American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

483 Records

Title Publication Year
Kangshung Face of Everest
Kangshung Face of Everest James D. Morrissey, M.D. OCTOBER 8, 1983—It was a day of patient dread and wild exultation, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
An Attempt on Everest's West Ridge from Tibet
An Attempt on Everest’s West Ridge from Tibet Galen A. Rowell IN MARCH 1983 I traveled through Tibet to Mount ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Kanchenjunga Solo
Kanchenjunga Solo PIERRE Beghin, Groupe de Haute Montagne ON MY RETURN FROM JANNU in November 1982, I obtained permission to climb ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Shisha Pangma— First American Ascent
Shisha Pangma—First American Ascent Glenn Porzak FOR YEARS SHISHA PANGMA (Xixabangma)* was possibly the most remote of the world’...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Kwangde's North Face in Winter
Kwangde’s North Face in Winter David Breashears I’M STUNNED DURING A PAUSE to rest while chopping a platform ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Lobsang Spire
Lobsang Spire Douglas Scott, Alpine Climbing Group THE PROBLEM with Himalayan holidays is that very little actual climbing takes place. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Gasherbrum II and Hidden Peak — New Routes
ORIGINALLY THE ALEX MACINTYRE Memorial Expedition was to have had three members. The tragic death of Alex on Annapurna’s ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Celestial Peak
Celestial Peak Edward E. Vaill when ALLEN STECK AND I first saw Celestial Peak in October 1981, we vowed to return ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Cayesh from the East
Cayesh from the East Mark Richey In THE SOUTHERN REGION of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, a razor-edged sword of ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
A Peruvian Eiger — Yerupajá Chico's East Face
A Peruvian Eiger—Yerupajá Chico’s East Face Stéphane Schaffter, Mountain Guide, Switzerland IN 1957, LIKE OTHER LATER climbers, Toni ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Innocents in Peru
Innocents in Peru Yves Laforest, Canada we COMPLETED A TEAM of six climbers two weeks before departure: five from the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Fitz Roy's West Face
Fitz Roy’s West Face Robert Gálfy, lames, Slovak Mountaineering Association Translated by Tamara Koricanska CZECHOSLOVAKIAN climbers led by ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
A Ribbon on Edge — Deborah's East Ridge
A Ribbon on Edge — Deborah’s East Ridge Roger Mear, Alpine Climbing Group THERE ARE TWO mountains in Alaska that ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Denali Diamond
Denali Diamond Bryan Becker FROM MAY 24 TO JUNE 10 Rolf Graage and I put up a new route on the south ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Foraker's Highway of Diamonds
Foraker’s Highway of Diamonds Peter Metcalf IT WAS THE EASE with which I accepted the realization, not the realization ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Alaskan Kayak Mountaineering
Alaskan Kayak Mountaineering Walter R Gove wITH PRESENT TECHNOLOGY and techniques and given sufficient time and willingness to accept risks, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Absolute Zero on Longs Peak
Absolute Zero on Longs Peak Mark Wilford IN MARCH OF 1980, inspired by who knows what Bonatti, Messner or Kor epic, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
The Path of The Master — Tuolumne
The Path of The Master—Tuolumne Alan Nelson TUOLUMNE IS A spiritual place. The blue skies, pine-scented air, and mountain ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Commuters on Chiquito Dome
Commuters on Chiquito Dome Thomas Higgins MY ENJOYMENT OF CLIMBING begins long before the climb. I tingle as I think ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
The Unclimbable Summits?
