American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

481 Records

Title Publication Year
Once Around Everest
Once Around Everest Ned Gillette EVEREST, the “third pole”, is still the ultimate lodestone for most mountaineers. While climbers are ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
The Great Couloir on Everest
The Great Couloir on Everest James Wickwire WITH THE DECISION of the People’s Republic of China in 1979 to open ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Cholatse
Cholatse Galen A. Rowell IN APRIL 1982 while the first Russian expedition was climbing Mount Everest from Nepal with a cast ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Everest's Northeast Ridge
Everest’s Northeast Ridge Christian Bonington THE EXPEDITION was one of the most arduous any of us had ever been ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
South Ridge of Ama Dablam
South Ridge of Ama Dablam Sue Giller WHEN WOMEN are on a mountain, it always snows.” This was not the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Shishapangma's Southwest Face
Shishapangma’s Southwest Face Douglas Scott, Alpine Climbing Group SHISHAPANGMA LIES a hundred miles west-northwest of Everest to the north ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Gongga Shan—Minya Konka Revisited
Gongga Shan— Minya Konka Revisited Douglas Kelley and Joseph E. Murphy ON OCTOBER 3, 1982 Dana Coffield and Douglas Kelley reached the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Jiazi
Jiazi Richard M. Nolting THE WEST FACE of Jiazi rose into veiw as I made my way across boulders to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
High-Altitude Archeology and Andean Mountain Gods
High-Altitude Archeology and Andean Mountain Gods Johan Reinhard ANTHROPOLOGISTS who climb normally must wait for free time to get into ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Czechoslovaks in the Cordillera Huayhuash
Czechoslovaks in the Cordillera Huayhuash Jaromír Stejskal, Czechoslovakia OUR SIX-MAN PARTY from Czechoslovakia visited the Cordillera Huayhuash in June. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Taulliraju's Southwest Face
Taulliraju’s Southwest Face Michael A. Fowler, Alpine Climbing Group OUR TEAM WAS composed of Michael B. Morrison, Christopher Watts, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Kichatna Spire's East Face
Kichatna Spire’s East Face Scott Woolums WE COULD HEAR THE roar of powder avalanches coming. Seconds later they would ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Kichatna Spire: East Face Prow
Kichatna Spire: East Face Prow Michael Graber TUCKED AWAY in a comer of the Alaskan Range lies a maze of ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Alone on Denali's South Face
Alone on Denali’s South Face Mark Hesse I WAS AT AN IMPASSE. Seated on my pack with my elbows ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Cassin Ridge in Winter
Cassin Ridge in Winter Michael Young, Colorado Outward Bound School OUR INTENT had been to climb Mount Logan in winter. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Mount Blackburn's East Ridge
Mount Blackburn’s East Ridge Craig Gaskill ON MAY 21, 1982, we stood on the summit of Mount Blackburn. The mountain rises ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
"The World's Worst Weather"
“The World’s Worst Weather” Alan A. Smith* MOUNT WASHINGTON, in New Hampshire, is said by many to have “the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Letter to the Editor—Climbing Ethics
Letter to the Editor- Climbing Ethics Thomas Higgins IN THE 1982 ISSUE of the American Alpine Journal, Bruce Morris wrote a ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
Scientific Notes—Classification of High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage (HARH)
Classification of High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage (HARH) Method of Reporting Findings and Request for Collection of Data on High Altitude ...
AAJ
Notes
1983
Charge of Hoax Against Robert E. Peary Examined
Charge of Hoax Against Robert E. Peary Examined Terris Moore EVER SINCE the return of Dr. Frederick A. Cook and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
The Czechoslovakian Exchange
The Czechoslovakian Exchange Mark Wilford BEING A SELF-CONFESSED sandstone and adrenaline addict, I’m continually looking for my next fix. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, 1982 Mountaineering Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, 1982 Mountaineering Summary. During the 1982 climbing season, more climbers were on Mount McKinley than ever before, ...
