American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

483 Records

Title Publication Year
"Oxygenless" Climbs and Barometric Pressure
“Oxygenless” Climbs and Barometric Pressure John B. West, M.D., Ph.D.* “OXYGENLESS” CLIMBS of 8000-meter peaks are very much ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Preliminary High Latitude Center Study Report, Mount McKinley (Denali)
Preliminary High Latitude CenterStudy Report, Mount McKinley (Denali) Rau, D., M.D., Hackett, P., M.D., Mills, W., MD., Walberg, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Stoves for Expedition Use
Stoves for Expedition Use Richard Wilcox WHEN WELL-KNOWN French climber, Yves Astier wrote Adams Carter asking him what high-altitude climbers ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
East Face of Mount Huntington
East Face of Mount Huntington Robb Kimbrough, Colorado EVEN THE BAD WEATHER doesn’t dampen our enthusiasm as John Tuckey ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley and Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1983
Mount McKinley and Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1983. The two climbers successfully reached the top of a difficult ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Winter Solo Ascent and Tragedy, 1984
Mount McKinley, Winter Solo Ascent and Tragedy, 1984. The press reports a winter solo ascent of McKinley on February 12, 1984 by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Northwest Buttress, Second Ascent, 1982
Mount McKinley, Northwest Buttress, Second Ascent, 1982. Alan Novey, David Shrimpton, John Rehmer, Jim Snyder, John Stolpman and I skied up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Second Ascent of the Canadian Route
Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Second Ascent of the Canadian Route. On May 5, Rick Wyatt, Evelyn Lees, Kelly McKean and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Canadian Route Variation
Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Canadian Route Variation. In late May Tim Gage, 17-year-old Markus Hutnak and I returned to attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker, Winter Ascent
Foraker, Winter Ascent. Brian Okonek, Roger Cowles and Dave Johnson made the second winter ascent of Foraker, climbing from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, North Buttress
Mount Hunter, North Buttress. Finally, the north buttress has been climbed all the way to the summit. It was Doug ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt, and West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Buttress
Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt, and West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Buttress. Ned Lewis and I made an attempt to climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, West Ridge via the Northwest Spur
Mount Hunter, West Ridge via the Northwest Spur. On the evening of June 1 Boudewijn, Ronald Binnebösz, Ton Hoenevelt, Frans ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, P 10,6000, Near Mount Hunter
P 10,600, Near Mount Hunter. On April 30 Stephen Mascioli and I looked up nearly 4000 feet to P 10,600, which forms the western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mooses Tooth
Mooses Tooth. On April 27, members of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska climbed the steep German route of the Mooses Tooth ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, P 11,300, West Face, West Fork of Ruth Glacier
P 11,300, West Face, West Fork of Ruth Glacier. From May 6 to 9, John Bauman and I climbed the 3600-foot-high west face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Mather
Mount Mather. On March 29 Steve Hollenhorst and I climbed the northeast spur of Mount Mather (12,123 feet) in Denali National Park ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hayes, Southwest Face
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face. After climbing the east ridge of Deborah, Carl Tobin and I hauled loads on top-heavy, overloaded ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Spurr
Mount Spurr. Doug Van Etten, Skip King and I made a winter ascent of Mount Spurr (3566 meters, 11,070 feet) on March 7. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, P 6225 and Sinclair Mountain, East of Lynn Canal
P 6225 and Sinclair Mountain, East of Lynn Canal. Dana van Burgh and I made the first ascent of P 6225, one ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather, 1982
Fairweather, 1982. At dawn of July 27, 1982 Dick Sletten, Warren Wilder and I attained the summit of Fairweather (4663 meters, 15,300 feet). It was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Bertha Northeast Ridge
Mount Bertha, Northeast Ridge. On July 14 Kevin Haberl, Peter Mair, Bruce Blackwell and I reached the summit of Mount Bertha (3110 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mendenhall Towers Traverse
Mendenhall Towers Traverse. In August 1982 Dick Ellesworth and Bruce Lulla traversed all the Mendenhall Towers from west to east in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Michael's Sword, Second Ascent and Devil's Paw Attempt, Juneau Icefield
Michael’s Sword, Second Ascent and Devil’s Paw Attempt, Juneau Icefield. On June 28, Dave Dahl and I flew by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Nooksack Tower, Winter Ascent
