American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

504 Records

Title Publication Year
Cold Sweat on Makalu
Cold Sweat on Makalu Pierre Beghin, Groupe de Haute Montagne FOR HALF AN HOUR our group had been clustered about ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Khumbhakarna—My Way
Kumbhakarna—My Way Tomo Cesen, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia FOR A YEAR, I debated with myself whether to try to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
The Northeast Rib of Kwangde Central
The Northeast Rib of Kwangde Central Alan Kearney I THOUGHT THAT LIVING IN Kathmandu would offer greater climbing opportunities than ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Mount Russell's East Face
Mount Russell’s East Face Charles Townsend WE HAD SEEN THE PEAK both from Hunter and Foraker—it stood out ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Foraker's Infinite Spur
Foraker’s Infinite Spur Mark Bebie WEATHER FOCUSES YOUR CHOICES in the mountains. Jim Nelson and I read many books ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Hunter's Northwest Face
Hunter’s Northwest Face Conrad Anker Get worse, stay the same or get better—Foolproof Denali Weather Forecast OPERATING THE ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Eroica, Mount Hunter
Eroica, Mount Hunter Roy Ruddle, Alpine Climbing Group WHEN JONATHAN PRESTON AND I met for the first time at an ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Moose's Tooth and Huntington
Moose’s Tooth and Huntington James Quirk, Unaffiliated DAVE NETTLE AND I hadn’t been in Talkeetna for more than ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Denali's West Rib Solo in Winter
Denali’s West Rib Solo in Winter David Staeheli HOPING TO CLIMB DENALI’S SOUTH Face solo in the style ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
One Hundred Years of Crossings of Greenland's Inland Ice
One Hundred Years of Crossings of Greenland’s Inland Ice* Gunnar Jensen, Arctic Expeditions Adviser, Denmark MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
The First Twenty-Seven Years, The Safety Report of the American Alpine Club
The First Twenty-Seven Years The Safety Report of the American Alpine Club Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr., M.D. SHORTLY AFTER ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Sir George Everest's 200th Birthday
Sir George Everest’s 200th Birthday Audrey Salkeld, The Alpine Club SIR GEORGE EVEREST was bom two hundred years ago. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Henry S. Hall, Jr. Memorial Everest Relief Model
Henry S. Hall, Jr. Memorial Everest Relief Model Bradford Washburn IN MEMORY OF HENRY S. HALL, Jr., a new and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Climbing Ethics
Climbing Ethics This was written by the American Alpine Club and Mountain Tools, Inc. under the leadership of Sam Davidson. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1990
Climbs and Expeditions, 1989, United States, Alaska
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1989. For the fourth consecutive year, a new record was set for the number ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley Winter Attempt and Tragedy
Mount McKinley Winter Attempt and Tragedy. Japanese Noburo Yamada, Teruo Saegusa and Kozo Komatsu attempted to make a winter ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Alaskan Climbs Appearing as Full Articles
Alaskan Climbs Appearing as Full Articles. Aside from the climbs reported here, the following are covered in complete articles: the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Hunter, Southwest Ridge to South Summit
Hunter, Southwest Ridge to South Summit. After encountering chest-deep snow on the Lowe-Kennedy route, Andy Jenson, Cory Brettmann, Dave Karl ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Mount Brooks, South Summit, East Ridge
Mount Brooks, South Summit, East Ridge. Scott Gill and I climbed the east ridge of Mount Brooks to the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Crown Jewell, Throne and "Plunger," Little Switzerland
Crown Jewell, Throne and “Plunger”, Little Switzerland. In August, Rob Heineman and I spent four days on the Pika Glacier ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, P 7400, East Side of the Ruth Gorge
P 7400, East Side of the Ruth Gorge. Doug Klewin and I climbed the southwest face of P 7400. The first eight ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, "Naglishlamina Peak," Tordrillo Mountains
“Naglishlamina Peak, ” Tordrillo Mountains. The last unclimbed Anchorage skyline peak exceeding 10,000 feet was finally ascended on April 5 in a seven-day ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, "Bounty Peak," P 7240 and P 7265, Western Chugach
“Bounty Peak,” P 7240 and P 7265, Western Chugach. Beautiful, remote “Bounty Peak” had not been climbed since 1969. (See AAJ, 1970, page 113.) Jim ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, P 7455, P 7420, P 6600, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains
P 7455, P 7420, P 6600, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. On June 7, a six-man joint St. Elias Guides and American Alpine Institute expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, P 7254, P6842, P 5651, P7724, P 7138
P 7254, P 6842, P5651, P 7724, P 7138, Chugach Mountains. On June 19, Conner Hough, Kelley Miller-Pluckebaum, Bob Pluckebaum, Bob Schindler and I flew ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, P 7401and P 6283, Thompson Ridge Area, 1988
