American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

517 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, Canada, British Columbia–Coast Range, Pointer Peak, East Buttress
Pointer Peak, East Buttress. Pointer Peak, the Matterhorn of the White - mantle Range southeast of Mount Waddington, had only ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Selkirks, East Peak of the Gothics, Southwest Face, Adamant Peaks
East Peak of the Gothics, Southwest Face, Adamant Peaks, Northern Selkirks. Fred Beckey, Jan Schwarzburg and I made the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Fay, East Face
Mount Fay, East Face. In early March, after waiting for the sun to leave the east face of Mount Fay, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Alberta, Northeast Ridge
Mount Alberta, Northeast Ridge. Kevin Swigert and I climbed the northeast ridge of Mount Alberta on August 10 and 11. The climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Mount Thor, West Face
Mount Thor, West Face. A Japanese expedition climbed a route on the 4500-foot-high west face of Mount Thor. The face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Ice Climbing in Canada
Ice Climbing in Canada. During the first part of my trip to North America, which began on March 14, I first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Greenland, Staunings Alper
Staunings Alper. An expedition from Rome climbed in the Staunings Alper at 72° north latitude. Despite bad weather, they made ten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Greenland, Mont Forel Attempt, East Greenland
Mont Forel Attempt, East Greenland. Our objective was to make a lightweight ski approach, using previously established, air-dropped depots of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Greenland, Kristian Gletscher Area, Schweizerland, East Greenland
Kristian Gletscher Area, Schweizerland, East Greenland. In June, an international expedition left for East Greenland. It was composed of ten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
North America, Greenland, Traverse of Greenland
Traverse of Greenland. On September 11 Jaroslav Pavlícek, Miroslav Jakes and I flew from Reykjavik, Iceland to Kulusuk, Greenland to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
Europe, France, Chamonix, Rassemblement International d' Alpinisme de Haut Niveau
Rassemblement International d’Alpinisme de Haut Niveau. The Rassemblement was held from July 8 to 21 at the Ecole Nationale de Ski ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Venezuela, Pico Bolívar, Northwest Buttress
Pico Bolívar, Northwest Buttress. On February 5, 1983, Jaime Bautista, of the Club Andino Venezolano, made the first ascent of the “...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Este, East Face and Ocshapalca, South Face, Solo
Huandoy Este, East Face and Ocshapalca, South Face, Solo. In July, I made two solo ascents. The first, the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy, North Face, and Chacraraju, South Face, Solo
Huandoy, North Face, and Chacraraju, South Face, Solo. After acclimatization and an attempt on Ocshapalca frustrated by bad weather from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, Canine Ascent
Huascarán Norte, Canine Ascent. From August 27 to 30, José Ignacio Ramírez and I ascended Huascarán Norte via the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Oeste
Chacraraju Oeste. Swiss Xaver Bongard, Pierre-Alain Romagnoli, Frenchman Philippe Edouard Beaud and I set out at four A.M. on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju, South Face Attempt
Chacraraju, South Face Attempt. On August 21 Alberto García and Francisco José Escolar of Spain and I as guide climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju, Ski Descent
Artesonraju, Ski Descent. The ski descent expedition to Artesonraju consisted of Peter Werschkul, Jack Leaven, Doug Greene and me. In 1978 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, 1984
Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, 1984. Aniela Tukoiszewsa and Ewa Szczesniar from Poland climbed Handoy Norte by its east ridge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huantsán, Western Summit and Other Peaks
Huantsán, Western Summit and Other Peaks. In July John Tarver and Kevin Starr climbed to the western summit of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Rurec and Other Ascents
Rurec and Other Ascents. Our expedition of the National Polytechnical School, Quito, took place between July 13 and 27. Our primary objective ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupajá, Sarapo and Other Peaks; Siula Grande West Face Attempt
Yerupajá, Sarapo and other Peaks; Siula Grande West Face Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. Piet-Jan Bindt, Ger Friele, Egbert Veen and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupajá, First Completely Peruvian Ascent
Yerupajá, First Completely Peruvian Ascent. On July 8 Rodrigo Callupe, Victorino Basilio, Félix Vicencio, Magno Camones, Alberto Simangas and Mario ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca Chico and Ninashanca
Jirishanca Chico and Ninashanca. Italians, E. Rosso, G. Lanza and E. Contini, climbed the southeast face of Jirishanca Chico (5427 meters, 17,805 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Rasac Central, West Spur
Rasac Central, West Spur. A. Antola, F. Ferraresi and A. Mantero made a new route, the west spur of Rasac ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Nevado Rasac, East Face Variant
NevadoRasac, East Face Variant. Ecuadorians F. Espinoza, M. Purúncajas and H. Torres, from Ambato, made on August 3 a variant ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, El Toro, East Face
