American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

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485 Records

Title Publication Year
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Forty-Second Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada
This is the forty-second issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the eleventh that has been edited and published ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
1989
Avalanche on Ice Climb, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Waterfall
AVALANCHE ON ICE CLIMB Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Waterfall On February 26, 1988, two experienced British climbers, John Bums (33) and Stephen Travers (32), ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Slab and Scree, No Equipment, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain
FALL ON SLAB AND SCREE, NO EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain In July, 1988, two young scramblers looking for an ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Illness, Party Separated, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith Cavell
ILLNESS, PARTY SEPARATED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith Cavell On July 30, 1988, three climbers started early to climb Mount Edith Cavell ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Alberta, Kananaskis Mountains, Mount Lougheed
FALL ON ROCK Alberta, Kananaskis Mountains, Mount Lougheed On July 31, 1988, Brian Wallace (29), Jeff Marshall, and Steve Demaio (23) were climbing the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Bridgeland
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Bridgeland On July 31, 1988, a party of six established camp at an ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Cornice Collapse, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Belanger
CORNICE COLLAPSE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Belanger On December 11, 1988, Heidi Schaefer (24) and Ken Wallator (21) were climbing Mount Belanger, a 3060 meter ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone, Inadequate Equipment, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabaska / Andromeda Col
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabaska/Andromeda Col On July 31, 1988, Mike (25), a climber of moderate ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Shoulder Dislocation, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Throne
SHOULDER DISLOCATION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Throne On August 24, 1988, five climbers were short-roping on moderate terrain on an intermediate rock ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Ice, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Massey Ice Fall
FALL ON ICE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Massey Ice Fall On January 9, 1988 (temperature -15 degrees C), Edward and Rick (both 29) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Rock, Fall on Rock, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Takakkaw Falls
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Takakkaw Falls On July 8, 1988, a field test was being held for ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Exceeding Abilities, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Armada Mountain
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Armada Mountain On August 7, 1988, a party of 12 BCMC members ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Illness, Improper Rappel Procedure, Fall on Rock, British Columbia, Bugaboo Mountains, Snowpatch Spire
ILLNESS, IMPROPER RAPPEL PROCEDURE, FALL ON ROCK British Columbia, Bugaboo Mountains, Snowpatch Spire On August 8, 1988, Bruce MacNab (24) and Martin Condor ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Ice, No Crampons, British Columbia, Monashee Mountains, Woolsey Glacier
FALL ON ICE, NO CRAMPONS British Columbia, Monashee Mountains, Woolsey Glacier On September 4, 1988, Paul (45) and Don made the six-hour alpine ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock and Snow, Climbing Alone, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Slalok Mountains
FALL ON ROCK AND SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Slalok Mountain In late September, 1988, Kirby Inwood, an inexperienced ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Avalanche on Ice Climb, Rocky Mountains, Mount Stephen
AVALANCHE ON ICE CLIMB British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Stephen On December 28, 1988, John Owen (30) and David Franklin (33) walked from Field ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Rock, Fall on Rock, Labrador, Nain, Mount Sophie
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK Labrador, Nain, Mount Sophie On August 10, 1988, at 1000, Yves (32) and Mike (45) were on the first pitch ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fatigue, Exposure, Weather, Carbon Monoxide, Alaska, Mount Marcus Baker
FATIGUE, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, CARBON MONOXIDE Alaska, Mount Marcus Baker On December 28, 1987, Sylvia Lane (28), Frank Jenkins (38) (see ANAM, 1988, p. 19), and John ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Frostbite, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley On May 9, 1988, three members of the “Denali Flight 88 Expedition,” Jond Chrosto- phe, Serge ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall into Crevasse, Inadequate Equipment, Frostbite, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley
FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FROSTBITE, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley On May 2, 1988, the five person Chinese Hong Kong expedition lost ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Exhaustion, Exposure, Hypothermia, Inadequate Equipment, Party Separated, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley
EXHAUSTION, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PARTY SEPARATED, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinley On May 18, 1988, a nine member Genet Expeditions climbing team ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Alaska, Mount McKinely
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Alaska, Mount McKinely On May 18, 1988, a nine member Genet Expeditions guided climbing team departed ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Acute Mountain Sickness, Ascending Too Fast, Climbing Alone, Alaska, Mount McKinley
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, ASCENDING TOO FAST, CLIMBING ALONE Alaska, Mount McKinley Sung Hyun Baek (29) flew in on May 5, 1988, to join ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
HAPE, Ascending Too Fast, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley
HAPE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley On May 28, 1988, High Altitude Medical Project personnel received a report from another ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Stroke, Possible HACE, Ascending Too Fast, Alaska, Mount McKinley
