American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

506 Records

Title Publication Year
The Shining Wall of Gasherbrum IV
FROM JULY 13 to 20, Austrian Robert Schauer and I from Poland climbed the virgin west face of Gasherbrum IV to the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Cho Oyu's Three-Kilometer-High Face
Cho Oyu’s Three-Kilometer-High Face Andrzej Zawada, Polski Zwiazek Alpinizmu THE CLIMBING action began on January 4 when Berbeka and Pawlikowski ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Quo Vadis
Quo Vadis Henri Sigayret, Groupe de Haute Montagne THE NUMBER 26,247; does this mean anything to you? No? I must correct ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Lagunak Ridge, Ama Dablam
Lagunak Ridge, Ama Dablam Randy Harrington WE HAD originally planned on having six expedition members. One, however, was a no-show ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Snow Leopards on Pik Pobedy
Snow Leopards on Pik Pobedy Randall M. Starrett II IN LATE JULY OF 1985,I set out with my partner, William ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
The Ulugh Muztagh
The Ulugh Muztagh Robert H. Bates FOR ME THE LONG quest began in 1966 on the slopes of Mount Russell in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Mount Thor: Direct West Face
Mount Thor: Direct West Face Eric Brand MOUNT THOR is located 16 miles above the Arctic Circle in the Weasel Valley ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
The Japanese Exchange
The Japanese Exchange Rosamond C. Andrews NEW YORK TO Anchorage to Seoul and back to Tokyo is the cheap way ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Hunter's Diamond Arête
Hunter’s Diamond Arête Jack Tackle THE WHOLE DAY had been cold, stormy and very unproductive. Three hundred feet ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Denali on One Leg
Denali on One Leg Matthew Kerns TALKEETNA’S MAIN STREET was awash with puddles of winter run-off when the Tripod ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Hesperus
Hesperus Stephen Spalding, Mountaineering Club of Alaska MOUNT HESPERUS shone bold and beautiful in the 1983 Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking Calendar, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
North Pillar of North Twin
WARM LIMESTONE… Fires smearing on small rugosities… hands sunk into a perfect over-vertical crack… pleasant evenings spent brewing up on ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Anqosh Face of Huascarán
Anqosh Face of Huascarán Carlos Buhler I LOOKED OUT ACROSS the upper Llanganuco valley on a stormy day in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Mala Pata in the Paine Towers, Chile
Mala Pata in the Paine Towers, Chile Craig Peer, D.O.C.C. AS US SCOTTY’S MINIBUS turns the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Fast and Light on Fitz Roy
Fast and Light on Fitz Roy Galen A. Rowell In OCTOBER, 1985 Michael Graber, David Wilson, and I drove a thousand ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre Alan Kearney THE MORNING of December 23 heralded the start of our third day on the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Early American Ascents in the Andes, 1854-1950
Early American Ascents in the Andes, 1854-1950 Evelio Echevarria THERE SEEMS TO exist no complete survey of American mountain ascents ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Rock Protection in the 1980s
Rock Protection in the 1980s William Supple AS THE QUEST TO climb the “desperates” continues, modern-day climbers are continually searching ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
Operation Everest II
Operation Everest II Charles S. Houston, M.D. UNFORTUNATELY SOON AFTER they left the summit and began the climb to 30,000 ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
The Denali Medical Research Project, 1982-85
The Denali Medical Research Project, 1982-85 Peter H. Hackett, M.D., Robert C. Roach, M.S., Robert B. Schoene, M....