P 7401 and P 6283, Thompson Ridge Area, 1988. Austrian Thomas Schranz and I were flown to a sandbank in a river bed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Frederika Mountain, Wrangell Mountains
Frederika Mountain, Wrangell Mountains. Frederika is a beautiful, snow cone just east of Mount Regal. The mountain was first named ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Caliban, Xanadu, The Maidens and Shot Tower, Arrigetch Peaks, Brooks Range
Caliban, Xanadu, The Maidens and Shot Tower, Arrigetch Peaks, Brooks Range. In Late June and early July, Bob McGregor, Yan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Alaska, Mount Fairweather, East-Southeast Ridge and "Sabine"
Mount Fairweather, East-Southeast Ridge and “Sabine.” Gaping crevasses made it impossible to land near our chosen objective. A snap, mid-air ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Chablis Spire, Lichen Bouquet
Chablis Spire, Lichen Bouquet. The Wine Spires are a tight cluster of granite needles east of Washington Pass with sheer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, "Tooth and Claw"
Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, “Tooth and Claw.” This seven-pitch route ascends slabs, roofs and discontinuous systems to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Washingon Pass Overlook
Washington Pass Overlook. On June 25, Brian Burdo, Dave Tower and I did the first free ascents of two routes on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, North Early Winter Spire, West Face, "Labor Pains"
North Early Winter Spire, West Face, “Labor Pains." On Labor Day, Donna McBain and I did this fun six-pitch route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Chimney Rock, North Peak, North Ridge
Chimney Rock, North Peak, North Ridge. From an approach on the Overcoat Glacier, Donna McBain and I did this route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Index, North Peak, Supercouloir
Mount Index, North Peak, Supercouloir. On February 8, Jim Nelson and I hiked from Lake Serene through a 1360-foot pass to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Dragontail Peak, Northeast Buttress, Stuart Range
Dragontail Peak, Northeast Buttress, Stuart Range. During a stormy July weekend, Wayne Wallace and I climbed the northeast buttress of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Dumbbell Mountain, Northeast Face, 1988
Dumbbell Mountain, Northeast Face, 1988. On September 5, 1988, I climbed this new route. I started at the high point of the snowfield ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Beacon Rock, Final Curtain, 1988
Beacon Rock, Final Curtain, 1988. In July of 1988, Tim Olson and I climbed a discontinuous six-pitch arch, slab and dyhedral system ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Beacon Rock, East Face Closure
Beacon Rock, East Face Closure. The southeast face of Beacon Rock was closed in July of 1989. The Washington State Park ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Lithuanian-American Exchange
Lithuanian-American Exchange. In August, a team of Lithuanian mountaineers arrived in the United States to climb in the Cascades, despite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Yosemite, Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, "The Golden Bear"
Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, “The Golden Bear.” In June, Richard Swayze and I climbed two-and-a-half pitches on this large formation ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Yosemite, El Capitan Climbed by a Paraplegic
El Capitan Climbed by a Paraplegic. Mark Wellman, whose fall on another Yosemite climb in 1982 rendered him a paraplegic with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, "Piece de Renaissance"
Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, “Pièce de Renaissance.” In mid April during a spell of clear weather, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Angel Wings, South Face, "Hell on Wings"
Angel Wings, South Face, “Hell on Wings.” In July, Richard Leversee, Kim Grandfield and I climbed this route, located on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Ruby Lake Wall, "Technical Knockout"
Ruby Lake Wall, “Technical Knockout.” It is somewhat confusing to describe routes on this wall. Basically, there is a series ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, King's Canyon, Buck Rock
King’s Canyon, Buck Rock. Old bolts give evidence of people climbing at Buck Rock for years. Below the lookout, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area
Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area. Paticia Bowl is a high bowl directly above (northwest) of Rock Creek Lodge. Access is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Russell, West Chimney
Mount Russell, West Chimney, The west face of Mount Russell is one of the finest big walls in the Sierra ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arete
Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arête. The east face of Mount Tyndall is one of the most impressive walls in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Williamson, Direct South Arete
Mount Williamson, Direct South Arête. The south face of Mount Williamson is a complex wall of chutes, ribs and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1990