STROKE, POSSIBLE HACE, ASCENDING TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinley On June 3, 1988, two members of the “New York Alpine Club” Korean ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Avalanche, Poor Position, Alaska, Mount McKinley
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION Alaska, Mount McKinley On June 1, 1988, the four man Italian “Valmalenco Expedition” departed the Southeast Fork of the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Avalanche, Alaska, Mount Blackburn
AVALANCHE Alaska, Mount Blackburn On June 16, 1988, a Japanese climbing party of four, led by Yoichi Tadokoro (44) were at the 3200 meter ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Stranded, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Arizona, Capitol Butte
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Arizona, Capitol Butte On January 7, 1988, Richard Mullen (30s), visiting from Oregon where he lived, decided ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate Equipment, Climbing Alone, Arizona, Wilson Canyon
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE Arizona, Wilson Canyon On February 25, 1988, Damien Glassy (30s) had ascended the standard Wilson ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Rock, Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, No Hard Hats, Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon Overlook
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATS Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon Overlook On June 13, 1988, Doug Berry (20) was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Ice, Standing Directly Below Ice Climber
On January 24, 1988, Bill Isherwood (46) and Bill McConachie (36) hiked with two companions to the ice climbing area in Lee Vining Canyon. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California, Joshua Tree National Monument
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National Monument On February 13, 1988, Jeff Smith (23) took a ten meter fall while ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, California, Joshua Tree National Monument
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National Monument On February 15, 1988, Brad Wade (28) took a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Stranded—Among Other Things, California, Yosemite Valley
STRANDED—AMONG OTHER THINGS California, Yosemite Valley Here are a few examples of non-climbers in situations which ended up costing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Improper Harness Tie-In, California, Joshua Tree National Monument
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER HARNESS TIE-IN California, Joshua Tree National Monument On March 25, 1988, Paul Miller (24) fell eight meters while climbing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, California, Lone Pine Peak
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE California, Lone Pine Peak On April 30, 1988, Dave Dykeman and a small group of climbers were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Stranded, Weather, Inadequate Equipment, California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column
STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column Two male climbers, both 27, were rescued from the Skull Queen climbing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Rock, Fall on Rock, Severed Rope, California, Yosemite Valley
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, SEVERED ROPE California, Yosemite Valley On May 20, 1988, around 1230, Robert Dietmar Kuhn (24) of West Germany was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Stranded, Exposure, Weather, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, California, Yosemite Valley
STRANDED, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE California, Yosemite Valley On the evening of May 26, 1988, Yosemite experienced a cold storm which ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Dehydration, Overequipped, Inexperience on Big Walls, California, Yosemite Valley
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, DEHYDRATION, OVEREQUIPPED, INEXPERIENCE ON BIG WALLS California, Yosemite Valley On June 4, 1988, at 1200, disptach received a call ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Rock, Haul Bags, and Climbers, California, Yosemite Valley
FALLING ROCK, HAUL BAGS, AND CLIMBERS California, Yosemite Valley On June 16, 1988, a climber, Craig Herzog, called dispatch from Curry Security ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Overdue Climbers, Subterfuge, California, Yosemite Valley
OVERDUE CLIMBERS, SUBTERFUGE California, Yosemite Valley On June 25, 1988, Mike Orland contacted Ranger Mike Mayer to report that two of his ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Youth, Rapid Ascent, Acute Mountain Sickness, California, White Mountains
YOUTH, RAPID ASCENT, ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS California, White Mountains On August 2, 1988, William R. Claybaugh, II (39), Martha G. Miller (36) and William ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, Poor Position, California, Yosemite Valley
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, POOR POSITION California, Yosemite Valley On August 12, 1988, Jeff Kasten (25) and Glenn Pinson (23) intended to begin ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Rock, California, King's Canyon, The Hermit
FALLING ROCK California, King’s Canyon, The Hermit A group of four experienced climbers (Doug Mantle, Randy Danta, Tina Stough, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, California, Joshua Tree National Monument
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National Monument On August 20, 1988, Gert Hirst (48), Jim D’...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California, Yosemite Valley
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite Valley On August 16, 1988, Mark Peebles (23) fell while leading the seventh pitch on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Rock, Rappel Device Detached, California, Yosemite Valley
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL DEVICE DETACHED California, Yosemite Valley At 2209 on September 19, 1988, Alksander Lekic, of Celje, Yugoslavia, reported that Dragan ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Fall on Ice, Caught Off Guard—Post Climbing, California, Mount Dana
FALL ON ICE, CAUGHT OFF GUARD—POST CLIMB California, Mount Dana On October 9, 1988, Steve Letts (40) fell about 150 meters after he ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989
Falling Rock, Severed Rope, Stranded, California, Yosemite Valley
FALLING ROCK, SEVERED ROPE, STRANDED California, Yosemite Valley On October 13, 1988, about 1100, Kail Giger (44) and Alex Clapasson were on the sixth ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1989