American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

504 Records

Title Publication Year
United States, Alaska, P 7400, East Side of the Ruth Gorge
P 7400, East Side of the Ruth Gorge. Doug Klewin and I climbed the southwest face of P 7400. The first eight ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, "Naglishlamina Peak," Tordrillo Mountains
“Naglishlamina Peak, ” Tordrillo Mountains. The last unclimbed Anchorage skyline peak exceeding 10,000 feet was finally ascended on April 5 in a seven-day ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, "Bounty Peak," P 7240 and P 7265, Western Chugach
“Bounty Peak,” P 7240 and P 7265, Western Chugach. Beautiful, remote “Bounty Peak” had not been climbed since 1969. (See AAJ, 1970, page 113.) Jim ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, P 7455, P 7420, P 6600, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains
P 7455, P 7420, P 6600, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. On June 7, a six-man joint St. Elias Guides and American Alpine Institute expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, P 7254, P6842, P 5651, P7724, P 7138
P 7254, P 6842, P5651, P 7724, P 7138, Chugach Mountains. On June 19, Conner Hough, Kelley Miller-Pluckebaum, Bob Pluckebaum, Bob Schindler and I flew ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, P 7401and P 6283, Thompson Ridge Area, 1988
P 7401 and P 6283, Thompson Ridge Area, 1988. Austrian Thomas Schranz and I were flown to a sandbank in a river bed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Frederika Mountain, Wrangell Mountains
Frederika Mountain, Wrangell Mountains. Frederika is a beautiful, snow cone just east of Mount Regal. The mountain was first named ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Caliban, Xanadu, The Maidens and Shot Tower, Arrigetch Peaks, Brooks Range
Caliban, Xanadu, The Maidens and Shot Tower, Arrigetch Peaks, Brooks Range. In Late June and early July, Bob McGregor, Yan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Mount Fairweather, East-Southeast Ridge and "Sabine"
Mount Fairweather, East-Southeast Ridge and “Sabine.” Gaping crevasses made it impossible to land near our chosen objective. A snap, mid-air ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Chablis Spire, Lichen Bouquet
Chablis Spire, Lichen Bouquet. The Wine Spires are a tight cluster of granite needles east of Washington Pass with sheer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, "Tooth and Claw"
Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, “Tooth and Claw.” This seven-pitch route ascends slabs, roofs and discontinuous systems to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Washingon Pass Overlook
Washington Pass Overlook. On June 25, Brian Burdo, Dave Tower and I did the first free ascents of two routes on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, North Early Winter Spire, West Face, "Labor Pains"
North Early Winter Spire, West Face, “Labor Pains." On Labor Day, Donna McBain and I did this fun six-pitch route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Chimney Rock, North Peak, North Ridge
Chimney Rock, North Peak, North Ridge. From an approach on the Overcoat Glacier, Donna McBain and I did this route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Index, North Peak, Supercouloir
Mount Index, North Peak, Supercouloir. On February 8, Jim Nelson and I hiked from Lake Serene through a 1360-foot pass to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Dragontail Peak, Northeast Buttress, Stuart Range
Dragontail Peak, Northeast Buttress, Stuart Range. During a stormy July weekend, Wayne Wallace and I climbed the northeast buttress of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Dumbbell Mountain, Northeast Face, 1988
Dumbbell Mountain, Northeast Face, 1988. On September 5, 1988, I climbed this new route. I started at the high point of the snowfield ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Beacon Rock, Final Curtain, 1988
Beacon Rock, Final Curtain, 1988. In July of 1988, Tim Olson and I climbed a discontinuous six-pitch arch, slab and dyhedral system ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Beacon Rock, East Face Closure
Beacon Rock, East Face Closure. The southeast face of Beacon Rock was closed in July of 1989. The Washington State Park ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Lithuanian-American Exchange
Lithuanian-American Exchange. In August, a team of Lithuanian mountaineers arrived in the United States to climb in the Cascades, despite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Yosemite, Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, "The Golden Bear"
Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, “The Golden Bear.” In June, Richard Swayze and I climbed two-and-a-half pitches on this large formation ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Yosemite, El Capitan Climbed by a Paraplegic
El Capitan Climbed by a Paraplegic. Mark Wellman, whose fall on another Yosemite climb in 1982 rendered him a paraplegic with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, "Piece de Renaissance"
Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, “Pièce de Renaissance.” In mid April during a spell of clear weather, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Angel Wings, South Face, "Hell on Wings"
Angel Wings, South Face, “Hell on Wings.” In July, Richard Leversee, Kim Grandfield and I climbed this route, located on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Ruby Lake Wall, "Technical Knockout"
