American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

504 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Matho Kangri I and III
Matho Kangri I and III. Matho Kangri (or Yan Kangri) had been climbed only once before, by Japanese in 1986. A 21...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Kolahoi, Southeast Rib
Kolahoi, Southeast Rib. On June 25, Jan Harris and I made what may have been the first ascent of the southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram, Saser Kangri I and IV, 1988
Saser Kangri I and IV, 1988. The 144 kilometers from Leh to Panamik were covered by Army trucks via the highest road ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram, Peaks above Chong Kumdan and Aq Tash Glaciers
Peaks Above Chong Kumdan and Aq Tash Glaciers. Our members were Arun Samant, Muslim Contractor, Monesh Devjani, Vijay Kothari, Ashwin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram, Rimo II and IV
Rimo II and IV. An Indo-International expedition, led jointly by Sonam Palzor and Doug Scott, climbed Rimo II (7373 meters, 24,190 feet) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram, Mamostang Kangri, Third Ascent
Mamostong Kangri, Third Ascent. Indian Army Engineers led by me climbed Mamostong Kangri (“Thousand Devils Peak”) by the same route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt
K2 Attempt. Our expedition comprised 10 Basques, Balti “Little” Karim and me. The Basque members were Iñaki Carranza, Juanjo San ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
K2 Attempt and Tragedy
An Austrian expedition was composed of leader Edi Koblmüller, Hans Bärnthaler, Robert Strouhal, Gustav Ammerer, Herbert Hutar, Dr. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt
K2 Attempt. Swiss Jean Troillet and I made what hardly can be called an attempt on K2 from the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Attempts
Broad Peak Attempts. This was not a good year for expeditions to Broad Peak. Bernard Muller and his wife Laurence ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I Ascent and Tragedy
Gasherbrum I Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition, composed of four Japanese, Russian Igor Kurkov, Nepali Tsindi Dorje Sherpa and Austrians ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I. Austrian Willi Bauer was back in the Karakoram in 1989 from which he barely escaped in the disastrous 1986 tragedy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Netherlands Gasherbrum II Ascent, 1988
Netherlands Gasherbrum II Ascent, 1988. On June 25, 1988, Arjan van Waardenburg, Rene de Bos, Hans van der Meulen and I reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II. Toni Fullin, Tito Planzer, Peter Stadler and I left Dassu on May 8, the first expedition of the year. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Gasjerbrum II, All-Women's Ascent
Gasherbrum II, All-Women’s Ascent. The first all-women’s team from Britain to an 8000er was composed of Rhona Lampard, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy
Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. We were Javier Bermejo, Xabier Erro, Pili Ganuza de Goñi, Javier Garayoa, José Miguel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Attempts
Gasherbrum II Attempts. Aside from the American attempt described below, there were two other unsuccessful tries to climb Gasherbrum II. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Attempt
Gasherbrum II Attempt. Ours was the first American commercial expedition to an 8000-meter peak. We were Galen Rowell, deputy leader, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Chogolisa Attempt, 1988
Chogolisa Attempt, 1988. On page 245 of AAJ, 1989, it incorrectly stated that a French expedition led by Christian Bourgeon changed its objective ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Attempt
Masherbrum Attempt. Our team members were Mark Miller, Nigel Hillman, Bruce Hubbard, Stuart Bygrave, Adrian Bake, Mike Cross, Graham Hulme, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Tower, Trango Group
Nameless Tower, Trango Group. A Spanish expedition made another new and very difficult route on the Nameless Tower. It rises ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Trango Towers Attempts
Trango Towers Attempts. Canadians Jim Brennan and Greg Foweraker and Americans Dan Cauthom, Greg Collum, Matt Kerns, Pat McNerthney and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Trango Tower, Eternal Flame Route
Nameless Trango Tower, Eternal Flame Route. Our expedition was composed of Milan Sykora, Christoph Stiegler, Wolfgang Güllich and me. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Trango Towers Correction
Trango Towers Correction. On page 250 of AAJ, 1989, it incorrectly gives the belief that the main summit of the Trango Châ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, P 5866 (Thunmo), Baltoro Cathedral, Solo
P 5866 (Thunmo), Baltoro Cathedral, solo. In June, with a trekking permit and seven porters, I set up “Base Camp” on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Uli Biaho Tower, East Face Attempt
