American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

519 Records

Title Publication Year
The Climb of the Century
The Climb of the Century Rick Sylvester FOR SEVENTEEN YEARS I’d kept as secret as a blabbermouth like me ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Lukpilla Brakk's Western Edge
Lukpilla Brakk’s Western Edge Philip C. Powers, Unaffiliated WALKING OUT after our climb of Gasherbrum II was quite a ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
The Golden Pillar: Spantik
The Golden Pillar: Spantik Anthony Victor Saunders, North London Mountaineering Club IN THE HEART of the Karakoram, in the ancient ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Makalu
Makalu Glenn Porzak SPORTING ONE OF the lowest success ratios (20%) of any of the world’s fourteen 8000-meter peaks, Makalu ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Trisul's Aleš Kunaver Memorial Route
Trisul’s Aleš Kunaver Memorial Route Vlasta Kunaver, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia TRISUL, THE FAMOUS MOUNTAIN with its three summits, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Pumasillo and Mellizos, Cordillera Vilcabamba
Pumasillo and Mellizos, Cordillera Vilcabamba Carlos Buhler THE STEAMING JUNGLES of southeastern Peru seem a strange place to begin an ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Torre Egger's Southeast Face
Torre Egger’s Southeast Face Silvo Karo, Domžale Alpine Club, Yugoslavia ALL THREE OF US, Janez Jeglic, Franc Knez ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger
The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger Elio Orlandi, Club Alpino Italiano HAVING REACHED Fitz Roy National Park on October 15, Maurizio ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
To the Very Summit
To the Very Summit Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano AS MOUNTAIN CLIMBING develops, more and more ethical questions arise ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Every Man for Himself?
Every Man for Himself? David Breashears OVER THE PAST SEVERAL YEARS we have witnessed an unprecedented number of climbers and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Arapiles, Australia
Arapiles, Australia Alison Osius IT HAD BEEN a slow morning, rainy. Wolfgang was lecturing on training, Kurt singing, Didier smoking, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Gumbies on Gurney
THE KICHATNAS are located approximately 45 miles southwest of the Denali massif in the Alaska Range. Although the peaks are all ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Augusta and Logan Twin Pack
Augusta and Logan Twin Pack Don Serl, Alpine Club of Canada WHERE I COME FROM, you’ve climbed a mountain ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Barrill and Dr. Cook
Barrill and Dr. Cook DR. FREDERICK A. COOK in 1906 claimed that he and Edward Barrill, a horse packer from Darby, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Physiological and Neuropsychological Characteristics of World-Class Extreme-Altitude Climbers
Physiological and Neuropsychological Characteristics of World-Class Extreme-Altitude Climbers Oswald Oelz and Marianne Regard, Universitätsspital, Zürich ON MAY 8, 1978, Reinhold ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Beware the Future
Beware the Future Robert Horan IN THE EARLY 1980s, Boulder, Colorado area standards for free climbing began to rise. Now, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Paragliders and Modern Alpinism
Paragliders and Modern Alpinism John Bouchard PARAGLIDERS OR PARAPENTES, as they are known in France, are the most radical development ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
Mountaineering in Greenland 1977–1986
Mountaineering in Greenland 1977–1986 Dolfi Rotovnik and Peter Søndergaard, Dansk Bjergklub THE WORLD’S LARGEST ISLAND, Greenland, fascinates mountaineers throughout ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1987
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1987. For the second year in a row, a new record was set for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Interesting Statistics
Interesting Statistics. In 1987, new all-time records were set for the number of people attempting Mount McKinley: 1978 = 539; 1979 = 533; 1980 = 659; 1981=612; 1982 = 696; 1983 = 709; 1984 = 695; 1985 = 645; 1986 = 755; 1987 = 817. Success Rate: 251 (31%) of these ...
AAJ
Notes
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, New Routes and Interesting Ascents
New Routes and Interesting Ascents. Mount McKinley: No new routes were completed in 1987. The Northwest Buttress was climbed by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Accidents
Accidents. On May 3, a large British group was descending the West Rib. At 14,800 feet, one member slipped and fell 800 feet, ...
AAJ
Accident Reports
1988
Denali National Park and Preserve, 1987 Mountaineering Summary
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1987 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY Mount McKinley Expeditions Climbers Successful Climbers  West Buttress 154 483 165  West Buttress (Guided) 27 204 56  Muldrow 1 3 0  Muldrow (...