The Unclimbable Summits? David Kozak RECENTLY AS I WAS READING through the Base Camp section of Climbing magazine I came ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
"Oxygenless" Climbs and Barometric Pressure
“Oxygenless” Climbs and Barometric Pressure John B. West, M.D., Ph.D.* “OXYGENLESS” CLIMBS of 8000-meter peaks are very much ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Preliminary High Latitude Center Study Report, Mount McKinley (Denali)
Preliminary High Latitude CenterStudy Report, Mount McKinley (Denali) Rau, D., M.D., Hackett, P., M.D., Mills, W., MD., Walberg, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
Stoves for Expedition Use
Stoves for Expedition Use Richard Wilcox WHEN WELL-KNOWN French climber, Yves Astier wrote Adams Carter asking him what high-altitude climbers ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
East Face of Mount Huntington
East Face of Mount Huntington Robb Kimbrough, Colorado EVEN THE BAD WEATHER doesn’t dampen our enthusiasm as John Tuckey ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley and Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1983
Mount McKinley and Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1983. The two climbers successfully reached the top of a difficult ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Winter Solo Ascent and Tragedy, 1984
Mount McKinley, Winter Solo Ascent and Tragedy, 1984. The press reports a winter solo ascent of McKinley on February 12, 1984 by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Northwest Buttress, Second Ascent, 1982
Mount McKinley, Northwest Buttress, Second Ascent, 1982. Alan Novey, David Shrimpton, John Rehmer, Jim Snyder, John Stolpman and I skied up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Second Ascent of the Canadian Route
Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Second Ascent of the Canadian Route. On May 5, Rick Wyatt, Evelyn Lees, Kelly McKean and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Canadian Route Variation
Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Canadian Route Variation. In late May Tim Gage, 17-year-old Markus Hutnak and I returned to attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker, Winter Ascent
Foraker, Winter Ascent. Brian Okonek, Roger Cowles and Dave Johnson made the second winter ascent of Foraker, climbing from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, North Buttress
Mount Hunter, North Buttress. Finally, the north buttress has been climbed all the way to the summit. It was Doug ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt, and West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Buttress
Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt, and West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Buttress. Ned Lewis and I made an attempt to climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, West Ridge via the Northwest Spur
Mount Hunter, West Ridge via the Northwest Spur. On the evening of June 1 Boudewijn, Ronald Binnebösz, Ton Hoenevelt, Frans ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, P 10,6000, Near Mount Hunter
P 10,600, Near Mount Hunter. On April 30 Stephen Mascioli and I looked up nearly 4000 feet to P 10,600, which forms the western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mooses Tooth
Mooses Tooth. On April 27, members of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska climbed the steep German route of the Mooses Tooth ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, P 11,300, West Face, West Fork of Ruth Glacier
P 11,300, West Face, West Fork of Ruth Glacier. From May 6 to 9, John Bauman and I climbed the 3600-foot-high west face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Mather
Mount Mather. On March 29 Steve Hollenhorst and I climbed the northeast spur of Mount Mather (12,123 feet) in Denali National Park ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hayes, Southwest Face
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face. After climbing the east ridge of Deborah, Carl Tobin and I hauled loads on top-heavy, overloaded ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Spurr
Mount Spurr. Doug Van Etten, Skip King and I made a winter ascent of Mount Spurr (3566 meters, 11,070 feet) on March 7. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, P 6225 and Sinclair Mountain, East of Lynn Canal
P 6225 and Sinclair Mountain, East of Lynn Canal. Dana van Burgh and I made the first ascent of P 6225, one ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather, 1982
Fairweather, 1982. At dawn of July 27, 1982 Dick Sletten, Warren Wilder and I attained the summit of Fairweather (4663 meters, 15,300 feet). It was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Bertha Northeast Ridge
Mount Bertha, Northeast Ridge. On July 14 Kevin Haberl, Peter Mair, Bruce Blackwell and I reached the summit of Mount Bertha (3110 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Mendenhall Towers Traverse
Mendenhall Towers Traverse. In August 1982 Dick Ellesworth and Bruce Lulla traversed all the Mendenhall Towers from west to east in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Alaska, Michael's Sword, Second Ascent and Devil's Paw Attempt, Juneau Icefield
Michael’s Sword, Second Ascent and Devil’s Paw Attempt, Juneau Icefield. On June 28, Dave Dahl and I flew by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Nooksack Tower, Winter Ascent
Nooksack Tower, Winter Ascent. Well, “the Devil had fallen,” but not the Demon. Nooksack Tower awaited a winter ascent. Dan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Grey Beard, North Face
Grey Beard, North Face. On a one-day excursion on May 9, my brother Carl and I climbed this face. The route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Dragontail, Northwest Face
Dragontail, Northwest Face. In early April John Wasson and I climbed a route on Dragontail to the right of Serpentine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Stuart Range
Stuart Range. Several new routes were climbed in the Stuart Range. The west face of Colchuck Balanced Rock (Grade IV, 5.10, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Fernow, North Face Ice Apron Variation
Fernow, North Face Ice Apron Variation. The north face of Femow was climbed rather indirectly in 1961 by the Prater-Wickwire party, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Static Slab, Mount Stickney Area
Static Slab, Mount Stickney Area. On May 18 Dave Johnson, Dave Pickard and I made the first ascent of the Static ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1984