AAJ
Notes
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Thunder Ridge, West Buttress, Mount McKinley
Thunder Ridge, West Buttress, Mount McKinley. Bill Holton, Stan Olsen and I left Kahiltna Base with plans to climb a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley. Bill Krause, Ted Waltman and Mike Danaher in alpine style made the fourth ascent of the East Buttress, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker and Crosson, Ski Descents, 1981
Foraker and Crosson, Ski Descents, 1981. On May 22, 1981 we landed on the Kahiltna Glacier. The team was Pierre Beghin, James Merel, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Foraker
Mount Foraker. Mount Foraker was climbed by its southeast ridge, first by John Tuckey and Rob Kimbrough and then by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, Northwest Spur Variant
Mount Hunter, Northwest Spur Variant. On April 12 Gary Bocarde, Nick Parker and I started on a new variant on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, P 11,300, West Face Couloir, West Fork of Ruth Glacier
P 11,300, West Face Couloir, West Fork of Ruth Glacier. Bob Crawford and I flew to the Ruth Glacier on April 17. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Broken Tooth
Broken Tooth. “Broken Tooth” is the unofficial name that Alaskan mountaineers have applied to P 9050 on the divide between the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains Ski Traverse
Tordrillo Mountains Ski Traverse. In late March and early April Mark Jonas** and I flew to Beluga Lake to begin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
"Mount Titanic"
In late May and early June 1981 we visited a group of unnamed and previously unvisited peaks in the northern portion ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Deborah, West Face, A Third New Route
Mount Deborah, West Face, A Third New Route. Though virgin summits are fast disappearing, new routes are everywhere and the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Fairweather, 1981
Mount Fairweather, 1981. Kim Grandfield, Dave Lunn and I climbed the classic south (Carpé) ridge in a light-weight expedition which began ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather, Carpé Ridge, and "Sabine"
Fairweather, Carpé Ridge, and “Sabine.” On June 5 Ton Hoeneveld, Roel Mulder and I were flown to the beach just southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Haydon Peak on Skis
Haydon Peak on Skis. Our group, consisting of Pierre Beghin, Christian Bougnaud, Jackiepolo Duliand, Alain Gaimard, Michel Poencet, Maurice Poulain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Emmerich
Mount Emmerich. On July 29 and 30, with two companions I climbed Mount Emmerich (6405 feet), which is just northwest of Haines. We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Alaska, Devils Thumb, Northwest Face Attempt, Coast Range
Devils Thumb, Northwest Face Attempt, Coast Range. Michael Bearzi and I attempted the northwest face of the Devils Thumb. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Logan, Winter Ascent
Mount Logan, Winter Ascent. Mike Hill, Troy Ness, and I did the first winter ascent of Mount Logan on December 29, 1981. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, The Blockhouse, West Face
The Blockhouse, West Face. In early August Pat McNerthney and I climbed a route on this face in the Cashmere ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mantis Peak, North Couloir
Mantis Peak, North Couloir. On May 15, I climbed the north couloir on Mantis Peak, after making a ski descent from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Nooksack Tower, Northeast Couloir and East Ridge
Nooksack Tower, Northeast Couloir and East Ridge. On May 30 Chuck Gerson and I made this climb in one long day (18 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Parapet, South Face
The Parapet, South Face. Our unofficial naming of the imposing central crag of the Mount Bago jumble above Junction Meadow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Penstemon Dome
Penstemon Dome. Jerry Coe and I apparently made the first climb of this prominent rock formation, the second dome east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, North Guard, East Face, 1981
North Guard, East Face, 1981. North Guard, near better-known Mount Brewer, has a provoking, craggy shape. There is a short but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Finger Dome, South Face, 1981
Finger Dome, South Face, 1981. When making the hike from near Wishon Dam to Crown Valley, the usual route to Tehepite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Hoffman, Crimson Corner and Hoffman's Turret
Mount Hoffman, Crimson Corner and Hoffman’s Turret. To the right of the Merle-Alley route on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Homer's Nose, Where Eagles Dare
Homer’s Nose, Where Eagles Dare. In July 1981 Patrick Paul and I completed another four-pitch route on the southwest face. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Middle Fork, Tule River Area
Middle Fork, Tule River Area. In the winter of 1980-81, Patrick Paul, Gary Kunkel, Randy Powers and I made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Jordan Peak Area
Jordan Peak Area. In late spring 1981, Eddie Joe and I discovered and climbed the first routes on a triple rock ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Bear Creek Spire, Complete East Ridge
Bear Creek Spire, Complete East Ridge. From the air, this long knife-edged arête is one of the most spectacular ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1983