Climbed by a Paraplegic. Mark Wellman, whose fall on another Yosemite climb in 1982 rendered him a paraplegic with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, "Piece de Renaissance"
Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, “Pièce de Renaissance.” In mid April during a spell of clear weather, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Angel Wings, South Face, "Hell on Wings"
Angel Wings, South Face, “Hell on Wings.” In July, Richard Leversee, Kim Grandfield and I climbed this route, located on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Ruby Lake Wall, "Technical Knockout"
Ruby Lake Wall, “Technical Knockout.” It is somewhat confusing to describe routes on this wall. Basically, there is a series ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, King's Canyon, Buck Rock
King’s Canyon, Buck Rock. Old bolts give evidence of people climbing at Buck Rock for years. Below the lookout, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area
Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area. Paticia Bowl is a high bowl directly above (northwest) of Rock Creek Lodge. Access is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Russell, West Chimney
Mount Russell, West Chimney, The west face of Mount Russell is one of the finest big walls in the Sierra ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arete
Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arête. The east face of Mount Tyndall is one of the most impressive walls in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Williamson, Direct South Arete
Mount Williamson, Direct South Arête. The south face of Mount Williamson is a complex wall of chutes, ribs and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, North Palisade, Putterman Couloir
North Palisade, Putterman Couloir. On July 2, Cameron Bums and I ascended what we believe to be a previously unclimbed couloir ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, North Palisade, "The White Ship"
North Palisade, “The White Ship.” After climbing the Putterman Couloir, Steve Porcella and I ascended a route up the center ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, "Es lasst sich nicht lesen "
North Palisade, “Es lässt sich nicht lesen."” The day after climbing the previous two routes, Cameron Bums and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, "Smoke Blanchard Memorial Route"
Middle Palisade, “Smoke Blanchard Memorial Route.” On July 10, Steve Porcella and I climbed a new route on the west side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Split Mountain, "Horeshoe Arete"
Split Mountain, “Horseshoe Arête.” While climbing Middle Palisade, Cameron Burns and I noticed a massive ridge coming off P 13,803, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Utah, Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers
Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers. This is an area known for soft, dirty rock and aid routes with long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, New Mexico, "Leaning Tower," Jemez Mountains
“Leaning Tower,” Jemez Mountains. Though they appear relatively gentle from the distance, the Jemez Mountains have many canyons, towers and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Idaho, P 10,240, Lemhi Mountains
P 10,240, Lemhi Mountains. For the most part, the Lemhi Mountains are rounded peaks of rotten sedimentary rock which offer little ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Wyoming--Wind River Range, Wolverine Peak, North Buttress, 1988
Wolverine Peak, North Buttress, 1988. James and Franciska Garrett and I climbed a new route at the head of the northeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy, Icefield Ranges
Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy, Icefield Ranges. A number of expeditions were on Mount Logan in 1989. Coloradans Peter Smith, JoAnn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan Research
Mount Logan Research. A glaciological expedition led by me spent 42 days, from June 1 to July 13, on Mount Logan, carrying out ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Yukon Territory, Mounts Wood and Queen Mary, Icefield Ranges, 1988
Mounts Wood and Queen Mary, Icefield Ranges, 1988. During the spring of 1988, the wardens of Kluane National Park made two training ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Yukon Territory, McArthur Peak, Central Spur of South Face, 1988
McArthur Peak, Central Spur of South Face, 1988. From May 22, 1988 through May 26, Tim Friesen, Ken Wallator and I climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, British Columbia Coast Range, Heartstone Peak, North Buttress
Heartstone Peak, North Buttress. In late July, from a fine camp on a tiny outcrop at the edge of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, British Columbia Coast Range, Mount Styx, Bella Coola Range, British Columbia, 1988
Mount Styx, Bella Coola Range, British Columbia, 1988. On August 28, 1988, Fred Beckey, Stimson Bullitt and I made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Selkirks, Moby Dick, 1988
Moby Dick, 1988. The very prominent steep and crevassed north glacier of Moby Dick was climbed for the second time on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Selkirks, Gimli, Valhalla Group, 1988
Gimli, Valhalla Group, 1988. On August 12, 1988, Cliff Leight, Peter Jewett, Dan Waters and I climbed a new line on Gimli on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Selkirks, Ahab, 1986
Ahab, 1986. Ronald Van Horssen, Steve Drake and I climbed the striking pillar on the lower southwest face of Ahab in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Canadian Arctic, Climbs in Auyuttuq National Park, Baffin Island
Climbs in Auyuttuq National Park, Baffin Island. On August 7, Willard Moulton, Bill Morris, Jim Osborne, Dr. Douglas Halliday, Dr. Michael ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Canadian Arctic, Borup Fiord, Ellesmere Island, 1988.