Uli Biaho Tower, East Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Carlo Grossrubatscher, Adam Holzknecht, Dieter Demetz, Walter Pancheri and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Uli Biaho Spire
Uli Biaho Spire. A New Zealand expedition was made up of leader Nicholas Craddock, Guy Cotter, Paul Rogers and Murray ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, P6100, Choktoi Glacier
P 6100, Choktoi Glacier. Spaniards Jon Lazcano and Javier Mugarra made the first ascent of a very difficult 6100-meters (29,013-foot) spire ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Sosburn Tower Attempt
Sosbun Tower Attempt. Tilman described the peaks of the Hoh Valley as “an uncompromising rock wall crowned with jagged towers,” ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt
Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt. Our expedition had as its members Andy Perkins, Chris Flewitt, Steve Hartland, Phil Butler, Dave ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Lawa Brakk
Lawa Brakk. A British Metropolitan Police expedition was led by Gordon A. Briggs. On July 29, after a seven-day climb, Arthur ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks Above the Hispar Glacier
Peaks Above the Hispar Glacier. During August and September, Mike Searle, Sean Smith, Simon Yates, Mark Crawford and I visited ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, P 6666 Attempt
P 6666 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Akira Takita was unable to get higher than 5200 meters on the northwest ridge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Spantik
Spantik. Our expedition was composed of Helga Kircher, Rolf-Christian Reich, Emilie-Ursula Reich, Dr. Wolgang Bunzl, Ludwig Rohrmeier, Franz Kuhnhauser, Johann ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Spantik Attempt and Tragedy
Spantik Attempt. Another group of Germans led by Herbert Streibel failed to reach the summit of Spantik.
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Diran Attempts and Tragedy
Diran Attempts and Tragedy. Of the expeditions which went to Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) in 1989, only the Japanese group led by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Diran, North Ridge
Diran, North Ridge. The six-man expedition of the Hirosaki University Alpine Club was led by Ken Takahashi. They climbed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi Attempt
Rakaposhi Attempt. After arriving at Jaglot on July 24, José Angel Cobo, Perfecto Rodríguez, Francisco José Ruiz, Iñaki Ruiz, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Shikitin Sar, Shimshal Valley
Shifkitin Sar, Shimshal Valley. In 1986, an Irish expedition reconnoitered the Malanguti Glacier area in the Shimshal valley and unsuccessfully attempted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Shishpare Attempt, Batura Mustagh
Shispare Attempt, Batura Mustagh. Our members included Kenichi Masui, Yasuyuki Uehara, Tatsuya Ohmura, Takayuki Tachibana, Yetetsu Adachi and me as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Batura Mustagh Map
Batura Mustagh Map. Another of the excellent maps by Jerzy Wala is available, a map of the Batura group in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks above Barpu Glacier, West Karakoram
Peaks Above Barpu Glacier, West Karakoram. In mid August Ralph Atkinson, Ged Campion, Mick Curtin, John Keska, Stewart Muir and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Hunza
Hunza. Following a visit to the area by Pete Thompson and me in 1988, I returned for a second visit in 1989 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Shani, Naltar Valley
Shani, Naltar Valley. Our expedition had as climbers Duncan Francis, Martin Oakes and me, as well as support members. Having ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1988-9
Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1988-9. Our expedition consisted of Maciej Berbeka, Piotr Konopka, Dr. Roman Mazik, Andrzej Osika, Andrzej Samolewicz, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempts
Nanga Parbat Attempts. Few of the expeditions to Nanga Parbat this year were successful. Among those which did not get ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempt
Nanga Parbat Attempt. We were Davorin and Luka Kamicar, Sandi Marincic and I. On June 13, we left Chilas for Base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Tragedy
Nanga Parbat Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Ryoo Gil-Man attempted the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. On June 23, Kim ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, German and Pakistani Success
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, German and Pakistani Success. I organized this small expedition but gave the leadership over to German ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face, Attempt and Tragedy
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Hitoshi Sakurai, Nobuyoshi Sakurai, Iwao Ogasawara, Shinji ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990