El Toro, East Face. The east face of El Toro was climbed by Swiss, who reached the summit on June 20. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Huayhuash Traverse Attempt
Huayhuash Traverse Attempt. A very strong French team of leader René Desmaison, Michel Arizzi, Xaxier Chappaz, René Ghilini, Jacques Fouque ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Puscanturpa Norte, North Face
Puscanturpa Norte, North Face. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, leader, Corrado Brustia, Felice Boselli, Osvaldo Antonietti, Silvio Mondinelli, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Rosario Norte, Sarapo Oeste, Ancocancha Este and Other Peaks
Rosario Norte, Sarapo Oeste, Ancocancha Este and Other Peaks. On July 20 Peter Leeming, Cedric Marsh, William Patterson and I packed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru, Salcantay, East and South Ridges, 1983
Salcantay, East and South Ridges, 1983. Yugoslavs arrived at Base Camp south of Salcantay on June 7, 1983. On June 12 Tine Bucik, Slavko ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru, Colque Cruz Group, Cordillera Vilcanota
Colque Cruz Group, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expediton from Nürnberg was composed of Werner Scharl, leader, K. Scharl, R. Ilg, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Peru, Ausangate, Northwest Face Attempt, Cordillera Vilcanota, 1982
Ausangate, Northwest Face Attempt, Cordillera Vilcanota, 1982. On pages 206 and 208 of A.A.J., 1984, an ascent of Ausangate’s northwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental
Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental. My wife Ria and I were in the field from August 3 to September 14. We first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Bolivia, Illimani, West Ridge, Illampu, Northwest Face, Huayna Potosí, West Face
Illimani, West Ridge, Illampu, Northwest Face, Huayna Potosí, West Face. Janez Zupanz and I spent two months in the Cordillera ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Bolivia, History and Relative Heights of Tiquimani's Three Peaks
History and Relative Heights of Tiquimani’s Three Peaks. Tiquimani, one of the finest peaks in the Cordillera Real, has ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Chile–Northern Andes, Cerro Doña Inés, Pre-Columbian Ascents
Cerro Doña Inés, Pre-Columbian Ascents. Although it had been ascended several times in the last few decades, no ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Chile–Northern Andes, Volcán Copiapó, Pre-Columbian and Modern Ascents
Volcán Copiapó, pre-Columbian and Modem Ascents. This prominent volcano (6072 meters or 19,922 feet) is located on the Chilean-Argentinian border and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Chile–Central Andes, Tupungato and Tupungatito, First Winter Ascents
Tupungato and Tupungatito, First Winter Ascents. The Spanish mountain guide and ski instructor at Farellones, Chile, Fernando Garrido, had attempted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Argentina–Northern Andes, Cerro de las Cuevas, Ancient and Modern Ascents
Cerro de las Cuevas. Ancient and Modern Ascents. Searching for the legendary Inca “city” of Aconquija, an expedition of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Argentina–Northern Andes, Nevado Cajón, Pre-Columbian and Modern Ascents
Nevado Cajón, Pre-Columbian and Modern Ascents. The “Momia de Los Quilmes” was possibly an Inca mummy found between 1920 and 1924 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Argentina–Northern Andes, Luracatao
Luracatao. The volcanic peak of Luracatao (5850 meters, 19,193 feet) was climbed on August 19 by Luis Aguilar and Cristián Vitry, of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Argentina–Central Andes, Aconcagua, First Female Ascent of the South Face
Aconcagua, First Female Ascent of the South Face. In January my wife Titoune and I climbed the south face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Argentina–Central Andes, Aconcagua, Normal Route, Youngest Person to Ascend
Aconcagua, Normal Route, Youngest Person to Ascend. On February 14, Tony Martin, Berkeley Tilton, Richard Garrett, and Ron Garrett reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Argentina–Central Andes, Aconcagua, South Face
Aconcagua, South Face. Sharon Wood and I have just returned from what strikes us as an extraordinary experience. We climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Argentina–Central Andes, Cerro Bonete
Aconcagua, South Face. The Polish woman, Wanda Rutkiewicz, along with the Swiss Stéphane Schaffter succeeded in making the ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South America, Argentina–Central Andes, Maipo, First Ski Ascent
Cerro Bonete. Seven mountaineers from Mendoza and Buenos Aires explored and climbed in the area forming the provincial boundaries between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
Mountaineering Club of Alaska
Maipo, First Ski Ascent. The route for this, one of the very few ski ascents accomplished in the Andes, started ...
AAJ
Club Activities
1985
South America, Argentina–Central Andes, Cerro Pabellón, Second Ascent
Cerro Pabellón, Second Ascent. As a final celebration of a climbing course given during February by the Club Andinista ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985
South American, Chilean–Argentine Patagonia, Fitz Roy, North Face
Fitz Roy, North Face. A Polish expedition climbed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy between the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1985