Borup Fiord, Ellesmere Island, 1988. Although the primary aims of the expedition were scientific, there was mountaineering activity. Most peaks over 3000 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Greenland, Gunnbjørns Fjeld, Dome and Cone, 1988
Gunnbjørns Fjeld, Dome and Cone, 1988. Our expedition consisted of Lars Ogenhag and me, Sweden; Peter Herzog, Austria; Mark Jenkins, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Greenland, Note on the Altitudes of Gunnbjorns Fjeld, Dome and Cone
Note on the Altitudes of Gunnbjørns Fjeld, Dome and Cone. Although Major Olsson has made the claim that both ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Greenland, Gunnbjorns Fjeld, Dome and Cone, 1988
Gunnbjørns Fjeld. A Mountain Travel expedition made another ascent of Gunnbjøms Fjeld. On June 26, Americans Jim Williams, Jerry ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Previous History of Gunnbjorns Fjeld
Previous History of Gunnbjørns Fjeld. James Lowther has been kind enough to supply us with further data about Gunnbjø...
AAJ
Notes
1990
Gunnbjorns Fjeld, 1988, More Details
Gunnbjørns Fjeld, 1988, More Details. (This will help complete the report given in AAJ, 1989, page 164.) In addition to Greg Englefield, ...
AAJ
Notes
1990
Greenland, Mount Forel and Schweizerland, 1986
Mont Forel and Schweizerland, 1986. On the evening of July 9, 1986, Duncan Bond, Greg Englefield, Jim Lowther and I departed by boat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Greenland, Milne Island, Scorseby Sound, East Greenland
Milne Island, Scorseby Sound, East Greenland. From July 29 to August 18, Michael Garrett, Pamela Glanville, Margaret Graham, Philip Nixon, John Shrewsbury, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Greenland, Peaks above Fenrisgletscher, Schweizerland, East Greenland
Peaks Above Fenrisgletscher, Schweizerland, East Greenland. Elziro Molin, Gastone Lorenzini and I as leader were helicoptered from Tasiilaq on June 26 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Greenland, P 2100, Kap Farvel, 1977 and 1986
P 2100, Kap Farvel, 1974 and 1986. Beyond Kangikitsoq on the right bank of the fjord rises imposing P 2100 (6890 feet). At the beginning ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Ecuador, Sangay
Sangay. Although Sangay (5323 meters, 17,463 feet) was no first ascent, it will be useful to give information for anyone who decides ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Ecuador, Cayambe, North Side, Cotopaxi, Yanasacha Wall and Tungurahua, Southwest Flank and South Ridge
Cayambe, North Side, Cotopaxi, Yanasacha Wall and Tungurahua, Southwest Flank and South Ridge. A new route on the north side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Peru, Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, 1989
Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, 1989. I feel that the international press has exaggerated the danger to climbers in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Peru, Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Tsurup, Pisco, Ocshapalca, Cayesh
Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Tsurup, Pisco, Ocshapalca, Cayesh. For acclimatization Joan Amils and I climbed the north face of Quitaraju on June 16 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Peru, Tocllaraju, Southwest Face
Tocllaraju, Southwest Face. The expedition of our newly founded Club de Montañeros Américo Tordoya placed a Base Camp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Peru, Colque Cruz V and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota
Colque Cruz V and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of Jon Morgan, James Hall, Charles Halstead, Tim ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Peru, Tacusiri, Ausangate and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota
Tacusiri, Ausangate and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Because of terrorism in the Cordillera Huayhuash, we changed our objective to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Bolivia, Iscacuchu, Cololo, Huelancalloc and Other Peaks, Northern Pupuya Group, Cordillera Apolobamba
Iscacuchu, Cololo, Huelancalloc and Other Peaks, Northern Pupuya Group, Cordillera Apolobamba. Steve Hillen, leader, Ian Burgess, Ian Diamond, David Lister, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Bolivia, Cololo, Palomani Grande, Huanacuni and Nubi, Cordillera Apolobamba
Cololo, Palomani Grande, Huanacuni and Nubi, Cordillera Apolobamba. David Tyson, Pamela Holt and I climbed on both sides of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Illampu Group, Pico del Norte
In the middle of August, Spaniards Álvaro Enrique Fernández Escalante and Miguel de Merlo climbed what they ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
South America, Bolivia, Chachacomani, Chearoco and Other Peaks, 1984 to 1989
Chachacomani, Chearoco and Other Peaks, 1984 to 1989. The American Alpine Institute has conducted a number of expeditions into the Chachacomani- Chearoco ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990