Nooksack Tower, Winter Ascent. Well, “the Devil had fallen,” but not the Demon. Nooksack Tower awaited a winter ascent. Dan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Grey Beard, North Face
Grey Beard, North Face. On a one-day excursion on May 9, my brother Carl and I climbed this face. The route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Dragontail, Northwest Face
Dragontail, Northwest Face. In early April John Wasson and I climbed a route on Dragontail to the right of Serpentine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Stuart Range
Stuart Range. Several new routes were climbed in the Stuart Range. The west face of Colchuck Balanced Rock (Grade IV, 5.10, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Fernow, North Face Ice Apron Variation
Fernow, North Face Ice Apron Variation. The north face of Femow was climbed rather indirectly in 1961 by the Prater-Wickwire party, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Static Slab, Mount Stickney Area
Static Slab, Mount Stickney Area. On May 18 Dave Johnson, Dave Pickard and I made the first ascent of the Static ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Climbs in Snow Creek Area, 1982
Climbs in Snow Creek Area, 1982. Jim Yoder did several new routes in the Leavenworth area. Perhaps the most notable was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Bunnell Point—Northwest Face
Bunnell Point—Northwest Face. This wide, smooth face rises above the Merced River at the east end of Little Yosemite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Whitney Portal Buttress, Clouds
Whitney Portal Buttress, Clouds. Seen from below, Whitney Portal Buttress is a large slab divided into two halves by a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Chiquito Ridge, Eagle Beaks Area
Chiquito Ridge, Eagle Beaks Area. This indistinct cliff band is located on the west side of Chiquito Ridge northwest of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Incinerator, Rock Creek Area, Stun Them with Science
The Incinerator, Rock Creek Area, Stun Them With Science. This formation—resembling a sawdust incinerator in lumber mills—lies above ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Incinerator, Ruta de Fruta
The Incinerator, Ruta de Fruta. In October 1982 Simon King and I climbed this route following the obvious crack in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Castle Rocks, The Gargoyle Route
Castle Rocks, The Gargoyle Route. When you approach Castle Rocks via Buckeye Campground, the sweeping 900-foot west face of a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Stonehouse Buttress, Milky Way Chimney
Stonehouse Buttress, Milky Way Chimney. In May, 1980 Eve Laeger and I climbed this A3 Beckey route free. IV, 5.10+ . Herb Laeger, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Obelisk, Dihedral Route
The Obelisk, Dihedral Route. On the steep north face, right of the “Hands of Fate” route (A.A.J., 1977) is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Watchtower, Timex and Nightwatch
The Watchtower, Timex and Nightwatch. On August 15 Dick Saum, Steve Tucker and I climbed “Timex,” a fine free route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Tranquility Dome, Sierra National Forest
Tranquility Dome, Sierra National Forest. In August Mark Blanchard, Fremont Bainbridge and I climbed a six-pitch route on the central ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
Bubbs Creek Wall, Aquaman
Viewing the massive south-facing Bubbs Creek Wall, one will see two obvious continuous crack systems on the right (east) side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Donnell Reservoir, Moonshadow, Stanislaus National Forest
Donnell Reservoir, Moonshadow, Stanislaus National Forest. A 1500-foot wall lies on the north side of Donnell Reservoir just off Highway 108. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Wheeler Crest, Stormy Petrel Route
Wheeler Crest, Stormy Petrel Route. Quite prominent among the line of granitic walls and towers between the desert floor and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
Lover's Leap Access Report
Lover's Leap Access Report. Significant changes have taken place at the Lover’s Leap climbing area. Local property owners, the ...
AAJ
Notes
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Voyager Rock, Space Probe
Voyager Rock, Space Probe. This is the first dome east of the southern portion of Courtright Reservoir. A multi-crowned pine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Locke Rock, Oktoberfest
Locke Rock, Oktoberfest. This will probably be the prettiest face you see upstream from Leopold Dome. Viewed from Dusy Creek, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Tyndall, Direct East Face
Mount Tyndall, Direct East Face. In September Steve Brewer, David Wil son and I made the first ascent of this 1500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Aurora
El Capitan, Aurora. In August 1981 Peter Mayfield and I climbed a new route left of Tangerine Trip. We used the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, California—Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Heart of Darkness
El Capitan, Heart of Darkness. In August 1982 Peter Mayfield, Auggie Klein and I attempted a new route taking the thin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984