AAJ
Notes
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks above Ruth Gorge
Peaks above Ruth Gorge. Sepp Jöchler and I spent two weeks climbing peaks that rise above the Ruth Gorge. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Rooster Comb, Northwest Ridge of P 9680 to P 9220
Rooster Comb, Northwest Ridge of P 9680 to P 9220. Andy Cunningham and I climbed the northwest ridge of P 9680 to an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Broken Tooth, South Face
Broken Tooth South Face. Mugs Stump and Steve Quinlan completed a new route, the second, on the Broken Tooth in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
Broken Tooth, West Ridge
Jack Lewis and I climbed the west ridge of the Broken Tooth, gaining the ridge from the southwest and making ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, West Tripyramid, Northwest Ridge
West Tripyramid, Northwest Ridge. On August 22, Scott Gill, Randy Waitman and I climbed a new route, the northwest ridge of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Silverthrone, Winter Ascent
Silverthrone, Winter Ascent. On March 5, my father Jim Okonek of K2 Aviation flew my wife Diane, Ricardo Ernst and me ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, P 11,091, P 10,300 and P 9810, Eldridge Glacier
P 11,091, P 10,300 and P 9810, Eldridge Glacier. Our expedition was composed of mountain guides: Bruno Musi, Giorgio Passino, Giuseppe Cheney, Eliseo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Deborah, West Face
Deborah, West Face. Andy Reynolds, Keith Eckelmeyer and I made the third ascent of the west face of Deborah. Although ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Kimball, P 10,310 and P 11,288
Mount Kimball, P 10,310 and P 11,288. Mount Kimball was climbed for the third time but by a new route by Jim ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Four Horsemen, the Angel and Other Peaks
Four Horsemen, the Angel and Other Peaks, Revelation Mountains, 1985. In 1985 Dan Heilig, Mal Miller, Greg Collins and I spent from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains; Wrangell, Wrangell Mountains; and McKinley, Northwest Buttress
Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains; Wrangell, Wrangell Mountains; and McKinley, Northwest Buttress. Todd Frankiewicz, Leo Americus and I completed a winter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks above the Matanuska Valley
Peaks Above the Matanuska Valley. Greg Higgins, Tom Choate and I made several climbs from the Matanuska Glacier from July 15 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Valdez Ice Festival
Valdez Ice Festival. The Fifth Annual Valdez Ice-Climbing Festival, sponsored jointly by the American Alpine Club and the Valdez Alpine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks above Harding Icefield, Kenai Fjords National Park
Peaks Above Harding Icefield, Kenai Fjords National Park. Rick Dare, Dallas Virchow, Joe Sears and I spent 13 days on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Blackburn and P 10,565
Blackburn and P 10,565. On May 3, Paul Claus flew a party from Anchorage Community College’s Alaska Wilderness Program to 7300 feet ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, P 9110 and P9105, Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier, Wrangell Mountains
P 9110 and P 9105, Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier, Wrangell Mountains. The Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier and the mountains surrounding it are unique. The upper glacier ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, P 9400, Chitina Glacier, Saint Elias Mountains
P 9400, Chitina Glacier, Saint Elias Mountains. Dan Doak and I were dropped at Huberts Landing at 2000 feet on the Chitina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Pyramid Peak, Saint Elias Mountains
Pyramid Peak, Saint Elias Mountains. On September 11, Dan Doak and I flew to 4200 feet 2½ miles south of Pyramid Peak, which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Wade
Mount Wade. In July Bruce Tickell and I climbed Mount Wade (Boundary Peak 173; 2426 meters, 7960 feet), which is 50 miles east of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather, Southeast Buttress, 1986
Fairweather, Southeast Buttress, 1986. On June 27, 1986, Tad Pfeffer, Linda Sugiyama and I were flown by Mike Ivers to a camp on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, P 5000, Chilkoot Inlet, Coast Range
P 5000, Chilkoot Inlet, Coast Range. John Brainard and I decided to attempt the first known ascent of this beautiful and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Ogden, 1986
Mount Ogden, 1986. In late June 1986 Bruce Tickell and I climbed Mount Ogden (Boundary Peak 86; 2281 meters, 7484 feet). It lies about ten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
International Exchange, Czechoslovakian Exchange
Czechoslovakian Exchange. In the summer of 1987, the American Alpine Club was host to a team of 12 climbers representing the Czechoslovakian ...
AAJ
Notes
1988
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Stuart, Lost Planet Airmen
Mount Stuart, Lost Planet Airmen. Between the northwest face and north ridge on Mount Stuart lie several pitches of superb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Castle Peak, Left Side of North Face
Castle Peak, Left Side of North Face. The north face of Castle Peak features six distinct granitic buttresses. Our climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Big Kangaroo, South Face
Big Kangaroo, South Face. On October 4, Chris Copeland and I climbed the first three pitches of the 1984 Thomas-Kearney route, but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Wallaby, North Face
Wallaby, North Face. On June 24, Andy Selters, Chuck Sink and I completed a four-pitch route up the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1988