Ruby Lake Wall, “Technical Knockout.” It is somewhat confusing to describe routes on this wall. Basically, there is a series ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, King's Canyon, Buck Rock
King’s Canyon, Buck Rock. Old bolts give evidence of people climbing at Buck Rock for years. Below the lookout, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area
Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area. Paticia Bowl is a high bowl directly above (northwest) of Rock Creek Lodge. Access is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Russell, West Chimney
Mount Russell, West Chimney, The west face of Mount Russell is one of the finest big walls in the Sierra ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arete
Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arête. The east face of Mount Tyndall is one of the most impressive walls in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Williamson, Direct South Arete
Mount Williamson, Direct South Arête. The south face of Mount Williamson is a complex wall of chutes, ribs and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, North Palisade, Putterman Couloir
North Palisade, Putterman Couloir. On July 2, Cameron Bums and I ascended what we believe to be a previously unclimbed couloir ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, North Palisade, "The White Ship"
North Palisade, “The White Ship.” After climbing the Putterman Couloir, Steve Porcella and I ascended a route up the center ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, "Es lasst sich nicht lesen "
North Palisade, “Es lässt sich nicht lesen."” The day after climbing the previous two routes, Cameron Bums and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, "Smoke Blanchard Memorial Route"
Middle Palisade, “Smoke Blanchard Memorial Route.” On July 10, Steve Porcella and I climbed a new route on the west side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Split Mountain, "Horeshoe Arete"
Split Mountain, “Horseshoe Arête.” While climbing Middle Palisade, Cameron Burns and I noticed a massive ridge coming off P 13,803, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Utah, Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers
Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers. This is an area known for soft, dirty rock and aid routes with long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, New Mexico, "Leaning Tower," Jemez Mountains
“Leaning Tower,” Jemez Mountains. Though they appear relatively gentle from the distance, the Jemez Mountains have many canyons, towers and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Idaho, P 10,240, Lemhi Mountains
P 10,240, Lemhi Mountains. For the most part, the Lemhi Mountains are rounded peaks of rotten sedimentary rock which offer little ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Wyoming--Wind River Range, Wolverine Peak, North Buttress, 1988
Wolverine Peak, North Buttress, 1988. James and Franciska Garrett and I climbed a new route at the head of the northeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy, Icefield Ranges
Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy, Icefield Ranges. A number of expeditions were on Mount Logan in 1989. Coloradans Peter Smith, JoAnn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan Research
Mount Logan Research. A glaciological expedition led by me spent 42 days, from June 1 to July 13, on Mount Logan, carrying out ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Yukon Territory, Mounts Wood and Queen Mary, Icefield Ranges, 1988
Mounts Wood and Queen Mary, Icefield Ranges, 1988. During the spring of 1988, the wardens of Kluane National Park made two training ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Yukon Territory, McArthur Peak, Central Spur of South Face, 1988
McArthur Peak, Central Spur of South Face, 1988. From May 22, 1988 through May 26, Tim Friesen, Ken Wallator and I climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, British Columbia Coast Range, Heartstone Peak, North Buttress
Heartstone Peak, North Buttress. In late July, from a fine camp on a tiny outcrop at the edge of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, British Columbia Coast Range, Mount Styx, Bella Coola Range, British Columbia, 1988
Mount Styx, Bella Coola Range, British Columbia, 1988. On August 28, 1988, Fred Beckey, Stimson Bullitt and I made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Selkirks, Moby Dick, 1988
Moby Dick, 1988. The very prominent steep and crevassed north glacier of Moby Dick was climbed for the second time on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Selkirks, Gimli, Valhalla Group, 1988
Gimli, Valhalla Group, 1988. On August 12, 1988, Cliff Leight, Peter Jewett, Dan Waters and I climbed a new line on Gimli on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Selkirks, Ahab, 1986
Ahab, 1986. Ronald Van Horssen, Steve Drake and I climbed the striking pillar on the lower southwest face of Ahab in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Canadian Arctic, Climbs in Auyuttuq National Park, Baffin Island
Climbs in Auyuttuq National Park, Baffin Island. On August 7, Willard Moulton, Bill Morris, Jim Osborne, Dr. Douglas Halliday, Dr. Michael ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
Canada, Canadian Arctic, Borup Fiord, Ellesmere Island, 1988.
Borup Fiord, Ellesmere Island, 1988. Although the primary aims of the expedition were scientific, there was mountaineering activity. Most peaks over 3000 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990