AAJ
Feature Article
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1985
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1985. There were no winter ascents of Mount McKinley or adjacent peaks during 1985. A ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve 1985 Mountaineering Summary
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1985 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY Mount McKinley Expeditions Climbers Successful Climbers  West Buttress 104 311 153  West Buttress (Guided) 25 200 116  Muldrow Glacier 6 15 9  ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, West Buttress Attempt
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1985 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARY Mount McKinley Expeditions Climbers Successful Climbers  West Buttress 104 311 153  West Buttress (Guided) 25 200 116  Muldrow Glacier 6 15 9  ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Moose's Tooth Attempt and Barrille, 1984
Moose’s Tooth Attempt and Barrille, 1984, In April 1984, Dave Jones and I spent ten days in the Ruth Gorge. We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Bear's Tooth, East Face Attempt
Bear’s Tooth, East Face Attempt. Doug Klewin and I on June 15 attempted the east face of the Bear’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, McGinnis Peak, East Face, Hayes Range
McGinnis Peak, East Face, Hayes Range. “Cutthroat Couloir” forms the right comer of the east face of McGinnis Peak with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Middle Triple Peak Attempt, P 8055 and P 6000, Kichatna Mountains
Middle Triple Peak Attempt, P 8055 and P 6000, Kichatna Mountains. Chuck Comstock, John Harpole and I were landed on July 5 by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks above the Dall Glacier
Peaks above the Dall Glacier. From July 22 to August 1 Donald Davis and I, with Brian and Diane Okonek acting as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Redoubt
Mount Redoubt. Bob Gerhard, Larry Van Slyke, Mark Skok and I had planned a winter ascent of Mount Redoubt (3108 meters, 10,197 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Iliamna, Winter Ascent
Iliamna, Winter Ascent. After landing us on the tricky Tuxedni Glacier, Lowell Thomas, Jr. said that he would take no ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Phillip Smith Mountains, Brooks Range
Philip Smith Mountains, Brooks Range. Ellen Wood, Erich Hinze, Terry Rollerson, Evelyn Feller and I spent two weeks in August ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, P 6148, P 6206, P 6313, P 6339, P 6650, P 6985, P 7080, P 7111, P 7234, P7327, P 7500, P 7689, Chugach Mountains
P 6148, P 6206, P 6313, P 6339, P 6650, P 6985, P 7080, P 7111, P 7234, P7327, P 7500, P 7689, Chugach Mountains. On July 16, I was flown into ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, P 7205, P 8205, Wrangell Mountains
P 7205 and P 8205, Wrangell Mountains. Bob Jacobs, Dave Henning, Jack Simmonds and I flew to the Glacier Creek landing area ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Bona, Winter Ascent
Bona, Winter Ascent. Alaskans Dave Pahlke, Rich Burton, Paul Denke- walter and I made the first winter ascent of Mount ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias, South Ridge Attempt
St. Elias, South Ridge Attempt. Willi Hersman, Ray Koleser, Suzy Noldan and I arrived in Yakutat on May 2 in pouring ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, Haydon Peak Correction
Haydon Peak Correction. On page 183 of A.A.J., 1985 Roach stated that he believed Barbara Stitt to have been the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Alaska, American-Japanese Climbing Exchange, Part I in Alaska
American-Japanese Climbing Exchange, Part I in Alaska. In February four Japanese came to Alaska, at the invitation of the Alaska ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Mount Redoubt, Mount Spickard, Mad Eagle Peak, North Cascades
Mount Redoubt, Mount Spickard, Mad Eagle Peak, North Cascades. On the north side of Mount Redoubt opposite the northeast-face route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Perdition Peak, Northeast Rib
Perdition Peak, Northeast Rib. The most dramatic line on Backbone ridge, this spine shoots arrow-straight from the Perdition Glacier to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Perdition Peak, North Ridge
Perdition Peak, North Ridge. From the distance, this appeared as a clean line, but close inspection revealed the northeast rib ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Bear Mountain, North Buttress, First Free Ascent
Bear Mountain, North Buttress, First Free Ascent. On July 20 and 21, Lowell Skoog and I climbed the north buttress of Bear ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Mount Johannesburg, Northeast Face
Mount Johannesburg, Northeast Face. On December 22, John Stoddard and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of Mount ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Chimney Rock, First Winter Ascent
Chimney Rock, First Winter Ascent. The first week of winter found the Cascades under the influence of steady high pressure. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, The Triplets
The Triplets. In early November Jim Nelson and I climbed the left gully on the north face of the Triplets ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Stuart Range
Stuart Range. In February, Kit Lewis and Jim Nelson made the first winter ascent of their Girth Pillar route. Certainly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Index Town Wall, Lookout Point
Index Town Wall, Lookout Point. On March 14, Dan Klimke, Gary Buck- ham and I completed the first ascent of Steel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Prusik Peak, 1984
Prusik Peak, 1984. My brother Ted, Dan Nordstrom and I made a free climb west of the Stanley-Burgner route on August 13, 1984. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, Mount Russell, West Face
Mount Russell, West Face. Alan Kouzmanoff and I climbed a new route on this face in June. It starts in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, Dragon Peak, Northwest Ridge
Dragon Peak, Northwest Ridge. In June, Claude Fiddler and I climbed the left of two arêtes on the northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986
North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, New Routes on Grand Sentinel and North Dome, Kings' Canyon National Park
New Routes on Grand Sentinel and North Dome, Kings’ Canyon National Park. In July, Bruce Bourassa and I climbed Cosmopolis, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1986